Tag Archives: 21700

Sofirn SC29

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The SC29 is a general-purpose flashlight running on a single included rechargeable 21700 battery. It features USB-C charging and a distinctive TIR optic.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Still working through my backlog – this SC29 sample was received back in March of this year.

The SC29 is another in a long line of compact 1×21700 flashlights from Sofirn, this time featuring the mid-range Cree XHP50.2 emitter. What’s distinctive here is the TIR (total internal reflection) optic, which I expect will help with the typical chromatic aberrations you can see on XHP50.2 HD emitters (especially the older ones). It also features in-light charging and a magnetic tailcap. It comes with a ~6000K cool white emitter, and Sofirn-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery.

I’ve been pleased with the quality and performance of many Sofirn lights for their price. They generally have reasonably good circuit efficiency, although with fairly basic linear regulators (to help keep the cost down). How does the SC29 stack up?  Let’s find out …

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSofirn
ModelSC29
EmitterXHP50.2
TintCool
Max Output (Lumens)3,000
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime500 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)11,275 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)142 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)76.5 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length120.8 mm
Head Diameter29 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68

Package Details






The SC29 came in the modern “cellphone box” style packaging common for higher-end Sofirn and Wurkkos models, with a good number of descriptive labels on the outside. Included:

  • Sofirn SC29 flashlight
  • Sofirn-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Pocket clip (removable)
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

Al always, this is a decent package for a “budget” build. But I would like to see a holster included.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.









The SC29 is definitely smaller than the SC33 (or SP35T) that I reviewed earlier this year – it is more in keeping with compact Wurkkos TS22.  I find it a very comfortable size to hold and use, a good mid-range size (although larger than the similarly powered Wurkkos WK15).

The switch is located in the head, and has a good look and feel. It is larger than some competing lights, and slightly concave, making it easier to find by touch than many. In the center is a green/red LED to show you charge and battery status.

The charging port is located on the other side of the head from the switch, under rubber dust cover. This should provide decent splash-resistance, but I wouldn’t recommend dunking the light in water.

The pocket clip is the simple press-on variety, but seems to hold in please fairly sturdily.The clip is not reversible or bi-directional though, bezel-down carry is the only option.

The tailcap is flat with a small cut-out for the wrist lanyard. The light tailstands stably (but the lanyard may introduce a wobble, given its location). There is a strong magnet in the tailcap, which will affix the light to a metal surface should you desire hands-free operation.

Body threads at both the head and tail are square-cut and anodized, allowing you to physically lock-out the light with a simple twist.

The SC29 uses a concentric ring design on the body, with some additional cut-outs on the head, to help with grip. With the included clip installed, I would say grip is excellent. Also thanks to included clip, the light will not roll when laid on its side. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte.

Inside, the light comes with a Sofirn-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is no spring in the head, just a slightly raised post (helping keep the length down).

This is a solid but comfortable light, with good grip and handfeel. I would consider it still “pocketable”, but at the upper-end of that range.



The SC29 comes with a pretty distinctive TIR optic, with a nice smooth beam. But don’t let the pic above mislead you – the beam is actually very white in practice. There is a greenish-yellow tint shift near the immediate edge of the spillbeam – but his is only noticeable in the very near distance at the angle my desk is capturing it.  Rest assured you can’t see this at a distance. In fact, I find the spot and main spill to both be very even and very white. Scroll down to see actual outdoor beamshots.

There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens. The bezel is flat aluminum, with no crenelations. Light can headstand stably.

User Interface

The SC29 uses a paired-down, basic interface compared to the SC33 (which had the option of both stepped and smooth ramping). The SC29 has stepped levels only. It also lacks the Moonlight and additional blinky modes of the SC33.

Levels: Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, Strobe.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Triple-click: Activates Lockout mode. Triple-click to unlock and return to memorized mode.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Advances through the output modes.
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Single click returns to last memorized mode. Double-click jumps you to Strobe.

From Lockout:

  • Press-and-hold: Momentary Eco mode, until you release
  • Single-click: Nothing (does a double flash to show lockout status)
  • Double-click: TNothinge.
  • Triple-click: Disable Auto-Lockout.

Mode memory:

Yes.

Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press and hold the switch.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.
  • Strobe mode: Double-click the switch from Turbo.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery capacity remaining (lasts for ~5 secs upon activation):

  • Solid green: ~75-100%
  • Solid red: ~25-50%

Low voltage warning:

Yes, the button will flash red as the battery is nearly completely drained.

Lockout mode:

Physically at the tailcap, or electronically by a triple-click lockout. No auto-lockout that I have found.

Reviewer Comments:

This interface is very straight-forward, and largely performs as you would expect. It does have a few quirks though. Unlike most modern light lights, lock-out mode is on triple-click instead of four-click. And there is no way to activate Strobe from off (i.e., the usual triple-click option) – you need to go through Turbo first. This takes a little getting used to, but is not a deal-breaker for me.

I would have liked to have seen a true Moonlight mode, a Beacon mode, and the choice of smooth ramping or stepped levels. At least there was no auto-lock-out mode here (which enthusiasts tend to find annoying).

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Moon:
Moon

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no circuit noise on any level. This is a very good result, similar to the SC33.

Note that circuit noise is not a concern, as it common to many lights. But do find that its absence (as in this case) bodes very well in terms of regulation and output/runtime efficiency. Scroll down to see actual results.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 8 Hz and 25 Hz every ~1.5 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting.

There is no Beacon or SOS mode on the SC29.

Charging:

There is a small LED under the switch which shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

Unlike a number of modern lights (e.g. SC33), the SC29 does not show two-stage charging (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). Here, the initial charging rate starts at ~1.33A and slowly rises as the cell charges. This is a reasonable charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell relatively quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Due to electronic switch, there is bound to be a parasitic standby drain when the light is not in use. I measured this as 26 uA, which is completely negligible (i.e., it would take nearly 22 years to fully discharge the cell). Still I recommend you store the light locked-out, either electronically or at the tailcap, when not in use.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

SC29 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5600K, and a small positive tint shift (+0.0102 Duv) to a slight greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 63.

These values are consistent with the performance of a cool white XHP50.2 emitter, although I find the main beam to be very white in actual use. I must say, there is much less tint variation than on other lights with XHP50.2 HD emitters that I’ve examined.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here.

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the SC29 has a narrower spill than the reflectored lights, with more relative light in the mid-ground and distance. Personally, I think the SC33 achieves a better balance between throw and flood – although it is a slightly larger light (with more powerful XHP70.3 HI emitter).

But also note that the green-yellow tint shift at the edge of the periphery is actually not very noticeable in actual use. In fact, I find far less visible tint shifting here than in most XHP50.2 lights

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

SC29 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco111---8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g---
Low305050---8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g---
Med350450440---8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g---
High1,0001,3501,300---8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g5,6000.010263
Turbo3,0003,3003,15011,000 cd10,300 cd203 m8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g---
Strobe3,000-----8-25 HzNo1.33 A1.33 A26 uA158 g186 g---

The SC29 seems to match fairly closely to the specs on all levels (given that my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high). I also like the overall spacing. Note that “Eco” is lower than most lights – mainly would consider this more of a “Moonlight” mode (although I would prefer a sub-lumen level for that).

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports fairly comparable beam intensity on Turbo compared to the specs (although it drops down by 30 secs post-activation to just slightly below spec). I find these output and throw measures very reasonable for this kind of emitter.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note again that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

Overall performance is *very* comparable to the Wurkkos WK15 – which similarly uses the XHP50.2 emitter. Both lights have a relatively efficient, if basic, linear regulation drivers (i.e., you can see the generally direct-drive pattern above). Note however that the SC29 does have some explicit step-downs near the end of the run, which is a good way to extend performance when the battery is nearly exhausted.

This is very reasonable for a budget light, and I do find the level spacing good. Note however that the initial step-down level on Turbo is lower than most lights.

Since I know many are interested in how the initial Turbo modes compare (i.e., how quickly and how far the lights step-down), here is a blow-up of the first few mins of runtime on max output:

Again, very similar performance to the Wurkkos WK15.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has a solid build with a large easy-to-access button switch.Circuit is a simple linear regulator, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes.
Light has an effective and straightforward user interface.The circuit is less efficient than higher-end, current-controlled lights with flat regulation.
Light uses a TIR optic for more focused throw.Although the TIR does better than most reflectors, the XHP50.2 HD emitter does produce tint shifts across the beam. Noticeable here only in the spillbeam periphery.
Price is reasonably lowLight is a bit larger and heavier than some budget lights in the compact 21700 class.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The SC29 is a more budget-oriented light than SC33, with a scaled down emitter and circuit, as you might expect. In a sense, the SC29 is basically a TIR optic version of the budget Wurkkos WK15, in a slightly beefier build with some revised output levels and a tweaked user interface. It mainly comes down to which beam pattern you prefer between the two.

The circuit performance is certainly reasonable for the budget class, as it features a linear regulator with good efficiency. Of course, this doesn’t compare to the fully-regulated competition, such as the efficient Wurkkos TS22 or the Skilhunt M300 V2 – but those light are also more expensive.

I do like that the published output specs seem pretty accurate for this model, and the range of output levels is good.

The XHP50.2 HD emitter is known for a lot of tint/chromatic variation across its beam, but the TIR seems to be helping here. It is only at the periphery of the beam that you will notice the tint shift.

The build and handfeel is a small step up from the WK15, but I still think this light fills the same niche with the same overall performance (just a different beam profile). As such, I think 3.5 stars is a reasonable score here as well. A very decent budget TIR pocket light, it would be a good choice for the general-use crowd.

Acknowledgement

The SC29 was supplied by Sofirn for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light with battery retails for ~$30 USD (~$40 CDN) on sale on the Sofirn website here.

Speras E21

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The E21 is a general-purpose flashlight running on an integrated rechargeable 21700 battery. It features a distinctive build, with the popular Luminus SST40 for relatively intense throw.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m still catching up on my backlog – this E21 sample was received early last Fall.

Speras is a new flashlight maker for me. They have released a variety of models over the years, largely focused on the relatively inexpensive consumer market (many with “zoomable” features) or the somewhat higher-end tactical market. I readily agreed to review the E21 when they announced its release last year, given its rather unusual interface.

In terms of performance, the E21 runs on an integrated 21700 battery (i.e., not user-accessible or replaceable) and uses the Luminus SST40 emitter. This emitter is a popular choice for budget throwers, as its relatively small die profile allows for great focusing. The light has a somewhat rakish build, which along with the user interface is likely designed to appeal to the tactical crowd.

Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSperas
ModelE21
EmitterSST40
Tint-
Max Output (Lumens)2,000
Min Output (Lumens)10
Max Runtime220 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)26,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)322 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700 (integrated)
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)135 g
Length128 mm
Head Diameter25.4 mm
Body Diameter25.4 mm
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details




The E21 comes in fairly typical mid-range packaging, with published specs and details on the outside of the box. Inside you will find:

  • Speras E21 flashlight with built-in 5000 mAh 21700 cell
  • Bidirectional pocket clip
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • USB C to A dongle (for the powerbank feature)
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, but I would still like to see a holster included.

Note that that a gun mount and remote pressure switch option are available to purchase from Speras.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.






The E21 comes with a bright yellow sticker warning you that the light is locked out, and needs to be unlocked before your first use. A good thing to include, since the integrated battery means you can only electronically lock out the light (which you will definitely want for shipping, or long-term storage).

The E21 is reasonably compact for the class, and is quite comfortable to hold and use. The protruding tailcap switch has a grippy black rubber cover (and so tailstanding is not possible). The switch is distinctive, and actually contains a novel user interface – you can directly press (click) to turn on or off, as well as tap from the side to change modes (or lock/unlock). It takes a bit of practice to get the feel just right for how much side pressure to apply (and where) for this “side switch” feature, but it actually works well once you get used to it. Scroll down to the User Interface section for more info.

The USB-C charging port is located under a translucent rubber cover in the head – which also has a green/yellow/red charge status LED beside it. This cover should provide decent splash-resistance, but I wouldn’t recommend dunking the light in water. There are more labels than typical on this light, including information on the 21700 battery characteristics. According to the Speras website, the E21 uses a LG 21700 INR cell.

I quite like the removable bi-directional pocket clip attached near the base. This allows for both deep-pocket carry, as well as mounting it on something like a ball cap for forward throw. It holds on securely in my testing.

The E21 has a lot of concentric rings on the body, with a relatively smooth head. But with the pocket clip attached, I would say grip is very good. Also thanks to included clip, the light will not roll when placed on its side. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample (black, but I believe other colours are available). I would describe the finish as matte.



The E21 comes with more aggressive bezel scalloping than typical, likely to appeal to the tactical crowd. Personally, I find these to be something of a gimmick, and more likely to catch on clothing or injure yourself with, but I suppose the E21 would do some damage if you hit someone with it head-on (note the bezel appears to be made of aluminum). Light can still headstand fairly stably.

As expected given the emitter choice, the reflector is relatively deep and smooth. I would expect excellent throw for this model. As you can see above, the centre of the beam is somewhat yellowish/warm tinted, and the edge is bluer/cooler. Scroll down for outdoor pics. There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

User Interface

The E21 has two sets of possible modes; a general use mode set (called “Outdoor” in the manual), and a tactical model set (appropriately called “Tactical”).

To switch between groups, you actually have to do something a little unusual: you have to connect E21 to an external power source via the charging cable. Another surprise – the light will actually work when plugged into USB (I accidentally flashed myself in the face at full power the first time I tried this). To change between mode sets, you have to side-tap the switch 3 times rapidly. The E21 will blink to confirm the mode set change.

It’s interesting that you can’t change the mode set on the fly, but I suspect that isn’t very common anyway. At least this way you won’t do it accidentally.

Outdoor Mode Set available levels: Eco, Low, Medium, High, Turbo, Strobe.

Outdoor Mode, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Momentary On in last memorized constant output mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized constant output mode.
  • Side-press-and-hold: Momentary Eco mode.

Outdoor Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side-press-and-release: Steps up to the next constant output mode (in sequence, Eco > Lo > Med > High > Turbo).
  • Side-press-and-hold: Strobe.

Outdoor Mode memory:

Yes, for constant output modes.

Outdoor Mode Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press-and-hold the side switch from Off.
  • Strobe mode: Press-and-hold the side switch from On.
  • Note there does not seem to be any way to rapidly access Turbo.

Tactical Mode Set available levels: Turbo and Strobe.

Tactical Mode, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Momentary On in Turbo.
  • Single-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Side-press-and-hold: Momentary Strobe mode.

Tactical Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side-press-and-hold: Strobe.

Tactical Mode memory:

No, it is always Turbo only.

Tactical Mode Shortcuts:

  • Strobe mode: Press-and-hold the side switch from On.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery voltage for a few seconds, as follows:

  • Solid green: ~70-100%
  • Solid yellow: ~30-70%
  • Solid red: ~10-30%
  • Flashing red: 0-10%

Low voltage warning:

Not that I noticed.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but electronic only – side-tap the switch 6 times to lock out the light. Side-tab the switch 3 times to unlock.

Reviewer Comments:

Although the side-press feature takes a little getting used to (both in terms of the exact location and amount of pressure to apply), I find this interface to be pretty decent. On the general “Outdoor” mode, you can easily access everything you need to (although it does lack a shortcut to Turbo).  In Tactical mode, it is a very simple Turbo light with immediate access to Strobe.

You just need to remember how the lockout feature works, as I recommend you lock out the light when not in use to limit the (unknown) standby drain.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM at any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is also no circuit noise on any level, which is a sign of a decent circuit.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 7 Hz and 17 Hz every ~2 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting (i.e. “tactical”).

Charging:

There is a small LED by the charging port which shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Heavily depleted:

After a couple of seconds:

The E21 doesn’t seem to have a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). The initial charging rate here is ~1.55A, and it rapidly increases from there to ~1.65A over the first 30 secs or so of charging. This is a decent charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

The main switch feels like a physical clicky switch (but may not be), however the side-press feature is clearly electronic (thus requiring a standby drain). Also the, USB port is by definition always active. Due to the sealed physical build, I wasn’t able to measure the standby current. I recommend you store the light locked-out when in not in use, to prevent accidental activation (and hopefully lower the standby current).

Powerbank Feature:

With the included USB C-to-A adapter, you can turn the E21 into a powerbank to charge other devices. I measured a charging current of ~1.2A for my Samsung phone, using the included USB charging cable.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

E21 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5450K, and a positive tint shift (+0.0158 Duv) to a greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 58.

These values are consistent with the performance of the Luminus SST40 in my experience. Note that there is a tint shift to more cool by the spillbeam edge on my sample.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


The Convoy S21E (with SST40) is the closest comparable for the beam profile. As you can see above, the E21 has greater overall output on Turbo, and has greater centre beam throw. Spillbeam width is a little narrower. Both of these are consistent with the deeper reflector on the E21.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

E21 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco102323---NoNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g---
Low100175175---NoNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g---
Medium350555550---NoNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g---
High9001,7001,600---NoNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g5,4500.015859
Turbo2,0003,0002,75033,500 cd30,500 cd349 mNoNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g---
Strobe------7-17 HzNo1.55 A1.60 AYes (not measured)-135 g---

The E21’s initial output levels are coming out much higher in my lightbox than the specs indicate, which is unusual. I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high, but max output visually does seem more consistent with ~3000 lumen lights than ~2000 lumen lights. And my NIST-calibrated luxmeter (which is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard), similarly reports greater throw on Turbo than the specs report.

Taken together, it is clear to me that my E21 is outperforming specs for initial output. But check out my actual Runtimes for a clearer picture.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

One key observation is that the E21 steps down significantly on both Turbo and Hi – to lower Med level than most lights use.

The second observation is that the light doesn’t use a flat voltage-regulated circuit, but seems to largely rely on the internal resistance of the internal cell (i.e., direct-drive). This is not necessarily a problem, as it can still be efficient (and appears to the eye as perfectly stable).

Here is a blow-up of the first few mins of runtime on Turbo/Hi output:

As you can see, the E21 steps down to the Med level after 1 min on Turbo, or 2 mins on Hi.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has higher initial output than the specs indicate.Circuit is not voltage-regulated, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes.
The circuit performance shows very good output/runtime efficiency.Turbo/Hi steps down further than most lights in this class (i.e., all the way down to Med)
The light throws a more throwy beam than most in this size/class.There is some tint shifting across the beam, with a yellowish hotspot and cool white spill.
Innovative switch and user interface, but it may not be to everyone's likingThe integrated cell can't be changed, and the light can only be locked out electronically (i.e., impossible to break to current draw).
Light can serve as a powerbank.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The E21 is an interesting light, with a number of good characteristics – but some limitations as well. Let’s start with the build – physically, it is a solid light, with good handfeel and clip, and distinctive switch. But it also has an integrated battery than cannot be changed – or physically locked out (i.e., there will always be a standby current).

The user interface features two mode sets, which provides some options for you. But I miss having a shortcut to Turbo in the general Outdoor mode set. I personally like playing with the side-press feature of the switch, but it may not be for everyone.

Circuit-wise, the light lacks flat-stabilized regulation. It does run for an extended runtime compared to other light I’ve tested with this emitter, but that’s only because it steps down to a lower level than most lights (i.e., both Turbo and Hi step-down to the relatively low outpit Med level after 1-2 mins).

It is a relatively throwy light, with great throw for the compact 21700 class. But the tint shift in the centre beam is definitely on the greener side (could just be my sample, but it may also have to do with the emitter/reflector combo).

As always, it comes down to what you are looking for and whether a given light meets your needs. I considered giving this light 4 stars overall given its innovative switch design and generally good performance. But the integrated battery in particular brings it down in my view. I’ve enjoyed handing it – but it may not be for everyone.

Acknowledgement

The E21 was supplied by Speras for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$63 USD (~$85 CDN) on the Speras website here.

Cyansky P50R

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The P50R is a very high-output flashlight featuring four XHP50.3 HI emitters running on a single high-discharge 21700 battery.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m still working on clearing my backlog – the P50R was received in the Fall of 2023.

This is the second Cyansky light that I’ve reviewed since my recent return to reviewing, following on the tactical P25. It features a whopping four XHP50.3 HI emitters in a pretty compact head, and is thus rated for relatively high output for the 1×21700 class.

In the old days, I used to dread handling multi-emitter reflectored lights, given all the typical beam artifacts. But things have really come a long way in both optics and emitter design, and I find modern multi-emitter lights (with latest generation of LEDs) to have far fewer artifacts then they used to. It can be an efficient way to get super high output in a compact build.

Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerCyansky
ModelP25 V2.0
EmitterXHP70.3
TintCool
Max Output (Lumens)3,600
Min Output (Lumens)5
Max Runtime80 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)10,800 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)208 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)98 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length145.4 mm
Head Diameter30 mm
Body Diameter24.4 mm
WaterproofIPX8 2m

Package Details





The P50R comes in a more substantial box than the P25 (which was fairly basic). Inside the hard carboard box you find all the extras in a little thin box next to the cut-out foam for the light. Inside the box I found:

  • Cyansky P50R flashlight
  • Cyansky-branded 4000mAh high-drain 21700 battery
  • Pocket clip
  • Holster with velcro closing flap
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual
  • Warranty card

It’s a very decent package, and I am particularly glad to see the holster included – very rare these days.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.






4


Note: that this review is based on the initial release of the P50R. In the interim, a revised model with a new user interface has replaced it. But as the build is substantially the same, I have continued with this review and highlighted the differences as we go.

The P50R is a substantial light, of reasonable length for a high-output 4x emitter model in the 21700 class. I find the light comfortable to hold and use.

Just like the P25, there is a raised side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the head, with red and green LEDs underneath to show battery charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch seems identical to the P25, and is very similar to a lot of modern lights.

There is in-light USB charging through a port on the head, on the other side from the switch. The rubber dust cover fits pretty well – I expected waterproofness to be decent for this design of light (i.e., splashable, but not dunkable).

The tailcap has a little bit of ridge detail, but still allows for tailstanding stably. It has the wrist lanyard attachment point on the side. Inside, the body tube base spring has a large flat disc that makes contact with the battery (presumably to help with good current flow, given the high-drain nature of the light). I like seeing this design, as other makers of high-drain lights sometime opt for dense springs that can scratch or damage the cell.

Body tube threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can easily lock-out this light by a simple twist of the head.

There is no real knurling on the light, but there are a number of cut-outs to help with grip. The slightly raised side switch on a square cut-out helps limit the ability of the light to roll somewhat – but the pocket clip is particularly recommended in that regard.

My sample came with black anodizing, but other colours are available (e.g., like the green on my P25). Anodizing looks to be good quality (for presumed type II, given the colour range). I would describe the finish as matte.

Inside, the light comes with a Cyansky-branded high drain 4000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised button-top. There is a flat contact in the head of the light, along with a reverse polarity detection feature. I strongly recommend you stick with the high-drain cell, especially if you plan to run the light on the higher modes.

This is a solid and well-made light, with decent hand feel (although it could be grippier). It is a bit longer than most in this class, which is something to keep in mind.




The P50R comes with a slightly crenelated stainless steel bezel, in bead-blasted finish (to help match with the rest of the light – a nice touch). The crenelations are mild enough that you can still tailstand stably, and are not likely to catch or rip on fabric. Light can headstand stably.

The lens is apparently hardened mineral glass and has a mild purplish anti-reflective coating. This should provide excellent light transmission.

At the heart of this beast are four Cree XHP50.3 HI emitter. These appear to be the latest generation of the Cree 5050 build quad-die high-intensity domeless LEDs, so I expect a LOT less colour/tint variation than the early domed XHP50.2 HD emitters (seen in many of my earlier reviews of this class).

The multi-well reflector is smooth and relatively shallow. I would expect a nicely floody beam.

User Interface

Note: As mentioned above, Cyansky has completely updated the user interface with a revised selection of modes and a completely different mode selection method. This is a positive development in my view, as I am not a fan of the original UI of my first generation sample.

Given the UI on my preliminary sample has been abandoned, I will skip my usual detailed description and present the the illustrated image from the manual with some comments.

Preliminary model UI:

There are numerous issues with this now thankfully replaced interface. To start with, using clicks to advance modes and press-and-hold to turn On/Off is completely counter-intuitive given how almost every other modern light works (i.e., it is the reverse arrangement).

The press-and-hold (from either On or Off) had be released quickly – if you held for 2 secs you will wind up strobing yourself. And if the light enters the locked out state, you need to remember to double-click to turn on the light (which is completely inconsistent with the rest of interface and hard to remember). I particularly missed not being able to access Turbo by a double-click (like most lights do). I also found it odd to have a memory mode for only Lo and Med.

I am happy to report that the revised P50R UI on currently shipping lights works more as you would expect: Click to turn On/Off in memorized mode (everything but strobe and turbo), press-and-hold when Off for Eco mode, press-and-hold when On to advance modes, double-click for turbo, triple-click for strobe, etc.

You’ll have to check out other reviews to confirm the full details for the currently-shipping user interface, but this is very reassuring.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High 1:
Hi1

High 2:
Hi2

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is also no circuit noise on any level, which is always great to see. Note that circuit noise is not a problem per se, but I find that its absence (as in this case) bodes very well in terms of regulation and output/runtime efficiency. Scroll down to see actual results.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 8 Hz and 15 Hz every ~2 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Charging:

There is a small LED in the switch which shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

<3.0V Resting

>3.0V Resting

Even when heavily depleted the P50R starts charging at a relatively high current, ~1.5A. A lot of other modern lights start with slow ramp, but the P50R jumps right to it. This is a good charging rate, and will charge the cell relatively rapidly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Due to electronic switch, there is bound to be a parasitic standby drain when the light is not in use. I measured it as 59uA, which is completely negligible – it would take nearly 8 years to fully drain the cell. Still, I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap when not in use, to prevent any risk of accidental activation.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

P50R on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~6020K, and a small positive tint shift (+0.0114 Duv) to slightly greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 70.

These values are fairly typical for cool white XHP50.3 emitters in my testing, with a typical CRI level. I didn’t notice any significant chromatic aberrations across the beam profile.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


As you can see above, the P50R puts out a lot of light, with a wider and brighter spill thant then the single-emitter P25. It’s not quite as bright or wide a beam as the Wuben X1, but this is a good result for a multi-emitter light.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

P50R Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco51010---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Low506060---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Med200255250---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
High800940940---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g5,5300.010369
Turbo3,6004,4504,30014,300 cd13,800 cd235 mNoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Strobe1,600-----6-15 HzNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
SOS200-----NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---

The P50R does not live up to its rated 12,000 lumen max output spec – not by a long shot (note again that my lightbox calibration is on the generous side). That said, the Med and the two Hi modes actually seem to be brighter than the specs indicate.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports much lower beam intensity on Turbo compared to the specs.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

Note: Given the new user interface of the currently shipping light, I can’t guarantee that output levels are comparable. But I would expect overall output/runtime efficiency to be unchanged.

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

Performance is quite decent for a 4000 mAh cell – overall output/runtime efficiency seems very good (note that the X1 above is a 2×21700 light). That said, the regulation pattern is not flat-stabilized like some of the higher-end lights – you see a more typical direct-drive pattern here, like the Imalent and Sofirn lights.

That said, the light does have a step-down pattern over the course of the runs. Here is a blow-up of the first few hours of runtime on Hi1, Hi2 ans Turbo output:

Personally, I do not find the Turbo mode very useful here – you might as well stick with Hi2 for several minutes of high output before step-down. Or, the Hi1 level, for a more sustained high level.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has a solid build, with a tactical forward clicky switch in the tail and a side electronic switch.Lacks a moonlight mode or a beacon/signalling mode.
Circuit is fully voltage-regulated, with excellent output/runtime efficiency.XHP70.3 HD cool white emitter produces high output, but no option for neutral/warm tint, high CRI, or greater throw.
The light has a serviceable user interface, comparable to other lights with this configuration.More expensive than competing lights.
Good range of output levels, actually exceeding rated specs.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

Overall, the P50R is an impressive showing from Cyansky – but only with the new revised user interface. If the light had continued with the original interface of the early sample tested here, it would have gotten a significantly reduced rating above. So please take the 4 stars in this review to reflect the currently shipping model.

It’s true that the P50R does not have the perfectly flat regulation of some of its competitors. But this is not something that you will notice in practice, and the choice of initial outputs and step-down levels (and their frequency) is good in my view. It makes the light far more practical and functional than some of the competition that chase initial output measures. Indeed, this is a light that I can see myself using in regular practice (e.g., I think it will serve as an admirable bike headlight).

The above being said, the reported output specs are way out of whack for the Hi2 and Turbo levels especially (and in opposite directions). Again, I actually find this functional and useful, but accuracy in marketing is important. I am also not sure if they have adjusted the performance along with the new UI in the currently shipping versions. As such, taken all together, I feel 4 stars is the highest I can go for this light (and again, that is with the reported revised UI).

This is the first time I’ve seen a light that uses multiples of the latest generation of low-profile XHP50.3 emitters, and I think it was a smart design choice. I am very impressed with quality of the beam – specifically, it’s lack of visual artifacts from the multi-well reflector and its relative lack of chromatic aberrations. This emitter choice has also likely contributed to the excellent output/runtime efficiency.

Ergonomics of the light are fine, in keeping with what you should expect for the feature set. Sure, there are more compact high-output lights out there, but you pay for that in terms of reduced heatsinking and dented batteries (the latter due to the robustness of contact needed for high-drain applications). Note again however that I haven’t tested the revised shipping version, so I don’t know if there have been additional changes here.

All said, this light is well worth your attention in the high-output 1×21700 class. It is not cheap though, so you are going to want to weigh your options carefully.

Acknowledgement

The P50R was supplied by Cyansky for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$135 USD (~$185 CDN) online.

Wuben X1 Falcon

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The X1 is a very high-output flashlight featuring three XHP70.2 emitters running on two included 21700 rechargeable batteries. It features a distinctive build, with a built-in fan to maintain excellent thermal performance during max output.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m still working on clearing my backlog – the X1 sample was received in early November 2023.

Wuben came on the scene around the time that I was taking a break from flashlight reviewing. So I never had the opportunity to test one of their models until now. First up is their super-high-output X1, featuring 3x Cree XHP70.2 emitters.

The X1 has a distinctive build, with a flat side-by-side battery arrangement (2×21700). Coupled with a built-in fan for keeping the light cool during max-output operation, you have the potential for well-regulated sustained output. Does the X1 live up to its potential? Let’s find out.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWuben
ModelX1
Emitter3xXHP70.2
Tint6000 K
Max Output (Lumens)12,000
Min Output (Lumens)20
Max Runtime220 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)23,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)303 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS
Battery2x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)379 g
Length128.5 mm
Head Diameter56 mm
Body Diameter28 mm
WaterproofIP55

Package Details






The X1 comes in the modern “cellphone box” style packaging common for higher-end lights today. Included:

  • Wuben X1 flashlight
  • Integrated 2×21700 4800mAh battery pack
  • Paracord-style wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • Belt holster
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, and I particularly like the enclosed belt holster for the light.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.






The X1 is a substantial light – hefty, but with good handfeel and ergonomics for the size. It is slightly heavier than I would have expected, which I suspect is due to a significant heatsink in the head. The switch is easy to access, and I find the user interface reasonably intuitive (scroll down for details).

The light features a relatively closed body design, and you are not meant to open it up or change the cells (i.e., note the do-not-disassemble notice on the base). Attempting to open it will likely void the warranty.

That said, there are small torx screws located on the plates holding the switch, the side fan and side heatsink, as well as the handle to the head and the tail to the handle. So if you are determined to open it, you should be able to easily enough with the right torx bit. This is handy in case of battery failure, since I know most would be concerned in buying a permanently sealed light at this price point. I think this is a reasonable compromise, as I find most side-by-side designs that are meant to have the cells readily changed can often have flimsy tailcaps that break easily. So at least you don’t have to deal with that here – you can open it if you need to, but you shouldn’t need to.

One of the notable build features is the built-in fan, that activates when running the light on Turbo. The fan cannot be controlled separately (it’s thermally-regulated), and I don’t find it too loud even on sustained Turbo runs (but it is noticeable).

You can see the heatsink and fan through the side slats on either side of the light. This is a thoughtful design feature to keep the light able to provide sustained max output. Of course, the fan is one more part that can fail (or get clogged with dust, debris, etc.). But typically, these sorts of fans are rated for a good amount of time.

There is a USB-C charging port for charging the batteries, located on the side under a dust cover. The cover fits well and is snug. This should provide very decent splash or rain resistance, but as always I don’t recommend dunking the light in water if you can help it.

The light doesn’t have a huge amount of ridge detail, but what it does have is fairly deep. That combined with its rectangular shape gives it pretty good grip (rolling is certainly not going to be a problem!). The light can headstand, tailstand, or sidestand stably (i.e., on all surfaces). Note there are a couple of small holes on the back for attaching optional accessories, like a clip or bike attachment.

Anodizing appears to be excellent on my sample, no obvious chips or damage. My sample came in all black, but I gather other colours are available for the body. I would describe it as a matte finish. Lettering is minimal, and not overly bright (but sharp and clear).

There is a small LED at the center of the switch, showing you charging or charge-remaining status.



The X1 comes with three Cree XHP70.2 emitters, located side-by-side in a common reflector with individual wells. The light is of course more of a flooder than a thrower, but it produce a decent center beam, with a wide but narrow spill, given this shape (scroll down for beamshots).

The center beam pattern is lovely, somewhat creamy yellow (i.e., a bit warmer than I expected for the 6000K, scroll down for tint measures). Even the periphery is remarkably even and free of artifacts – they have done a very good job on the reflector.

Impressively, I haven’t noticed any significant tint shifting across the main hotspot or corona (something that is common with single XHP70.2 emitters). That said, there is a bit of a tint shift to purple in the spill and periphery (but I suspect that is due more to the purplish anti-reflective coating on the lens).

The bezel is flat black aluminum.

User Interface

The X1 uses a straightforward user interface, and one that is very similar to many other lights.

To start, you need to realize the light is shipped in Lockout mode. Since you cannot easily remove the tailcap, this is unavoidable. To unlock the light, simply do 4 fast clicks of the switch.

Mode levels: Eco, Low, Med, High, Turbo, Strobe, and SOS.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode (except for Turbo or flashing modes).
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Deactivates Lockout mode.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Advances through main output modes (again, except for Turbo or flashing modes).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Press-and-hold to return to last memorized mode (Single-click turns Off).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe. Triple-click again to jump to SOS. Single-click to return to last memorized mode.

From Lockout:

  • 4 clicks: Disable Lockout.

Mode memory:

Yes, for constant output modes, except Turbo.

Shortcuts:

  • Lowest mode: Press and hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the switch shows the battery capacity remaining (lasts for ~5 secs upon activation):

  • Solid blue: >90%
  • Flashing blue: ~40-90%
  • Solid red: ~15-40%
  • Flashing red: <15%

Low voltage warning:

Not that I’ve noticed – as you will see from the runtimes below, the shut-off is pretty abrupt.

Lockout mode:

Yes – turned on by default when shipped. You can toggled it off/on by 4-clicks from Off.

Reviewer Comments:

I find this interface very intuitive, similar to a lot of other lights (e.g. many of the Sofirn/Wurkkos lights with an electronic switch). The only inconsistency I’ve noticed is how you exit from the shortcuts to Turbo and Strobe/SOS (i.e., the first requires a press-hold, the other a click). Aside from that though, this is all very consistent and relatable.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is also no circuit noise on any level, which is always great to see. Note that circuit noise is not a problem per se, but I find that its absence (as in this case) bodes very well in terms of regulation and output/runtime efficiency. Scroll down to see actual results.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 9 Hz and 13 Hz every ~1.5 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Charging:

The LED on the switch shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid blue when the charging is complete.

The X1 has an interesting built-in charging circuit, as shown in the video below:

The X1 starts charging at a very low current (<0.05A) for a couple of seconds before ramping up to its full charging rate of just under 2.0A over the next 2-3 seconds. This slow ramp is a good safety feature, while the the circuit interrogates the state of the cells. Given its serial battery orientation, this is a reasonable charging rate by modern standards. The light charges at 9V.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Due to electronic switch, there is bound to be a parasitic standby drain when the light is not in use. But because of its fully enclosed physical build, I cannot measure it.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

X1 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5400K, and a negligible positive tint shift (+0.0047 Duv) toward slightly greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 82.

These values are slightly warmer than most cool white XHP70.2 emitters in my testing, bordering on neutral white. That is also a slightly better CRI than typical for the XHP70.2, although it is within the range of my testing. Unlike some other reviews of this light, I didn’t notice any significant chromatic aberrations across the beam profile (other then a slight shift to purplish in the periphery, likely due to the AR coating on the lens).

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


As you can see above, the X1 puts out a huge amount of light, with a very wide beam profile (note that I am holding with the light with the widest aspect parallel to the ground). It’s a great flood light in this orientation, with a super-wide beam.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

X1 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco202727---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
Low400500500---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
Med1,0001,2001,100---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
High2,6003,7003,650---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g5,4100.004782--------------
Turbo12,00012,00011,00019,500 cd17,800 cd267 mNoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g---12,00020220 hours23,000 cd303 m5Strobe, SOS2x21700-379 g128.5 mm56 mm28 mmIP55
Strobe3,000-----9-14 HzNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
SOS200-------2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------

The X1 seems to match fairly closely to the specs on most levels (although keep in mind that my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high). The Turbo spec seems slightly over-stated relative to my testing however.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports lower beam intensity on Turbo compared to the specs. But I find these throw measures very reasonable for these kinds of emitters and output levels.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Given the dual-cell and triple-emitter design, it can be a little hard to compare to most lights. I’ve thrown in the fan-cooled super-large Acebeam X75 for comparison at the extreme output end.

Max

Hi

What you can see above is that regulation is excellent, as is output/runtime efficiency  (i.e., more that twice the output or runtime compared to single cell/emitter lights). This is what you can expect from a good multi-emitter light on dual cells with good heatsinking – more stable and longer-lasting performance.

Since I expect many are interested in how the initial Turbo modes compare (i.e., how quickly and how far the lights step-down), here is a blow-up of the first few mins of runtime on max output:

The X1 steps down around the one minute mark, similar to many other lights (although to be fair, most lights aren’t driven as hard as the X1 on Turbo).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has outstanding output/runtime efficiency.Max output is slightly lower than the specs indicate, although the rest of the output levels seem fairly accurate.
Circuit shows excellent flat-stabilized regulation, with thermally-mediated stepdowns (aided by built-in cooling fan).Light lacks a moonlight mode.
Solid and sturdy build, although heavier than I expected.Light is larger and heavier than most in this class.
User interface is very intuitive and similar to other modern lights.Due to the build, physical lockout is not possible, only electronic lockout.
Lockout mode (on by default when shipped) can be easily disabled/re-enabled.
Beam profile is remarkably clean and free of artifacts or tint shifting on my sample.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The X1 is one of my new favourite high-output, multi-emitter lights. Thanks to the built-in cooling fan (and hefty heatskink) it can sustain Turbo output for a reasonable amount of time without getting too hot to hold. But it can also maintain an incredibly bright Hi mode for an extended runtime. As such, this light helps fill a bit of Goldilocks “just-right” intermediate between a single-cell high-out light and my massive Acebeam X75. To be honest, I can’t think of many occasions when I would need more light (or runtime) than what the X1 can provide.

I find the light comfortable to hold and use (although it is a bit heavy), with a very intuitive user interface common to many lights. The inability to easily open up the light is actually probably more of a selling feature here, as I don’t have to worry about compromising waterproofness. And if one of the cells does eventually fail, I know I can access the tailcap reasonably easily.

Due to this design, physical lockout is not possible – and I have no idea what the standby drain is. I’m not too worried though, as I have not seen any drop in capacity from the initial battery read-out even when storing for several months. The electronic lockout is quite reasonable here.

While the extra bulk and weight many be an issue, the side-by-side design at least makes this still relatively easy to pocket.

Performance of the light is excellent across all modes, with flat-stabilized output and outstanding runtime. I do wish the light would give some kind of advance warning when the batteries are near shutdown – but you can always reactivate at the lower level to if you need to squeeze some extra light before recharging (and turning off/on periodically will allow you to check the charge remaining).

In summary, overall excellent build quality and performance in my handling. I’m impressed for my first Wuben light.

Acknowledgement

The X1 Falcon was supplied by Wuben for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$180 USD (~$240 CDN) o the Wuben website here.

Wurkkos WK15

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The WK15 is a relatively compact, inexpensive, general-purpose flashlight running on a single 21700 battery. It features the common Cree XHP50.2 emitter.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I am still working through my backlog of lights – this WK15 sample was received late last summer.

I’ve reviewed a number of general purpose 1×21700 lights by Wurkkos and Sofirn, and have typically been very impressed with the performance and build for the price. I noticed a general lack of reviews on the WK15, which seems to be a particularly inexpensive model in this space. Wurkkos agreed to send me a sample to review.

Equipped with the popular XHP50.2 emitter, available in both the neutral white 5000K and cool white 6000K colour temperatures (I opted for 5000K). The WK15 rated specs are very similar to many competing models in this space, despite its relatively compact size. Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelWK15
EmitterXHP50.2
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)3,000
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime500 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)11,892 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)218 m
Constant Levels6
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)70 g
Length113 mm
Head Diameter27.8 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68

Package Details




Unlike the modern style packaging of the newer higher-end models from Sofirn and Wurkkos, the WK15 comes in fairly basic packaging. Inside I found:

  • Wurkkos WK15 flashlight
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would like to see a holster included. FYI, Wurkkos sells an inexpensive holster (small size for ~$2 USD) that fits this light.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Imalent MS03, Convoy S21E, Skilhunt M300, Wurkkos WK15, Wurkkos TS22, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P25, Nitecore P20iX, Acebeam E70.








The WK15 is a very compact 1×21700 light – its definitely on the smaller side of the lights I’ve tested in this class. It vaguely reminds me of the Fenix E35, although in a more basic build.

The tailcap is flat, with a lanyard cut-out area. It is able to tailstand stably. Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can easily lock-out this light by a simple twist of the tailcap.

The electronic switch on the side of the head has red and green LEDs underneath to show charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is very similar to a lot of Wurkkos and Sofirn lights – it’s ok, but could be a bit tighter/firmer (i.e., hard switch covers always have some degree of play).

The light’s USB-C charging port is located on the opposite side from the switch, under a rubber cover. The cover fits pretty well – not too too tight, not too loose. I expected waterproofness is reasonable (i.e., more splashable than watertight).

There is a lot of traditional knurling on the light – not super aggressive, but more than most, producing excellent grip. Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte. Thanks to included bi-directional clip, the light will not roll on its side. The clip attaches firmly, and is good for both bezel up and down carry.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top.

This is a solid little light, with good grip and handfeel. It does seem a bit more budget than the rest of the Wurrkos or Sofirn line – but that is in keeping with its lower price point.


The WK15 comes with a XHP50.2 HD emitter, in neutral or cool white tint (neutral on my sample). The reflector is fairly shallow and well textured (moderate orange peel, MOP). There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

As expected, there is noticeable tint/colour shifting across the periphery of the beam, with a warmer yellowish white hotspot surrounded by a coolish spill and purplish shift near the edge of the periphery. This is a well-known issue with HD emitters of the XHP family, particularly obvious on the XHP50.2. The textured reflector normally helps to even it out, but I do find my sample is rather noticeable.

The bezel is flat black aluminum. So you can headstand stably, but you can’t tell if the light is on in that orientation.

User Interface

The WK15 has a straightforward user interface, and one that is similar to many basic Sofirn and Wurkkos lights.

Mode levels: Moonlight, Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, and Strobe

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Moonlight mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode (only Eco, Lo, Med and Hi can be memorized).
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Activate Lock-out mode. Four clicks to unlock.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle between Eco > Lo > Med > Hi (in sequence).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Single click jumps you back to last memorized mode.
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.Single click jumps you back to last memorized mode.

Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Moonlight, non-Turbo constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Moonlight mode: Press-and-hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off.

Low voltage warning:

Not that I noticed.

Lockout mode:

Yes, you can physically lock out the light at the tailcap. There is an electronic lockout as well that you can trigger manually (i.e., no auto-lockout).

Battery indicator:

Not that I noticed.

Reviewer Comments:

A very serviceable and standard interface – easy to remember and use.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Moonlight:
Moonlight

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is high frequency circuit noise on all levels above Moonlight. This is common on a lot of inexpensive lights, and is not necessarily a concern as it is not visually detectable. I measured the frequency as just over 21 kHz on all modes from Eco through Turbo (note the last trace above shows an inaccurate lower value – the auto measure feature in the oscilloscope software sometimes gets fooled by slower harmonics).

Strobe:

Strobe is a constant 14 Hz.

Charging:

The switch button shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The WK15 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many good quality modern lights (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). I’m actually surprised to see it here, given the budget price. This is also a very high charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Yes, due to the electronic switch. I measured it at 1.7 mA, which is moderately high. For a 5000mAh cell, that would mean you would deplete the battery is about 4 months. But you can easily cut this current by a simple twist of the tailcap.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

WK15 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4800K, and a slight positive tint shift (+0.0103 Duv) to slight greenish-yellow at this temperature. I wasn’t able to get a reliable CRI (Ra) measure.

These values are consistent with the performance of a neutral white XHP50.2 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light. Note that there is a noticeable tint shift from yellowish hotspot to cooler white spill with purplish spillbeam edge, which is common to 50.2 HD emitters.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the WK15 has a pretty traditional beam for this class.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

WK15 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Moon11.21.2---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Eco101010---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Low100150150---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Med550590585---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g4,8150.0113-
High1,5001,5501,550---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Turbo3,0003,5003,30013,500 cd12,100 cd220 mNo1.24 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Strobe3,000-----14.2 Hz21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---

My WK15 sample very closely matches the reported specs for this light. I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights, however.

That said, my NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports very consistent peak intensity throw to reported specs.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Med

Hi

Max

Consistent with the budget price, it looks like the WK15 is using a simple linear FET driver. Performance is extremely consistent with the Sofirn SP35T – basically, a direct-drive-like pattern where the battery resistance is ultimately regulating output over time. Sadly, there is no flat voltage-regulated performance here, unlike the higher-end TS22 for example.

All that said, performance is not bad – it is just very basic. Note however that both the Hi mode as well as the Turbo mode step down rather quickly, compared to some other lights. But the flip-side of that is the light certainly lasts for a reasonably long amount of time.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has a solid build, with an electronic switch.Circuit is not voltage-regulated, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes.
The light has a serviceable basic user interface, easy to remember and use.The circuit is also noticeably less efficient than other current-controlled lights with flat regulation.
Price is reasonably low.XHP50.2 HD emitters produce well known tint shifts across the beam, with a yellowish hotspot, cool white spill, and purplish spillbeam edge.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The WK15 is a compact but solid light, with a decent physical build and good (if basic) user interface. You could do a lot worse for the price!

But as described above, the circuit performance is disappointing here. Similar to the Sofirn SP35T, you get a reasonable amount of light for a reasonable amount of time. But its performance just doesn’t compare to the fully-regulated competition, such as the efficient (but more expensive) TS22 in comparison. That said, the published output specs seem pretty accurate for this model, with a good range of output levels.

The XHP50.2 HD emitter is known for a lot of tint/chromatic variation across its beam, and this example is no different. I can’t specifically fault this model in that regard, but my WK15 sample is particularly noticeable.

Taken together, I find these drawbacks limit this light to a maximum 3.5 star rating on my subjective scale. This is still quite decent, and better than some equivalent models at this price point. But there are couple of others I might recommend over this. That said if you like a straightforward interface and grippy finish, this light does fit the bill for the budget class.

Acknowledgement

The WK15 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$25 USD (~$35 CDN) with battery included on the Wurkkos website here.

Sofirn SC33

3 comments

The SC33 is a high-output, general-purpose flashlight running on a single included rechargeable 21700 battery. It features a well-regulated and efficient boost circuit for maximum performance.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m still catching up on my backlog – this SC33 sample was received at the end of last summer.

Following the release of the popular Wurkkos TS22 earlier last year, there was much interest in the enthusiast community to see a similar model with auto-lockout disabled. Wurkkos’ sister company Sofirn didn’t take long to come out with the SC33 to meet this need.

The SC33 features the Cree XHP70.3 HI emitter (which the TS22 was eventually upgraded to as well), available in both the neutral-white 5000K and cool-white 6500K tints. You can also get it as a kit with a Sofirn-branded 21700 included.

Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSofirn
ModelSC33
EmitterXHP70.3 HI
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)5,200
Min Output (Lumens)10
Max Runtime300 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)26,750 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)327 m
Constant Levels6
FlashingStrobe, SOS, Beacon
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)110 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length131 mm
Head Diameter32 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68

Package Details





The SC33 came in the modern “cellphone box” style packaging common for higher-end Sofirn and Wurkkos models. Included:

  • Sofirn SC33 flashlight
  • Sofirn-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Pocket clip (attached by three hex screws)
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would like to see a holster included.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.









The SC33 is considerably heftier than the TS22 – the handfeel is quite noticeably different. From the pics alone, you might think this is a compact light – it is actually one of the most beefy electronic-switch controlled 1×21700 lights I’ve tested. This is a key discriminating factor to keep in mind, if you looking at the choosing between models.

While it is not as long as the Sofirn SP35T (with its physical tail clicky), the SC33 is heavier. Like the earlier Sofirn light, thie SC33 features a dual spring design. This makes the light very suitable for tactical purposes, but it does mean you have to accept greater length.

The SC33 is a distinctive build – most notable for the charging port in the tail and attached pocket clip. I’m not sure why they went this route for charging, since it also necessitates a dual-body wall design for the current path. This explains the greater width of the SC33.The charging port has a built-in rubber dust cover. This should provide decent splash-resistance, but I wouldn’t recommend dunking the light in water.

The pocket clip is affixed by 3 small hex screws. The clip is thus removable, but not something to swap on or off easily. Note it only positions the light in a single direction (i.e., bezel down). So it wouldn’t be suitable to mount on a ball cap, for example.

The electronic tailcap switch has a metal cover with circular ridge detail. I found the switch traverse and performance consistent with most modern electronic switches – a bit soft, but decent enough. It is a slightly audible click. Given the switch cover’s slightly recessed nature, it is able to tailstand stably (although is still near enough the surface that accidental activation is possible).

Body threads at the head are square-cut but not anodized – again, another aspect required by the tail charging feature. A physical lockout is not possible on this light, you will need rely on the an electronic lockout.

The SC33 uses a concentric ring design on the body, with some additional cut-outs, to help with grip. With the included clip installed, I would say grip is excellent. Also thanks to included clip, the light will not roll when layed on its side. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte.

Inside, the light comes with a Sofirn-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a good size spring in the head, ensuring good contact.

There is a small LED at the base of the head, that shows the charging or battery charge status (scroll down for details).

This is a very solid light, with good grip and handfeel. But it is more substantial than most in this class, which also makes it less “pocketable”.



The SC33 comes with a Cree XHP70.3 HI emitter, which is my preferred high-output choice (due to the reduced colour aberrations compared to the HD emitters). The reflector is fairly deep and heavily textured (heavy orange peel, HOP). There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

The bezel is crenelated aluminum. Scalloping is not too aggressive, but would do some damage if you struck someone with it. Light can headstand stably.

User Interface

The SC33 uses a straightforward user interface, and one that is very similar to the Wurkkos TS22.

To start, you have a choice between Stepped Ramping mode (default), or continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode. To switch between these modes, click 4 times when the light is On.

Stepped Ramping mode (default) levels: Moonlight, Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, Strobe, SOS, and Beacon.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Monlight mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo (or, if auto-lockout engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Activates Lockout mode. Double-click to unlock and return to memorized mode.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Advances through main output modes.
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Single click returns to last memorized mode.
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Switch between Stepped Ramping mode and Smooth Ramping mode.

From Lockout:

  • Press-and-hold: Momentary Moonlight mode, until you release
  • Single-click: Nothing (does a double flash to show lockout status)
  • Double-click: Turn on in last memorized mode.
  • 4 clicks: Disable Auto-Lockout.

Mode memory:

Yes, for constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Moonlight mode: Press and hold the switch.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery capacity remaining (lasts for ~5 secs upon activation):

  • Solid green: ~75-100%
  • Flashing green: ~50-70%
  • Solid red: ~25-50%
  • Flashing red: 0-25%

Low voltage warning:

Yes, the main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off at ~2.95V

Lockout mode:

No physically, only electronic lockout. Enabled by default, auto-lockout can be disengaged.

Reviewer Comments:

I find this interface fairly intuitive, with a click to turn On in constant output modes, and press-and-hold for Moonlight (from Off). Otherwise, press-and-hold advances modes, single click turns Off/On, and shortcuts/blinky modes are multiple clicks. This is the most common arrangement, and works well. And you have the choice of smooth ramping or stepped, which is appreciated.

Like most enthusiasts, I’m not a fan of auto-lockouts, so it’s nice to have the option to disable it here. But I should note that auto-lockout is engaged by default.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Moon:
Moon

Eco:
Eco

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no circuit noise on any level. This is similar to the TS22, except that model showed some (non-visible) high-frequency circuit noise on Turbo.

Note that circuit noise is not a concern, as it common to many lights. But do find that its absence (as in this case) bodes very well in terms of regulation and output/runtime efficiency. Scroll down to see actual results.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 8 Hz and 14 Hz every ~2 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Beacon:

A single flash beacon once every 2 secs (0.5 Hz).

Charging:

There is a small LED in the head which shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The SC33 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). The initial charging rate here is ~0.3A, which jumps to ~1.5A once the cell is over 3.0V resting voltage. This is a decent charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Due to electronic switch, there is bound to be a parasitic standby drain when the light is not in use. But because of physical build, I wasn’t able to measure.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

SC33 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5725K, and a negligible positive tint shift (+0.0103 Duv) to a very slight greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 58.

These values are consistent with the performance of a cool white XHP50.2 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light. Note that there is a tint shift to more yellowish spill, with purplish spillbeam edge, as is common on XHP50.2 HD emitters.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the SC33 has a similar tint and overall output to the TS22, although with a different profile – the SC33 is more throwy, and the bezel provides for a less sharp demarcation of the spillbeam edge.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

SC33 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Moonlight108.88.8---NoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
Eco504747---NoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
Low300310310---NoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
Med750710710---NoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
High1,8001,8001,800---NoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g4,6500.005482
Turbo5,2005,2003,90018,000 cd10,000 cd200 mNoNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
Strobe5,200-----8-14 HzNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
SOS-------No0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---
Beacon------0.5 HzNo0.32 A1.50 AYes (not measured)12 g189 g---

The SC33 seems to match fairly closely to the specs on most levels (although keep in mind that my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high). Turbo is clearly over-stated however, as it only approaches that output on initial activation – and quickly declines by the ANSI FL-1 standard of 30 secs post-activation.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports much lower beam intensity on Turbo compared to the specs. But I find these throw measures reasonable for this kind of emitter and output level.

Note that “Moonlight” is a misnomer here, as >8 lumens qualifies as a low in my view.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

Performance is right where you would expect for a XHP70.3 emitter coupled with a good current-controlled, fully voltage-regulated, high-efficiency circuit. 🙂

It is very much inline with the Wurkkos TS22, but also the various Acebeam and Cyansky lights above. The only real difference is in the actual output levels (both initial and step-down) for each mode. Overall efficiency seems pretty consistent across all these well-regulated models.

Since I know many are interested in how the initial Turbo modes compare (i.e., how quickly and how far the lights step-down), here is a blow-up of the first few mins of runtime on max output:

The SC33 steps down sooner than the Wurkkos and the Acebeam lights, but to a higher stabilized level. As always, it’s your call which pattern you prefer.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excellent output/runtime efficiency.Max output is lower than the specs would indicate (although the rest of the output levels seem fairly accurate).
Circuit shows excellent flat-stabilized regulation, with thermally-mediated stepdowns.Light lacks a true moonlight mode.
Solid and sturdy build, with securely attached pocket clipThere are some minor tint shifts across the beam periphery (common on this emitter class).
User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class.
Due to the charging port location and design, physical lockout is not possible, only electronic lockout.
Auto-lockout mode can be disabled.Light is larger and heavier than most in this compact 21700 class.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The SC33 is another strong showing in the high-output 1×21700 class of lights. I would have no issue recommending this light along with the similarly performing Wurkkos TS22, Acebeam E70 and P17, and Cyanski P25. It really comes down to the specifics on the user interface, output level spacing, and build.

There are a number of issues that resulted in losing a full star in my subjective rating system. One of the most significant is the tailcap location of the charging dock, which has required a dual-wall body tube design that significantly raises the size and weight of the light, and prevents physical lockout. While the electronic lockout is serviceable (and the auto-lockout can be easily disengaged), I still prefer a physical lockout on my lights.

The extra bulk and weight is a two-edge sword as well. This may be what allows it to run at higher step-down output level than some of the competition (i.e., extra heat-sinking mass). And some may prefer a heftier light like this. Personally though, I like a more compact light for easier pocketability and carry. I also typically prefer a bi-directional clip (the extra size here reduces the value of a reverse carry option).

Accuracy to published specs is not bad, but not quite as close as some of the competition. I wouldn’t let that hold you back, but I do encourage you to compare the actual performance of lights across my reviews. For example, if maximizing throw is important to you, you may want to look at one of the larger lights with bigger reflectors. More significantly to me, the light lacks a a true moonlight mode, which is disappointing (but may not matter as much to you in a larger light like this).

At the end of the day, I find this to be another quality light from Sofirn. It has a very serviceable user interface, and excellent performance. The price is also very good, especially for the battery-included bundle. As always, it comes down to the specific feature set and build you prefer.

Acknowledgement

The SC33 was supplied by Sofirn for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$40 USD (~$55 CDN) on sale on the Sofirn website here.

Acebeam L19 v2.0

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The Acebeam L19 v2.0 a very long-throwing hunting flashlight, featuring a TIR lens for maximum throw with minimal spill. Powered by a single included 21700 battery, the light features dual electronic and tactical switches.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Catching up on my backlog, today we have the L19 v2.0 from Acebeam. It is a long-range hunting-style flashlight that can throw a beam of up to 1520m, or 2200 lumens (depending on which emitter you select). The basic model features the low-profile Luminus SFT40 (HI 6500K) which throws up to 1083m with 2200 lumens. However, for an increased cost, you can also select the Osram PM1 white emitter for 1300m at a reduced 1650 lumens. Alternatively, if you are willing to go monochromatic, you can get the Osram NM1 green emitter for max throw of 1520m at the full 2200 lumens. There is also apparently an IR emitter option as well. Acebeam thoughtfully sent both Osram emitter (white and green) editions for comparison testing.

Physically, the light reminds me of the Wurkkos TD01 I recently reviewed, although it is a bit longer and more substantial in feel. Like that light, there is a tailcap physical forward clicky switch, coupled with an electronic side switch in the head. The interface on the L19 is fairly unique though, as I will explain below.

Let’s see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides for the samples provided for testing – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

MakerAcebeamAcebeam
ModelL19 V2.0L19 V2.0
EmitterOsram PM1Osram NM1
TintWhiteGreen
ModeTurboTurbo
Max Output (Lumens)1,6502,200
Min Output (Lumens)12
Max Runtime94 days94 days
Max Beam Intensity (cd)422,407 cd577,600 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)1,300 m1,520 m
Constant Levels66
FlashingStrobeStrobe
Battery1x217001x21700
Weight (w/o battery)205 g205 g
Weight (with battery)284 g284 g
Length163.8 mm163.8 mm
Head Diameter60.0 mm60.0 mm
Body Diameter25.4 mm25.4 mm
WaterproofIP68 5mIP68 5m

Package Details





The L19 v2.0 comes in nice retail packaging, similar to other higher-end Acebeam. The hard-sided box comes with a magnetic closing flap. There are a lot of printed specs on the back, with everything secured in cut-out foam. Inside the box, I found:

  • Acebeam L19 v2.0 flashlight
  • Acebeam-branded 5100mAh 21700 battery with USB-C charging port
  • Belt holster
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Switch boot cover
  • Manual
  • Warranty card

This is a good package – I particularly like the included belt holster. These large head lights tend not to fit well into after-market holsters, so this is very convenient.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F, Sofirn C8L, Wurkkos TS30S Pro, Wurkkos TD01, Acebeam L19 V2.0, Acebeam P17.












As previously mention the L19 v2.0 longer and a bit more substantial than the “budget” Wurkkos TD01. I do find the L19 somewhat top-heavy, due to the substantial TIR optic in the head.

The dual switch design is a little unusual. You do have a standard protruding forward physical clicky switch in the tail for on/off operation – but in Turbo/Strobe only. This switch is independent of the side electronic switch, which provides the full range and functions of the light. The switches do not work together – each controls the light separately, with the tailswitch taking priority. Scroll for down to the User Interface section more more info.

Feel and traverse of the main Tactical clicky switch is good, for both momentary (half-press) and clicked-on. The secondary Function switch is electronic, with a typical minimal traverse and feel. The side switch is flush with the light, and is hard to find by touch alone (although you can find by process of elimination, since the other side remains rounded with metal fins).

The unique dual switch arrangement requires a double-walled tube connecting the tailcap to the head (i.e., one to the carry the current from the tailcap switch, one to allow the electronic side switch to work). This design means that it is not possible to physically lock out the light – current is always available through the screw threads. There is an electronic lockout instead, which works for both switches (scroll for down for the User Interface section). Since the primary Tactical switch protrudes, tailstanding is not possible, and accidental activation is easy.

There is a grip ring just above the tailcap, allowing for a tactical cigar-type grip. There are cut-outs on the side of the grip ring for using the wrist lanyard. The body has decent grip, with cut-outs along the length and on the head. The light can roll fairly easily, given the large and relative smooth head – I recommend you headstand the light when not in use.

Anodizing is standard black, and looks to be excellent quality (it is rated as type III – Hard Anodized). It feels relatively thick, and is actually somewhat grippy, with a matte finish. It seems to very high quality, and I didn’t notice any flaws on my sample. There is an indicator light showing battery status when the light is first turned on.

As you can see above, there are springs in both the tail and the head, ensuring the cell is held securely in place.

Like the Acebeam P17, simply remove the 5100mAh cell and charge it through the integrated USB-C port directly on its positive terminal.





White Osram:

Green Osram:

The L19 v2.0 uses a distinctive large TIR optic, similar to the TD01 I recently reviewed (except with a thinner centre “column”). I’ve taken pics from a lot of angles above, so you can see how it generally obscures the emitter. Both the white and green Osram emitters are shown above.

The bezel is crenelated black aluminum – with a larger number of crenelations than typical, but they are not too aggressive (so you can still headstand stably). Scroll down for outdoor beamshots.

User Interface

The L19 v2.0 has a pretty unique user interface, with the tactical tailcap switch and side electronic switch functioning independently, and the tailswitch taking precedence. What I mean by that is that if you turn the light on by the side switch, clicking the tailcap doesn’t turn it off – it simply turns on the Turbo mode (with another tailcap click required to exit back to the previous side-switch setting). Let’s walk through everything in sequence.

Side switch available levels: Moonlight, Low, Mid1, Mid2, High, Turbo, Strobe.

Tactical switch available levels: Turbo, Strobe.

From OFF:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Momentary On in Turbo mode.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns On in Turbo mode.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Turns On in Moonlight mode.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold >5 secs: Locks out the light (press-and-hold again for 4 secs to unlock the light.
  • Side switch, single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode (excluding Moonlight and Turbo modes, no mode memory for those).
  • Side switch, double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Side switch, triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.

Since the switches control the light independently, the functioning of the light depends on which switch was used to activate:

From ON by the Tail switch:

  • Tail switch, press-and-hold: Strobe.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold or single-click: Nothing.

From ON by the Side switch:

  • Tail switch, press-and-hold: Momentary On in Turbo (i.e., functions as if Off at the Tail switch, and Tail switch takes priority over the Side switch).
  • Tail switch, single-click: Constant On in Turbo (again, functions as if Off at the Tail switch).
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Steps up to the next non-Turbo constant output mode (in sequence, Lo > Mid1 > Mid2 > High).
  • Side switch, single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side switch, double-click: Jumps to Turbo (or jumps back to memorized mode from Turbo).
  • Side switch, triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light with either switch, the indicator on the opposite side of the Side switch shows the battery voltage:

  • Solid green: ~30-100%
  • Solid red: ~10-30%
  • Flashing red: <10%

That’s an unusually large range for solid green – most lights show a flashing green to differentiate lower charge status.

Mode memory:

Yes, when activating by the Side switch.

Shortcuts:

  • Side switch, press-and-hold (from Off): Moonlight.
  • Side switch, double-click: Jumps to Turbo (or jumps back to memorized mode from Turbo).
  • Side switch, triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.

Low voltage warning:

Not that I’ve noticed.

Lockout mode:

Yes, by pressing-and-holding the Side switch for more than 5 secs from Off (main beam will flash 3 times). Because of dual-wall design, no physical tailcap lockout is possible.

Reviewer Comments:

This is clearly intended primarily as a tactical light. But the dual switch interface takes a bit of getting used to. Case in point: when locked out electronically, the light cannot be turned On at the tailcap. But if you click the Tail switch into the On position, you will now not be able to unlock the light by the Side switch (i.e., need to have the Tail switch in the Off position to unlock the light). This gave me a bit of pause when I first encountered it out of the box – I needed to read the manual to troubleshoot the problem.

During regular use it also feels a little wonky to have the physical Tail switch take precedence over the electronic one when not in lockout (i.e., jump to Turbo when On by the side switch). And again, you have to click the Tail switch Off before you can regain control using the Side switch. A bit quirky, without a clearer tactile or visual indication of the status of each of the switches.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Moon:
Moon

Low:
Lo

Mid1:
Med

Mid2:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no circuit noise or any sign of PWM on any level – the L19 v2.0 is perfectly flat current-controlled. 🙂

Strobes:

Strobe (White LED sample):

Strobe (Green LED sample):

Strobe is a consistent 8.4 Hz on both my samples.

There is no SOS or Beacon mode on the L19.

Charging:

The L19 v2.0 comes with Acebeam’s 21700 5100mAh battery with a built-in charging port. There is a small LED on the positive terminal of the battery, which shows red when the cell is charging, and green when it is fully charged. In my testing, resting voltage of the cell was ~4.19V at termination.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

Like the P17, which shares the same cell, the Acebeam 21700 5100mAh battery shows an initial low USB-C charging current of ~0.20A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), which jumps up to ~1.15A once the cell is >3.0V resting. This two-current charging is a good design, and indicates a safe integrated charging circuit. The max charging rate is a bit lower than most lights/batteries in this class, but much better than the original version of this battery (e.g., E70).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 0.195 mA. This is a reasonably low standby drain, and it would take just over 3 years to fully drain the cell.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

L19 White on Med:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5020K, and a noticeably positive tint shift (+0.0134 Duv) to greenish-yellow at this temperature. For some reason, I was not able to get a CRI (Ra) measurement on my light sensor.

This is my first Osram PM1 emitter, but these values are consistent with the rated specs for a cool white emitter, and match my visual experience of this light.

Let’s see how the green L19 compares – keeping in mind these budget light sensors were NOT designed for monochromatic light sources.

L19 Green on Med:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5475K, and an extremely positive tint shift (+0.0611 Duv) to green at this temperature. There would be no point in trying to measure CRI (Ra), since it doesn’t apply for coloured emitters.

This is my first Osram NM1 emitter, but these values are consistent with the rated specs for a green emitter, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All long-distance outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 1 sec exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The tree at the centre of the hotspot is approximately 90 meters (~100 yards) from the camera. Note the road dips down and turns away in the distance, out of the camera’s sight line. Learn more about my outdoor beamshot locations here.

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare the overall beams by switching between tabs.



“T” refers to Turbo mode in the L19 beamshots above.

To help illustrate the hotspots better, I’ve also cropped the raw pictures around the centre of the frame. As before, click on any thumbnail below to open a full size image in a new window.



As you can see above, the L19 v2.0 is an incredibly focused thrower. It is throwier than the TD01, with a smaller hotspot and a bit less light in the periphery. Like the TD01, it also has some beam rings in the near spill of the periphery.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

L19 v2.0 Testing Results

TintModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
WhiteMoonlight10.080.08---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
WhiteLow60100100---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
WhiteMed1220290290---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
WhiteMed2470530530---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
WhiteHigh870930900---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g5,0200.0134-
WhiteTurbo1,6501,7501,600365,000 cd342,000 cd1,170 mNoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
WhiteStrobe900-----8.4 HzNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenMoonlight10.080.08---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenLow120115115---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenMed1330340340---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenMed2700660660---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenHigh1,2501,3001,250---NoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g5,4750.0611-
GreenTurbo2,2002,2502,100465,000 cd439,000 cd1,325 mNoNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---
GreenStrobe900-----8.4 HzNo0.20 A1.15 A195 uA204 g284 g---

Impressively, my L19 v2.0 samples seem to be fairly accurate for output measures – although I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights. Moonlight mode is actually dimmer than the specs indicate, which is great.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and reports slightly lower beam intensity on Turbo than the specs. But this is still an incredibly impressive showing – the green L19 is the furthest throwing light I’ve tested.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

The Acebeam P17 provides a great comparable here, as it has exactly the same battery. As you see above, the Osram emitters in the L19 are clearly being driven harder at the maximum settings, given the lower runtimes. They are also much lower output emitters, compared to the XHP70.3. But this difference becomes less noticeable at lower drive levels, such as the Med mode runs above.

The green Osram NM1 emitter certainly seems to have an output advantage of over the white PM1. But its hard to know how much to trust that result, as my home-made lightbox was never calibrated for monochromatic light sources.

You also see a nice regulated pattern here, unlike the competing budget Wurkkos TD01 model. And there is a less pronounced step-down on max compared to most other lights. Here is an extended view of the first minutes, to better show the difference:

Max-extendedThese results show the improved driver performance on L19 compared to the TD01.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
One of the furthest throwing lights I've tested, thanks to the TIR optic. User interface is unusual, with independent action of the side electronic switch and tactical physical clicky switch.
Multiple emitter options, allowing a good range of choices.Light cannot tailstand, and rolls easily on its side.
Circuit is fully voltage-regulated, with excellent efficiency. Physical lockout is not possible, only electronic lockout.
The light has a solid build with good handfeel, although there are some small issues (see Cons).

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The Acebeam L19 v2.0 is clearly a more sophisticated build with better performance than the budget TIR-based Wurkkos TD01 that I previously reviewed – and so earns a higher rating above. Of course, it is also significantly more expensive as well.

While the TD01 had a very decent budget build, the hand feel and machining of the L19 is top-notch. The specific TIR optic and range of emitter options here allows for even greater focused throw (which is the whole point of these lights, after all). The improved circuit on the L19 also translates into better performance (i.e., greater sustained high output, and better regulated output over time, compared to the TD01). It’s also great to see Acebeam meet (or nearly meet) their published performance specs on these lights – something you don’t typically see with the budget makers.

The one area that I’m not convinced is entirely an upgrade on the L19 is the user interface – specifically, the independent functionality of the two switches. I understand this is unchanged from the v1.0 of this light, but it is new to me. And I appreciate this is primarily intended as a tactical light, with the physical clicky switch. But the interaction of switches in unusual. And while clear enough once you get used to it, there is something to be said for a simpler (and more consistent) overall user interface. This is especially true if you have many lights, or if you routinely loan your lights out to other people. The innovative UI here also necessitated a dual-wall body tube without thread anodizing, which means that you cannot physically lockout the light and need instead to rely on an electronic lockout (which is not my preference). Taken together, these quirks knock half-a-star off a top rating on my subjective scale.

This is my first experience of the low-profile Osram PM1 and NM1 emitters, and my experience is quite positive for both of them. The white PM1 clearly outperforms the standard low-profile Luminus SFT40 emitter for peak throw, which is what these lights are all about. But it is the green NM1 that really impressed me – noticeably greater throw and overall output, for equivalent runtime.

Despite all my years of reviewing, this is actually the first high-output hunting-style light with a green LED that I have tested. I had expected this to be less-than-practical in night time use, given the limitations of the monochromatic source. But a funny thing happens after you have been running the light for >30 secs or so outdoors – yours eyes begin to adapt to the tint, and it starts to seem subjectively significantly “whiter”. It soon feels like you are simply seeing the world more in black-and-white and shades of gray, rather than in the overwhelming shades of green when you first activate the light. This is actually quite practical for looking for contrasts or reflective objects. Of course, if you run the light for more than several minutes expect to experience a comparable rebound effect once you turn the light off – the world looks decidedly purple for awhile. It will take a similar amount of time for your brain and photoreceptors to adapt back to the current ambient light temperature and tint.

If you are looking for maximum throw with a standard LED, the L19 v2.0 is certainly a top contender in this class. I’ve impressed with the quality of the TIR optic, and its ability to throw a focused beam. Another quality light series from Acebeam.

Acknowledgement

The L19 v2.0 samples were supplied by Acebeam for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$120-135 USD depending on the emitter selected (~$160-180 CDN).

Cyansky P25 V2.0

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The P25 is a tactical-style, general-purpose flashlight running on a single included 21700 battery. It features the high output XHP70.3 emitter, in cool white.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

This is the first Cyansky light that I’ve reviewed since my recent return to reviewing. Cyansky is another in a line of new makers that has sprung up in recent years. I’ve heard good things about their models, so was curious to test out this new version of the P25.

According to the specs, the P25 v2.0 features the XHP70.3 emitter (HD version, from the appearance), and is rated for relatively high output in the 1×21700 class. What really caught my eye here though was the tactical tailcap switch, in addition to the electronic side switch. That’s not something you see commonly any more.

Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerCyansky
ModelP25 V2.0
EmitterXHP70.3
TintCool
Max Output (Lumens)3,600
Min Output (Lumens)5
Max Runtime80 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)10,800 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)208 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)98 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length145.4 mm
Head Diameter30 mm
Body Diameter24.4 mm
WaterproofIPX8 2m

Package Details




The P25 comes in fairly basic packaging, nothing too fancy in its appearance. Inside the box I found:

  • Cyansky P25 V2.0 flashlight, in green for my sample (also comes in red or black)
  • Cyansky-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Pocket clip
  • Holster with velcro closing flap
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a very decent package, and I am glad to see the holster included – very rare these days.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Imalent MS03, Convoy S21E, Skilhunt M300, Wurkkos WK15, Wurkkos TS22, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P25, Nitecore P20iX, Acebeam E70.










At 145mm, the P25 is one of the longest lights I’ve tested in the general-purpose 1×21700 class. This is in part due to the tactical forward clicky switch. This makes the light very suitable for tactical purposes, but it does mean you have to accept greater length. As someone with above-average sized hands with long fingers, I find the light comfortable to hold and use in either overhand or underhand grip – but some may find it long.

The tailcap physical forward clicky switch has a pleasantly firm action, with a solid click and predictable firm traverse. There are two raised tailcap guards that can serve as the lanyard attachment point. My sample is able to tailstand stably.

Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can easily lock-out this light by a simple twist of the tailcap.

There is a raised side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the head, with red and green LEDs underneath to show battery charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is very similar to a lot of modern lights.

As there is no in-light USB charging (i.e., you charge the cell directly), I expected waterproofness is excellent here.

There is no real knurling on the light, but there are a lot of cut-outs to help with grip. The slightly raised side switch helps limit the ability of the light to roll somewhat – but the pocket clip is particularly recommended in that regard.  Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II (presumed, given the colour range available). I would describe the finish as satin.

Inside, the light comes with a Cyansky-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with integrated USB-C charger and slightly raised button-top, along with a charge status led. There is a flat contact in the head of the light, along with a reverse polarity detection feature.

This is a solid and well-made light, with decent grip and handfeel. It is longer than most in this class, which is something to keep in mind.



The P25 comes with a XHP70.3 HD emitter, in cool white. The reflector is deeper than most and moderately textured (moderate orange peel, MOP).

As expected, there is some tint/colour shifting across the periphery of the beam, with a cool white hotspot surrounded by a yellowish spill except for a purplish shift near the edge of the periphery. This is a well-known issue with HD emitters of the XHP family. The textured reflector seems to be help even it out it somewhat though. There is an purplish anti-reflective coating on the lens, which is contributing to the edge effect that you are seeing in the desk beamshot above (scroll down for outdoor beamshots).

The bezel is flat aluminum. There is no scalloping to speak of, and the light can headstand stably.

User Interface

The P25 uses a fairly common general-purpose user interface, given the switch arrangement.

From OFF:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Momentary On in last memorized mode.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Nothing – but if you click the tail switch while holding down the side switch, the light will activate in Eco mode.
  • Side switch, single-click: Nothing.

From ON:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Nothing.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold (>1 sec): Switch to Strobe. Press-and-hold again to advance to SOS. Single-click at any time to return to constant-on modes.
  • Side switch, single-click: Steps up to the next constant-on output mode (in sequence, Lo > Med > High > Turbo).
  • Side switch, double-click: Nothing, simply advances two steps in output (i.e., this is not a short-cut to Turbo, as on some lights).

Mode memory:

Yes, for constant-on output modes, except Turbo. If turned off in Turbo, it will save as High.

Mode 1 Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press-and-hold the side switch while turning on at the tail switch.
  • Strobe mode: Press-and-hold the side switch when already On.
  • There doesn’t seem to be a shortcut to Turbo that I have found

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the relative battery voltage (lasts for ~3 secs):

  • Solid green: ~81-100% power remaining
  • Flashing green: ~51-80% power remaining
  • Solid red: ~21-50% power remaining
  • Flashing red: 0-20% power remaining

Low voltage warning:

Yes. When the battery is low, the power indicator flashes red 3 times per second, and the main LED light flashes 2 times every 3 minutes. When the battery voltage is lower than 3.0V, the flashlight will reduce the main LED to the Low mode.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but physically – you lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap.

Reviewer Comments:

This is a reasonable UI for a general-purpose light. It’s very similar the “general mode” of two-stage tactical lights, like the Sofirn SP35T. I would liked a shortcut to Turbo, though.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

Well, this is great to see – not only is there no sign of PWM, but there is not even any circuit noise on any level. It’s rare nowadays to see a current-controlled light without at least some high frequency circuit noise on some levels – well done Cyansky.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 15 Hz every ~2 secs or so. Very distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Beacon:

Sadly, no beacon mode on the P25.

Charging:

There is no integrated charger on the P25 light – it uses a 21700 cell with a built-in USB-C charger instead. There is an indicator LED on the battery that shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The Cyansky battery uses a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many (but not all) higher-end lights and batteries (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). The initial charging rate here is ~0.13A, which jumps to ~1.2A once the battery reaches 3.0V resting. I presume it continues to climb from there. This is a reasonable charging rate for the class, but not as high as some others.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

None. That is one of the nice things about a physical clicky switch, no standby current. 🙂 And you can always lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap, to prevent accidental activation.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

P25 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5530K, and a positive tint shift (+0.0138 Duv) to slightly greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 69.

These values are consistent with the performance of a cool white XHP70.3 HD emitter, and match my visual experience of this light. Note that there is a tint shift to more yellowish spill, with a purplish spillbeam edge, as is common on XHP HD emitters.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the P25 has a very clean beam profile, quite similar to my XHP70.2 HD-equipped Wurkkos TS22. Also, the minor tint-shift to purplish at the edge of the periphery is less noticeable than a number of other lights, like the Acebeam E70.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration seems to run higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the calibration standard was first established).

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

P25 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco51010---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Low506060---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Med200255250---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
High800940940---NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g5,5300.010369
Turbo3,6004,4504,30014,300 cd13,800 cd235 mNoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
Strobe1,600-----6-15 HzNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---
SOS200-----NoNo0.13 A1.20 ANo99 g171 g---

Well, this is nice to see – my P25 sample actually performs higher than the specs in my lightbox. Of course, I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights. But my NIST-calibrated luxmeter (which is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard) also reports greater throw than the specs. This is a good result.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

Another pleasant finding – fully flat-regulated output at all levels, with outstanding output/runtime efficiency. These results show a good boost circuit is being used, resulting in excellent performance across the board.

Another observation is that the Turbo mode (and step-down level) are very consistent with other top lights in this emitter class, like the Wurkkos TS22 and Acebeam E70. However, the Med mode (and to a lesser extent the Hi mode) is a little lower in output than most of the competition.

To better show you the step-down pattern on Turbo, here is an extended view of the first few minutes of the runtimes:

Interestingly, the P25 ramps down in output more slowly than most lights in this class – it takes over 6 minutes before you are down to the fully-regulated step-down level (which is a bit higher than the High level).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has a solid build, with a tactical forward clicky switch in the tail and a side electronic switch.Lacks a moonlight mode or a beacon/signalling mode.
Circuit is fully voltage-regulated, with excellent output/runtime efficiency.XHP70.3 HD cool white emitter produces high output, but no option for neutral/warm tint, high CRI, or greater throw.
The light has a serviceable user interface, comparable to other lights with this configuration.More expensive than competing lights.
Good range of output levels, actually exceeding rated specs.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The P25 from Cyansky is another example of a quality light from a new maker that has crossed my review desk.

Circuit performance is top-notch, with a highly efficient and well-regulated driver. This is something that I find to be quite variable among the new makers, but certainly speaks well here (and reflects that higher price point than most of the others). I’m also impressed to see this light exceed its reported specs – many makers over-promise and under-deliver, so it’s great to see the opposite here.

I like the implementation of the physical forward clicky switch – feel and function is good. The user interface is reasonable, and similar to other lights that have both a physical tailswitch and side electronic switch. That said, some competing lights feature a secondary “tactical” mode set as an option as well (and a shortcut to Turbo). As always, I would like to see an actual Moonlight mode as well (or at least something closer to it).

The physical build is quite solid and stable, if a touch long. There are some small aspects that detract a bit for me, such as the slippery finish with relative lack of knurling, flat aluminum bezel, and pretty basic clip. I would associate these with a more budget build typically. But the overall package is good, with the Cyansky-branded battery and holster.

It also comes with a modern high-output emitter, the XHP70.3 HD (cool white), which provides a lot of output and a smooth beam. That said, I would like to see some additional options, such as neutral white version (or high CRI model). For that matter, the HI edition of this emitter would produce more throw, and a cleaner beam with less chromatic aberrations.

At the end of the day, I found this to be a good light to handle and use. It’s really the combination of small touches to the build and UI that hold it back from top-of-the-line class for me. I hope the comparison results above will help you decide if it is right for you.

Acknowledgement

The P25 was supplied by Cyansky for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$100 USD (~$130 CDN).

Emisar D4K

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The D4K is a multi-emitter Hank light built for general purpose use, and running on a single 21700 battery. It features a wide range of customizable options, and uses the sophisticated Anduril user interface.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Upon my return to reviewing this year, it became very clear that “Hank lights” have a huge following. The individual models are known commercially under the Emisar or Noctigon name, and can be purchased directly from Hank’s site at intl-outdoor.com.

The thing to understand about the individual models is that there really isn’t an off-the-shelf or “stock” version of a Hank light. Rather, any given model (and there many, in different form factors) is available with a wide range of options that you can select from – including emitters, circuits, button colours, optics, etc.. So all lights are effectively custom-built, within the range of the form factor.

Hank also uses the latest implementations of the open-source Anduril user interface. Taken together, this all points to the fact that these lights are primarily intended for flashaholics who understand what they are looking for. It is basically an opportunity to get a largely custom light assembled and shipped relatively quickly and cheaply.

Having reviewed a number of Anduril-equipped lights from more mainstream makers, I was curious to see how it would perform in a light specifically designed to take advantage of it. I’ll get into the details of my selected build below, but this is probably the best opportunity to take maximal advantage of the Anduril feature set. Indeed, the creator of Anduril, Selene (aka ToyKeeper) specifically recommended the D4K and D1 to me as good models to start with.

First up in this review is the quad-emitter, 1×21700 Emisar D4K. Scroll down for my specific configuration. I’m excited to see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides (although in this case, specific to my custom specs). Scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerEmisar
ModelD4K
Emitter4xNichia 519A dome on
Tint4500 K CRI>90
Max Output (Lumens)3,800 (FET)
Min Output (Lumens)-
Max Runtime-
Max Beam Intensity (cd)-
Max Beam Distance (m)-
Constant Levels150
Flashing6
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)58 g
Length103 mm
Head Diameter28 mm
Body Diameter26.5 mm
WaterproofIP67 1m

Again, you can select other options here if you wish.

Package Details



The packaging for Hank’s lights is fairly basic – a cardboard box with some hand-written description of the features selected. Inside is some cut-out foam holding the light and your extras. Here is what I selected, reflected in the package above:

  • D4K in Dark Grey
  • Flat threaded switch ring
  • Cool White switch backlight
  • LEDs: 519A 4500K with dome on
  • Standard optic
  • Optional boost driver
  • Optional steel bezel (comes with one spare large o-ring)
  • Optional pocket clip

All lights also come with:

  • Wrist lanyard
  • 2 Spare body tube o-rings

Hank provides a lot of emitter and switch options. I choose the 519A 4500K dome-on to better match some of the other lights I’ve tested (there are plenty of de-domed options to consider as well). The cool white switch backlight can be used as a fairly bright “moonlight” (there are plenty of other options available here as well).

The boost driver was a key selection for me. I’ve tested many budget lights running Anduril that lack a boost driver (i.e., just running a basic linear driver, like FET). That translates into a fairly quick drop-down to a relatively low output level – with a “noisy” regulation pattern followed by a slow unregulated drop-off. With a good boost driver, you should be able to sustain better regulated runtimes, and at higher thermally sustainable brightness levels. However, the trade-off is typically lower dynamic range (i.e., lower highs and higher lows). Given how quickly (and how low) FET-based Anduril lights drop-off, I think that’s a reasonable trade-off for higher regulated outputs with a good boost driver. And for once I don’t mind risking the loss of the lowest modes, as the switch light (which can be independently controlled with Anduril) can serve as an effective “Moonlight” mode in its own right.

To see the difference between the D4K with boost driver and other Anduril-based lights with simple linear drivers, check out my discussion in the Runtimes section of this review.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Imalent MS03, Convoy S21E, Skilhunt M300, Wurkkos WK15, Wurkkos TS22, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P25, Nitecore P20iX, Acebeam E70.










To start, I opted for the stainless steel bezel because I find the these enhance the  structural stability of the light. Aluminum is a great material to hold (or work with), but it is rather soft – to better protect the head from falls, etc., I prefer stainless steel.

The stainless steel pocket clip is another great option, as the body tube allows placement near the head or the tail of the light (for stable head-up or head-down carry). I didn’t opt for the tailcap magnet, but that’s a good option if you are considering using the light as a work light.

The light is controlled by an electronic side switch in the head, with a somewhat transparent rubberized cover. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is good, with a firm click and typical traverse. There are a lot of options for the switch emitter LED, and I opted for cool white here (assuming it would produce max output). As you will see in my upcoming review of the D1, I opted for the multi-colour RGB LED option on that light.  Although set to off by default, you can configure the auxillary LEDs and the switch LEDs through Anduril to light up when a battery is connected (at two different intensities). See the user interface section below for more information.

I also went for the flat threaded switch ring, as I was worried the raised model might catch on clothing, etc. It is still easy to find the switch by feel, if you are leaving the standby indicator off.

The tailcap is perfectly flat, so the light is able to tailstand fairly stably. There is a small cut-out on the side for the simple wrist lanyard.

Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel – at both ends of the battery tube. Note there was no lubrication anywhere on the samples I received, so I recommend you add a good non-conducting lube for both the o-rings and the threads. I also always recommend you keep the light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap.

With the o-rings in place, I expect waterproofness to be good.

There is a stiff cylindrical spring in the head, along with a fairly thick conical tail spring. Resistance is high, so be careful about using longer cells in this light – you may dent the cell (or circuit board) if you use overly long cells. Note that Hank advises uprotected, flat top batteries only.

Unlike almost all the other lights I am reviewing these days, there is no built-in charger for batteries on the Emisar/Noctigon lights (or any bundled branded cells either). In keeping with the audience of flashlight enthusiasts, the assumption is that you have your own batteries and chargers on hand.

Knurling is not particularly aggressive – it is really more of a fine checkered or line pattern. It does feel a bit more grippy than most lights I’ve handled these days, which typically seem to be a bit smooth. Combined with the ridge detail, I would say overall grip is pretty good. Note that the light can roll, but the switch button cover helps limit this. Anodizing looks to be good quality (for presumed type II, give the colour range), with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte.



I opted for the standard optic, since I expect this should produce a decently floody beam with the quad-519A emitters (dome on). It doesn’t show up well in my desk shot above, but the beam is indeed very broad and floody. Scroll down for actual outdoor beamshots. There is a slight greenish-tint AR coating on the lens.

One interesting feature of the circuit board is that there are actually 8 additional secondary multi-colour RGB emitters built-in here. These can be turned on and controlled just like the auxillary switch LED in Anduril.

Here is what they look like on the high output AUX setting, in sequence:






You can configure the AUX LEDs to select an individual colour, or have it cycle through all colours, or reflect the battery voltage visually. You can turn these on at one of two intensities, or flash, or leave off. The AUX LEDs are linked to the side switch LEDs, so setting changes apply to both. But of course the RGB features are limited to the AUX emitters (unless you also get RGB under the switch too, in which case they would be synchronized).

In my handling, I find the High level for the AUX/Switch LEDs is surprisingly bright – and the Low level is surprisingly low (scroll down for specific output measures). In fact, the white LEDs on the side switch on Low are virtually impossible to see except in complete darkness, and the AUX LEDs are very dim (so dim that they don’t register in my lightbox). Here are a couple of pictures showing both switches in ambient room light on an overcast day, first on High and then Low:

As you can tell, it doesn’t even look like the switches are on in the Low setting. But here are a couple of pictures in the dark, again on Hi and then Lo:

It’s not exactly a perfect comparison, as I’m using my cell phone camera’s auto-adjust, but this gives you a general idea of the significant difference between the modes. Scroll down for current draws and output measures, where possible.

User Interface

As mentioned above, the D4K uses the open-source Anduril 2 user interface (UI). Anduril has two distinct UIs mode sets: Simple and Advanced. The labels are a bit misleading, as both are fairly sophisticated – it is just that the Advanced UI has a lot of extra options not available on the scaled-down Simple UI. Both UIs have the option for a discrete Stepped level mode, in addition to the continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode.

To switch from the default Simple UI to Advanced UI, you need to do 10 clicks from Off with a hold on the 10th click (10H), with 10 clicks (10C) to return to simple UI. Advanced UI has a lot more options available. It’s easier to show the UIs rather than explain them in words, so here is a helpful pic:

ui-diagram

You can also download a plain text-based manual from Anduril creator Toykeeper, or a more interactive one with version control here.

This implementation of Anduril 2 has eight discrete Stepped levels, which I’ve numbered in this review as L1 through L8 (with L1 being the lowest level, and L8 being Turbo).

According to the firmware Version Check, my D4K sample is model 0273. Full info is 2022-10-21-02-73 (version code is Year-Month-Day the firmware was compiled, followed by a 2-digit brand ID and 2-digit product ID).

Again, check the image and link above for more info, but here is a simplified description of the UI to get you started.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Turns On in lowest output, in either Ramping mode or Stepped mode depending on which mode is enabled (and which UI you are in)
  • Single-click (1C): Turns on in last memorized mode used (Ramping or Stepped)
  • Double-click (2C): Turns on to Turbo (aka the Ramping max output)
  • Triple-click (3C): Battery check (voltage read out a single time) and basic flashing/strobe modes.
  • Triple-click-and-hold (3H): Special strobe modes, but only when in Advanced UI (remembers last strobe mode used)
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode. In lockout mode you have different options available:
    • Press-and-hold (1H): Momentary Moonlight
    • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Momentary Low
    • 4 clicks (4C): Turns On in memorized output level
    • 4 clicks and hold (4H): Turns On in the lowest level
    • 5 clicks (5C): Turns On in Turbo
    • 10 clicks and hold (10H): Configure the lock timeout threshold (in Advanced UI only), allowing you to pre-set the timeout time of the lock.
  • 7 clicks (7C): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next mode. There are four modes you can switch between; constant low, blinking low, off, constant hi. Click 7 times again to advance to the next option, in sequence. The light auto-memorizes the last option you select.
  • 7 clicks-and-hold (7H): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next colour. The colours follow the sequence: Red, Yellow (Red+Green), Green, Cyan (Green+Blue), Blue, Purple (Blue+Red), White (Red+Green+Blue), Disco (fast random colors), Rainbow (cycles through all colors in order more slowly), and Voltage read-out (uses colour to display battery charge). See the video in the section above for what Rainbow looks like.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Ramps up (or Steps up, depending on the mode). Ramps/steps down if you do it again.
  • Single-click (1C): Turns Off
  • Double-click (2C): Jumps to Turbo
  • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Ramps down (or Steps down)
  • Triple-click (3C): Switch between Ramping and Stepped modes
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode (see above for options)

Mode memory:

Yes, the circuit memorizes the last constant On output level in either Ramping or Stepped modes.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, quite a few actually. The strobe/blinking modes are accessible from Off with a triple-click (3C) or triple-click-and-hold (3H), but in Advanced UI only. You can switch between strobe/blinking modes with 2 clicks (2C), in the following sequence (see testing results below to see what these look like):

Triple-click (3C):

  • Battery check
  • Temperature check
  • Beacon mode
  • SOS mode

Triple-click-and hold (3H):

  • Candle mode
  • Bike flasher mode
  • Party strobe mode
  • Tactical strobe mode
  • Lightning mode

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. In operation, the light drops in brightness in steps, and runs for an extended time at a very low level. Apparently it shuts off when the cell is ~2.8V (although I haven’t run it that long to confirm).

Lock-out mode:

Yes. In either Simple UI or Advanced UI, lockout is accessed by 4 clicks (4C) from On or Off (repeat to unlock). The lockout mode is unusual with Anduril, as it actually enables momentary operation in the minimum modes. There are other lockout modes available, as explained above. As always though, I recommend you physically lock out at the light at the tailcap, if you want to guarantee no accidental activation.

Temperature check and thermal calibration mode:

This is a little complicated (and beyond the needs of most users), so I will just refer you to the diagram from the manual above. With default settings, I find this light steps down fairly quickly due to heat (unsurprising, given default Anduril settings are conservative). I have not tried to reconfigure my sample. Note that if you get into any trouble (or wish to reset any custom configurations), you can easily reset the light to the factory defaults by 13 clicks-and-hold (13H).

Reviewer Comments:

Anduril is a sophisticated setup – a choice of Simple or Advanced UI, Stepped and Ramping modes, AUX LEDs, etc. Of course, you will never please everyone, and many may prefer a simpler interface. But as this light is directed toward flashaholics, I think it is a very good choice.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no sign of high frequency noise at any level (unlike many of the budget Anduril lights with simple FET drivers).

L1:
L1

L2:
L2

L7:
L7

L8:
L8

Nice to see the lack of circuit noise on this model.

Strobe Modes:

Note that for most of the strobe / flashing modes below, the actual frequency and intensity are both configurable. What I am showing below is the default speed and/or brightness setting. By pressing and holding the switch (1H or 2H) you can select the frequency. And in some cases, brightness is set from the last-used ramp level.

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon strobe is a single flash every ~1.8 secs (so, 0.55 Hz) by default.

SOS:
SOS

A fairly typical SOS mode.

Candle:
Candle

Candle strobe is a continuous flicker, of varying intensity (again, accurately simulating a candle).

Bike Strobe:
Bike

Bike strobe is a bit unusual. It is constant On at a lower level, with four brief flashes to max (over ~0.25 secs) every ~1 sec or so by default. It certainly is an attention grabber.

Party Strobe:
Party

Party strobe is a super-fast (and annoying) frequency of ~20 Hz by default.

Tactical Strobe:
Tactical

Tactical strobe is basically ~10 Hz, by default.

Lightning Strobe:
Lightning
Lightning
Lightning

I’ve shown three 10-sec cycles above, so you can a feel for the frequency and intensity of light flashes. Lightning strobe is a fairly realistic lightning simulation, with variable intensity and time between flashes.

Charging:

The Emisar D4K does not come with built-in charging. You will have look into stand-alone battery chargers.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

With the switch and AUX LEDs set to off, I measured the standby drain as fluctuating between 45 and 50 uA, but with a very brief jump to ~285uA every 3 secs or so. It’s hard to provide a good estimate, so I’ve just gone with ~50uA for now. For a 5000mAh cell, that would translate into over 11 years before the cell would be fully drained – which is extremely low, and not a concern. Regardless, I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap when not in use (which disables the standby drain).

Note that ToyKeeper tells me this current jump quirk is due to a bug in this firmware version. There is an updated firmware for this model that resolves the current jump, and lowers the overall standby drain by ~15 uA or so. You can kit to flash the firmware yourself, but I haven’t tried this yet.

With both the switch and AUX LEDs activated on the Low AUX output setting (i.e., barely visible, except in low light), I measured the combined drain as 105 uA with current firmware. For a 5000mAh cell, that would give you almost 5.5 years before the cell would be drained. This is similarly low enough to not be a concern, and could be useful as a signaling indicator, especially as a colourfull voltage readout (with the electronic lockout in place).

With both the switch and AUX LEDs activated on the High AUX output setting, I measured the combined drain as 3.58mA. For a 5000mAh cell, that would give you just under two months of continuous runtime on the higher AUX mode. While this is fine for the occasional use, it doesn’t make for a very effective or efficient Moonlight mode. Indeed, based on my experience, the low smooth Ramping minimum on the main emitters would likely have a slightly lower drain – but for much greater output with a better beam pattern.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

D4K on L6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~3950K, and a noticeably negative tint shift (-0.0048 Duv) to pinkish-red at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 95 (Hi CRI).

These results are very consistent with other neutral-warm Nichia 519A emitters I’ve tested.

Just out of curiosity, I thought I’d measure the AUX LEDs set to red.

AUX Red LEDs:

The simple Light Master lightmeter that I am using is not rated for monochromatic sources, but the reading above is very consistent with a dedicated red light – it is well off the blackbody radiation curve at the red end of the spectrum.

How about the cool white switch emitter?

Cool White side switch:

The cool white switch emitter is very bluish to my eyes, so the ~9350 CCT with slight negative tint shift is very consistent with my observation.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the D4K’s 4x Nichia 519A 4500K emitters perform similarly to the Acebeam E70 Mini’s 3x 519A 5000K emitters – but with a bit more output, and slightly warmer tint, as expected. Tint is pretty similar to my lower output Skillhunt M300’s 1x Nichia 144ART 4500K. In comparison, the the TS10’s 3xCSP 4000K emitters are considerably warmer in tint.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration seems to run higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established).

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

D4K Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Cool White Switch LED + AUX Red LEDs (High)-0.060.06---NoNo--3.6 mA65 g----
Smooth Ramp Min-1.11.1---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L1-1.51.5---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L2-1717---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L3-7474---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L4-220220---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L5-490480---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L6-860850---NoNo--~50 uA65 g-3,960-0.004895
L7-2,0502,000---NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
L83,800 (FET)3,1502,6506,320 cd5,720 cd151 mNoNo--~50 uA65 g----
Candle------NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
Bike Strobe------1 HzNo--~50 uA65 g----
Party Strobe------23 HzNo--~50 uA65 g----
Tactical Strobe------10.4 HzNo--~50 uA65 g----
Lightning------NoNo--~50 uA65 g----
Beacon------0.48 HzNo--~50 uA65 g----
SOS------NoNo--~50 uA65 g----

The effect of the optional boost driver shows up in the higher Ramping minimum output, compared to other lights that use simple linear FET drivers (e.g., Sofirn IF25A, Wurkkos TS30S Pro). Still, I’m actually quite impressed at the dynamic range of the main emitters on the D4K here – I had expected a lower max output, and even higher min output. Scroll down to see how it compares in terms of runtime patterns.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

The D4K didn’t come with its own battery, but I had a brand new LiitoKala cell (5000 mAh) that I used for the main runtimes below.

Max

Hi

Med

These results provide the opportunity to compare the optional boost driver on the D4K with a standard linear driver, as I alluded to in my build overview. Specifically, let’s take the example of the somewhat comparable multi-emitter Sofirn IF25A, which has a basic FET driver. The emitters are different, so you can’t directly compare overall output/runtime efficiency, but I think output levels and regulation patterns above are very revealing.

On Max, the IF25A starts out at a slighty higher initial output (~3400 lumens in my lightbox), but very quickly drops down to a “regulated” level of only ~700-800 lumens. It also shows a very “noisy” runtime pattern before dropping out of regulation. In contrast, the D4K with boost driver starts off at a slightly lower level (~3100 lumens in my lightbox) and drops off to a much higher regulated level of ~1300-1400 lumens. The regulated portion of the runtime also seems more stable on the D4K.

At the lower Hi levels, you can see the IF25A remains quite noisy at its regulated ~700-800 lumen level. But the D4K with boost driver is now perfectly flat-regulated at ~850 lumens.

At at the even lower Med levels, the IF25A shows a very typical direct-drive-like pattern of slow drop-off in output as the battery voltage drops (until some defined step-downs at the very end of the run). In contrast, the D4K with boost driver remains flat regulated at ~480 lumens until it steps down at the end of the run.

Again, you can’t exactly directly compare these two lights – you would really need to get the D4K without the boost driver to quantify the exact difference. But these results are exactly what I would have expected given their general similarities outside of the circuit/emitters. That is, you get about the twice the stably-regulated output level here, with only some loss of dynamic range. This speaks to the value of using a good boost driver. I wish other makers would offer this for their Anduril-based lights.

As always, the relatively low thermal mass here means that the light will step-down fairly quickly on the highest output levels. But I am impressed by how high the step-down level is, and how well regulated.

To better show this initial step-down pattern, I’ve done some addition runtimes with another new cell, a Vapcell F56 5600mAh 21700 battery.

The Liitokala and Vapcell batteries are differentiated below by their rated capacity – 5000mAh vs 5600mAh. Note as well that both are a good length (the Vapcell F56 in particular), so there is a risk of denting the cells when using in a compact light with dual springs like this.

Not surprisingly, there is not much difference between the cells over the first minutes. Effectively, the early runtimes above look equivalent for their initial step-down patterns.

Max-extended

This longer resolution is where you can see a difference. The 5600mAh Vapcell runtimes last longer, at a med-high level near the end of the runs. Harder to interpret is the slightly higher regulated output on the L7 run, and lower regulated output on the L8 max run, on the Vapcell. This may be just variation from one run to the next – but it could also be that the higher capacity Vapcell doesn’t respond as well to the initial high-drain on the max run.

I haven’t tried adjusting the thermal management settings (these are configurable with Anduril), but you should be able to slightly extend the initial output before step-down (at the expense of greater heat, of course).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Good physical build with a lot of possible customizations.No in-light charging feature.
With the optional boost driver, you get better regulated output and step-down levels than other Anduril lights running on simple linear FET drivers. Best implementation of Anduril I've seen yet.Due to small thermal mass, light will step-down quickly on Turbo - but maintains a higher brightness level here than other budget lights I've tested.
Even with the optional boost driver, there is a surprisingly wide dynamic range of output levels, but you do lose the <1 lumen moonlight levels.Only unprotected, flat top cells should be used in the light. Longer batteries are likely to get dented by the stiff springs in this small build.
Excellent beam profile and tint with my chosen dome-on Nichia 519A emitters.Body walls seem a bit thin, and threads come non-lubed.
RGB AUX LEDs are a nice feature, in addition to the switch options.Anduril interface can be intimidating.
Surprisingly affordable given it is basically a custom light (on a standardized form factor).

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The D4K with optional boost driver did not disappoint. This is exactly the performance I was hoping for with a better driver – a higher step-down level on max, and flatter regulation across the board. I was prepared for some loss of dynamic range, but it wasn’t as much as I feared – except for the loss of <1 lumen Moonlight modes on the main emitter. But you do have the switch LEDs and AUX LEDs which can serve as impromptu Moonlight modes. While not as efficient or effective as a true Moonlight on the main emitter, it is enough for me to not knock down the star rating. I strongly recommend you opt for the boost driver upgrade on this model.

The other customizable features are really a question of personal preference. Now that I know the switch backlight and front circuit board AUX RGB emitters can’t be independently controlled, I would probably opt for the RGB switch – in order the match the AUX RGB colours. But this is just a question of personal preference.

Although I think this light is worth 5 stars for the performance, I do miss seeing an integrated charging port (a minor issue given the target audience though). The physical build is also a little on the thin and lighter side for my tastes, but still seems robust enough.

Beam pattern was excellent with the standard optic and dome-on Nichia 519A emitters. I know a lot of people like dedomed emitters, but keep in mind that dedoming also tends to reduce the colour temperature significantly (i.e., these “4500K” temp emitters would wind up being a lot warmer after dedoming). Of course, that may be to your tastes, but I would suggest going with 5700K emitters if you plan to dedome.

As always, I find it a pleasure to work with the Anduril user interface. I know this UI is not to everyone’s tastes, but there is something to be said for the consistency of knowing what to expect when a light arrives. By definition, there are a lot of arbitrary choices that have to be made when building in an advanced interface (by that I mean that multiple clicks-and-holds will be required, and one selection is not necessarily better or worse than another). So this is where consistency can be a more highly prized feature – especially when you own a lot of lights.

Certainly a very positive experience for my first Hank light!

Acknowledgement

The D4K was purchased from intl-outdoor.com for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light in this configuration (without battery) retails for ~$67 USD (~$92 CDN) shipped.

Sofirn SP35T

3 comments

The SP35T is a tactical-style, general-purpose flashlight running on a single included 21700 battery. It features both tactical and general user interface options.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

The SP35T is a popular mid-range model from Sofirn. Equipped with the XHP50.2 emitter, it is rated for relatively high output in the 1×21700 class – similar to many competing models that I’ve recently tested from other makers. What really caught my eye here though was the tactical tailcap switch. That’s not something you see very often any more, outside of the larger “tactical” lights from Wurkkos and Sofirn.

Given the very interconnected (and sometimes interchangeable) nature of parts across Wurkkos and Sofirn lights, I thought the SP35T might be an interesting one to test. Could this be a “Goldilocks” model that strikes just the right balance between output and performance?

Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSofirn
ModelSP35T
EmitterXHP50.2
Tint
Max Output (Lumens)3,800
Min Output (Lumens)5
Max Runtime220 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)19,625 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)280 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS, Beacon
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)87 g
Length139.5 mm
Head Diameter28 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIPX8 2m

Package Details




Unlike the modern “cellphone box” style packaging of the newer models from Sofirn and Wurkkos, my SP35T came in the same basic retail packaging as my old IF25A. Oh well, it’s what inside the box that counts I guess. There I found:

  • Sofirn SP35T flashlight
  • Sofirn-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Pocket clip
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would like to see a holster included. FYI, Wurkkos sells an inexpensive holster (small size for ~$2 USD) that fits this light well.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Imalent MS03, Convoy S21E, Skilhunt M300, Wurkkos WK15, Wurkkos TS22, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P25, Nitecore P20iX, Acebeam E70.










At just under 140mm, the SP35T is one of the tallest general-purpose 1×21700 lights I’ve handled. This is the side effect of the tactical forward clicky switch (and dual spring design). This makes the light very suitable for tactical purposes, but it does mean you have to accept greater length. As someone with above-average sized hands with long fingers, I find the light comfortable to hold and use in either overhand or underhand grip – but some may find it a bit long.

The SP35T definitely shares a lot close design similarities to recent compact Wurkkos lights I’ve handled. This is not surprising, since these lights come off the same manufacturing production lines (i.e., Sofirn is the OEM manufacturer for Wurkkos).

The tailcap physical forward clicky switch does indeed look and feel identical to the Sofirn C8L that I recently reviewed. It has a pleasantly firm action, with a solid click and predictable firm traverse. It could just be sample variability, but I found the switch on my recent Wurkkos TD01 to be comparatively “soft and squishy” – I like the firmness of this SP35T sample. There are two raised tailcap guards that can serve as the lanyard attachment point. And just like my C8L, it is able to tailstand stably (my TD01 would not).

Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can easily lock-out this light by a simple twist of the tailcap.

As an aside, the whole tailcap assembly here won’t fit on the TD01 – but it does fit and work on my Wurkkos TS22 perfectly.

There is a raised side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the head, with red and green LEDs underneath to show charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is very similar to a lot of Wurkkos and Sofirn lights – it’s ok, but could be a bit tighter/firmer (i.e., hard switch covers always have some degree of play).

The side switch shines a bright red when charging the battery through the light’s USB-C charging port (green when fully charged). The port is located on the opposite side from the switch, under a rubber cover. The cover fits pretty well on the SP35T (just like the C8L) – not too too tight, not too loose. I expected waterproofness is reasonable.

There is a reasonable amount of knurling on the light – not super aggressive, but more than most, and certainly enough to help with grip. With the various other design elements and cut-outs, I would say grip is excellent. Thanks to included clip, the light will not roll on its side. Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte.

Inside, the light comes with a Sofirn-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a good size spring in the head, ensuring good contact.

This is a solid and well-designed light, with good grip and handfeel. It is a bit longer than most in this class, which is something to keep in mind.



The SP35T comes with a XHP50.2 HD emitter, in cool white tint apparently (I didn’t see any options to select a specific tint). The reflector is fairly shallow and heavily textured (heavy orange peel, HOP). There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

As expected, there is some tint/colour shifting across the periphery of the beam, with a cool white hotspot surrounded by a yellowish spill except for a purplish shift near the edge of the periphery. This is a well-known issue with HD emitters of the XHP family, especially apparent on the XHP50.2. The heavily textured reflector seems to be help even it out it somewhat – it’s not as pronounced as most that I’ve seen.

The bezel is crenelated black aluminum. Scalloping is not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably.

User Interface

The SP35T has a straightforward user interface, and one that is identical to the Sofirn C8L and Wurkkos TD01. Like many “tactical” lights, you have two sets of possible modes; Mode Group 1 for General use, and Mode Group 2 for Tactical use.

To switch between groups, press-and-hold the side switch for >3 secs when On.

Mode Group 1 (default) available levels: Eco, Low, Medium, High, Turbo, Strobe, SOS, and Beacon.

Mode Group 1, from OFF:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Momentary On in last memorized mode.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Tail switch, double-press: Turns On in last memorized mode and then jumps to Turbo (click to stay locked-on in Turbo). You have be very rapid on the double-press to jump to Turbo.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Nothing – but if you click the tail switch while holding down the side switch, the light will activate in Eco mode.
  • Side switch, single-click: Nothing.

Mode Group 1, from ON:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Nothing.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold (3 secs): Switch to Mode Group 2 (see below)
  • Side switch, single-click: Steps up to the next non-Turbo constant output mode (in sequence, Eco > Lo > Med > High).
  • Side switch, double-click: Turbo.
  • Side switch, triple-click: Strobe.
    • Side switch, double-click when in Strobe: Cycle through in sequence Strobe > SOS > Beacon (with no mode memory).

Mode 1, Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Mode 1 Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press and hold the side switch while turning on at the tail switch.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the side switch from On, or double-press the tail switch from Off.

Mode 2 available levels: Medium, Turbo, and Strobe.

Mode 2 functions basically as a stripped-down “tactical” version of Mode 1. The main differences are:

  • Single-click of the side switch from On only selects between Medium and Turbo now.
  • Double-click of the the tail or side switch goes to Strobe instead of Turbo.
  • There is no level memory now.

Otherwise, the two modes function the same way.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery voltage  (lasts for ~5 secs):

  • Solid green: ~70-100%
  • Flashing green: ~40-70%
  • Solid red: ~10-40%
  • Flashing red: 0-10%

Mode memory:

Yes, in the Mode Group 1 for non-Turbo constant output modes. There is no memory in the Mode Group 2.

Shortcuts:

  • Mode Group 1: Yes, for Eco, Turbo and Strobe (see above).
  • Mode Group 2: Yes, for Eco and Strobe (see above).

Low voltage warning:

Yes, the main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off at ~2.95V

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but physically – you lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap.

Reviewer Comments:

As with the C8L and TD01, I think this is a reasonable dual-mode UI for a tactical light, with a general mode set and a tactical mode set.

The multiple-press functionality of the tactical tailcap switch is a cute feature, if you feel you need a direct shortcut to Turbo from Off. With the firm clicky switch, I found I was able to do this reliably well. But for non-tactical types, I find doing a double-click of the side switch from On even easier.

I prefer General Mode Group, for its general usefulness and versatility. But I suppose “tactical” people will like the lack of mode memory in Tactical Mode Group 2.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is low frequency circuit noise on all levels, including Turbo, on the SP35T. It is definitely not PWM (note the simple sine wave below), but is at an an unusually low frequency of 167 Hz according to my soundcard oscilloscope. Shown below on a shorter timescale for the Hi mode.

Turbo

This is certainly different from the C8L, which was completely noise free. Even the TD01, which had circuit noise on all levels except Turbo, was at a more typical high frequency of ~5kHz.

Again, this is not a problem per se, as it was completely undetectable in practice (i.e., I couldn’t even see it when shinning on a fan or running water). But I do find it very unusual, and am not sure what to make of it. Typically, I find this doesn’t bode well for regulation or output/runtime efficiency.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 7 Hz and 11 Hz every ~1.5 secs or so. Very distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Beacon:

A single flash beacon once every 2 secs (0.5 Hz).

Charging:

The switch button shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The SP35T does not have a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). Mind you, neither does the C8L. The initial charging rate here is ~1.75A, which slowly rose to ~1.85A after a few minutes. I presume it continued to climb from there. This is a pretty high charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

None. That is one of the nice things about a physical clicky switch, no standby current. 🙂 And you can always lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap, to prevent accidental activation.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

SP35T on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5725K, and a negligible positive tint shift (+0.0103 Duv) to a very slight greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 58.

These values are consistent with the performance of a cool white XHP50.2 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light. Note that there is a tint shift to more yellowish spill, with purplish spillbeam edge, as is common on XHP50.2 HD emitters.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the SP35T has a narrower spill than most lights in this class, and somewhat lower output (although to be fair, three of the lights above are XHP70.2 lights). It is a very clean beam though, with little evidence of chromatic/tint aberrations.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration seems to run higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the calibration standard was first established).

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

SP35T Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco52.12.1---No164 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
Low1008080---No165 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
Med500385380---No166 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
High1,5001,0501,030---No167 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g5,7250.010358
Turbo3,8002,9502,85011,200 cd10,400 cd204 mNo168 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
Strobe3,800-----7.0-14.8 Hz168 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
SOS500-----No168 Hz1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---
Beacon3,800-----2.25 Hz-1.75 A1.85 ANo84 g153 g---

The SP35T clearly has very inflated specs across all its output levels, as measured in my lightbox. It is probably even worse than the numbers above suggest, as I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights. This finding is not entirely surprising, since the max output ratings in particular were not realistic for the XHP50.2 emitter.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports much lower beam intensity on Turbo (~25-30% less than spec, which is comparable to what my lightbox reports for overall output measures).

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Med

Hi

Max

According to reports online, the SP35T is supposed to have a buck driver – but I don’t see any evidence of that. Looking at the Med and Hi mode runtimes, it looks like a basic FET driver – and one that performs remarkably similar to the XHP50.2-equipped Wurkkos WK15 that I currently have on hand for testing. I presume these two lights are in fact using the same basic driver. This is a bit disappointing compared to the excellent flat voltage-regulated Wurkkos TS22.

There is one thing that is very different on the SP35T though – the wide oscillations in output on Turbo mode. Presuming this was due to the thermal sensor reacting to my cooling fan, I did a separate test without cooling, as shown in the lighter green above. It is clear that the cooling fan is having a big difference, as the light runs fairly consistently at the much lower level once step-down occurs without cooling. But it is interesting that the oscillations do eventually re-appear later in the run.

To show this more clearly, here are the two Turbo runtimes – with and without cooling – on a longer timeframe:

Max-extended

This is pretty unique in my experience. The step-down from Turbo level is to quite a bit lower level than usual (down to ~450 lumens in my lightbox, just slightly above Med level). Eventually, as the light cools, it starts to step up in output, with widening swings.

By the way, I know the swings under a cooling fan seem a lot more extreme above, but they are not so noticeable in real life. Below is an expanded runtime, to show you that a typical ramp up and back down under cooling actual takes about 7 mins. Here is how it looks in practice:

In the rising stage, you won’t notice the gradual shift over time, it is that slow. But on the ramp down, you are likely to notice the light is dimming fairly quickly.

All that to say, I think this light would benefit from a less sensitive thermal sensor – and a lower step-down level to start with (i.e., ~450 lumens is very low for a modern light).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has a solid build, with a tactical forward clicky switch in the tail and a side electronic switch.Circuit is not voltage-regulated, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes.
The light has a serviceable dual mode set user interface, identical to the Sofirn C8L and Wurkkos TD01.The circuit is also noticeably less efficient then other current-controlled lights with flat regulation.
Price is reasonably low.The turbo mode steps down to a much lower level than most lights, and oscillates considerably in output (likely due to a poorly calibrated thermal sensor).
XHP50.2 HD emitters produce well known tint shifts across the beam, with a yellowish spill and purplish spillbeam edge.
Output specifications are clearly very inflated.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The SP35T is certainly a solid light, with a very decent physical build and good user interface. The presence of a forward clicky tactical switch here is great, if you are a fan of that design. The user interface is certainly very serviceable, being identical to the C8L.

But as the pros and cons list above demonstrates, the circuit performance is disappointing here. Sure, it produces a reasonable amount of light for a reasonable amount of time – but its performance just doesn’t compare to the well-regulated and efficient C8L or Wurkkos TS22. But the SP35T doesn’t even compare well to other simple FET driver-based lights – due to the unusually low step-down level on Turbo, and the repeated oscillations back up to higher output as it cools.

Moreover, the rated output specs are way off on this light (as in, at least 25-30% below spec, if not more). Its rare nowadays to see such a large mismatch between published specs and actual performance. Since many make their purchasing decisions based on published specs, this is very disappointing.

The XHP50.2 HD emitter is known for a lot of tint/chromatic variation across its beam, and this example is no different. That said, I do find it a bit better than typical, likely due to the heavily textured reflector here. But to put it simply, I think this light would benefit from both an emitter and circuit upgrade.

At the end of the day, I like the physical build (and forward clicky tail switch). The user interface is also quite serviceable. But the circuit performance is sub-standard compared to Sofirn’s other offerings, and to other lights in this class – both in terms of overall output and output/runtime efficiency. And the odd behaviour on Turbo after step-down needs to be corrected. But it still is a reasonable amount of light for a reasonable amount of time, in absolute terms.

Acknowledgement

The SP35T was supplied by Sofirn for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$30 USD (~$40 CDN) on sale on the Sofirn website here.

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