Acebeam X75

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement


I first came to know Acebeam (or rather Supbeam, under their original name) as a high-quality maker of high output, thrower lights. Indeed, their K40/K60 series lights were my go-to lights for high-output back in the day (especially when modded by Vinh Nguyen for maximum throw). I’ve always found their lights to be solid offerings, very well made, with efficient current-controlled circuits and well-thought out user interfaces.

So when they suggested sending me their X75 super-high-output light, I said of course. I was glad they sent along the XHP70.3 HI version, since this should have more throw (and less chromatic variation) than the earlier XHP70.2 versions.

I don’t know about you, but I’m excited to see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

Emitter12xXHP70.3 HI
Max Output (Lumens)67,000
Min Output (Lumens)900
Max Runtime8 hrs 20 mins
Max Beam Intensity (cd)426,409 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)1,306 m
Mode Levels6
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)1240 g
Length176 mm
Head Diameter92 mm
Body Diameter60 mm

Package Details


The E70 is shipped in a nice and study cardboard display box. However, I personally miss the old metal-clasp carrying cases, with cut-out foam interiors.

Inside, you will find the following:

  • Acebeam X75 flashlight, with integrated handle/fan and silicone head cover (for protection and heat indication)
  • SB-C PD 60W AC charger
  • Spare fan with torx screws and Allen key wrench
  • Two spare o-rings
  • Warranty card
  • Safety card
  • Manual

It’s a reasonable package of accessories, and I like the spare fan in case you burn out the built-in one already included in the handle. I also really like the silicone head cover, due to the amount of heat this light puts out (I’ll come back to this point in later in the review).

My first impression upon unboxing is how much smaller than expected the light looks, given all those emitters. I recall the massive Olight X6 (with its 6x XML emitters, and ~5K lumens) in comparison. But once I lift it out of the box, the heft is about what I expected – you are going to need a lot of battery power to run this beast.



This is a substantial light, and one that would likely get heavy to carry around for extended walks.

The first thing to understand about this flashlight is that the handle is an integral part of how it works. The two control switches and the Lock-out switch are integrated into the handle, as is the cooling fan that sits under the heatsink in the head. You can remove the handle from the head if you need to change the fan or clean out the heatsink, but you can’t run the light without it attached. This is actually quite innovative, as you don’t have to worry about your significant investment going down the drain when/if the inexpensive fan breaks (and thus the benefit of providing a spare in the package, well done).

The light is a bit front-heavy, but the handle helps balance it out, and places your thumb in a good spot to access and use all the switches.

I will describe the user interface in detail below, but the control buttons are a little unusual to me. The handle has a Lock-out slide switch that you can slide back and forth (to prevent accidental activation), and two round electronic switches you can press: a smaller (though raised) Main switch right above the Lock-out slide switch, a slightly larger Auxiliary switch at the top of the handle.

When unlocked, the Main switch is used for turning the light On/Off and for primary mode level switching. The Auxiliary switch is used to activate/deactivate the built-in fan, switch between ECO and POWER mode sets, and perform some limited mode level switching, like jumping to Turbo (again, see my User Interface section). While easy enough to differentiate by feel, I would have expected the Main power switch to be larger, not just more raised. It also makes more sense to me to place it at one end of the series (i.e., not in the middle).

The Lock-out switch has a good firm sliding feel, locking into position at the two extremes of its traverse. The Main and Auxillary switches have a somewhat soft and slightly “squishy” feel – you need to press firmly to ensure you make contact. Note this makes multiple-clicking of the switches a bit different than other lights (i.e., firmness is what matters here, not speed).

The handle serves another important role – by carrying and using the flashlight by the handle, you don’t have to worry about accidentally burning yourself by picking it up too close to the head. That is a real concern to me, given how hot it got in my testing (which I will discuss further in the Runtimes section).

The is a green LED near the base of the handle on the head of the light that lights up when the light is in operation.

There is a standard tripod mount on the head on the opposite side from the handle. The light can tailstand stably thanks to the flat tailcap (which also serves as the dust/waterproof cover for the USB-C charging port). The tailcap threads are well lubed, and there is an o-ring in there for waterproofness. There are also instructions printed here, along with two charge status LEDs. Strangely, the integrated charger USB-C port is found among the screw threads. There is a recessed reset switch on the tail, in case you somehow over-discharge the battery pack and it won’t start charging (didn’t happen to me in my testing, but I appreciate the thoughtfulness). Scroll down for my charging experience.

Acebeam has emphasized to me the waterproofness of their design, and I tend to agree. Obviously, you would want to run it under water, but I agree appreciate the ability to swap out the fan if anything were to happen to it.

Another important physical safety feature is the removable silicone cover that sits around the head (where most of the heat will be produced). Like a silicone oven mitt, this will also help protect you if you try to grab the light while it is running. But it has another interesting safety feature – it changes colour to a light gray as it heats up:


The above pics were taken a couple of minutes after I finished my beam distance measures. You can also see some condensation under the lens of the light, which was already starting to fade. I don’t know if the silicone colour shift was intentional or not, but it is a great way to warn you when you are about to pick up something hot. Again, please scroll down to my Runtimes section for a discussion of the heat and this silicone cover.

Of course, the other main safety (and runtime) feature is the small cooling fan integrated into the handle, running under the heatsink. This really reminds me of the early computer CPU fans, and serves the same basic function here. Note that I strongly recommend that you do not try to disable the thermally-mediated “Windy” modes in the user interface. The fan only comes on when it is needed (which is almost instantaneously in Turbo mode), and throttles down (and eventually turns off) automatically once the light has cooled sufficiently (which can take up to a minute after shutting down the light from Turbo). Again, see my Runtimes section for a discussion.

The battery pack body separates from the head. Screw threads are good quality, anodized, and well lubricated. There is a similarly-sized o-ring at this end. Thanks to the anodized threads, you can physically lock-out the light by a twist of the body/battery pack from the head. A spring in the head makes contact with the positive battery terminal.

The light lacks traditional knurling, but has plenty of ridge detail and cut-out finds (plus the handle and silicone head cover). Grip is not a concern in my handling.

Hard anodizing looks to be good quality (as is typical for Acebeam), and is more on the satin/matte side (which I personally prefer, not a fan of high gloss lights).


My sample came with 12x Cree XHP70.3 HI emitters, each in their own well as part of a giant integrated reflector (moderately orange peel textured). The positioning of the wells is interesting, with a more elliptical shape to the outside ones. It looks like they are trying to harness the light for coordinated throw. But it is of course really going to be a massive flooder, given the wide head and generally shallow reflector setup.

The glass lens has a noticeable purple anti-reflective coating, as I noted in my E70 review. I am not a fan purple AR coatings, as they can lead to purple fringing on the periphery of the beam, but I didn’t really notice that here. I also haven’t noticed any significant tint shifting across output levels when in use, but check out my Emitter Measures below.

The silicone head cover has square crenelations on it, and the light can headstand reasonably well. However I STRONGLY recommend you do not attempt to run the light while headstanding, as I will explain below.

User Interface

As mentioned previously, the Main and Auxillary switches need be pressed firmly to use. This is particularly important for any of the multi-click operations described below (i.e., slow and firm presses are needed, too-rapid ones don’t work).

Before I get into describing the UI in detail, here is the flow-chart from the included user manual.



From OFF:

  • Main switch Press-and-Hold: Turns On in Ultra-low level
  • Main switch Single-click: Turns On in the last used memorized mode (but not Ultra-Low or Turbo)
  • Main switch Double-click: Turns On in Turbo mode (but timing is tricky, need to press firmly twice, and not too quickly)
  • Main switch Triple-click: Turns on in Strobe (again, slow and steady clicks)
  • Auxiliary switch Press-and-Hold (3 seconds): Activate/deactivate cooling fan (aka Wind mode)
  • Auxiliary switch Single-click: Nothing
  • Auxiliary switch 10 clicks: Switch between POWER mode group and ECO mode group (with their differing step-down timings on Turbo/Hi).

From ON:

  • Main switch Press-and-Hold: Change levels from Low to High (Ultra low and Turbo are not included in the main mode levels)
  • Main switch Single-click: Turns Off
  • Main switch Double-click: Jumps to Turbo
  • Main switch Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe
  • Auxiliary switch Press-and-Hold: Momentary Turbo
  • Auxiliary switch Single-click: Nothing


  • To Turbo: Double-click Main switch from On or Off
  • To Ultra Low: Press-and-Hold Main switch from Off
  • To Strobe: Triple-click Main switch from On or Off

Mode memory:

Yes. The light remembers the last main output levels used, and returns to it next time you turn on it On (with the exception of Ultra-Low and Turbo).

Low battery warning:

Yes, the LED indicator near the base of the handle blinks as the battery is running low.

Reviewer Comments:

Although the interface itself is not that complicated, getting use to it and the actual switch timings (and location) took some time. I kept trying to activate the light by the Auxillary switch instead of the Main switch. Once I remembered the right switch for Main, I then kept trying to use the Auxillary switch to change modes (Doh!). Since I don’t really want to turn off the fan or switch between the POWER and ECO mode groups (as I explain below), the Auxillary switch was really more of a complicating feature than a help, especially given its location.

I also don’t really understand who would want the lower step-down levels from Turbo/Hi that the ECO mode group offers over POWER mode. I could see people possibly preferring a separate set of level groupings, but I don’t know too many people who prefer to see a light step-down to an alternate set of even lower levels. And after all, you always have the option to run the light at a lower level if you are looking for more runtime.

I also don’t think it’s a good idea to give people the option to turn off the fan, from a safety or a long-term stability perspective. If you don’t like the fan noise, don’t run the light on Turbo.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):




There is no sign of PWM or circuit noise at any level (some representative traces shown above). The light appears to be fully constant-current controlled. 🙂



Strobe frequency is a reasonably fast 8.4 Hz, at the Turbo level (same as my Acebeam E70). Certainly annoying, but not as bad as some.


Fully discharged:

After ~10 mins of charging:

The Acebeam X75 battery pack (which is composed on 4×21700 cells in series), charges at ~20V and starts with a low charging current of ~0.2A when you first plug it in after a full discharge. This is a nice and gentle initial charging rate. After ~10 mins of charging time, you can see it was up to 3.1A, which is the very fast charging rate it uses over most of its charge cycle. Near the end of charging, it reverts back to the lower starting amperage, to avoid overcharging the cells. I didn’t specifically measure the charging time, but it seemed to take somewhere between 1.25 hours and 1.5 hours in my testing (as Acebeam indicates).

As an interesting note, when you plug the cable in, the charging circuit takes a couple of seconds to decide its charging rate. If the battery is only partially discharged, and it decides to go for the full 3.1A above, it doesn’t jump up to it – but slowly ramps up the current over about 5 secs or so. This is a very sensible and safe approach, and I’m glad to see Acebeam has taken such care with its charging circuit on this model. The charging port on the screw threads does seem a little odd, but I didn’t encounter any problems.

The battery pack can also serve as a power bank, to charge other USB devices. All you have to do is plug your cell phone or other device directly into the battery pack’s USB-C port. As you can see in the pic below, my Samsung Galaxy S21+ was able to charge at a pretty decent rate: ~2.05A at 9.35V (or just over 19W).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 0.22 mA.

Given the integrated 4x 21700 cells are arranged in series, and going by the quoted online 4250 mAh capacity, that would mean the cells would be fully drained in ~2.2 years.  This is not at all unreasonable, but I can see now why they have included the reset switch on the battery pack. If you stored this light fully connected but unused for several years, you may need to reset the low-voltage protection circuit in order to initiate a recharge cycle.

Note that storing the light locked or unlocked on the Lock-out handle switch made no difference to the standby current in my testing. It seems to draw the same power regardless.

You can physically lock out the battery pack from the head/handle of the light, thanks to the anodized screw threads in the head. I suggest you do indeed physically lock the light out this way to cut the standby drain. A single twist of the head will physically lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5840K, and the moderately positive tint shift (+0.0115 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 68.

These values are very consistent with cool white XHP70.3 emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.


All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Note that the camera settings were selected to best show-off the typical max output ranges of 1×21700 lights. So the X75 is going to seem a bit washed out in comparison!

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.

For comparison purposes, the Imalent MS03 produces ~13,000 lumens on Turbo at activation, dropping downs to ~11,000 lumens at 30 secs. Beam intensity is about 22,000cd (or ~18,000cd / 265m at 30 secs) on Turbo. High is ~8,000 lumens.

The V54-modified MM15 above is dome-on, and at 30 secs is ~7,400 lumens and 27,500cd beam intensity (331m beam distance).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

X75 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Ultralow900750750----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Low2,0001,9501,900----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Mid15,000-9004,7504,700----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Mid210,000-9009,1009,500----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Hi21,000-12,000-90022,00021,000----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Turbo67,000-17,00070,50064,500338,000 cd295,000 cd1086 m-No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Strobe55,000-20,000-----8.4 HzNo0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g

Using my ceiling bounce measures for output (as my lightbox couldn’t handle the size and heat), I actually come in pretty close to the rated specs. Mind you, I know my output measures appear to be a bit inflated compared to others, but they are at least internally consistent across my reviews.

In terms of beam distance though, my calibrated lightmeter used at ANSI FL-1 distance (10m, and calculated back) clearly doesn’t match the stated intensity (although it isn’t bad to be reaching >1 km beam distance at 30 secs).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.


As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Note that I had to modify my testing setup for this light, as it too big to fit in my lightbox.

For the Lo and Mid runs, I simply placed the light up against the opening to my lightbox, and applied a correction factor for the reduced output readings (based on a calibration I developed relative to my ceiling bounce measures). For Turbo and Hi, I had to come up with another solution as the Turbo mode caused the adhesive tape that holds the cut-out flap on my milk carton lighbox to start to melt and burn within seconds of the run (!!!).

Yes, that’s right – despite an air-gap between the lens and the lightbox (due to the silicone cover), the intensity of the heat coming out the front was able to quickly ignite the generic-brand adhesive tape I used on the lightbox. I will come back to the heat issue in a bit.

So instead, I downloaded once of those free light meter apps for your cell phone. I used Light Meter – Lux Meter by Coolexp, v.1.5, from the Google Play store for Android, to use on my Samsung Galaxy S21+. I then calibrated the phone and app against my NIST-certified lux light meter, and used it to log runtimes. For safety, I ran the light tailstanding aimed at the ceiling of my cool and empty garage in the evening, with the cell phone lying beside the light facing the ceiling (for ceiling bounce measures). I then correlated the garage bounce to my usual ceiling bounce location, to get the official lumen estimates.

Quite a process, but it worked surprisingly well in the end. Now, let’s see how the runtimes went. Note that for all runtimes below, I left the light in “POWER mode with Wind”.


As you can see above, the X75 is well regulated at all levels tested. It also seems extremely efficient, as the output/runtime performance looks to be at least ~4.5 times that of the best 1×21700 lights (despite the lower 4250 mAh rated capacity of the cells here). It is of course hard to compare exactly, as I did needed to do some calibrations/correlations for the output measures. And of course, the 4×21700 cells here are running the 12x emitters at lower drive levels to produce the same overall output, which is always more efficient. But any way you look it, this is clearly a very efficient and well regulated circuit!

To better show the thermal step-down feature on Turbo and Hi, here are those output runtimes expanded to show the first eight minutes, and then the first 30 secs. Again, on POWER mode with Wind:


As you can see, the light rapidly ramps up to Turbo/Hi output over ~5 secs or so (which is interesting – it doesn’t just jump to the max brightness). This is another sign that the circuit is “gentle” on the battery pack on Turbo/Hi at startup, just as it was on charging. The integrated cooling fan turns on almost immediately on Turbo.

The output ramps down slowly on Turbo, until just after one minute, at which point it ramps down more quickly over a period of 30 secs or so, to the regulated High level. This is quite reasonable, given how hard the light is driven for the first minute. It also gets quite warm by the point it starts to ramp down.

In terms of heat, that is actually rather hard to measure. I did a second run using an infrared thermometer gun that has an app-based data-logging feature. For this run, I aimed it at an area just above the tripod mount at the base of the head. Here is how it looks overlayed on the corresponding Turbo runtime (although they were in fact two separate runs, as I needed to use my one cell phone to datalog from the two respective apps):


It’s interesting that the temperature continues to rise even as the light is in the process of ramping down to the High level. But I suspect this is due to a time lag for when the aluminum body reaches its maximum temperature – see below for a further discussion.

Note the integrated fan is going this whole time, and at full-blast speeds for the first couple of minutes. Once the temperature started to come down, I noticed the pitch (and thus speed) of the fan dropped down several times during the remaining run. I didn’t record or quantify this, but the most pronounced change in pitch occurred at the point near the end of the run above, where the temperature reading increased slightly as a result.

I didn’t time exactly how long the fan lasts after you turn off the light. At the end of the run above, it wasn’t very long. But the fan can continue to run for up to ~2 mins after the you turn the light off if you do so at the point of max heat (i.e., right when it steps down to Hi).


Please note that the actual max temperature of the light is much hotter than it appears in the runtime above.

Again, I had my infrared thermometer gun pointed at the aluminum body of the light for the heat trace above, for convenience and safety (i.e., staring at the output of the light is not good for your eyes!). How hot does it actually get coming out the front of the light? I experimented with pointing the thermal gun at different angles to the lens at the front of the light, and found the maximum heat reading occurred when I placed the gun directly in front of the light. At ~1 min 10 secs into another run (i.e., the inflection point where the light begins its steeper ramping down to Hi), I clocked 198°C (388°F). This is as hot as the gun ever measured, as temperature began to drop down from this point. This makes sense, as I would expect the maximum heat to occur just before the light starts its explicit ramp-down stage.

I understand now why the generic Scotch tape on my lightbox started to burn – the brand-name stuff has a melting temperature of 175°C (347°F). Indeed, during this test, if I brought my infrared thermometer gun in too close to the lens (i.e., one inch away), smoke started to burn off the plastic end piece of the gun (!). You therefore have to be EXTREMELY careful not to let anything come into even near-contact with the lens of the light when operating in Turbo mode – or you risk igniting flammable materials, and/or seriously burning yourself.

Please do not even consider removing the silicone cover around the head – it is an absolute minimum safety requirement in my view. In fact, I recommend you slide it up more towards the opening of the light, to provide event better protection. It will hold snugly in couple of positions, for example:

Finally, I find the drain rate on Turbo a bit heavy for 4x 21700 cells. If you plan to run this light routinely at this level, I suggest you pick up the extended 8x 21700 battery pack that Acebeam sells (the much higher capacity/number of cells means the power required on Turbo is less stressful on each individual cell). This will of course make the light longer and heavier though.

Pros and Cons

Incredibly high output with excellent throw (although not quite as high as rated).The light gets VERY hot on Turbo mode very quickly, risking potential burns or igniting flammable materials. Avoid any near-contact with the lens in Turbo operation (see analysis above).
Excellent regulation and output/runtime efficiency, in all modes.The light on Turbo draws power at a very high rate initially - I recommend you purchase the optional extended 8-cell pack if you plan to run Turbo frequently.
Good thermal regulation and step-down performance, with a well-implemented integrated cooling fan.The electronic switch placement, feel and interface is a little unusual, and takes some getting used to.
Very good physical build quality, comfortable to handle and use, even in Turbo mode.
Thoughtful heat safety management, with silicone head cover and handle for carry.
Fast USB-C charging of the battery pack, which can also serve as a power bank for other devices.

A neutral comment is the fan is moderately noisy when Turbo is first activated, and quiets down somewhat as as the light steps-down. You can disable the fan, but I do not recommend this. It is better to just get used to the noise – or simply not use Turbo.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

I debated knocking off half a star for some of the things that gave me pause on this light. But given how great the overall feature set is, as well as the physical build and regulated circuit and battery performance, I think 5 stars is warranted. That said, there are a couple of things that concern me, so let’s get those out of the way first.

I will start with the minor one – the user interface (specifically, the Auxillary switch). I really don’t find this switch too useful for the things it is primarily programmed to do (i.e., switching to ECO mode, or turning off the fan – neither of which I wish to do). And I found its presence distracting in use, so close the Main switch. Coupled with having to get the hang of an unusual timing issue for multiple clicks of either switch (i.e., both are a bit squishy), I think this could use a little tweaking.

My main concern is not with the light per se, but just how much heat comes out the front end of this thing on Turbo. The silicone head cover is a brilliant idea, but one that I think should have been extended even further forward. Please take care not to ignite anything on fire with this light – I think those in the UK or Australia would be fully justified in call this light a “torch”!

I know the marquee draw for this light is its raw max output – and correspondingly clever cooling design with the integrated yet replaceable fan. But here’s the thing; even if you completely discount the Turbo mode, I think this light is a five star light for all that it has a lot to offer in its other modes. Let’s not forget just how incredibly bright the High mode’s ~21,000 lumens are, and how versatile it is to go all the way down to ~750 regulated lumens on its lowest setting. The excellent regulation and current-controlled efficiency are just superb.

The physical build and ergonomics of the light are top notch too. It just feels like a really solid piece of kit, with careful attention to detail. It’s a pleasure to use with its integrated handle – and is probably the first light I’ve preferred carrying that way. The silicone head cover is just ingenious, including its colour shift to indicate the light is hot. I haven’t handled other modern super-high output lights, but I can’t recommend much to improve on the physical build here. I am super impressed to see the spare (and user-swappable) cooling fan included here. That is a thoughtful design that I hope other makers consider it too in their designs.

The charging feature also worked great in my testing, and the 3A charging really speeds things up (bonus to be able to use the battery pack as power bank too). Weird to see the USB-C port in the middle of the screw threads, but it didn’t cause any issues for me.

If you are in the market for this sort of monster high-output light (and understand the risks of max output), I am happy to recommend this model.


The X75 was provided for review by Acebeam. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$420 USD (~$570 CDN).

Acebeam is making available a discount code for readers of my reviews. If you purchase the light from the website, you can use the code ” selfbuilt ” (without the quotation marks) for 10% off.

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