Tag Archives: Wurkkos

Wurkkos TS10

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The TS10 is a popular multi-emitter, 1×14500 light from Wurkkos that features the sophisticated Anduril user interface. Powerful, compact, and available in a wide range of build options.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m working through my backlog of lights – these TS10 samples were obtained at the end of the summer last year.

The TS10 series has a lot of love out there from flashlight enthusiasts. Relatively tiny and inexpensive, they pack a powerful floody punch with 3x CSP LEDs (with their high >90 CRI) in either Cool white or Neutral white, along with secondary red colour emitters. The body comes in various build materials (aluminum, brass, titanium, copper) and colours (in the aluminum version). Oh, and it features the sophisticated Anduril user interface.

Given my positive experiences with Anduril, I thought I’d see how this model performs. Wurkkos agreed to send me the Cool white version (in silver aluminum finish), and I personally ordered a Warm white (black anodized finish) to compare.

Before I jump into testing, I should point out that there is a new V2 of the TS10 recently released. My understanding is that it has some small circuit tweaks but should perform comparably to the performance seen here. Note however the secondary red LEDs have been replaced with RGB, giving you greater functionality (i.e., Anduril works well with secondary RGB emitters, see my Emisar D1 and D4K reviews for an indication of what to expect).

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides. Scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

MakerWurkkosWurkkos
ModelTS10TS10
Emitter3xCSP LED >90 CRI3xCSP LED >90 CRI
Tint4000 K6000 K
Max Output (Lumens)1,4001,400
Min Output (Lumens)11
Max Runtime--
Max Beam Intensity (cd)4,150 cd4,150 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)130 m130 m
Constant Levels150150
Flashing66
Battery
Weight (w/o battery)32 g32 g
Weight (with battery)--
Length71.5 mm71.5 mm
Head Diameter21 mm21 mm
Body Diameter--
WaterproofIPX8 2mIPX8 2m

Package Details




The packaging for the TS10 is fairly basic, shown above for the “silvery” version of the coated aluminum. Inside the fairly simple cardboard box you will find:

  • TS10 flashlight
  • Wurkkos 14500 battery 900mAh (if ordered as part of the kit)
  • Single cell charger, with micro-USB cable (again, if ordered as part of the kit)
  • Bi-directional pocket clip
  • Wrist lanyard
  • 2 Spare body tube o-rings
  • Manual

The TS10 lacks any sort of in-light charging, but for an extra ~$2 or so you can get a Wurkkos 14500 battery and simple external charger. It’s nice to see the bundled pocket clip at this low price.

Build


From left to right: Mateminco 18350 (1200mAh), Mateminco SL02 (18350 body tube), Vapcell 18350 F14 (1400mAh), Emisar D1 (18350 body tube), Wurkkos 14500 (900mAh), Wurkkos TS10.















You have a lot of build options here, but I have opted for the basic aluminum construction. As you can see, the light has an inner aluminum sleeve that is anodized except for the end. This inner signal tube is what makes contact with the head ring, and allows the switch to control the light. I presume this same design is also true for the brass and titanium build options, but don’t know for certain.

The light is controlled by an electronic side switch in the tail, under a rubberized cover. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is surprisingly decent, with a firm click and typical traverse. The tailcap edge is flat, with the switch ever so slightly recessed – so the light is able to tailstand fairly stably. There is no cut-out for the simple wrist lanyard, so you would need to attach that to the clip if you wanted to use (I personally don’t see the value).

Tailcap threads are square-cut with good feel, although note that the light comes bare with no lube. Thanks to the anodized signal switch tube, you can technically lock out the switch (for activation) by a twist of the head – but this is not recommended (scroll down for a discussion on this point). With the o-rings in place, I expect waterproofness to be decent. Indeed, I accidentally left one of these in my jeans pocket when it went the through the washing machine – despite banging around the wash the whole cycle, the light came out fully dry inside with no water entry.

There is a spring in the head in the tail, along with a flat disc contact in the head. Small button top cells are recommend.

The bidirectional stainless steel pocket clip attaches near the tail, and allows for head-up or head-down carry. It also serves as effective anti-roll device, which is appreciated.

There are a couple of options for the emitter LED, Cool white (6000K) or Neutral white (4000K). I have both on hand to test, and I don’t think you can go wrong with either, given the relatively Hi CRI nature of the CSP emitters. The lights also currently come with three red auxillary LEDs that are easily controlled with the Anduril user interface (at two different intensities). See the user interface section below for more information.

Unlike most of the lights I am reviewing these days, there is no built-in charger on the TS10. But if you buy the light with the battery kit (for an extra ~$2) you get a 14500 battery and a stand-alone micro-USB charger suitable for the 14500 cell.

There is no knurling to speak of, and only fairly minor ridge detail. So I recommend you use the included pocket clip to help with grip. Anodizing looks to be good quality (for presumed type II, give the colour range), with no damage on my sample. I would describe the black finish as matte, and the “silvery” as sandblasted. Note that the “silvery” colour option no longer seems to be available on the Wurkkos store.







The basic optic gives you a nice even beam. It doesn’t show up well in my desk shots above, but the beam is indeed very broad and floody. Scroll down for actual outdoor beamshots. There is no sign of AR coating on the lens (not that I would expect any, with an optic).

One great feature of this light is the 3 additional secondary red emitters built-in here. These can be turned on and controlled by the auxillary LED settings in Anduril.

Here is what they look like on the high and low output AUX settings:




In my handling, I find the High level for the AUX red LEDs is surprisingly bright – and the Low level is very low (scroll down for specific output measures).

And again, note that the new V2 of the TS10 currently shipping comes with RGB LEDs for greater functionality.

User Interface

As mentioned above, the TS10 uses the open-source Anduril 2 user interface (UI). Anduril has two distinct UIs mode sets: Simple and Advanced. The labels are a bit misleading, as both are fairly sophisticated – it is just that the Advanced UI has a lot of extra options not available on the scaled-down Simple UI. Both UIs have the option for a discrete Stepped level mode, in addition to the continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode.

To switch from the default Simple UI to Advanced UI, you need to do 10 clicks from Off with a hold on the 10th click (10H), with 10 clicks (10C) to return to simple UI. Advanced UI has a lot more options available. It’s easier to show the UIs rather than explain them in words, so here is a helpful pic:

ui-diagram

You can also download a plain text-based manual from Anduril creator Toykeeper, or a more interactive one with version control here.

This implementation of Anduril 2 has eight discrete Stepped levels, which I’ve numbered in this review as H1 through H8 (with H1 being the lowest level, and H8 being Turbo).

According to the firmware Version Check, my TS10 Neutral white sample is model 0714. Full info is 2022-07-19-07-14 (version code is Year-Month-Day the firmware was compiled, followed by a 2-digit brand ID and 2-digit product ID).

Again, check the image and link above for more info, but here is a simplified description of the UI to get you started.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Turns On in lowest output, in either Ramping mode or Stepped mode depending on which mode is enabled (and which UI you are in)
  • Single-click (1C): Turns on in last memorized mode used (Ramping or Stepped)
  • Double-click (2C): Turns on to Turbo (aka the Ramping max output)
  • Triple-click (3C): Battery check (voltage read out a single time) and basic flashing/strobe modes.
  • Triple-click-and-hold (3H): Special strobe modes, but only when in Advanced UI (remembers last strobe mode used)
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode. In lockout mode you have different options available:
    • Press-and-hold (1H): Momentary Moonlight
    • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Momentary Low
    • 4 clicks (4C): Turns On in memorized output level
    • 4 clicks and hold (4H): Turns On in the lowest level
    • 5 clicks (5C): Turns On in Turbo
    • 10 clicks and hold (10H): Configure the lock timeout threshold (in Advanced UI only), allowing you to pre-set the timeout time of the lock.
  • 7 clicks (7C): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next mode. There are four modes you can switch between; constant low, blinking low, off, constant hi. Click 7 times again to advance to the next option, in sequence. The light auto-memorizes the last option you select.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Ramps up (or Steps up, depending on the mode). Ramps/steps down if you do it again.
  • Single-click (1C): Turns Off
  • Double-click (2C): Jumps to Turbo
  • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Ramps down (or Steps down)
  • Triple-click (3C): Switch between Ramping and Stepped modes
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode (see above for options)

Mode memory:

Yes, the circuit memorizes the last constant On output level in either Ramping or Stepped modes.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, quite a few actually. The strobe/blinking modes are accessible from Off with a triple-click (3C) or triple-click-and-hold (3H), but in Advanced UI only. You can switch between strobe/blinking modes with 2 clicks (2C), in the following sequence (see testing results below to see what these look like):

Triple-click (3C):

  • Battery check
  • Temperature check
  • Beacon mode
  • SOS mode

Triple-click-and hold (3H):

  • Candle mode
  • Bike flasher mode
  • Party strobe mode
  • Tactical strobe mode
  • Lightning mode

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. In operation, the light drops in brightness in steps, and runs for an extended time at a very low level. Apparently it shuts off when the cell is ~2.8V (although I haven’t run it that long to confirm).

Lock-out mode:

Yes. In either Simple UI or Advanced UI, lockout is accessed by 4 clicks (4C) from On or Off (repeat to unlock). The lockout mode is unusual with Anduril, as it actually enables momentary operation in the minimum modes (see above).

Normally, I recommend you physically lock the switch out at the head, if you want to guarantee no accidental activation. However, there are reports that this causes issues for the circuit on Anduril lights with inner signal tubes. Specifically, bad data may be relayed to the circuit during reactivations (including inadvertently producing factory resets). As such, I recommend you store the lights either in electronic lockout mode, or with the batteries removed.

Factory reset:

There are two ways to do a factory reset of an Anduril light. This can be necessary sometimes if you get into trouble when programming, or if circuit glitches crop up. The easier method to reset the light is to loosen the head (breaking contact with the inner signal tube), press and hold the button down, and tighten the head while not letting go of the button. The light will flicker a bit and then rapidly ramp up – at the end of which it will make a very bright flash. Keep holding the button until it reaches the end of that bright flash. If you release it too early, the light will not reset.

If you find that method doesn’t work, you can use the standard 13H method shown in the diagram above. With the head connected, holding on the 13th rapid click will do the same as above – the light will flicker, ramp, and then bright flash. Personally, I find it a bit tricky to accurately count out 13 clicks and hold without hesitation on the last one. But this will do the job as well, if you can get the timing down.

Temperature check and thermal calibration mode:

This is a little complicated (and beyond the needs of most users), so I will just refer you to the diagram from the manual above. With default settings, I find this light steps down fairly quickly due to heat (unsurprising, given default Anduril settings are conservative and the thermal mass is small here). I have not tried to reconfigure my sample, since I find it plenty toasty as is. Note that if you get into any trouble (or wish to reset any custom configurations), you can easily reset the light to the factory defaults by 13 clicks-and-hold (13H).

Reviewer Comments:

Anduril is a sophisticated setup – a choice of Simple or Advanced UI, Stepped and Ramping modes, AUX LED control, etc. Of course, you will never please everyone, and I know many may prefer a simpler interface. But this light can easily be configured to run quite simply (i.e., you don’t need to use the all the features if you don’t want to).

Note that I found myself needing to reset these lights a few times in my testing, due to little quirks or bugs that cropped up (e.g., suddenly not switching between smooth or ramping, or not letting me reconfigure the AUX LEDs, etc.). These issues can happen in any Anduril light, but it seemed to me that this model was more prone to it. It may have to do with the known issue of physically locking out light at the head, which I did periodically during testing (this is an issue on Anduril lights with inner signal tubes). In any case, any issues that crop up can easily be fixed with a circuit reset (followed by reapplying whatever customizations you prefer).

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. But as is common for budget lights with simple FET drivers running Anduril, there is non-visually detectable circuit noise at all output levels except max:

H1:
L1

H2:
L2

H3:
L3

H4:
L4

H5:
L5

H6:
L6

H7:
L7

H8:
L8

Again, this ~20 kHz noise is NOT visible to the eye, and is not a problem. It is typically a sign of a fairly basic driver though (e.g., I saw a similar pattern on the WK15 I recently reviewed). Interestingly, it disappears on the highest level.

Strobe Modes:

Note that for most of the strobe / flashing modes below, the actual frequency and intensity are both configurable. What I am showing below is the default speed and/or brightness setting. By pressing and holding the switch (1H or 2H) you can select the frequency. And in some cases, brightness is set from the last-used ramp level.

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon strobe is a single flash every ~2.3 secs (so, <0.5 Hz) by default.

SOS:
SOS

A fairly typical SOS mode.

Candle:
Candle

Candle strobe is a continuous flicker, of varying intensity (again, accurately simulating a candle).

Bike Strobe:
Bike

Bike strobe is a bit unusual with Anduril. It is constant On at a lower level, with four brief flashes to max (over ~0.25 secs) every ~1 sec or so by default. It certainly is an attention grabber.

Party Strobe:
Party

Party strobe is a super-fast (and annoying) frequency of ~20 Hz by default.

Tactical Strobe:
Tactical
Tactical
Tactical

Tactical strobe is typically ~10 Hz by default, although I found my sample fluctuated between ~8.7-8.9 Hz.

Lightning Strobe:
Lightning
Lightning
Lightning

I’ve shown three 10-sec cycles above, so you can a feel for the frequency and intensity of light flashes. Lightning strobe is a fairly realistic lightning simulation, with variable intensity and time between flashes.

Charging:


The included micro-USB charger uses a single-stage charging mode of 1.0A. This is a high charging rate for a 14500 cell, and will charge it relatively quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

NOTE: My original drain measures were off by a significant amount. I have corrected them below.

With the switch disconnected and AUX LEDs set to off, I measured the standby drain as ~4 uA on both samples. For a 900mAh cell, that would translate into a little over 25 years before the cell would be fully drained (which, is completely negligible and not a concern).

With the AUX LEDs activated on the very dim Low setting, I measured the drain as 145 uA on both samples. For a 900mAh cell, that would give you just over 8.5 months before the cell would be drained. This is reasonable.

With the AUX LEDs activated on the very bright High setting, I measured a large jump to 13.5 mA and 13.2 mA on my two samples. Taking the average, that would fully drain the cell in about 67 hours (so, just under 3 days). While this is fine for the occasional use, it doesn’t make for a very effective or efficient Moonlight mode. Indeed, based on my experience, the low smooth Ramping minimum on the main emitters would likely have a much lower drain – with greater output with a better beam pattern.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS10 Cool white on H6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5770K, and a completely negligible tint shift (+0.0002 Duv). For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 94 (Hi CRI).

These results are very consistent with other Cool white CSP emitters I’ve tested.

TS10 Neutral white on H6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~3800K, and a slightly noticeably negative tint shift (-0.0038 Duv) to pinkish-red at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 97 (Hi CRI).

These results are very consistent with other neutral-warm CSP emitters I’ve tested.

Just out of curiosity, I thought I’d measure the AUX red LEDs.

TS10 AUX Red LEDs on Hi:

The simple Light Master lightmeter that I am using is not rated for monochromatic sources, but the reading above is very consistent with a dedicated red light – it is well off the blackbody radiation curve at the red end of the spectrum.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the TS10s produce a relatively floody beam, with tint to match the expected colour temperatures.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS10 Testing Results

TintModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
4000 KRed AUX Leds (Low)-<0.001<0.001---NoNo1.0 A1.0 A145 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KRed AUX Leds (High)-0.190.19---NoNo1.0 A1.0 A13.5 mA29 g50 g---
4000 KSmooth Ramp Min-0.0150.015---NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH110.210.21---NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH2103.23.2---No3.9 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH3501212---No6.4 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH41304141---No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH5300110105---No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH6580260200---No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g3,805-0.003897
4000 KH7900600550---No19.8 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KH81,4001,9505003,980 cd3,380 cd116 mNoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KCandle------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KBike Strobe------1.1 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KParty Strobe------22 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KTactical Strobe------8.8 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KLightning------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KBeacon------1.7 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
4000 KSOS------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KRed AUX Leds (Low)-NoNo1.0 A1.0 A145 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KRed AUX Leds (High)-NoNo1.0 A1.0 A13.2 mA29 g50 g---
6000 KSmooth Ramp Min-NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH110.270.27NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH2103.93.9No3.9 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH3501515No6.4 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH41304747No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH5300125120No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KH6580270265No19.7 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g
6000 KH7900610580No19.8 kHz1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g5,7700.000294
6000 KH81,4002,0007504,050 cd3,330 cd115 mNoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KCandle------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KBike Strobe------1.1 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KParty Strobe------22 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KTactical Strobe------8.8 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KLightning------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KBeacon------1.7 HzNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---
6000 KSOS------NoNo1.0 A1.0 A~4 uA29 g50 g---

There is a good dynamic range on the Stepped levels (you can go even lower on the Ramping minimum), consistent with other Anduril lights that use simple linear FET drivers (e.g., Sofirn IF25A, Wurkkos TS30S Pro). Scroll down to see how these TS10 lights perform in terms of runtime.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Max

Hi

Med

Lo

I don’t have a lot of 14500 lights to compare to, but the overall efficiency of these TS10 lights seems pretty good for the rated battery capacity.

It’s true they are not fully flat voltage-regulated at the highest Stepped levels (i.e., H6-H8), but they are at lower outputs. And even at the highest outputs, the variable pattern of output over time is still gradual enough that you wouldn’t see it in practice.

To illustrate, here is how the the first few minutes look on the max output:

Max-extended

Max output levels are consistent with other small lights, no real surprises here. Of course heat will be limiting on the max level, so I recommend you run the light on H1-H7 for best performance.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Very floody and high output beam for such a tiny light. Simple linear FET circuit, so light lack flat voltage-regulation on the higher output modes.
Very wide dynamic range of outputs, including true moonlight and two auxillary red output modesMax output drops rapidly on max output, due to low thermal mass.
Sophisticated user interface with AndurilAnduril user interface can be complicated for some, but it can be set to run in basic mode.
Hi CRI white LED emitters, in cool or neutral white colour temperature.Trying to physically lock out the light can lead to circuit glitches, due to presumed switch interactions with the inner signal tube during reconnection.
Tailcap electronic clicky switch included, despite small size.Larger hands may find it hard to operate, given tiny size.
Very low standby drain.
Variety of build materials available.
Good bidirectional clip included, despite budget cost

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

There is a lot to love with this little light. It’s a small but impressive build (and there are multiple build options available). It has a great high CRI floody beam (in two possible colour temperatures) with auxillary red emitters. And it’s surprising to see a tail switch in a light this small.

It features the sophisticated Anduril user interface, which I am a fan of given all the included features, options and customizations. I realize that it may be more complex than some would want, but you can always run it as a very basic light if you don’t want to use the multiple click options. Note that the use of an electronic switch with an inner signal tube in Anduril lights can lead to some circuit quirks if you try to physically lock out the head, so its best to rely on electronic lockout. It is also good to know how to perform a factory reset (see my User Interface section above for a discussion).

One of nice things about Anduril is that even bundled with a very simple driver, you get an impressive dynamic range of outputs (from ultra-low moonlight to super high output). You can easily choose between visually-linear ramping outputs or stepped levels. Of course, given the small thermal mass and simple circuit, max output will drop off quickly. You also won’t see the flat voltage-stabilization at the higher output levels.

But these are minor points, especially given the ridiculously low price you can find these lights at. I don’t usually factor price into my reviews, but it is remarkable how much you get here for so little. The range of build options is also very impressive. It’s a great all-around package with the included 14500 cell (and external battery charger).

I can see why people like to buy multiple versions of this light. It is super fun to play with, and incredibly versatile and powerful. And the addition of RGB AUX LEDs to the revised V2 of this light further enhances its versatility. Highly recommended.

Acknowledgement

The TS10 Cool white was received by Wurkkos for review, and the TS10 Neutral white was personally purchased. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light with an included 14500 cell and charger retails for ~$20 USD (~$27 CDN) shipped at the Wurkkos website.

Wurkkos WK15

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The WK15 is a relatively compact, inexpensive, general-purpose flashlight running on a single 21700 battery. It features the common Cree XHP50.2 emitter.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I am still working through my backlog of lights – this WK15 sample was received late last summer.

I’ve reviewed a number of general purpose 1×21700 lights by Wurkkos and Sofirn, and have typically been very impressed with the performance and build for the price. I noticed a general lack of reviews on the WK15, which seems to be a particularly inexpensive model in this space. Wurkkos agreed to send me a sample to review.

Equipped with the popular XHP50.2 emitter, available in both the neutral white 5000K and cool white 6000K colour temperatures (I opted for 5000K). The WK15 rated specs are very similar to many competing models in this space, despite its relatively compact size. Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelWK15
EmitterXHP50.2
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)3,000
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime500 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)11,892 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)218 m
Constant Levels6
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)70 g
Length113 mm
Head Diameter27.8 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68

Package Details




Unlike the modern style packaging of the newer higher-end models from Sofirn and Wurkkos, the WK15 comes in fairly basic packaging. Inside I found:

  • Wurkkos WK15 flashlight
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would like to see a holster included. FYI, Wurkkos sells an inexpensive holster (small size for ~$2 USD) that fits this light.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Imalent MS03, Convoy S21E, Skilhunt M300, Wurkkos WK15, Wurkkos TS22, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P25, Nitecore P20iX, Acebeam E70.








The WK15 is a very compact 1×21700 light – its definitely on the smaller side of the lights I’ve tested in this class. It vaguely reminds me of the Fenix E35, although in a more basic build.

The tailcap is flat, with a lanyard cut-out area. It is able to tailstand stably. Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can easily lock-out this light by a simple twist of the tailcap.

The electronic switch on the side of the head has red and green LEDs underneath to show charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is very similar to a lot of Wurkkos and Sofirn lights – it’s ok, but could be a bit tighter/firmer (i.e., hard switch covers always have some degree of play).

The light’s USB-C charging port is located on the opposite side from the switch, under a rubber cover. The cover fits pretty well – not too too tight, not too loose. I expected waterproofness is reasonable (i.e., more splashable than watertight).

There is a lot of traditional knurling on the light – not super aggressive, but more than most, producing excellent grip. Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as matte. Thanks to included bi-directional clip, the light will not roll on its side. The clip attaches firmly, and is good for both bezel up and down carry.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top.

This is a solid little light, with good grip and handfeel. It does seem a bit more budget than the rest of the Wurrkos or Sofirn line – but that is in keeping with its lower price point.


The WK15 comes with a XHP50.2 HD emitter, in neutral or cool white tint (neutral on my sample). The reflector is fairly shallow and well textured (moderate orange peel, MOP). There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

As expected, there is noticeable tint/colour shifting across the periphery of the beam, with a warmer yellowish white hotspot surrounded by a coolish spill and purplish shift near the edge of the periphery. This is a well-known issue with HD emitters of the XHP family, particularly obvious on the XHP50.2. The textured reflector normally helps to even it out, but I do find my sample is rather noticeable.

The bezel is flat black aluminum. So you can headstand stably, but you can’t tell if the light is on in that orientation.

User Interface

The WK15 has a straightforward user interface, and one that is similar to many basic Sofirn and Wurkkos lights.

Mode levels: Moonlight, Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, and Strobe

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Moonlight mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode (only Eco, Lo, Med and Hi can be memorized).
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Activate Lock-out mode. Four clicks to unlock.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle between Eco > Lo > Med > Hi (in sequence).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Single click jumps you back to last memorized mode.
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.Single click jumps you back to last memorized mode.

Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Moonlight, non-Turbo constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Moonlight mode: Press-and-hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off.

Low voltage warning:

Not that I noticed.

Lockout mode:

Yes, you can physically lock out the light at the tailcap. There is an electronic lockout as well that you can trigger manually (i.e., no auto-lockout).

Battery indicator:

Not that I noticed.

Reviewer Comments:

A very serviceable and standard interface – easy to remember and use.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Moonlight:
Moonlight

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is high frequency circuit noise on all levels above Moonlight. This is common on a lot of inexpensive lights, and is not necessarily a concern as it is not visually detectable. I measured the frequency as just over 21 kHz on all modes from Eco through Turbo (note the last trace above shows an inaccurate lower value – the auto measure feature in the oscilloscope software sometimes gets fooled by slower harmonics).

Strobe:

Strobe is a constant 14 Hz.

Charging:

The switch button shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The WK15 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many good quality modern lights (i.e., where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged). I’m actually surprised to see it here, given the budget price. This is also a very high charging rate for the class, and will charge a 21700 cell quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Yes, due to the electronic switch. I measured it at 1.7 mA, which is moderately high. For a 5000mAh cell, that would mean you would deplete the battery is about 4 months. But you can easily cut this current by a simple twist of the tailcap.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

WK15 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4800K, and a slight positive tint shift (+0.0103 Duv) to slight greenish-yellow at this temperature. I wasn’t able to get a reliable CRI (Ra) measure.

These values are consistent with the performance of a neutral white XHP50.2 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light. Note that there is a noticeable tint shift from yellowish hotspot to cooler white spill with purplish spillbeam edge, which is common to 50.2 HD emitters.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the WK15 has a pretty traditional beam for this class.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

WK15 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Moon11.21.2---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Eco101010---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Low100150150---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Med550590585---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g4,8150.0113-
High1,5001,5501,550---No21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Turbo3,0003,5003,30013,500 cd12,100 cd220 mNo1.24 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---
Strobe3,000-----14.2 Hz21.25 kHz0.17 A2.15 A1.70 mA71 g140 g---

My WK15 sample very closely matches the reported specs for this light. I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights, however.

That said, my NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports very consistent peak intensity throw to reported specs.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Med

Hi

Max

Consistent with the budget price, it looks like the WK15 is using a simple linear FET driver. Performance is extremely consistent with the Sofirn SP35T – basically, a direct-drive-like pattern where the battery resistance is ultimately regulating output over time. Sadly, there is no flat voltage-regulated performance here, unlike the higher-end TS22 for example.

All that said, performance is not bad – it is just very basic. Note however that both the Hi mode as well as the Turbo mode step down rather quickly, compared to some other lights. But the flip-side of that is the light certainly lasts for a reasonably long amount of time.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light has a solid build, with an electronic switch.Circuit is not voltage-regulated, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes.
The light has a serviceable basic user interface, easy to remember and use.The circuit is also noticeably less efficient than other current-controlled lights with flat regulation.
Price is reasonably low.XHP50.2 HD emitters produce well known tint shifts across the beam, with a yellowish hotspot, cool white spill, and purplish spillbeam edge.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The WK15 is a compact but solid light, with a decent physical build and good (if basic) user interface. You could do a lot worse for the price!

But as described above, the circuit performance is disappointing here. Similar to the Sofirn SP35T, you get a reasonable amount of light for a reasonable amount of time. But its performance just doesn’t compare to the fully-regulated competition, such as the efficient (but more expensive) TS22 in comparison. That said, the published output specs seem pretty accurate for this model, with a good range of output levels.

The XHP50.2 HD emitter is known for a lot of tint/chromatic variation across its beam, and this example is no different. I can’t specifically fault this model in that regard, but my WK15 sample is particularly noticeable.

Taken together, I find these drawbacks limit this light to a maximum 3.5 star rating on my subjective scale. This is still quite decent, and better than some equivalent models at this price point. But there are couple of others I might recommend over this. That said if you like a straightforward interface and grippy finish, this light does fit the bill for the budget class.

Acknowledgement

The WK15 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$25 USD (~$35 CDN) with battery included on the Wurkkos website here.

Wurkkos TS30S Pro

4 comments

The TS30S Pro is a high-output thrower light, running on an included single 21700 battery. It also features the sophisticated Anduril user interface.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

The TS30S Pro is a larger light coming out of Wurkkos – a high-output thrower running on 1×21700. Significantly, it features the Luminus SBT90.2, which is a large but low profile emitter. This means you can generate super high output (i.e., >5000 lumens) while still maintaining great throw when coupled with a large, focused reflector. It also runs at 3V, meaning it can work with a basic FET driver – which is consistent with a lot of the budget lights coming from Wurkkos.

This setup means that Wurkkos was also able to easily implement Anduril, the powerful open-source user interface, giving you a lot of options to play with. Keep in mind though that super-high output is going to require a lot of current (and generate a lot of heat), so you should expect fairly rapid thermal step-down (especially with the default conservative temperature settings in Anduril, although these are user-adjustable).

I’ve had a number of requests to review this light, so let’s see how it does in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelTS30S Pro
EmitterSBT90.2
Tint5700 K
Max Output (Lumens)6,000
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime40 days
Max Beam Intensity (cd)295,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)1086 m
Constant Levels8
Flashing-
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)265 g
Length157.2 mm
Head Diameter61 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68 <2m

Package Details






Another example of the nice new packaging for the higher-end lights from Wurkkos (and Sofirn, which share a common manufacturing plant). The hard-sided box comes with a lot of printed specs on the sleeve, and a clear separation of items and components inside thanks to the cut-out foam. Inside the box, I found:

  • Wurkkos TS30S Pro flashlight
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would like to see a holster included. FYI, none of inexpensive holsters that Wurkkos sells fit this light – it’s too large for any of their current offerings.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F, Sofirn C8L, Wurkkos TS30S Pro, Wurkkos TD01, Acebeam L19 V2.0, Acebeam P17.









The Wurkkos TS30S Pro is a substantial light for this class, with an exceptionally large head (thanks to a large deep reflector). It does make the light somewhat top-heavy, but not unreasonably so. It is definitely a higher-end “budget” light – keep in mind that over half the cost of the light comes from the emitter alone.

The light is controlled by an electronic side switch in the head, with a rubberized cover. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is actually a bit better than most Wurkkos and Sofirn lights, which typically have a hard cover that has a bit too much play. There are multi-colour RGB LEDs under the switch. Although set to off by default, you can configure them to light up different colours when a battery is connected (which can make for a great coloured “moonlight” mode). See the user interface section below for more information. There is also a separate set of orange LEDs under the switch to show the charge status (scroll down to the Charging Section for more info).

There are two slightly raised tailcap guards that can serve as the lanyard attachment point. The light is able to tailstand fairly stably (although it is top-heavy).

Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily on the TS30S Pro by a simple twist of the tailcap.

The side switch flashes orange when charging the battery through the light’s USB-C charging port (solid orange when fully charged). The port is located on the opposite side from the switch, under a rubber cover. The cover fits pretty well – not too too tight, not too loose – just like my recent TD01. I expected waterproofness is reasonable.

There is no actual knurling on the light, but large raised concentric rings around the body tube help with grip (pattern is similar to the TD01, but with greater thickness to the horizontal cutouts). When combined with the head and tailcap ridge detail, I would say overall grip is pretty good. Note that the light can roll fairly easily, although there are some mild cut-outs on the head to help reduce this. Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a a slightly raised contact point in the head, so flat-top cells should work just fine.





The TS30S Pro has a large and deep reflector, to help ensure excellent throw with the low-profile SBT90.2 emitter.

The bezel is stainless steel (dull finish) with mild crenelations – not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably. There is a mild purplish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens.

Here are a couple of white wall beamshots, to give you an idea of how focused it is:


It’s hard to see above, but there are quite a few “daisy flower-like” artifacts in the corona around the hospot. If you look closely you’ll notice the corona is a bit irregular (i.e., stretches out more to the left and top). This is clearly visible on a white wall, but they are not at all noticeable in real life (scroll down for outdoor beamshots).

As mentioned above, in addition to the amber charging indicator LED under the switch, there are also RGB LEDs. This is fully programmable with the Anduril user interface (described below), allowing you to control the presence, intensity and colour of the optional standby indicator under the switch. This is more than just a cute novelty feature – effectively, it gives you a coloured Moonlight mode if you turn it on (i.e., you can “activate” this Moonlight mode by using the tailcap as a twisty, making or breaking battery contact).

Here is a video of the “Rainbow” indicator switch mode, where it continuously cycles through all the possible switch colours slowly. You can similarly select any of the colours shown as your constant switch indicator (scroll down for a description of the UI controls).

User Interface

The TS30S Pro uses the open-source Anduril 2 user interface (UI). Anduril has two distinct UIs mode sets: Simple and Advanced. The labels are a bit misleading, as both are fairly sophisticated – it is just that the Advanced UI has a lot of extra options not available on the scaled-down Simple UI. Advanced UI also has an option for a discrete Stepped level mode, in addition to the continuously-variable smooth Ramping mode (which is the only mode present on the Simple UI).

To switch from the default Simple UI to Advanced UI, you need to do 10 clicks from Off with a hold on the 10th click (10H), with 10 clicks (10C) to return to Simple UI. Advanced UI has a lot more options available. It’s easier to show the UIs rather than explain them in words, so here is a helpful pic:

ui-diagram

You can also download a plain text-based manual from Anduril creator Toykeeper, or a more interactive one with version control here.

This implementation of Anduril 2 has eight discrete Stepped levels, which I’ve numbered in this review according to Wurkkos preference (H1 through H8, with H1 being the lowest level, and H8 being Turbo).

According to the firmware Version Check, my TS30S sample has model 0715. Full info is 2022-07-25-07-15 (version code is Year-Month-Day the firmware was compiled, followed by a 2-digit brand ID and 2-digit product ID). According to Selene (Toymaker), the TS30S Pro comes with either model 0715 (which was built for the TS25) or model 0716 (built for the FC13). Both of which work fine, but the model 0716 has improved RGB switch functionality, such as indicating battery voltage during use as well as when off.

Again, check the image and link above for more info, but here is a simplified description of the UI to get you started.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Turns On in lowest output, in either Ramping mode or Stepped mode depending on which mode is enabled (and which UI you are in)
  • Single-click (1C): Turns on in last memorized mode used (Ramping or Stepped)
  • Double-click (2C): Turns on to Turbo (aka the Ramping max output)
  • Triple-click (3C): Battery check (voltage read out a single time) and basic flashing/strobe modes.
  • Triple-click-and-hold (3H): Special strobe modes, but only when in Advanced UI (remembers last strobe mode used)
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode. In lockout mode you have different options available:
    • Press-and-hold (1H): Momentary Moonlight
    • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Momentary Low
    • 4 clicks (4C): Turns On in memorized output level
    • 4 clicks and hold (4H): Turns On in the lowest level
    • 5 clicks (5C): Turns On in Turbo
    • 10 clicks and hold (10H): Configure the lock timeout threshold (in Advanced UI only), allowing you to pre-set the timeout time of the lock.
  • 7 clicks (7C): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next mode. There are four modes you can switch between; constant low, blinking low, off, constant hi. Click 7 times again to advance to the next option, in sequence. The light auto-memorizes the last option you select.
  • 7 clicks-and-hold (7H): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next colour. The colours follow the sequence: Red, Yellow (Red+Green), Green, Cyan (Green+Blue), Blue, Purple (Blue+Red), White (Red+Green+Blue), Disco (fast random colors), Rainbow (cycles through all colors in order more slowly). See the video in the section above for what Rainbow looks like.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold (1H): Ramps up (or Steps up, depending on the mode). Ramps/steps down if you do it again.
  • Single-click (1C): Turns Off
  • Double-click (2C): Jumps to Turbo
  • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Ramps down (or Steps down)
  • Triple-click (3C): Switch between Ramping and Stepped modes
  • 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode (see above for options)

Mode memory:

Yes, the circuit memorizes the last constant On output level in either Ramping or Stepped modes.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, quite a few actually. The strobe/blinking modes are accessible from Off with a triple-click (3C) or triple-click-and-hold (3H), but in Advanced UI only. You can switch between strobe/blinking modes with 2 clicks (2C), in the following sequence (see testing results below to see what these look like):

Triple-click (3C):

  • Battery check
  • Temperature check
  • Beacon mode
  • SOS mode

Triple-click-and hold (3H):

  • Candle mode
  • Bike flasher mode
  • Party strobe mode
  • Tactical strobe mode
  • Lightning mode

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. In operation, the light drops in brightness in steps, and runs for an extended time at a very low level. Apparently it shuts off when the cell is ~2.8V (although I haven’t run it that long to confirm).

Lock-out mode:

Yes. In either Simple UI or Advanced UI, lockout is accessed by 4 clicks (4C) from On or Off (repeat to unlock). The lockout mode is unusual with Anduril, as it actually enables momentary operation in the minimum modes. There are other lockout modes available, as explained above. As always though, I recommend you physically lock out at the light at the tailcap, if you want to guarantee no accidental activation.

Temperature check and thermal calibration mode:

This is a little complicated (and beyond the needs of most users), so I will just refer you to the diagram from the manual above. With default settings, I find this light steps down fairly quickly due to heat (unsurprising, given default Anduril settings are conservative). I have not tried to reconfigure my sample. Note that if you get into any trouble (or wish to reset any custom configurations), you can easily reset the light to the factory defaults by 13 clicks-and-hold (13H).

Powerbank Feature:

The TS30S Pro can serve as a power bank, allowing you to charge other devices (like a cell phone) directly from the light. Simply plug a device into the USB-C port. As you can see above, it can easily charge my phone at ~1.6A, which is a fast charging rate.

Reviewer Comments:

Anduril is a sophisticated setup – a choice of Simple or Advanced UI, Stepped and Ramping modes, etc. Of course, you will never please everyone, and many may prefer a simpler interface (e.g., the Wurkkos TS22 or TD01). Like many flashaholics, I enjoy many of the extra customization items Anduril provides (especially with the switch RGB LED). Some of the features are really novelties though (e.g., candle mode and lightning storm are particularly well done, but when would you practically ever use them other than as a party trick?).

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled.

That being said, my oscilloscope was able to detect high frequency noise at all levels except max and min outputs, as depicted below.

H1:
L1

H2:
L2

H3:
L3L3

H4:
L4

H5:
L5

H6:
L6

H7:
L7

H8:
L8

Like on other lights running off simple FET drivers (e.g., Sofirn IF25A) there is high-frequency noise of ~5 kHz on non-Turbo levels. This is sufficiently high as to be completely undetectable visually, and is not a concern – the light remains flicker free in actual use.

Strobe Modes:

Note that for most of the strobe / flashing modes below, the actual frequency and intensity are both configurable. What I am showing below is the default speed and/or brightness setting. By pressing and holding the switch (1H or 2H) you can select the frequency – and in some cases, brightness is set from the last-used ramp level.

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon strobe is a single flash every ~2.25 secs (so, 0.45 Hz) by default.

SOS:
SOS

A fairly typical SOS mode.

Candle:
Candle

Candle strobe is a continuous flicker, of varying intensity (again, accurately simulating a candle).

Bike Strobe:
Bike

Bike strobe is a bit unusual. It is constant On at a lower level, with four brief flashes to max (over ~0.25 secs) every ~1.1 secs or so by default. It certainly is an attention grabber.

Party Strobe:
Party

Party strobe is a super-fast (and annoying) frequency of ~20 Hz by default.

Tactical Strobe:
Tactical
Tactical
Tactical strobe is basically ~9 Hz. Interestingly, it doesn’t stay completely stable on my TS30S Pro, but fluctuates from ~8.5 Hz to ~9 Hz over time. Either way, it is configurable.

Lightning Strobe:
Lightning
Lightning
Lightning
Lightning

I’ve shown four consecutive 10-sec cycles above, so you can a feel for the frequency and intensity of light flashes. Lightning strobe is a fairly realistic lightning simulation, with variable intensity and time between flashes.

Charging:

The switch button flashes orange the light is charging. Changes to solid orange when the charging is complete. Note the orange LEDs are separate from the user-selectable “AUX” RGB emitters under the switch.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The TS30S Pro has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged. The initial charging rate is 0.17A, which jumps to 2.0A once the cell exceeds 3.0 resting volts. These rates are good for a 21700 cell.

Note that you need to have a good charging adapter and cables to reliably supply the 2A current. I found that if anything else was connected to same USB-AC power adapter concurrently, the TS30S Pro’s switch LED would eventually start to flash rapidly (as some sort of error signal, it seems) – with the current repeatedly dropping to zero. The same would happen sometimes when using multi-pronged charging cables (i.e., those USB cables with multiple heads). Removing any the other devices and using a single dedicated cable resolved the problem.

Charging terminated at ~4.20V on my sample.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

With the switch LED set to off, I measured the standby drain for the electronic switch as fluctuating evenly between 102uA and 148uA (so, ~125uA on average). For a 5000mAh cell, that would translate into over 4.5 years before the cell would be fully drained – which is quite low. Regardless, I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap when not in use (which disables the standby drain).

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS30S Pro on L6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5060K, and a noticeably positive tint shift (+0.0149 Duv) to greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 64.

This is my first SBT90.2 emitter, but these values are not inconsistent with other rated 5700K XHP-class emitters I’ve tested.

Beamshots

All long-distance outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 1 sec exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The tree at the centre of the hotspot is approximately 90 meters (~100 yards) from the camera. Note the road dips down and turns away in the distance, out of the camera’s sight line. Learn more about my outdoor beamshot locations here.

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare the overall beams by switching between tabs.



To help illustrate the hotspots better, I’ve also cropped the raw pictures around the centre of the frame. As before, click on any thumbnail below to open a full size image in a new window.



As you can see above, the TS30S Pro puts out a ton of light, while still having excellent throw (i.e., hotspot intensity is roughly on par with the TD01).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration seems to run higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established).

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS30S Pro Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Smooth Ramp Min-0.0050.005----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H110.220.22----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H253.33.3----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H3151818----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H4455252----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H5110150150----5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H6480470460----4,992 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g5,0600.014962
H71,7001,6001,550----4,979 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
H86,0005,5505,200253,000 cd233,000 cd965 m-No0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Candle--------0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Bike Strobe------0.9 Hz-0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Party Strobe------20 Hz-0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Tactical Strobe------9 Hz-0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Lightning--------0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
Beacon------2.63 Hz-0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---
SOS-------5,010 Hz0.17 A2.0 A125 uA260 g328 g---

Like the TD01 that I recently reviewed, this light seems to have somewhat inflated specs on its highest levels. It is probably even worse than the numbers above suggest, as I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter similarly shows ~10% lower throw than the specs. But this is still an incredibly bright and far-throwing flashlight.

As an aside, I’ve very impressed with how low the light can go in the Smooth Ramping output level set. This is one of the lowest levels I’ve seen yet for a modern light. Note that this likely reflects the presence of a simple linear FET driver, as a boost driver would have reduced dynamic range (and a higher minimum). Scroll down to output/runtimes for confirmation.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

For all its larger build and higher-end emitter, it is clear Wurkos is still using a basic FET driver on this light (i.e., something similar to the Anduril-equipped Sofirn IF25A and Lumintop D3 lights). This means you also won’t see any flat voltage-regulated output patterns on the TS30S Pro. It also means the step-down level from max is relatively low (i.e., drops to ~600 lumens and slowly recovers up to ~1300 lumens over the next hour).

At least the output/runtime efficiency of the SBT90.2 is a little higher than the D3’s SFN55.2 and IF25A’s 4xSST20 emitters. That said, overall output/runtime efficiency is definitelty lower than the fully flat-regulated TS22 and Convoy M21F, in comparison.

Although the higher thermal mass here means it won’t step-down quite as quickly on the highest output level (H8), you can also see that the TS30S Pro step-down is pretty steep once it begins. To better show this initial step-down pattern, below is an expanded view of first few minutes of those runtimes.

Max-extended

I’ve thrown in an additional run above for the max of the Ramping mode, showing that this is identical the max of the Stepped modes.

And here is comparison of the all the levels I’ve tested, and a clearer time-scale resolution:Max-extended

I haven’t tried adjusting the thermal management settings (these are configurable with Anduril), but you should be able to extend the runtime before step-down slightly (at the expense of greater heat, of course).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Super high output and throw, thanks to the SBT90 emitter and large reflectorr.Light doesn't meet the stated max specifications.
Good implementation of the sophisticated Anduril 2.0 user interface.Lacks flat voltage-regulation, and shows instead a somewhat "noisy" gradual direct-drive-like runtime appearance.
Solid build quality, with good fit and finish. Switch performance is particularly good for the budget class.Light steps down rapidly on highest level to a relatively low output.
Rapid USB-C charging and powerbank function.Some beam artifacts, especially in the corona.
Very affordable option for a high-output thrower light.Anduril interface can be intimidating.
Lacks a holster or other carry option.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

I’m actually reasonably impressed with this model – it delivers an extraordinary amount of output and throw, with a good implementation of the Anduril user interface. Physically, the light feels very solid with good ergonomics (if understandably a bit top-heavy). And I like the feel of the rubberized switch cover, which I find superior to the typical Wurkkos hard button cover. I also like the RGB LED under the switch (in addition to the amber charging LED), as this gives you plenty of configuration options – and an impromptu “coloured Moonlight” mode option to boot. I don’t factor price into my rating system, but it is amazing to me that your can get a SBT90 emitter with all the features of this light for only ~$75 USD (i.e., the emitter alone is more than half that total cost).

That said, there are some missed opportunities here to make this a truly outstanding light. The most significant is the circuit – this light has the same basic FET driver that you see on many inexpensive Anduril lights, with a somewhat noisy and non-voltage-regulated runtime pattern. Overall output/runtime efficiency is somewhat better with the SBT90 than with lower-output emitters I’ve tested with this circuit, but it doesn’t compare to the fully regulated circuits that I’ve seen on the TS22 (and many other lights). This simple circuit is fundamentally why this light tops out at 4 stars in my view.

Physically, this light is pretty impressive for the price, but it would benefit from some refinements. One example is the reflector – while it throws remarkably well, there are a number of “daisy flower” like artifacts in the corona surrounding the hotspot (but that’s only noticeable on a white wall). Another area is thermal management. Like with many Anduril lights, the light steps down quickly from its highest modes due to heat. With a better heatsink in such a substantial build, you should have been able to extend that higher output runtime.

But thanks to the sophistication of Anduril, there is a lot you can do to customize the experience of this light. The rapid USB-C fast charging and powerbank functionality are also nice to see. I think its fair to give this light 4 stars given all that you do get here.

Acknowledgement

The TS30S Pro was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$75 USD (~$100 CDN) with typical discounts on their website here.

Wurkkos TD01

2 comments

The TD01 is a budget tactical flashlight featuring a TIR lens for maximum throw with minimal spill. Powered by a single included 21700 battery, with both tactical and general user interface options.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

The TD01 is a new tactical/hunting-style flashlight from Wurrkos. Featuring the low-profile Luminus SFT40 coupled with a large focused TIR, this 1×21700 flashlight is clearly designed to be a dedicated thrower. I was certainly impressed with the compact TS22 from Wurkkos, so am happy review this larger thower model.

Physically, the light is still fairly compact for having such a large head. There is also a tailcap forward clicky switch, coupled with an electronic side switch in the head. This design is very reminiscent of the reflectored Sofirn C8L – a comparison which, as we will see, runs more than skin deep.

Let’s see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelTD01
EmitterSFT40
Tint6000 - 6500 K
Max Output (Lumens)2,200
Min Output (Lumens)30
Max Runtime70 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)270,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)1039 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS, Beacon
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)
Weight (with battery)200 g
Length152 mm
Head Diameter59 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIPX-8

Package Details





I really like the packaging of the higher-end lights from Wurkkos (and Sofirn, which share a common manufacturing plant). The hard-sided box comes with a lot of printed specs on the sleeve, and a clear separation of items and components inside thanks to the cut-out foam. Inside the box, I found:

  • Wurkkos TD01 flashlight
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a “budget” build, but I would really like to see a holster included. These form factor lights tend not to fit well into after-market holsters.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F, Sofirn C8L, Wurkkos TS30S Pro, Wurkkos TD01, Acebeam L19 V2.0, Acebeam P17.










The Wurkkos TD01 immediately reminds me a lot of the Sofirn C8L in its overall build and feel. This is not surprising, since these lights come off the same manufacturing production line. I will get into the specifics below, but it is a solid build overall, with good handfeel. I would rate it as above average quality for a budget light, but lacking some of the nicer touches of a true top-of-the-line light. And while substantial in overall dimensions and weight, it is still pocket-able to some degree (i.e., with the head protruding out).

Like the C8L, there is a physical forward clicky switch in the tailcap, used for the turning the light on/off. However, switch feel is not as good on this particular sample – I find it too “soft and squishy” (i.e., you need to press more than expected to activate in momentary mode, and it’s too easy to then accidentally click). This makes momentary or a double-press (required to jump to Turbo from Off) tricky to do consistently. See the user interface section below for more information.

There are two raised tailcap guards that can serve as the lanyard attachment point. However, unlike the C8L (which had exact same arrangement), my TD01 is not able to tailstand at all – the tactical switch protrudes too far, beyond the switch guard rails. This is a missed opportunity on this model (or at least, this sample).

Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily on the TD01 by a simple twist of the tailcap.

There is a raised side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the head, with red and green LEDs underneath to show charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is very similar to a lot of Wurkkos and Sofirn lights – it’s ok, but could be a bit tighter/firmer (i.e., hard switch covers always have some degree of play).

The side switch shines a bright red when charging the battery through the light’s USB-C charging port (green when fully charged). The port is located on the opposite side from the switch, under a rubber cover. The cover fits pretty well on the TD01 (just like the C8L) – not too too tight, not too loose. I expected waterproofness is reasonable.

There is no actual knurling on the light, but large raised concentric rings around the body tube help with grip (pattern is virtually identical to the Wurkkos TS22). When combined with the head and tailcap ridge detail, I would say overall grip is pretty good. Note that the light can roll away completely unfettered when on its side – the head has a completely smooth round edge, and lacks any cut-outs of any kind (even the C8L had some gentle ones, to help reduce roll a little). I recommend you stand it upright on its head when not in use. Anodizing looks to be good quality for type II, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a good size spring in the head, ensuring good contact (always a good idea for a “tactical” light).

As with all things, it comes down to your expectations. The TD01’s build is a very good approximation of a quality tactical light, but it does have a number of small issues and inconsistencies that add up (and reflect its budget status).






The TD01 uses a very distinctive large TIR optic looks a lot like the Acebeam L19, except with a thicker centre “column.” I’ve taken pics from a lot of angles above, so you can see how it generally obscures the emitter (except in the second shot above). The low-profile SFT40 is ideal for producing a very focused beam, which the TD01 does very well.

The bezel is crenelated black aluminum – not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably. Note that some of the promotional material seems to suggest the light has a stainless steel strike bezel – it doesn’t, just this low profile aluminum bezel (again, in keeping with its budget nature). There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens.

Here are a couple of white wall beamshots, to give you an idea of how focused it is:


I’ve included the white wall beamshots above to highlight a single bright ring that is visible in the mid-distance around the hotspot. Note that in real life the hotpot is much smaller than it appears above (the camera settings are over-saturating the hotspot intensity). But I’ve chosen these settings to better show you the ring. Rest assured, the ring is not that distracting in real life, but it is present (scroll down for outdoor beamshots).

User Interface

The TD01 has a user interface that is identical to the Sofirn C8L, again reflecting their shared heritage. Like many “tactical” lights, you have two sets of possible modes; Mode Group 1 for General use, and Mode Group 2 for Tactical use.

To switch between groups, press-and-hold the side switch for >3 secs when On.

Mode Group 1 (default) available levels: Eco, Low, Medium, High, Turbo, Strobe, SOS, and Beacon.

Mode Group 1, from OFF:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Momentary On in last memorized mode.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Tail switch, double-press: Turns On in last memorized mode and then jumps to Turbo (click to stay locked-on in Turbo). You have be very rapid on the double-press to jump to Turbo.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Nothing – but if you click the tail switch while holding down the side switch, the light will activate in Eco mode.
  • Side switch, single-click: Nothing.

Mode Group 1, from ON:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Nothing.
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns Off.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold (3 secs): Switch to Mode Group 2 (see below)
  • Side switch, single-click: Steps up to the next non-Turbo constant output mode (in sequence, Eco > Lo > Med > High).
  • Side switch, double-click: Turbo.
  • Side switch, triple-click: Strobe.
    • Side switch, double-click when in Strobe: Cycle through in sequence Strobe > SOS > Beacon (with no mode memory).

Mode 1, Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Mode 1 Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press and hold the side switch while turning on at the tail switch.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the side switch from On, or double-press the tail switch from Off.

Mode 2 available levels: Medium, Turbo, and Strobe.

Mode 2 functions basically as a stripped-down “tactical” version of Mode 1. The main differences are:

  • Single-click of the side switch from On only selects between Medium and Turbo now.
  • Double-click of the the tail or side switch goes to Strobe instead of Turbo.
  • There is no level memory now.

Otherwise, the two modes function the same way.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery voltage  (lasts for ~5 secs):

  • Solid green: ~70-100%
  • Flashing green: ~40-70%
  • Solid red: ~10-40%
  • Flashing red: 0-10%

Mode memory:

Yes, in the Mode Group 1 for non-Turbo constant output modes. There is no memory in the Mode Group 2.

Shortcuts:

  • Mode Group 1: Yes, for Eco, Turbo and Strobe (see above).
  • Mode Group 2: Yes, for Eco and Strobe (see above).

Low voltage warning:

Yes, the main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off at ~2.95V

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but physically – you lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap.

Reviewer Comments:

As with the build, I think this is a reasonable dual-mode UI for a tactical light, with a general mode set and a tactical mode set.

One thing I’m not crazy about is the multiple-press functionality of the tactical tailcap switch. I didn’t really find this as much of an issue on the C8L, but my TD01’s switch is noticeably softer. This made it harder to consistently double-click the tailcap (i.e., soft-press, then press-and-click rapidly). But in any case, this level switching feature at the tailcap is completely unnecessary on the C8L/TD01 anyway, as you always have the electronic side switch in the head to control output levels (including accessing Turbo).

On the whole, I personally prefer General Mode Group 1, for its versatility. I suppose “tactical” people will like the lack of mode memory in Tactical Mode Group 2.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Mid:
Mid

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is high frequency circuit noise on all levels except Turbo on the TD01, at a visually undetectable constant frequency of 19.9 kHz. This is different from the C8L, which was completely noise free. As is often the case, this constant circuit noise increases in amplitude with output level. It is definitely not PWM, although it has a bimodal distribution (i.e., there is a secondary harmonic of rising/cresting waves at ~5 kHz), as shown in the expanded view of the High mode below

Turbo

Again, this is not a problem per se, as you won’t be able to see any of the above in use. But from long experience, I find this doesn’t bode well when it comes to overall circuit regulation and efficiency (scroll down for runtimes).

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 8 Hz and 14 Hz every 2 secs or so. Very distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Beacon:

A single flash beacon once every 2 secs (0.5 Hz).

Charging:

The switch button shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The TD01 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (although oddly, not its sister light the C8L) where there is a lower initial charging rate when the cell is heavily discharged. The initial charging rate is ~0.25A, which jumps to ~1.55A once the cell exceeds 3.0V resting. These rates are good for a 21700 cell. Charging terminated at ~4.19V on my sample. This is probably the first example where the TD01 has a slight advantage over the C8L.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

None. That is one of the nice things about a physical clicky switch, no standby current. 🙂 And you can always lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap, to prevent accidental activation.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TD01 on Med:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~6045K, and a noticeably positive tint shift (+0.0138 Duv) to greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 64.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the cool white SFT40 emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All long-distance outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 1 sec exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The tree at the centre of the hotspot is approximately 90 meters (~100 yards) from the camera. Note the road dips down and turns away in the distance, out of the camera’s sight line. Learn more about my outdoor beamshot locations here.

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare the overall beams by switching between tabs.



To help illustrate the hotspots better, I’ve also cropped the raw pictures around the centre of the frame. As before, click on any thumbnail below to open a full size image in a new window.



As you can see above, the TD01 is a very focused thrower. It does put out a little more light into the periphery than the L19, and with a slightly larger hotspot. But this is an incredible thrower.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration seems to run higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the calibration standard was first established).

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TD01 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco302928---No19.858 Hz0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
Low150155150---No19.858 Hz0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
Med350290285---No19.864 Hz0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g6,0450.013864
High900760740---No19.878 Hz0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
Turbo2,2002,1002,000255,000 cd235,000 cd970 mNo-0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
Strobe2,200-----8-14 Hz-0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
SOS350------19.858 Hz0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---
Beacon2,200-----0.5 Hz-0.25 A1.55 ANo193 g261 g---

Unlike my TS22 and C8L samples, the TD01 has inflated specs on its higher levels, compared to what I measure in my lightbox. Oddly, it’s worse on the Med and Hi levels, with Turbo only being inflated by ~10% in my lightbox. Although it is probably even worse than the numbers above suggest, as I know my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high for modern high-output lights.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and reports slightly lower beam intensity on Turbo (comparable to my lightbox for overall output measures). But this is still an impressive showing.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

One thing these results make very clear: Wurkkos is definitely not using a buck driver on the TD01. There had been some apparent miscommunication on this point when the light was first announced. It appears to be using a standard FET driver, producing the non-voltage-regulated runtimes you see above.

In and of itself, this is not necessarily a problem – such lights can still be relatively efficient. But that doesn’t really seem to be the case here. It is not as efficient as the Convoy S21E that I tested with this same SFT40 emitter – that light had perfectly flat regulated output (which lowers overall efficiency, since it spends a lot more time at higher output, plus has circuit overhead to consider). So performance here is disappointing, especially in comparison to the outstanding efficiency and regulation that you can see on the TS22 and the Sofirn C8L.

You can also see that the TD01 steps down very quickly on Turbo and Hi. To better show this initial step-down pattern, here is a expanded view of first few minutes of those runtimes:

Max-extended

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
As advertised, the light is a very dedicated thrower, thanks to its large focused TIR optic.Circuit is not voltage-regulated, producing a slowly decreasing output instead of flat runtimes. It also appears to be less efficient then other current-controlled lights with flat regulation.
The light has a solid build with good handfeel, although there are some small issues (see Cons).Tactical forward clicky switch has a softer feel than typical, making signalling or double-clicking difficult. It also protrudes too far, preventing tailstanding.
Price is incredibly low, making this arguably the best throwing light of the 1x21700 class at this price point.Light can roll very easily, with no preventive measures to impeed.
Output specs seem to be somewhat inflated.
Would really benefit from an included holster.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

Many of my build observations of the Sofirn C8L are true here as well – in many ways, this is a sister light to that model, but one that is heavily focused for throw. The lights are very similar in overall build quality and packaging, reflecting the common factory they are produced at (despite being different companies). The dual physical tailcap clicky and side electronic switch design – along with an identical user interface – further cements their close relationship.

But the switches are where I find the comparison starts to break, and not in the TD01’s favour. The switch feel is softer on my TD01 sample than the C8L, limiting its value for momentary signalling. And because it protrudes further than my C8L sample, the TD01 doesn’t tailstand at all, which is disappointing. Not a huge deal of course, but it is a minor annoyance that could easily have been avoided.

Overall output/runtime efficiency is fine for a SFT40 emitter, but overall output is lower than rated for the specs on this model. And unfortunately regulation is disappointing here too – especially against the outstanding TS22 and Sofirn C8L. It looks like Wurkkos simply reused an older driver/circuit for the SFT40 emitter, and updated it with the C8L’s user interface. I would have preferred to see a fully voltage-regulated pattern here.

Beam pattern is very throwy as advertised, and I find the TIR optic does a really good job of focusing almost exclusively for throw. There is just one noticeable beam ring – but that’s more an issue on a white wall than in actual use outdoors. It really is quite the spotlight!

Despite the close similarities to the C8L – and the impressive TIR optic here – I can’t give this light higher than 3.5 stars in its current form. The physical quirks with the switch, and the more significant circuit issues (i.e., off from the specs, lower sustained output, lack of voltage regulation, reduced efficiency, circuit noise, etc.) knock this light down a full star from the C8L in my view.

It is still an incredible value for the price, and I appreciate all that it does bring to the table. If the issues above don’t matter to you, this is a great way to experience massive TIR throw at a budget price (it really is unbelievably cheap!). As the beamshots show, that is an incredible beam. With a little more fine-tuning, this could become a top pick in the dedicated TIR thrower class.

Acknowledgement

The TD01 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$45 USD (~$60 CDN) with typical discounts on their website here.

Wurkkos COB Keychain SQ05

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  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

This is a slightly shorter “mini-review” of an inexpensive keychain style light, the Wurkkos COB SQ05 flashlight. Or, as it is likely better known – the free gift when you spend between $49 and $99 USD in the their online store. But you can actually buy this is as a standard alone item for ~$6 USD or so, with standard store discounts.

I won’t be providing quite as much commentary as usual (and beamshots will definitely be out), but otherwise will provide my full suite of testing results so that you can make informed decisions around output, use and performance.

Obviously, I’m not expecting much from the simple COB LED emitters on this keychain light – although I am impressed to see a built-in rechargeable battery with standard USB-C charging port. Let’s see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelKeychain SQ05
Emitter30x COB wicks
TintCool white
Max Output (Lumens)500
Min Output (Lumens)150
Max Runtime4 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)-
Max Beam Distance (m)-
Constant Levels-
Flashing-
Battery-
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)50 g
Length95 mm
Head Diameter55 mm
Body Diameter27 mm
Waterproof-

Package Details




The light ships in a colourful but thin cardboard box. As you can see, mine got dented during shipping, but it didn’t affect the light. Inside, you will find the following:

  • Keychain light, inside a small bubble-wrap pouch
  • Short USB-C charging cable
  • Simple manual

It’s a very basic package, in keeping with the budget price. But I am still surprised/impressed to see the USB-C charging port and cable included.

Build


From left to right: AAA NiMH, AA NiMH, Wurkkos Keychain SQ05, Armytek Crystal.










Note that the last picture above is when the battery is nearly exhausted, and the light is producing very low output.

Build is fairly basic, all-plastic in design, but better than expected for the price.

You have a simple carabiner-style clip that opens inward to allow you to attach it to a keychain, bag, or purse. There’s a button on one side that covers the electronic switch, which has a somewhat “soft” feel. On the opposite side is the USB-C port under a flimsy cover (attached but loosely fitting, I wouldn’t consider this very waterproof). On the bottom is a tripod mount, and on the top right corner is a “bottle opener” feature.

The light has a magnet on the back, allowing you to affix it to metal surfaces as a worklight. It also has a very simply plastic stand that opens up from the back, and that allows you to angle the light on flat surface (I found this plastic stand to be very flimsy, and it feels like it could break easily).

The main part of the light is the giant yellow phosphor square with 30 COB light wicks, arranged in a 5×6 grid. COB stands for “Chip-On-Board”, where the LED chip is in actual direct contact with the substrate. This allows COB makers to make large arrays, and potentially pack in the emitters more densely than with traditional discrete designs. This is not common for flashlights though, where some degree of throw is generally desired (and thus requires smaller emitters). But it can be valuable when you are looking to produce wide and even flood patterns.

Again, this is better quality than I expected for ~$6 USD (or less) keychain light.

User Interface

The manual is pretty simple, more a description of the features than an actual set of instructions. Here is a rundown from my testing:

From Off:

  • Single-click the switch: Turns On in 60% output.
  • Press-and-hold the switch: Turns On in 100%

From On:

  • Single-click the switch: If in 60% mode, advances to 30% output.
  • Single-click the switch again: If in 30% mode, advances to strobe.
  • Single-click the switch again: If in strobe, turns Off.
  • Press-and-hold the switch: Jumps to 100% (note that a single click of the switch again when in 100% mode turns Off).

And that’s it. So, in the main sequence you have to pass through 30% and strobe in order to turn Off through repeated clicks (ugh). This is not a good interface. However, if you do a press-and-hold to jump to 100% at any point, a single click will now turn you off.

Short-cuts:

Yes, a press-and-hold jumps you to 100% at any time.

Mode memory:

No.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, there is one high-frequency strobe.

Low voltage warning:

No.

Lock-out mode:

No.

Reviewer Comments:

This is about as basic as you could imagine an interface being. I really don’t like having to cycle through strobe to turn off in the main sequence, but at least you can bypass by going to 100% first.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

30%:
30

60%:
60

100%:
100

The light is actually controlled by PWM at the reduced 30%/60% output levels, as you might guess from the oscilloscope traces above. To confirm, here’s an expanded scale on the 60% output level, where you can see the classic square sine wave pattern of PWM:

PWM

At least the PWM on 30%/60% is at a decently high 3.9 KHz frequency. This is not particularly noticeable in practice, even to someone sensitive to PWM. Indeed, you won’t easily detect it unless you shine it at a fan or running water.

Strobe:

There is a single strobe of 8 Hz frequency (which is higher than I would like for a keychain light – this isn’t some sort of tactical device, after all). As you can see from the trace above, the PWM is visible during the on-phase of the strobe. This is because the strobe is running at reduced power (I believe it is the 30% output level).

Charging:

The initial charging current is ~0.45A, when the battery is nearly fully depleted (i.e., just a very low output from the emitters). As the light charges, the charging current quickly drops (i.e., to ~0.40A within a minute or so, keeps dropping from there). It doesn’t take very long to fully charge the light (I didn’t time it, but it is under an hour).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Given the electronic nature of the switch, there must be a standby current at all times. However, without breaking it open, and I am not able to measure it.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics of my sample in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

60% Level:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5930K, and a slightly positive tint shift (+0.0113 Duv) to yellowy-green at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 71.

These values are very consistent with budget cool white emitters, and match my visual experience of this light. It’s actually better than I expected for the price.

Beamshots

Sorry, no outdoor beamshots for keychain lights. 🙂

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

SQ05 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
30%1506055---3,916 HzNo0.45 A0.40 A--34 g---
60%300105100---3,916 HzNo0.45 A0.40 A--34 g5,9300.011371
100%500170160---3,916 HzNo0.45 A0.40 A--34 g---
Strobe------8 HzNo0.45 A0.40 A--34 g---

Output is lot lower than the rated specs (not entirely surprising). While I don’t doubt you could build a 500-lumen COB emitter array this size, this example seems to be lower density (and driven lower).

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

First thing you will notice is that all three output levels quickly step-down to much lower outputs, and then maintain a fairly stable flat runtime. Note as well that maximum output – even at initial activation – is lot lower than the rated specs (although the relative 30/60/100% distribution seems accurate, scroll down the measurement table for detail).

The light doesn’t actually turn off during the runtimes above, it just drops to a super-low level. I suppose it will eventually fully drain and shut off, but I don’t recommend you let it drain down that far (i.e., over-discharge is not good for rechargeable cells).

Here is a blow-up of the first few minutes, so that you can see the drop-down over time in better detail:

This is clearly a programmed step-down pattern. Both 100% and 60% begin their straight-line step-down at exactly 1 min, whereas the 30% level does it at exactly 1.5 mins. 100% takes 2.5 mins to step-down, 60% takes 1.5 mins, and 30% takes 1 min exactly.

I appreciate the stable runtime patterns, and flat regulation. But my subjective impression is that output/runtime performance is quite low for a “500mAh” rated battery (making me think that this spec is similarly over-stated).

To put these results in contact, here is how it compares to a more expensive competing dual white/red emitter keychain/headlamp model from Armytek that I will be reviewing next (rated at 600mAh capacity):

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Decent build quality and feature set for the incredibly low price.Initial output is far below rated specs on all levels, and rapidly drops down to considerably lower output.
Good regulation pattern, with programmed step-down and flat stabilization (although output is much lower than reported).Lower output levels are controlled by pulse-width modulation (PWM), although at a reasonable 3.9 kHz.
Very even flood beam without artifacts, at a standard cool white temperature.Runtimes are much lower than I expected for the rated battery capacity.
Standard USB-C charging (cable included) - but battery seems lower capacity than rated.User interface is very basic, with strobe on the main sequence.
Integrated rechargeable Li-ion is not user replaceable.
A bit large for a keychain light.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

This is actually a very decent little budget keychain light. For ~$6 USD (or less, as it is thrown in for free with a minimum $49 purchase from Wurkkos), it is a great buy. I was pleasantly surprised to see the feature set at this price point – cool white beam, very even flood, multiple levels, stable regulation, and rechargeable by USB-C. Wow!

Clearly, we have come a long way from those awful little coin cell-based 5mm LED squeeze lights that used to come for free with flashlight purchases. I vividly recall their bluish beams, horrible beam artifacts, rapid direct-drive drop-downs, etc., etc.

So, why the low star rating here? Well, I’m not including price in my rating system, but instead focus on objective results. In that regard, this light is disappointing relative to rated specs. Initial output is very far below quoted specs (i.e., at best no more than a third as bright as the rated “500 lumen” spec in my lightbox). And actual output then quickly drops down ~70-80% from those initial low levels for the extended runs. Finally, actual runtimes are much shorter than I would have expected for the rated battery capacity.

The user interface is also pretty basic – it’s been at least a decade since I saw a light where you had to cycle through a high-frequency strobe to turn it off. The rating would have dropped further if it weren’t for the work-around option to go through 100% before clicking off instead!

Similarly, this is the first time I’ve seen PWM since my return to reviewing – although thankfully at a reasonable ~4 kHz frequency. If it weren’t for the programmed step-down patterns, I would think this was actually a circuit from 10-15 years ago.

But all that said, this still seems like an outstanding value as a (nearly) free item. I plan to slip mine into my travel backpack, as an emergency backup light. My only concern is that I don’t know what the standby drain is like, and would be worried about starting a charge cycle if it gets over-discharged (i.e., the fire risk/safety of inexpensive built-in Li-ions is always unknown). But it does seem like a good solution for anyone looking for a simple back-up light with a great flood beam. Just match your expectations to the price – you get more than you pay for here, but only up to a point.

Acknowledgement

The SQ05 was included as a standard free gift in an order I made through the Wurkkos website. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$6 USD (~$8 CDN) or less with coupons, and is included for free on orders >$49 USD.

Wurkkos TS22

26 comments

The TS22 is a very compact but high output general-purpose flashlight, running on a single included 21700 battery. It features a well-regulated and efficient boost circuit for maximum performance.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Upon my return to reviewing this year, I quickly discovered that Wurkkos is a well-regarded newer “budget” flashlight maker. Indeed, like Convoy and Sofirn, I soon started receiving user requests to review their lights as well. The Wurkkos TS22 was always on my radar, given my initial focus on compact, EDC-style 1×21700 lights. I’m pleased that Wurkkos agreed to send me this model for review.

Building on their earlier popular FC12 and TS21 models, the TS22 features the high-output XHP70.2 emitter, and is rated for max output up to 4500 lumens. Note that my sample has a neutral white colour temperature (5000K) while still rated at the same 4500 max lumens as the cool white (6000K) version. FYI, according to the Wurkkos website, I see a new XHP70.3 HI emitter option (in cool white only) is also now available.

That’s a lot in a compact light, so I’m curious to see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelTS22
EmitterXHP70.2
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)4,500
Min Output (Lumens)10
Max Runtime280 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)9,150 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)191 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)95 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length122 mm
Head Diameter28 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details





One thing you may notice is the packaging looks virtually identical to the Sofirn C8L I just reviewed. Indeed, there are many aspects to the lights that also seem identical (see Build details below), making it clear to me that Wurkkos and Sofirn are sharing the same manufacturing plant (at least for these two models). Researching online, it seems the two firms have an association, with Sofirn providing the contract manufacturing capabilities for Wurkkos (though Wurkkos is a separate company).

The second thing you’ll notice is that a corner of the box on this sample got heavily dented/damaged in shipping (it was just wrapped in a waterproof packaging with no extra protection). But that’s just fine – the box is made of very hard cardboard with cut-out form inserts inside, so nothing important got damaged.

The box comes with a lot of printed specs and a clear separation of items and components inside (reminds me a bit of modern cell phone packaging). Inside the box, I found:

  • Wurkkos TS22 flashlight, with stainless steel pocket clip attached
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. I particularly like the included bi-directional pocket clip, a nice touch given the low price.

Build


From left to right: Skilhunt 18650 (3500mAh), Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70 Mini, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, Acebeam E70, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Convoy S21E, Fenix E35 v3, Imalent MS03, Skilhunt H300, Skilhunt M300 V2, Wurkkos TS22.








The TS22 is a nice and solid build, with distinctive ridged cutouts along the body tube. This provides excellent grip without using actual knurling (and so, will be easier on fabric/clothes). Grip is especially good with the clip attached. It feels very solid and high quality, similar in handfeel to the Acebeam E70 (but a little smaller and lighter overall).

However, the light it most reminds me of is the Sofirn C8L that I recently reviewed. Just like I noted for the packaging above, I’m struck here by how the electronic switch cover looks and feels identical. The tailcap has the same battery orientation label (as well as the same body certification labels, the same heat warning on the head, etc). Even the base of the circuit board in the heads looks very similar. Although the actual ridge detailing is different, it is clear these two models are produced at the same manufacturing plant.

I am impressed with the physical build of this light. The bidirectional clip is a nice touch, and one I like seeing on a compact EDC-style light. The electronic switch has both green and red LEDs underneath, and light up to illustrate aspects of operation. I’m not crazy about the switch feel though – just like the C8L, I find there is just a bit too much play on the hard switch cover, and it’s possible that a glancing press may not properly connect. Note that like the Sofirn IF25A, you can activate a locator beacon function for the switch – but it is set by default to off on this light (see User Interface section for more info).

Tailstanding is very stable, thanks to the flat tailcap (there is a side cut-out to allow you thread the basic wrist lanyard through). Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap.

Note there is a magnet in the tailcap, allowing you stably mount the light horizontally (or upside-down) on any metal surface. Strength of the magnet is just about right in my view – enough to hold stably, but not as super-strong as some lights (e.g. Armytek, which tend to attract nearby metal objects).

The light’s USB-C charging port is located on the head opposite to the electronic switch. The port has a thick rubber cover. Just like the C8L, I found the cover to fit rather tightly, making it hard to full depress. But I suppose that should help with waterproofness if you can press it down enough.

Note that the light can roll easily if you take the pocket clip off, so I recommend you keep it on. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin – not as glossy as some, but not completely matte either. Its a nice package, comfortable and well-balanced in the hand with decent grip.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a small post in the head, ensuring good contact given the decently robust tailspring (which is often required to support higher current draws).



The TS22 uses a XHP70.2 emitter, coupled with a deep textured reflector (moderate orange peel, OP). As always, there is some colour shifting across the periphery of the beam (a well-known issue with XHP70.2 emitters). Unfortunately, this is accentuated by the purplish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens of my TS22 sample. That said, it’s still not as bad as some I’ve seen.

The bezel is crenelated bare aluminum – scalloping is not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably.

There is a very interesting option with this light, which is to turn on the switch indicator (green LED) when the battery and tailcap are connected. As I will explain below, this is a good way to give yourself an effective “moonlight” mode, depending on how you want to configure the UI.


Locator

The second pic above is a close-up on a white wall in the dark (not really this bright, using my cellphone’s auto-adjust mode). As you can see, the green is a bit uneven (i.e., center hotspot and semi-circular crescent below), but it does work well enough for dark-adapted eyes. Scroll down for more details on how to turn it on.

User Interface

Unlike the previous model it replaces, the TS22 is not using Anduril. Instead, it has its own customized user interface – which also has a lot of advanced features, and is at least comparable to many of the good quality Convoy and Sofirn lights.

To start, you have a choice between Stepped Ramping mode (default), or continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode. To switch between these modes, click 4 times when the light is On.

Stepped Ramping mode (default) levels: Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, and Strobe

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • 4 clicks: Manually activate Lock-out mode. Double-click to unlock.
  • 5 clicks: Set the switch indicator button to constant-on green, flashing green (roughly one quick flash every 2 secs), or off (default setting). The setting is memorized for when you next reconnect the battery/tailcap. This allows the switch LED to serve as a locator beacon for the flashlight, or an impromptu moonlight mode (see below). Note that setting either constant or flashing green disables the auto lock-out function (again scroll down for a discussion).

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle between Lo > Med > Hi (in sequence).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Note that doing a double-click from Turbo jumps you to Eco mode (which is odd, I would have expected it to jump back to whatever was previously memorized).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Switch between Stepped Ramping mode and Smooth Ramping mode

Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press-and-hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).

Smooth Ramping mode levels: continuously-variable ramp from the Eco-level to Turbo, and Strobe.

Smooth ramping functions basically the same as Stepped ramping above, with the same shortcuts to Eco, Turbo and Strobe. The main difference is that a press-and-hold of the switch when On smoothly ramps across the entire output range (from Eco through Turbo), rather than just the 3 discrete levels in Stepped Ramping.

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. The main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off by ~2.7V.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but an unusual one. After 3 minutes of inactivity, the light will automatically lock it itself out so that a single-click won’t activate (i.e., the same as if you did 4 clicks from Off to enter the lock-out state). When locked out, the main emitter just does a quick double-flash if you single-click the switch, to indicate the lock out status. I have to say this auto lock-out surprised me the first time it happened (which is what you get for not reading the manual, doh!). A double-click of the switch deactivates the lock-out, and let’s you use the light normally again.

Alternatively, you can do a twist loosen/tighten of the tailcap, which also resets and deactivates the lock-out. Or, you can turn on the locator feature for the button indicator, which also disables the auto lock-out.

Given the unusual standby current (see below), I recommend you always store the light physically locked-out by a twist of the tailcap. If you do this, then you have a great opportunity to add an additional “green moonlight” mode to the light by setting the switch indicator to constant green. Simply twist the tailcap tight to turn on the “green moonlight” indicator LED, and then then use the switch as you normally would to activate all the regular modes of the main emitter.

Note that setting either indicator disables the auto lock-out feature, and will result in a much fast standby drain (again, scroll down for details). But I find that it’s more versatile to have the switch indicator set to constant on, and physically lock out the light at the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

Yes. The LED under the switch indicates the battery status for the first ~5 secs after turning on:

  • Solid Green: >30% Battery power remaining
  • Solid Red: <30% Battery power remaining
  • Flashing Red: Battery critically low, recharge as soon as possible.

Regardless to how you have set the switch indicator, it does shut off after 5 secs of continuous main LED use.

I have to say, this doesn’t seem like the best range of power levels to indicate (personally, I liked the Sofirn C8L settings better). Also, I did notice some inconsistencies on my sample where a nearly-full cell would sometimes (infrequently) show red or even flashing red. Not sure why that happened.

Video Overview:

Please see the video below, which walks you through the UI and build features of this light:

Reviewer Comments:

The UI is surprisingly versatile, although it is a bit quirky in some of its settings. Case in point, automatically entering the lock-out mode after 3 mins is a new one for me, and was more annoying than practical during my testing. Ultimately not a huge deal for me, as I always store my lights locked out at the tailcap when not in use anyway. And as I explain above, this opens up the opportunity to effectively turn the switch LED into an ad hoc “green moonlight” mode, as this also disables the auto lock-out. It’s also unusual nowadays to be limited to a single disorienting strobe – I would prefer to see a slow signaling strobe/beacon.

Note there is one other interesting feature to the TS22 – the light remembers the state of the electronic switch, even if you break the current at the tailcap. So if the light were in the on-state and you twist the tailcap loose to turn off, the next time you twist it tight again the light comes on automatically. This is unusual, as most lights simply revert to the electronic off-state once current is broken. But it does add versatility here if you want to use the light as a twisty – you don’t need to also click the electronic switch again to activate.

All that said, there are a good range of options here, on par with the better budget makers. In particular, I also like the option of switching between discrete Stepped ramping and continuously-variable Smooth ramping.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Mid:
Mid

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no circuit noise on any level until Turbo, where you can see some high-frequency noise around 18 kHz. This is completely undetectable and not a concern.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 14 Hz every 1.75 secs or so. Very distracting.

There are no beacon or SOS modes.

Charging:

The switch button flashes red when the light is charging (roughly one second on, one second off). Switches to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The TS22 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when the cell is heavily discharged). Main charging rate is nice and high at 2A, which is good for a 21700 cell. Charging terminated at ~4.19V on my sample.

Note that the light can also serve as power bank to charge other USB-devices, like your cell phone. Simply plug the device into the USB-C power port, as shown below.

power bank

That’s a pretty impressive charge rate of 2.15A (shown charging my Samsung Galaxy S21+).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

In the default state (i.e., no switch LED indicator), I measured the standby current as fluctuating between ~100-110 uA, with periodic jumps every couple of seconds to 1.82 mA. I’m not sure why it keeps jumping to the higher level.

UPDATE July 6, 2023: I had initially speculated that this may have to do with the power bank feature (i.e., I wondered if it keeps checking to see if a device is connected for charging). But I have determined this is not the case. I have gone and measured the standby drain for over 3 mins, and found that the periodic jumps to 1.82mA stop as soon as the auto lockout engages. The light stays within ~100-110 uA from that point on – and yet the power bank feature still works just fine.

For a 5000mAh battery, that would mean a little under 5 and half years before the battery would be fully drained. This is very reasonable for the class, and not a major concern, but I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap to cut the current completely.

As a comparison, I decided to test the other two switch indicator states (i.e., flashing once every 2 secs, or constant-on green). Interestingly, the flashing mode is 1.82 mA during the off-state, with a jump to 3.60 mA every time the green light illuminates. And not surprisingly, the constant-on green LED is a constant 3.60 mA drain. Note those levels would result in a 5000 mAh battery being fully drained in just under 3 months and 2 months, respectively.

As explained above though, this does give you the option to basically take advantage of a “green moonlight” mode to the light, by activating the constant green indicator LED under the switch. Just use the tailcap as a “twisty” for on/off of the moonlight, and click the switch for main mode illumination. And I would say 2 months of constant moonlight output is not bad.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS22 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4765K, and the slight positive tint shift (+0.0091 Duv) to yellowish at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 67.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the neutral white XHP70.2 emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the TS22 is a very bright floody light, with a lot of output into the foreground. As expected, it doesn’t throw as far as the larger head-size lights.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS22 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco101010---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Low1009595---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Mid500565560---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
High1,8002,2002,100---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g4,7650.009167
Turbo4,5005,1504,80011,500 cd11,100 cd211 mYes18 KHz0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Strobe4,500-----6-12 HzNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---

This is a rare light where both my lightbox and my NIST-calibrated luxmeter actually report slightly higher output and beam distance measures than what the manufacturer reports. An impressive showing!

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

One thing these results make very clear: Wurkkos has invested in an excellent quality constant-current boost driver. This is evidenced by the simply outstanding output/runtime efficiency on the higher levels above – and the lack of a true Moonlight level. However, as I explained in the UI and Circuit Feature sections above, you can set the switch indicator to effectively function as a “green moonlight” mode. So you really can have the best of both worlds here!

I really am blown away by the performance above. The comparison to the Acebeam E70 is particularly telling, as the drop-down levels on the TSS22 Turbo/Hi, and the constant Med level, are basically identical to the E70 (facilitating direct comparisons). What you can see is that the TS22 is up to 20% more efficient than the E70 (!). This is shown by either longer runtime for the same output (i.e., Med), more output for equivalent runtime (i.e., on Hi), or a combination of the two (i.e., Turbo).

These results are all the more impressive when you consider the ~5000K neutral white emitter on my TS22 sample. In the past, it was common to see lower rated output on neutral white emitters compared to cool white ones (due to the extra phosphor required). I can only assume my TS22 sample must have a particularly good output bin, as I doubt the circuit driver alone would account for such an efficiency boost (i.e., Acebeam has very good drivers too in my experience). But I didn’t expect this best-of-class performance from a “budget” model!

I’ll be honest, I was initially doubting these results, thinking my lightbox sensor might a little too sensitive to warmer whites than cooler ones. But I confirmed the TS22 and E70 output levels by a ceiling bounce using my calibrated lux lightmeter, and everything tracks. And that same calibrated lightmeter also reports greater beam distance (compared to the rated specs), making me think I just happened to get a particular good TS22 sample and/or XHP70.2 5000K emitter.

The regulation pattern is also top notch, with perfectly flat outputs until the battery is nearly exhausted. At that point there is a distinctive rounded step-down pattern.

To better show the initial step-down pattern on Turbo/Hi, here is a expanded view of first few minutes of the runtimes:

Max-extended

Note again that all my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan. I have tested the light without it, and the TS22 simply steps down sooner – but to the same levels shown above.

The light is certainly well regulated at every level, with outstanding efficiency.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has outstanding output/runtime efficiency, best-in-class I've seen for a XHP70.2 emitter so far.User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class, but it does have a few unusual quirks (most especially auto lock-out, see the UI and circuit measures above for an explanation).
Circuit shows excellent regulation, with thermally-mediated ramp down on Turbo/High, and step-downs as the battery is almost drained.There are some minor tint shifts across the beam periphery (common on this emitter class).
By configuring the switch indicator LED for constant on, you can have an effective "green moonlight" mode.Light has a relatively high standby drain if the auto lockout is disabled by activating the indicator feature. In any case, I always recommend locking out at the tailcap when not in use.
Compact build with good quality and decent handfeel.
Includes a bidirectional pocket clip
Can function as a power bank, to charge external devices.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

Many of my observations of the Sofirn C8L are true here as well – consistent with their similar overall build quality and packaging (reflecting the common factory they are produced at, despite being different companies). There even seem to have exactly the same electronic switch cover (which is one minor negative for me – I find it a bit “soft” in feel).

But the TS22 is a stand out performer for the compact 1×21700 class – best-in-class output and overall efficiency to date in my testing. And with my preferred neutral white tint to boot! Regulation pattern is excellent as well, this light is an outstanding performer, and at a budget price. Of course, that kind of performance comes at a cost – the TS22 clearly has a strong boost circuit, which often means you have to sacrifice a main emitter moonlight mode. As with everything, there are trade-offs.

However, a saving grace here is the ability to activate the switch indicator green LED for constant-on when the battery is connected. Thus by simply connecting the light at the tailcap, you have an additional rudimentary “green moonlight” mode available to you. It’s good practice to get into locking out this light physically at the tailcap anyway (given the high relative standby current, presumably due to the innovative powerbank feature). And special bonus, using this constant-on indicator LED deactivates the auto-lock-out feature (which I found less than helpful anyway). So, a win-win all around.

The main beam pattern, while floody overall, is a bit more throwy than I expected for the size light and type of emitter – the reflector is relatively deep for the size. As with all XHP70.2 emitters, there is some tint shifting across the periphery of the beam (accentuated by the purplish AR coating here), but it is minor on my sample.

Wurkkos went with a custom user interface for this model. It has a decent number of customizable features, and is very reasonable for the class (i.e., similar or more advanced to many Convoy and Sofirn lights). Sure, it has a few quirks, but nothing you can’t get used to.

When considering all the considerable positives above, and the relatively minor issues, I think this light is worthy of a full 5 stars. Not something I give out often!

This is clearly a top pick for this class, and all for a budget price. Very impressive, and I look forward to trying out additional Wurkkos lights.

Acknowledgement

The TS22 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$45 USD (~$60 CDN). Wurkkos has provide me a 20% discount code to share with my readers, but their codes expire quickly (expected to expire in mid July): WURKKOS20 for use on their website here.