Tag Archives: XHP70.2

Wuben X1 Falcon

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The X1 is a very high-output flashlight featuring three XHP70.2 emitters running on two included 21700 rechargeable batteries. It features a distinctive build, with a built-in fan to maintain excellent thermal performance during max output.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m still working on clearing my backlog – the X1 sample was received in early November 2023.

Wuben came on the scene around the time that I was taking a break from flashlight reviewing. So I never had the opportunity to test one of their models until now. First up is their super-high-output X1, featuring 3x Cree XHP70.2 emitters.

The X1 has a distinctive build, with a flat side-by-side battery arrangement (2×21700). Coupled with a built-in fan for keeping the light cool during max-output operation, you have the potential for well-regulated sustained output. Does the X1 live up to its potential? Let’s find out.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: As always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWuben
ModelX1
Emitter3xXHP70.2
Tint6000 K
Max Output (Lumens)12,000
Min Output (Lumens)20
Max Runtime220 hours
Max Beam Intensity (cd)23,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)303 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS
Battery2x21700
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)379 g
Length128.5 mm
Head Diameter56 mm
Body Diameter28 mm
WaterproofIP55

Package Details






The X1 comes in the modern “cellphone box” style packaging common for higher-end lights today. Included:

  • Wuben X1 flashlight
  • Integrated 2×21700 4800mAh battery pack
  • Paracord-style wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • Belt holster
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, and I particularly like the enclosed belt holster for the light.

Build


From left to right: Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Vapcell 21700 F56 (5600mAh), Emisar D4K, Wurkkos WK15, Armytek Wizard C2 Max, Wurkkos TS22, Sofrin SC29, Speras E21, Wuben X1 Falcon, Sofirn SC33, Sofirn SP35T, Cyansky P50R, Cyansky P25.






The X1 is a substantial light – hefty, but with good handfeel and ergonomics for the size. It is slightly heavier than I would have expected, which I suspect is due to a significant heatsink in the head. The switch is easy to access, and I find the user interface reasonably intuitive (scroll down for details).

The light features a relatively closed body design, and you are not meant to open it up or change the cells (i.e., note the do-not-disassemble notice on the base). Attempting to open it will likely void the warranty.

That said, there are small torx screws located on the plates holding the switch, the side fan and side heatsink, as well as the handle to the head and the tail to the handle. So if you are determined to open it, you should be able to easily enough with the right torx bit. This is handy in case of battery failure, since I know most would be concerned in buying a permanently sealed light at this price point. I think this is a reasonable compromise, as I find most side-by-side designs that are meant to have the cells readily changed can often have flimsy tailcaps that break easily. So at least you don’t have to deal with that here – you can open it if you need to, but you shouldn’t need to.

One of the notable build features is the built-in fan, that activates when running the light on Turbo. The fan cannot be controlled separately (it’s thermally-regulated), and I don’t find it too loud even on sustained Turbo runs (but it is noticeable).

You can see the heatsink and fan through the side slats on either side of the light. This is a thoughtful design feature to keep the light able to provide sustained max output. Of course, the fan is one more part that can fail (or get clogged with dust, debris, etc.). But typically, these sorts of fans are rated for a good amount of time.

There is a USB-C charging port for charging the batteries, located on the side under a dust cover. The cover fits well and is snug. This should provide very decent splash or rain resistance, but as always I don’t recommend dunking the light in water if you can help it.

The light doesn’t have a huge amount of ridge detail, but what it does have is fairly deep. That combined with its rectangular shape gives it pretty good grip (rolling is certainly not going to be a problem!). The light can headstand, tailstand, or sidestand stably (i.e., on all surfaces). Note there are a couple of small holes on the back for attaching optional accessories, like a clip or bike attachment.

Anodizing appears to be excellent on my sample, no obvious chips or damage. My sample came in all black, but I gather other colours are available for the body. I would describe it as a matte finish. Lettering is minimal, and not overly bright (but sharp and clear).

There is a small LED at the center of the switch, showing you charging or charge-remaining status.



The X1 comes with three Cree XHP70.2 emitters, located side-by-side in a common reflector with individual wells. The light is of course more of a flooder than a thrower, but it produce a decent center beam, with a wide but narrow spill, given this shape (scroll down for beamshots).

The center beam pattern is lovely, somewhat creamy yellow (i.e., a bit warmer than I expected for the 6000K, scroll down for tint measures). Even the periphery is remarkably even and free of artifacts – they have done a very good job on the reflector.

Impressively, I haven’t noticed any significant tint shifting across the main hotspot or corona (something that is common with single XHP70.2 emitters). That said, there is a bit of a tint shift to purple in the spill and periphery (but I suspect that is due more to the purplish anti-reflective coating on the lens).

The bezel is flat black aluminum.

User Interface

The X1 uses a straightforward user interface, and one that is very similar to many other lights.

To start, you need to realize the light is shipped in Lockout mode. Since you cannot easily remove the tailcap, this is unavoidable. To unlock the light, simply do 4 fast clicks of the switch.

Mode levels: Eco, Low, Med, High, Turbo, Strobe, and SOS.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode (except for Turbo or flashing modes).
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo.
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Deactivates Lockout mode.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Advances through main output modes (again, except for Turbo or flashing modes).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Press-and-hold to return to last memorized mode (Single-click turns Off).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe. Triple-click again to jump to SOS. Single-click to return to last memorized mode.

From Lockout:

  • 4 clicks: Disable Lockout.

Mode memory:

Yes, for constant output modes, except Turbo.

Shortcuts:

  • Lowest mode: Press and hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off.
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the switch shows the battery capacity remaining (lasts for ~5 secs upon activation):

  • Solid blue: >90%
  • Flashing blue: ~40-90%
  • Solid red: ~15-40%
  • Flashing red: <15%

Low voltage warning:

Not that I’ve noticed – as you will see from the runtimes below, the shut-off is pretty abrupt.

Lockout mode:

Yes – turned on by default when shipped. You can toggled it off/on by 4-clicks from Off.

Reviewer Comments:

I find this interface very intuitive, similar to a lot of other lights (e.g. many of the Sofirn/Wurkkos lights with an electronic switch). The only inconsistency I’ve noticed is how you exit from the shortcuts to Turbo and Strobe/SOS (i.e., the first requires a press-hold, the other a click). Aside from that though, this is all very consistent and relatable.

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is also no circuit noise on any level, which is always great to see. Note that circuit noise is not a problem per se, but I find that its absence (as in this case) bodes very well in terms of regulation and output/runtime efficiency. Scroll down to see actual results.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 9 Hz and 13 Hz every ~1.5 secs or so. Very disorienting and distracting.

SOS:

A standard SOS mode, relatively slow.

Charging:

The LED on the switch shows solid red when the light is charging. Changes to solid blue when the charging is complete.

The X1 has an interesting built-in charging circuit, as shown in the video below:

The X1 starts charging at a very low current (<0.05A) for a couple of seconds before ramping up to its full charging rate of just under 2.0A over the next 2-3 seconds. This slow ramp is a good safety feature, while the the circuit interrogates the state of the cells. Given its serial battery orientation, this is a reasonable charging rate by modern standards. The light charges at 9V.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

Due to electronic switch, there is bound to be a parasitic standby drain when the light is not in use. But because of its fully enclosed physical build, I cannot measure it.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

X1 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5400K, and a negligible positive tint shift (+0.0047 Duv) toward slightly greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 82.

These values are slightly warmer than most cool white XHP70.2 emitters in my testing, bordering on neutral white. That is also a slightly better CRI than typical for the XHP70.2, although it is within the range of my testing. Unlike some other reviews of this light, I didn’t notice any significant chromatic aberrations across the beam profile (other then a slight shift to purplish in the periphery, likely due to the AR coating on the lens).

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


As you can see above, the X1 puts out a huge amount of light, with a very wide beam profile (note that I am holding with the light with the widest aspect parallel to the ground). It’s a great flood light in this orientation, with a super-wide beam.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

X1 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco202727---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
Low400500500---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
Med1,0001,2001,100---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
High2,6003,7003,650---NoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g5,4100.004782--------------
Turbo12,00012,00011,00019,500 cd17,800 cd267 mNoNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g---12,00020220 hours23,000 cd303 m5Strobe, SOS2x21700-379 g128.5 mm56 mm28 mmIP55
Strobe3,000-----9-14 HzNo2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------
SOS200-------2.0 A2.0 AYes (not measured)-380 g-----------------

The X1 seems to match fairly closely to the specs on most levels (although keep in mind that my lightbox’s relative calibration is generously high). The Turbo spec seems slightly over-stated relative to my testing however.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter is accurately calibrated to an absolute standard, and similarly reports lower beam intensity on Turbo compared to the specs. But I find these throw measures very reasonable for these kinds of emitters and output levels.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

Given the dual-cell and triple-emitter design, it can be a little hard to compare to most lights. I’ve thrown in the fan-cooled super-large Acebeam X75 for comparison at the extreme output end.

Max

Hi

What you can see above is that regulation is excellent, as is output/runtime efficiency  (i.e., more that twice the output or runtime compared to single cell/emitter lights). This is what you can expect from a good multi-emitter light on dual cells with good heatsinking – more stable and longer-lasting performance.

Since I expect many are interested in how the initial Turbo modes compare (i.e., how quickly and how far the lights step-down), here is a blow-up of the first few mins of runtime on max output:

The X1 steps down around the one minute mark, similar to many other lights (although to be fair, most lights aren’t driven as hard as the X1 on Turbo).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has outstanding output/runtime efficiency.Max output is slightly lower than the specs indicate, although the rest of the output levels seem fairly accurate.
Circuit shows excellent flat-stabilized regulation, with thermally-mediated stepdowns (aided by built-in cooling fan).Light lacks a moonlight mode.
Solid and sturdy build, although heavier than I expected.Light is larger and heavier than most in this class.
User interface is very intuitive and similar to other modern lights.Due to the build, physical lockout is not possible, only electronic lockout.
Lockout mode (on by default when shipped) can be easily disabled/re-enabled.
Beam profile is remarkably clean and free of artifacts or tint shifting on my sample.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The X1 is one of my new favourite high-output, multi-emitter lights. Thanks to the built-in cooling fan (and hefty heatskink) it can sustain Turbo output for a reasonable amount of time without getting too hot to hold. But it can also maintain an incredibly bright Hi mode for an extended runtime. As such, this light helps fill a bit of Goldilocks “just-right” intermediate between a single-cell high-out light and my massive Acebeam X75. To be honest, I can’t think of many occasions when I would need more light (or runtime) than what the X1 can provide.

I find the light comfortable to hold and use (although it is a bit heavy), with a very intuitive user interface common to many lights. The inability to easily open up the light is actually probably more of a selling feature here, as I don’t have to worry about compromising waterproofness. And if one of the cells does eventually fail, I know I can access the tailcap reasonably easily.

Due to this design, physical lockout is not possible – and I have no idea what the standby drain is. I’m not too worried though, as I have not seen any drop in capacity from the initial battery read-out even when storing for several months. The electronic lockout is quite reasonable here.

While the extra bulk and weight many be an issue, the side-by-side design at least makes this still relatively easy to pocket.

Performance of the light is excellent across all modes, with flat-stabilized output and outstanding runtime. I do wish the light would give some kind of advance warning when the batteries are near shutdown – but you can always reactivate at the lower level to if you need to squeeze some extra light before recharging (and turning off/on periodically will allow you to check the charge remaining).

In summary, overall excellent build quality and performance in my handling. I’m impressed for my first Wuben light.

Acknowledgement

The X1 Falcon was supplied by Wuben for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$180 USD (~$240 CDN) o the Wuben website here.

Wurkkos TS22

23 comments

The TS22 is a very compact but high output general-purpose flashlight, running on a single included 21700 battery. It features a well-regulated and efficient boost circuit for maximum performance.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Upon my return to reviewing this year, I quickly discovered that Wurkkos is a well-regarded newer “budget” flashlight maker. Indeed, like Convoy and Sofirn, I soon started receiving user requests to review their lights as well. The Wurkkos TS22 was always on my radar, given my initial focus on compact, EDC-style 1×21700 lights. I’m pleased that Wurkkos agreed to send me this model for review.

Building on their earlier popular FC12 and TS21 models, the TS22 features the high-output XHP70.2 emitter, and is rated for max output up to 4500 lumens. Note that my sample has a neutral white colour temperature (5000K) while still rated at the same 4500 max lumens as the cool white (6000K) version. FYI, according to the Wurkkos website, I see a new XHP70.3 HI emitter option (in cool white only) is also now available.

That’s a lot in a compact light, so I’m curious to see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelTS22
EmitterXHP70.2
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)4,500
Min Output (Lumens)10
Max Runtime280 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)9,150 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)191 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)95 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length122 mm
Head Diameter28 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details





One thing you may notice is the packaging looks virtually identical to the Sofirn C8L I just reviewed. Indeed, there are many aspects to the lights that also seem identical (see Build details below), making it clear to me that Wurkkos and Sofirn are sharing the same manufacturing plant (at least for these two models). Researching online, it seems the two firms have an association, with Sofirn providing the contract manufacturing capabilities for Wurkkos (though Wurkkos is a separate company).

The second thing you’ll notice is that a corner of the box on this sample got heavily dented/damaged in shipping (it was just wrapped in a waterproof packaging with no extra protection). But that’s just fine – the box is made of very hard cardboard with cut-out form inserts inside, so nothing important got damaged.

The box comes with a lot of printed specs and a clear separation of items and components inside (reminds me a bit of modern cell phone packaging). Inside the box, I found:

  • Wurkkos TS22 flashlight, with stainless steel pocket clip attached
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. I particularly like the included bi-directional pocket clip, a nice touch given the low price.

Build


From left to right: Skilhunt 18650 (3500mAh), Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70 Mini, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, Acebeam E70, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Convoy S21E, Fenix E35 v3, Imalent MS03, Skilhunt H300, Skilhunt M300 V2, Wurkkos TS22.








The TS22 is a nice and solid build, with distinctive ridged cutouts along the body tube. This provides excellent grip without using actual knurling (and so, will be easier on fabric/clothes). Grip is especially good with the clip attached. It feels very solid and high quality, similar in handfeel to the Acebeam E70 (but a little smaller and lighter overall).

However, the light it most reminds me of is the Sofirn C8L that I recently reviewed. Just like I noted for the packaging above, I’m struck here by how the electronic switch cover looks and feels identical. The tailcap has the same battery orientation label (as well as the same body certification labels, the same heat warning on the head, etc). Even the base of the circuit board in the heads looks very similar. Although the actual ridge detailing is different, it is clear these two models are produced at the same manufacturing plant.

I am impressed with the physical build of this light. The bidirectional clip is a nice touch, and one I like seeing on a compact EDC-style light. The electronic switch has both green and red LEDs underneath, and light up to illustrate aspects of operation. I’m not crazy about the switch feel though – just like the C8L, I find there is just a bit too much play on the hard switch cover, and it’s possible that a glancing press may not properly connect. Note that like the Sofirn IF25A, you can activate a locator beacon function for the switch – but it is set by default to off on this light (see User Interface section for more info).

Tailstanding is very stable, thanks to the flat tailcap (there is a side cut-out to allow you thread the basic wrist lanyard through). Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap.

Note there is a magnet in the tailcap, allowing you stably mount the light horizontally (or upside-down) on any metal surface. Strength of the magnet is just about right in my view – enough to hold stably, but not as super-strong as some lights (e.g. Armytek, which tend to attract nearby metal objects).

The light’s USB-C charging port is located on the head opposite to the electronic switch. The port has a thick rubber cover. Just like the C8L, I found the cover to fit rather tightly, making it hard to full depress. But I suppose that should help with waterproofness if you can press it down enough.

Note that the light can roll easily if you take the pocket clip off, so I recommend you keep it on. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin – not as glossy as some, but not completely matte either. Its a nice package, comfortable and well-balanced in the hand with decent grip.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a small post in the head, ensuring good contact given the decently robust tailspring (which is often required to support higher current draws).



The TS22 uses a XHP70.2 emitter, coupled with a deep textured reflector (moderate orange peel, OP). As always, there is some colour shifting across the periphery of the beam (a well-known issue with XHP70.2 emitters). Unfortunately, this is accentuated by the purplish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens of my TS22 sample. That said, it’s still not as bad as some I’ve seen.

The bezel is crenelated bare aluminum – scalloping is not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably.

There is a very interesting option with this light, which is to turn on the switch indicator (green LED) when the battery and tailcap are connected. As I will explain below, this is a good way to give yourself an effective “moonlight” mode, depending on how you want to configure the UI.


Locator

The second pic above is a close-up on a white wall in the dark (not really this bright, using my cellphone’s auto-adjust mode). As you can see, the green is a bit uneven (i.e., center hotspot and semi-circular crescent below), but it does work well enough for dark-adapted eyes. Scroll down for more details on how to turn it on.

User Interface

Unlike the previous model it replaces, the TS22 is not using Anduril. Instead, it has its own customized user interface – which also has a lot of advanced features, and is at least comparable to many of the good quality Convoy and Sofirn lights.

To start, you have a choice between Stepped Ramping mode (default), or continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode. To switch between these modes, click 4 times when the light is On.

Stepped Ramping mode (default) levels: Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, and Strobe

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • 4 clicks: Manually activate Lock-out mode. Double-click to unlock.
  • 5 clicks: Set the switch indicator button to constant-on green, flashing green (roughly one quick flash every 2 secs), or off (default setting). The setting is memorized for when you next reconnect the battery/tailcap. This allows the switch LED to serve as a locator beacon for the flashlight, or an impromptu moonlight mode (see below). Note that setting either constant or flashing green disables the auto lock-out function (again scroll down for a discussion).

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle between Lo > Med > Hi (in sequence).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Note that doing a double-click from Turbo jumps you to Eco mode (which is odd, I would have expected it to jump back to whatever was previously memorized).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Switch between Stepped Ramping mode and Smooth Ramping mode

Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press-and-hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).

Smooth Ramping mode levels: continuously-variable ramp from the Eco-level to Turbo, and Strobe.

Smooth ramping functions basically the same as Stepped ramping above, with the same shortcuts to Eco, Turbo and Strobe. The main difference is that a press-and-hold of the switch when On smoothly ramps across the entire output range (from Eco through Turbo), rather than just the 3 discrete levels in Stepped Ramping.

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. The main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off by ~2.7V.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but an unusual one. After 3 minutes of inactivity, the light will automatically lock it itself out so that a single-click won’t activate (i.e., the same as if you did 4 clicks from Off to enter the lock-out state). When locked out, the main emitter just does a quick double-flash if you single-click the switch, to indicate the lock out status. I have to say this auto lock-out surprised me the first time it happened (which is what you get for not reading the manual, doh!). A double-click of the switch deactivates the lock-out, and let’s you use the light normally again.

Alternatively, you can do a twist loosen/tighten of the tailcap, which also resets and deactivates the lock-out. Or, you can turn on the locator feature for the button indicator, which also disables the auto lock-out.

Given the unusual standby current (see below), I recommend you always store the light physically locked-out by a twist of the tailcap. If you do this, then you have a great opportunity to add an additional “green moonlight” mode to the light by setting the switch indicator to constant green. Simply twist the tailcap tight to turn on the “green moonlight” indicator LED, and then then use the switch as you normally would to activate all the regular modes of the main emitter.

Note that setting either indicator disables the auto lock-out feature, and will result in a much fast standby drain (again, scroll down for details). But I find that it’s more versatile to have the switch indicator set to constant on, and physically lock out the light at the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

Yes. The LED under the switch indicates the battery status for the first ~5 secs after turning on:

  • Solid Green: >30% Battery power remaining
  • Solid Red: <30% Battery power remaining
  • Flashing Red: Battery critically low, recharge as soon as possible.

Regardless to how you have set the switch indicator, it does shut off after 5 secs of continuous main LED use.

I have to say, this doesn’t seem like the best range of power levels to indicate (personally, I liked the Sofirn C8L settings better). Also, I did notice some inconsistencies on my sample where a nearly-full cell would sometimes (infrequently) show red or even flashing red. Not sure why that happened.

Video Overview:

Please see the video below, which walks you through the UI and build features of this light:

Reviewer Comments:

The UI is surprisingly versatile, although it is a bit quirky in some of its settings. Case in point, automatically entering the lock-out mode after 3 mins is a new one for me, and was more annoying than practical during my testing. Ultimately not a huge deal for me, as I always store my lights locked out at the tailcap when not in use anyway. And as I explain above, this opens up the opportunity to effectively turn the switch LED into an ad hoc “green moonlight” mode, as this also disables the auto lock-out. It’s also unusual nowadays to be limited to a single disorienting strobe – I would prefer to see a slow signaling strobe/beacon.

Note there is one other interesting feature to the TS22 – the light remembers the state of the electronic switch, even if you break the current at the tailcap. So if the light were in the on-state and you twist the tailcap loose to turn off, the next time you twist it tight again the light comes on automatically. This is unusual, as most lights simply revert to the electronic off-state once current is broken. But it does add versatility here if you want to use the light as a twisty – you don’t need to also click the electronic switch again to activate.

All that said, there are a good range of options here, on par with the better budget makers. In particular, I also like the option of switching between discrete Stepped ramping and continuously-variable Smooth ramping.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Mid:
Mid

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no circuit noise on any level until Turbo, where you can see some high-frequency noise around 18 kHz. This is completely undetectable and not a concern.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 14 Hz every 1.75 secs or so. Very distracting.

There are no beacon or SOS modes.

Charging:

The switch button flashes red when the light is charging (roughly one second on, one second off). Switches to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The TS22 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when the cell is heavily discharged). Main charging rate is nice and high at 2A, which is good for a 21700 cell. Charging terminated at ~4.19V on my sample.

Note that the light can also serve as power bank to charge other USB-devices, like your cell phone. Simply plug the device into the USB-C power port, as shown below.

power bank

That’s a pretty impressive charge rate of 2.15A (shown charging my Samsung Galaxy S21+).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

In the default state (i.e., no switch LED indicator), I measured the standby current as fluctuating between ~100-110 uA, with periodic jumps every couple of seconds to 1.82 mA. I’m not sure why it keeps jumping to the higher level.

UPDATE July 6, 2023: I had initially speculated that this may have to do with the power bank feature (i.e., I wondered if it keeps checking to see if a device is connected for charging). But I have determined this is not the case. I have gone and measured the standby drain for over 3 mins, and found that the periodic jumps to 1.82mA stop as soon as the auto lockout engages. The light stays within ~100-110 uA from that point on – and yet the power bank feature still works just fine.

For a 5000mAh battery, that would mean a little under 5 and half years before the battery would be fully drained. This is very reasonable for the class, and not a major concern, but I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap to cut the current completely.

As a comparison, I decided to test the other two switch indicator states (i.e., flashing once every 2 secs, or constant-on green). Interestingly, the flashing mode is 1.82 mA during the off-state, with a jump to 3.60 mA every time the green light illuminates. And not surprisingly, the constant-on green LED is a constant 3.60 mA drain. Note those levels would result in a 5000 mAh battery being fully drained in just under 3 months and 2 months, respectively.

As explained above though, this does give you the option to basically take advantage of a “green moonlight” mode to the light, by activating the constant green indicator LED under the switch. Just use the tailcap as a “twisty” for on/off of the moonlight, and click the switch for main mode illumination. And I would say 2 months of constant moonlight output is not bad.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS22 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4765K, and the slight positive tint shift (+0.0091 Duv) to yellowish at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 67.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the neutral white XHP70.2 emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the TS22 is a very bright floody light, with a lot of output into the foreground. As expected, it doesn’t throw as far as the larger head-size lights.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS22 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco101010---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Low1009595---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Mid500565560---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
High1,8002,2002,100---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g4,7650.009167
Turbo4,5005,1504,80011,500 cd11,100 cd211 mYes18 KHz0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Strobe4,500-----6-12 HzNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---

This is a rare light where both my lightbox and my NIST-calibrated luxmeter actually report slightly higher output and beam distance measures than what the manufacturer reports. An impressive showing!

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

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Med

One thing these results make very clear: Wurkkos has invested in an excellent quality constant-current boost driver. This is evidenced by the simply outstanding output/runtime efficiency on the higher levels above – and the lack of a true Moonlight level. However, as I explained in the UI and Circuit Feature sections above, you can set the switch indicator to effectively function as a “green moonlight” mode. So you really can have the best of both worlds here!

I really am blown away by the performance above. The comparison to the Acebeam E70 is particularly telling, as the drop-down levels on the TSS22 Turbo/Hi, and the constant Med level, are basically identical to the E70 (facilitating direct comparisons). What you can see is that the TS22 is up to 20% more efficient than the E70 (!). This is shown by either longer runtime for the same output (i.e., Med), more output for equivalent runtime (i.e., on Hi), or a combination of the two (i.e., Turbo).

These results are all the more impressive when you consider the ~5000K neutral white emitter on my TS22 sample. In the past, it was common to see lower rated output on neutral white emitters compared to cool white ones (due to the extra phosphor required). I can only assume my TS22 sample must have a particularly good output bin, as I doubt the circuit driver alone would account for such an efficiency boost (i.e., Acebeam has very good drivers too in my experience). But I didn’t expect this best-of-class performance from a “budget” model!

I’ll be honest, I was initially doubting these results, thinking my lightbox sensor might a little too sensitive to warmer whites than cooler ones. But I confirmed the TS22 and E70 output levels by a ceiling bounce using my calibrated lux lightmeter, and everything tracks. And that same calibrated lightmeter also reports greater beam distance (compared to the rated specs), making me think I just happened to get a particular good TS22 sample and/or XHP70.2 5000K emitter.

The regulation pattern is also top notch, with perfectly flat outputs until the battery is nearly exhausted. At that point there is a distinctive rounded step-down pattern.

To better show the initial step-down pattern on Turbo/Hi, here is a expanded view of first few minutes of the runtimes:

Max-extended

Note again that all my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan. I have tested the light without it, and the TS22 simply steps down sooner – but to the same levels shown above.

The light is certainly well regulated at every level, with outstanding efficiency.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has outstanding output/runtime efficiency, best-in-class I've seen for a XHP70.2 emitter so far.User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class, but it does have a few unusual quirks (most especially auto lock-out, see the UI and circuit measures above for an explanation).
Circuit shows excellent regulation, with thermally-mediated ramp down on Turbo/High, and step-downs as the battery is almost drained.There are some minor tint shifts across the beam periphery (common on this emitter class).
By configuring the switch indicator LED for constant on, you can have an effective "green moonlight" mode.Light has a relatively high standby drain if the auto lockout is disabled by activating the indicator feature. In any case, I always recommend locking out at the tailcap when not in use.
Compact build with good quality and decent handfeel.
Includes a bidirectional pocket clip
Can function as a power bank, to charge external devices.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

Many of my observations of the Sofirn C8L are true here as well – consistent with their similar overall build quality and packaging (reflecting the common factory they are produced at, despite being different companies). There even seem to have exactly the same electronic switch cover (which is one minor negative for me – I find it a bit “soft” in feel).

But the TS22 is a stand out performer for the compact 1×21700 class – best-in-class output and overall efficiency to date in my testing. And with my preferred neutral white tint to boot! Regulation pattern is excellent as well, this light is an outstanding performer, and at a budget price. Of course, that kind of performance comes at a cost – the TS22 clearly has a strong boost circuit, which often means you have to sacrifice a main emitter moonlight mode. As with everything, there are trade-offs.

However, a saving grace here is the ability to activate the switch indicator green LED for constant-on when the battery is connected. Thus by simply connecting the light at the tailcap, you have an additional rudimentary “green moonlight” mode available to you. It’s good practice to get into locking out this light physically at the tailcap anyway (given the high relative standby current, presumably due to the innovative powerbank feature). And special bonus, using this constant-on indicator LED deactivates the auto-lock-out feature (which I found less than helpful anyway). So, a win-win all around.

The main beam pattern, while floody overall, is a bit more throwy than I expected for the size light and type of emitter – the reflector is relatively deep for the size. As with all XHP70.2 emitters, there is some tint shifting across the periphery of the beam (accentuated by the purplish AR coating here), but it is minor on my sample.

Wurkkos went with a custom user interface for this model. It has a decent number of customizable features, and is very reasonable for the class (i.e., similar or more advanced to many Convoy and Sofirn lights). Sure, it has a few quirks, but nothing you can’t get used to.

When considering all the considerable positives above, and the relatively minor issues, I think this light is worthy of a full 5 stars. Not something I give out often!

This is clearly a top pick for this class, and all for a budget price. Very impressive, and I look forward to trying out additional Wurkkos lights.

Acknowledgement

The TS22 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$45 USD (~$60 CDN). Wurkkos has provide me a 20% discount code to share with my readers, but their codes expire quickly (expected to expire in mid July): WURKKOS20 for use on their website here.

Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max

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The Wizard C2 Pro Max is a solidly-built headlamp running on a single included 21700 battery. Features a sophisticated user interface and innovative magnetic charging dock.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Following on my recent review of the 1×18650 Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, I also have on hand for the testing the larger 1×21700 Max edition of this light. Very similar in design and user interface (some small differences are noted below), this Max model features a truly warm-tinted XHP70.2 emitter. This should produce more output than the smaller Nichia version, but at the cost of reduced colour rendition.

As before, this is an angle head light (i.e., the emitter is on the side of the head). This design is very helpful when carrying the light clipped on you, or as a headlamp. Let’s see how it compares to its Nichia sibling, and the competition.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerArmytek
ModelWizard C2 Pro Max
EmitterXHP70.2
TintWarm
Max Output (Lumens)3,720
Min Output (Lumens)0.32
Max Runtime2 mos
Max Beam Intensity (cd)3,300 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)113 m
Mode Levels7
FlashingStrobe1, Strobe2, Strobe3
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)79 g
Weight (with battery)149 g
Length121.5 mm
Head Diameter34.4 mm
Body Diameter23.6 mm
WaterproofIP68 10m

Armytek doesn’t provide an exact colour temperature for “warm light”, but it is quite  warm in tint to my eye, much warmer than the more neutral white tint of the Nichia model (see Beamshots and Emitter Measures below). I would definitely characterize this light as warm white.

Package Details

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The Wizard C2 Pro Max ships in a cardboard display box with an extensive number of labels and descriptions. Inside, you will find the following:

  • Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max flashlight
  • Stainless steel pocket clip
  • Magnetic USB charging dock
  • 21700 battery (5000mAh)
  • 18650 battery adapter
  • Headband and rubber headlamp mount
  • Bicycle mount
  • 2 spare O-rings
  • Adhesive tape strip (3M)
  • Manual

It’s a very good package of accessories, identical to its smaller sibling except the addition of the 18650 battery adapter here (a nice feature, if you wanted to swap in a smaller and lighter cell).

As before, the multi-lingual manual is really more of a quick-start guide, and there is a slightly more detailed full manual that you can download from the Armytek website (direct PDF link here). I recommend you download the longer manual in order to take full advantage of all the features and better understand the user interface.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.

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This physical build is basically identical to the 1×18650 Nichia version, just on a larger scale. As I said before, I find it very reminiscent of the early bomb-proof Armyteks – it feels very solid in the hand. That said, is also reasonably compact for the 1×21700 class.

The anodizing looks exactly like the old matte finish of early Armyteks, very grippy (almost feels rubberized in a way).  It appears to be thick and durable – although I find it also marks up easily (i.e., not scratched down to the bare aluminum, but shows handling marks on the surface). I guess its fair to say Armytek sees their lights as work-horses, not show-horses.

The light lacks traditional knurling, but the ridge details cut-outs and grippy finish help produce good hand grip in my view. The pocket clip attaches very firmly (likely to mark upon removal) and helps further with grip (and clip-on carry of course).

The main distinctive feature is the angle-head light source. As mentioned above, this is very helpful as a headlamp, bicycle light or when clipping onto you. It’s also reasonable to carry this way by hand, especially given the large button on the size of the head (i.e., can easily use your thumb to activate the switch). Switch feel is good, with a definite click upon press.

There is a green/red LED under the switch cover that can signal the status of the light. By default, it flashes red once when the switch is clicked (or glows red when doing a press-and-hold). You can configure it to flag a green locator beacon once every four secs if you wish (see UI section below). It also serves as a low battery and heat warning, as also described in the UI section.

The light lacks a USB-C charging port on the body, but there is a USB-based magnetic charging dock that charges the light through the tailcap (scroll down to my Circuit section for more details on how it works). The light uses a standard flat-top 21700 cell (Armytek-branded 5000mAh in this case), so can easily be swapped out and charged in a stand-alone charger. And thanks to the included 18650 battery adapter, you you can easily run 18650 cells in this light.

Note that this charging format means that there are exposed contact points on the tailcap. However, the center contact is sufficiently recessed (and small enough) to avoid any likely problems.

The magnet is located in the tailcap (and is not user-removable). It is also very strong, and so may attract metal objects. Of course that means you can also attach it to metal surfaces to stand it as a worklight.

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The light uses a warm white tinted XHP70.2 emitter, under a textured TIR optic. The specs claim a 110 degree hotspot and a 150 degree spill, but there is no sharp demarcation between them – this produces a very even and wide flood light. Scroll down to the Emitter measures section for a tint/CRI discussion.

The head has a flat stainless steel bezel ring.

User Interface

The user interface (UI) of this light is very similar the 1×18650 Nichia version, with a few tweaks. The main difference is that you are missing the ~1.0 lumen Firefly2 mode of that model (the brighter Firefly3 of that model has been renamed as Firefly2 here).

On the whole, I find the Armytek UI a bit complex, and somewhat reminiscent of the second generation of the inaugural model of Armytek, the Predator. Just like that earlier light, you will need to download the full manual from Armytek to learn how to use it fully (i.e., the bundled manual is more just to get you started). The detailed manual is available from the website’s product page (downloadable as PDF here). You can also follow the link from the QR code on the box, which takes you to main product page. I don’t understand why they don’t provide this better manual with the light itself, as you are likely going to find it frustrating trying to figure it out all the features from the incomplete quick-start guide alone.

That said, even the full manual doesn’t do a great job of fully explaining the implementation of the UI (although if you follow the instructions, you will likely figure it out for yourself). But to help you out, let me try to break it all down for you.

Note that if you are more of a visual learner, you can skip to the end of this section for a video overview describing how the UI works.

To start, you can switch between two types of operation mode sets (with different mode groups available) – the General UI and the Advanced UI. To do this, unscrew the tailcap by a quarter turn with the flashlight off. Then press-and-hold the button while you tighten the tailcap. The light is set by default at the factory to General UI.

General UI Operation

The General UI gives you access to both Firefly modes (Firefly1 and Firefly2), all three Main modes (Main1, Main2, Main3), but only one Turbo mode (Turbo2 by default – although you can change this to Turbo1 by going through the Advanced UI, as I’ll explain later). Note the strobe modes are not available in the General UI.

General UI, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns On in Firefly1 and cycles through the two Firefly modes followed by the three Main modes, and then continues to loop through the Main modes (you select by releasing the switch). So, sequence is: Firefly1 > Firefly2 > Main1 > Main2 > Main3 > Main1 > Main2 > Main3 > Main 1 > etc.
  • Single-click: Turns On in the last used mode (the specific six constant modes described in the opening paragraph are all available to be memorized, including Turbo).
  • Double-click: Nothing (i.e., just turns On and then Off again – but scroll down to see what happens when already On).
  • Multiple clicks (3 or more): Nothing, the light simply turns Off and back On with successive clicks.

General UI, from ON:

  • Press-and-hold: If you are currently in a Firefly mode, it will cycle through the Firefly modes and then through all the Main modes, with in a repeating loop of Main modes (i.e., the same as press-and-hold from Off). If you are in the Main mode or Turbo mode, press-and-hold will cause it to cycle through the Main modes only.
  • Single-click: Turns the light Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo (assuming you are not already in Turbo – in which case, it jumps back to last mode used before entering Turbo).
  • Multiple clicks (3 or more): Nothing, the light will just turn Off and back On.

This is a bit of an unusual arrangement, but it’s not that hard to get used to. I recommend you think of this General UI as fundamentally a press-and-hold interface, with single- and double-click offering access to the last memorized level and toggling to/from the Turbo level, respectively. The main tweak that I would have liked to see is a more consistent implementation of press-and-hold when On (i.e., I would like to have it always cycle through Firefly, not just when starting in Firefly) – but that’s just personal preference.

Note that General UI lacks the Strobe modes and Turbo 1 (although you can switch the default Turbo level by programming in Advanced UI if you want). General UI should work well for most users right out of the box.

Advanced UI Operation

This is not well explained in the manual, although the information is technically all there.  Simply put, Advanced UI gives you access to 4 defined Mode Group sets that you can choose between, as well as the ability to cycle through a larger subset (but not all) of the constant output modes.

Available to you in the defined Mode Group sets are both Firefly levels in the Firefly Mode Group (Firefly1, Firefly2), all three Main levels in Main Mode Group (Main1, Main2, Main3), both Turbo levels in Turbo Mode Group (Turbo1, Turbo2), and all three strobes in the Strobe Mode Group (Strobe1, Strobe2, Strobe3). The various Mode Groups are typically accessed by multiple clicks from either On or Off as described below (except for Firefly modes which are accessed by a press-and-hold, with additional modes).

In addition, when you activate the light in Advanced UI by a press-and-hold it will run through the first six constant output modes from Firefly1 up to Turbo1. Again, this is the only way to access Firefly modes (basically, think of this ramp as Firefly plus Main and some Turbo).

Advanced UI, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns the light On, and runs through the first 6 constant output modes in sequence from Firefly1 to Turbo1, on a repeating loop (i.e., no more excluding Firefly modes after the first round, as General UI does). All modes except Turbo2 and the three Strobe modes are on this repeating sequence. When you release the switch on any level, you are now in that Mode Group set if you press-and-hold again (i.e., the light will only cycle through the levels of that Mode Group set now). So, for example, if you release the switch on Turbo1, a subsequent press-and-hold of the switch will cycle between the two Turbo modes in this Mode Group.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last used mode (note that mode memory now applies to Strobe as well as all constant output modes).
  • Double-click: Turns On in the Main Mode Group
  • Triple-click: Turns On in the Turbo Mode Group
  • 4 clicks: Turns On in the Strobe Mode Group
  • Multiple clicks (5+): Nothing (i.e., light will just activate in the Strobe Mode Group)

Advanced UI, from ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Light will cycle through the levels in the current Mode Group only.
  • Single-click: Turns the light Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to the Main Mode Group (or jumps down to Firefly1 if already in Main Mode Group).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to the Turbo Mode Group (or does nothing if light is already in Turbo Mode Group).
  • 4 clicks: Jumps to the Strobe Mode Group (or does nothing if light is already in Strobe Mode Group). Note this means that you have to double-click or triple-click to exit Strobe modes when On (or turn Off and then press-and-hold when turning back On).
  • Multiple clicks (5+): Nothing, it just jumps Strobe mode and stays there (i.e., acts as 4 clicks).

Note that the light will memorize the last Turbo mode you used (i.e., Turbo1 or Turbo2).  If you revert back to General UI, it will continue to use that memorized Turbo mode. So this is how you can program the lower Turbo1 in the General UI if you wish.

I personally prefer Advanced UI over General UI, for the more consistent implementation of press-and-hold from Off (i.e., repeatedly cycles a wider set of modes, including Firefly levels). However, you have to remember to triple-click for Turbo now. Also, when On, you are limited to only cycling through your current Mode Group with a subsequent press-and-hold. But it’s easy enough to remember to turn Off and start a press-and-hold again to access the other modes.

What I don’t like in Advanced UI is the inconsistent effect of multiple clicks when On. The first time I activated Strobe mode for example, it took me a while to figure out how to get out (i.e., only double- or triple-click will exit, unless you turn off and reset by a press-and-hold as I prefer). This is not entirely intuitive, and at a minimum I would have liked for the same number of clicks to enter a Mode Group also be used to consistently exit it. But on the plus side, Strobes are reasonably well hidden if you don’t want to bother with them at all in Advanced UI. And you can always stick with General UI if you really don’t like it.

In terms of the strobes, I do like the slow signaling strobes here, with both high and low power (especially as a bike light).

Standby Indicator:

As mentioned in the build section, you can toggle on a standby indicator that briefly flashes the green LED under the switch cover once every four seconds. You do this in a similar way to how you switch between General UI and Advanced UI, but with an extra step: loosen the tailcap a quarter turn, hold down the button, tighten the tailcap AND then immediately loosen the tailcap a quarter turn. I haven’t measured the standby drain in this mode, but I suspect its pretty minimal.

Shortcuts:

Rather then go through it all again, please see above for how all the clicks and press-and-holds work in the two UI.  In simple terms, press-and-hold from Off is necessary to first access Firefly modes, and multiple clicks are necessary to access Turbo from either On or Off.

Mode Memory:

Yes. The light remembers the last mode used and returns to it (constant output modes only in General UI, all modes including Strobes in Advanced UI). Memory mode persists, even with a battery change.

Lock-out Mode:

Yes. Simply unscrew the tailcap a quarter turn. Even though the tailcap has non-anodized threads, it does turn Off while unscrewing from fully tight.

Low battery warning:

Yes. The switch indicator will signal the battery status once the cell is <25% (at which  point, it will flash orange every 2 seconds). Once the battery is <10%, it will flash red every second.

High temperature warning:

The switch indicator will also signal a high temperature warning, with 3 orange flashes every 2 secs. If heat is critical, it will flash red 3 times every second, and the brightness level will automatically step down.

According to the manual, the brightness decreases once the light approaches 58 degrees Celsius.

Reviewer Comments:

This is a sophisticated interface, with a lot of extra bells-and-whistles (in terms of mode groupings, standby and battery/heat indicators, etc.). It is a bit confusing to configure initially, and there are some inconsistencies in how features are implemented across UI Mode Group sets (i.e., which modes are included in a ramp, exact number of clicks to access or exit a given Mode set, etc.). And since this is not completely clear in the manual (even the extended manual online), you are likely need to refer the UI instructions here to reprogram.

But that’s really more of a quibble – any sophisticated UI is going to have complexities and inconsistencies that won’t please everyone. Once you decide which interface you want – the default General UI or the Advanced UI, you should be able to get used to things fairly quickly.  And again, I like to think of this light as fundamentally a press-and-hold style light for selecting modes, with the clicks really about shortcuts or group selections.

To help you see how all that works in practice, I’ve posted a video to my YouTube channel (@cpfselfbuilt) demonstrating the UI in practice:

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Main1:
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There is no sign of PWM or circuit noise at any level. The light appears to be fully constant-current controlled. 🙂

Strobe:

Strobe3:

Strobe2:

Strobe1:

Strobe3 frequency is a fast 9.7 Hz, at full power (Turbo2). Fairly disorienting.

Strobes1 and 2 are slow signaling strobes, both at 1 Hz. Strobe 2 is full power (Turbo2), whereas Strobe 1 is reduced to the Main2 level.

This is basically unchanged from the Nichia version.

Charging:
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Max
Max

The charging dock is identical to the smaller Nichia version of this light – they can be used interchangeably for the two models.

As previously noted, charging this light is a little unusual. The magnetic charging base will snap on the tailcap snugly, and initiate the charge. The power LED glows red when charging, and the battery LED glows green when done (or when the dock is disconnected). The green LED will flash for a few second when first connecting, as it evaluates the charge status of the battery. Note that it will not initiate a charge if the cell is >4.0V resting (i.e., the charging status stays green).

There is also an orange blinking error feature apparently, but I haven’t seen it – it occurs if the charging source is incapable of providing enough power. Solid orange means it is charging at a reduced current.

Note: You need to unscrew the tailcap a quarter-turn, to lock out the light first, in order to charge it. If you try to charge with the tailcap fully connected, you will get a flashing red error light on the charging base. This is a very unusual design.

Resting voltage <3.0V
Max

Resting voltage >3.0V
Max

Just like the Nichia version, the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max shows an initial low initial charging current of ~0.13A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), which jumps up to ~1.0A once the cell is >3.0V resting. This two-current charging is a good design, and indicates a safe integrated charging circuit. While this max charging rate is very reasonable for a 18650 battery, I do find it a little low for the 21700 bundled here. But this is another sign they are using very much the same charging control circuit.

In my testing, once charging begins it will fully charge the cell up ~4.19V resting at termination. However, as mentioned earlier (and like the Nichia version) it will not initiate a charge above ~4.0V resting. You will need to use a stand-alone charger if you wish to top-up you cells within the ~4.0-4.2V range.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 8.8 uA.

Like its smaller sibling, this is completely negligible, and not a concern (i.e., it would take many years to drain the cell). Nevertheless, I always recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap when not in use, to prevent accidental activation and cut the standby drain. A quarter turn twist of the tail will lock out this light, despite the lack of anodized screw threads. Note the charger feature still works when the light is locked out (indeed, it only works when the light is locked out, which is pretty unique).

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~3585K, and the moderately positive tint shift (+0.0083 Duv) to yellow at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 77.

These values seem reasonable for a warm-tinted XHP70.2 emitter (which tend toward positive Duvs at all CCTs), and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


It is an interesting beam pattern for these Armytek lights; a very even flood beam. The Max version here has a slightly wider spill than the Nicha version, with even less demarcation from spot to spill. I think it could make a good bicycle light, for general illumination in the immediate foreground.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

Wizard C2 Pro Max Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Firefly10.320.30.3---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Firefly24.388---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main1424141---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main2140150150---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main3420430430---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Turbo11210-8401,4001,350---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Turbo23,720-8403,9503,8501,710 cd1,670 cd82 mNoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe1140-----1.0 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe23,720-----1.0 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe33,720-----9.7 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g

It’s great to see the multiple Moonlight/Firefly modes here, especially the ultra-low Firefly1 at <0.1 lumens (not sure why we have lost the ~1.0 Firefly2 mode from the Nichia model though). Spacing of modes is very good, with a great range of levels across the whole dynamic range.

At 82g/150g (without/with battery), the Wizard C2 Pro Max is noticeably heavier than the smaller Nichia model (which weighed in at 113g with battery). This may an issue for some in using the Max version as a headlamp (although it will translate into longer runtime as a bike light).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

To start, let’s see how the 1×21700 Max version compares to the 1×18650 Nichia version:

Hi

Med

Basically, the circuit regulation and performance is identical – although of course the larger Max version produces more output for equivalent runtime (or longer runtime for equivalent output), consistent with the XHP70.2 emitter and larger capacity cell.

And now how the Max version compares to the 21700 competition:

Max

Hi

Med

And here’s a blow-up of the first few mins, so you can see the initial Turbo step-down better:

Max

The Wizard C2 Pro Max shows excellent efficiency and regulation at all levels tested, consistent with its smaller sibling, and exactly in the same range as other XHP70.2 lights with very good efficiency circuits. It shows a very controlled step-down pattern as the battery nears exhaustion. I find this result particularly impressive, given warmer tints tend to show lower efficiency (due to the extra phosphor added compared to cool white emitters).

Note that the Turbo2 level steps down a little sooner than the Nichia version did at around 1min to a ~800 lumen level, compared to the ~1350 lumen Turbo1 level. Unless you really need the super high output of Turbo2 for that short length of time, you may find Turbo1 more generally useful (I know I do).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Excellent current-controlled efficiency, with stable regulation in all modes.User interface is a little unusual, with two distinct UIs with differing mode group sets (with some shortcut inconsistencies between).
Textured optic provides an extremely floody beam, with no real hotspot.Charging dock requires tailcap to be loosened, and won't initiate a charge when cell is >4.0V resting.
Great overall range of output levels, with true Moonlight modes.Need to keep tailcap and screw threads very clean, or you can get some flickering on the highest level.
Compact and easy to activate with a single large button, and a number of warning/notification modes available.
Included high-capacity battery with custom USB charging dock (magnetic).

A neutral comment is that the Wizard C2 Pro Max is an angle-head light – which is beneficial when using as a headlamp or clip-on light, but is different from most other lights.

More significantly, the first sample of the Max that Armytek sent me was defective on Turbo2. It had greatly reduced output from the start, and quickly developed a persistent flicker on this level that wouldn’t go away. The replacement sample worked perfectly from the beginning.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

This is another strong showing from Armytek. Like its smaller sibling the 1×18650 Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, this is a powerful and versatile flood light, with a lot going for it.

Angled flood lights have a lot of very practical uses, especially for up-close work or in the near field. Of course, this is also a very high-output light, so it can light up a much wider range than typical. It’s a bit heavy for a headlamp, but the headband holds it in place well. The relatively warm tint is convenient for outdoor use – although I prefer both the neutral white tint and the much higher CRI of the Nichia version. Still, I can see this making an outstanding bike light.

Like its junior version, the performance of the circuit was outstanding – excellent regulation and output/runtime efficiency at all level tested. Given the relatively small thermal mass however, it needs to step down quickly on max (Turbo2). So here again, I recommend Turbo1 as a more practical high output level.

The build has the same solid and rugged feel as the Nichia version, with Armytek’s classic grippy matte finish. Switch action is good, and the status LEDs under the switch serve multiple uses. The charging dock is a little unusual in that it needs the tailcap loosened (and won’t initiate a charge >4.0V resting). Note that this is exactly the same dock as the 1×18650 Nichia version –  and hence, the same charging characteristics.

Mode level spacing is good, although for some reason you don’t have the ~1 lumen Firefly2 level here (you still have the <1 lumen Firefly1). The user interface is a bit complex with its General and Advanced UIs and mode sets, but you can quickly get used to it.

I had initially given the Nichia version 4.5 stars, knocking off half a star for the UI complexity and charging dock quirks. But I have since reconsidered that light as a true 5 star, since the UI isn’t that hard to get used to. In comparison, I think this Max version is more appropriate 4.5 light, given the lower CRI, missing Firefly2, and low (relative) charging rate. But it’s still a great light – and may be better suited to you if you need the great output and/or runtime.

Another strong contender in the full flood family of lights!

Acknowledgement

The Wizard C2 Pro Nichia was provided for review by Armytek. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$95 USD (~$125 CDN).

Armytek is offering a 15% discount code to readers of my website, please use code flashlightreviews15 when checking out of the Armytek.com website.

Convoy M21F

2 comments

The M21F is a general-purpose style flashlight, with moderately high output and reasonable throw, running on a single 21700 battery. Features a decent user interface and good current-controlled circuitry.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Upon my recent return to reviewing, the compact 1×21700 Convoy S21E was my first foray into budget models. That light was my first experience of this maker, which was very positive. So I decide to pick up their larger, budget thrower in this 1×21700 class, the M21F.

At the time when I ordered this sample, there was an option for the Luminus SFT40 or Osram CULNM1.TG emitters (both suitable for maximum throw), or the higher output Cree XHP70.2 – with all emitters available in a variety of colour temperatures. Although I expect the SFT40 and Osram emitters would do well in this build, I decided to go for the maximum output to see how it compares to other XHP70.2 lights.

I note this light is now available with the XHP70.3 HI emitter, which might be a good compromise to consider (i.e., greater throw and less chromatic variation for a little less overall output).

Anyway, let’s see how this XHP70.2 version performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerConvoy
ModelM21F
EmitterXHP70.2
Tint6500K
Max Output (Lumens)4,000
Min Output (Lumens)-
Max Runtime-
Max Beam Intensity (cd)-
Max Beam Distance (m)-
Mode Levels5 + Ramp
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)145 g
Weight (with battery)210 g
Length143.8 mm
Head Diameter40 mm
Body Diameter27.5 mm
WaterproofIPX4

Package Details

(edited) 20221229_103547

Like the S21E, the M21F is shipped in a simple cheap cardboard box, wrapped in thin bubble wrap. Inside, you will find the following:

  • Convoy S21E with a thin wrist lanyard, also attached
  • If you buy the version with a battery included, a thin filter pad is included to block contact during shipping

And that’s it. There is no manual or instruction sheet, so you’ll need to check out reviews like this to learn how it works and what all the features are. Minimalist to be sure, in keeping with the price.

Build

20230402_162025
From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.

(edited) 20221229_104102
20221229_104050
20221229_104034
(edited) 20221229_103936
(edited) 20221229_103608
(edited) 20221229_103626
20221229_104241
20221229_104214
(edited) 20221229_103753
(edited) 20221229_103811

The M21F is larger than its compact S21E cousin, a more “typical” size for a general purpose thrower light. It look more polished and substantial than the S21E.

The electronic switch is more refined here, with a small button with rubberized grip with an integrated clear ring (that shows charging status), along with a stylish blue bezel ring. Button feel is good, with a defined click. There are dim couloured LEDs under the switch which can produce a red, orange or green colour during charging. A more sophisticated implementation than the S21E build for sure (but see below, for my charging experience).

There is a small raised post on the positive contact terminal in the head, so flat top cells can easily be used. Tailcap is flat with a standard spring and retaining ring. Note that like my first S21E sample, the silver-coloured spring included here is fairly stiff, and resulted in some denting of the positive terminal of the battery. I know these springs were replaced with softer gold-coloured ones on later S21E editions.

There is an integrated USB-C charging port on the head of the light, across from the switch, under an attached rubber cover. Cover fits well enough to make me think the light is fairly water-resistant.

The light doesn’t have knurling per se, but rather a series of deep cut-outs with concentric circle “reeling.” I found grip to be pretty good on this model, as the reeling is deeper and more aggressive – better than on the thinner S21E body. The larger head, with cut-out fins, also helps with grip. Wrist lanyard is pretty cheap, and introduces a slight tailstand wobble the way it is attached be default – I recommend you re-thread it to the side cutouts on the tailcap (which is presumably why they are there, to prevent interference with tailstanding).

The light has a distinctive gun-metal blue annodizing, in a satin finish. Anodizing looks to be decent quality, although there are a few small chips on some of the raised reeling rings on the body tube on my sample (making me thing this is indeed type II annodizing, as is common on budget lights). Tailcap screw threads are square-cut and anodized, so you can lock out the light by a twist of the tailcap. Screw threads on the head are not anodized (and don’t need to be).

Any regular-sized 21700 cell (without an integrated USB-C charger) should fit and work in the light. You are best sticking with flat-top cells though, as longer cells (i.e., with a button top) would likely be too tight given the strong tail spring.

A solid build with good hand feel, it certainly feels like a higher-end budget build.

20221229_104007
20221229_104019
(edited) 20221229_104141

The XHP70.2 version here comes with a heavily textured reflector (I believe the SFT40 version comes with a smooth reflector). Reflector is quite deep, which should provide good throw.

The mineral glass lens has a light greenish AR coating, which I prefer. Bezel is stainless steel with crenelations. Not overly aggressive, but I’m sure it would hurt if you were hit with it.

I’m not doing white wall beamshots any more, but I did notice a rather yellowish corona around the hotspot, progressing well into the mid-spillbeam range on my sample. You see it even in the simple desktop shot above. In practice though, it is really only noticeable on a white wall though. This is a common occurrence with XHP70.2 emitters.

User Interface

The M21F has the exact same user interface that I described on the S21E. It has a choice of two distinct multiple-output mode sets you can select: one with a smooth ramp in output from min to max, and one with four discrete steps (1%, 10%, 40%, 100%/Turbo) plus a 0.2%/Moonlight level. Also available is a “Tactical” mode which only has the Turbo level. A strobe mode is also available, along with some other bonus features.

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Moonlight
  • Single-click: Turns on to the memorized brightness level
  • Double-click: Turbo
  • Triple-click: Strobe
  • 4 clicks: set to Tactical mode (i.e., only momentary 100% brightness)
  • 5 clicks: Voltage check. The light will blink out the voltage to one decimal place, first by the main volt, then by the decimal point (e.g., 3 blinks, a pause, and five more blinks would mean 3.5V).
  • 6 clicks: Switch between ramping mode and stepped mode
  • 10 clicks: Electronic lock out. Click for another 10 times to re-activate the light. Note that I suggest you simply lock the light out by a twist of the tailcap instead.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold (in Ramping mode set): Ramp up to 100%/Turbo. Press-and-hold again to ramp down to 0.2%/Moonlight. Release at any time to select the desired level. Note that when you restart the ramp after selecting a level, it reverses direction on the next press and hold.
  • Press-and-hold (in Stepped mode set): Step up to next level (4 main levels on the sequence, Moonlight is not on the main sequence). Press-and-hold again to step down in levels.
  • Single-click: Off
  • Double-click: Turbo
  • 3 clicks: Strobe
  • 5 clicks: Voltage check
  • 6 clicks: Switch between ramping mode and stepped mode

Shortcuts:

  • To Moonlight: Press-and-hold from off
  • To Turbo: Double-click from any mode except Tactical
  • To Strobe: Triple-click from any mode except Tactical

Mode memory:

Yes. The M21F will memorize any brightness level except for Moonlight and Strobe.

Low voltage warning:

Yes. The light will drop down to ~1% output and the switch surround will blink red before eventually shutting off at ~3V. Note that it can run for a very long time at this level before shutting down.

Reviewer Comments:

As before, I find this to be a very decent and versatile interface – easy to use, but with a decent number of options. Hand the light to someone, and it wouldn’t take them long to get used to it, the modes make a lot of sense. Switching between ramping and stepped mode sets is a bit peculiar with the six clicks, but it’s not something you will want to switch between often anyway.

Note that the Turbo mode steps down automatically after a period of time (scroll down for runtimes). And while I’m glad to see the extra ultra-low mode here, it is not actually low enough to be what I would consider a true Moonlight (see Testing Results for more info).

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM at any level – the light appears to be current-controlled. However, I did detect a faint oscillating noise pattern on two of the discrete levels, 10% and 40%, but not on the 1% or Turbo levels.

Step 40%
M21F-40

Step 10%
M21F-10

Step 1%
M21F-1

The frequency was 1 kHz on the 10/40% levels, and this is not visible in actual use. I am simply including the scope readings for completeness.

Strobe:

Strobe
M21F-Strobe

Strobe frequency is a fast 10.1 Hz, the same as the S21E.

Charging:
(edited) 20230420_193744
M21F-charging1

The M21F has a single high-current charging rate of ~2.1A.

I normally like a two-stage charging feature (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when cells are heavily discharged). But the M21F’s output drops down to a super low mode when the battery is running low, and big red button flashes incessantly, warning you to shut down. In fact, it is actually very hard to get the cell below ~3.0V in this light . As such, this is reasonable compromise to stick with a single high charging rate integrated charger.

There was an issue with the charging feature on my sample. The charger would never go green, even with >12 hours plugged in. It progressed from red to orange as the battery charged, but the cell would always max out at ~4.12V, according to my voltmeter. It seems the integrated charger won’t go any higher on my sample. I tried other batteries, and the effect was the same – the charger terminates at ~4.12V, leaving the battery not quite fully charged (and the charging LED showing charge still in progress). I suspect this is just a quirk of my one sample

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current at a negligible 39.5 uA on my sample.

This is nice and ultra-low standby current, and is not a concern for draining the cells. However, I always suggest you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation (and cut the negligible standby drain in this case). A single twist of the tail will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~6725K, and the very slight positive tint shift (+0.0036 Duv) to green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 76.

These values are consistent with a cool white XHP70.2 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



The beam pattern is good, with a nice mix of throw and spill (and the mild colour distortion around the hotspot is not noticeable in actual use outdoors). I would be curious to see how far it throws with a smooth reflector and smaller emitter.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

M21F Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Moon 0.2%-1919---NoNo2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g
1%-3636---NoNo2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g
10%-445445---No0.99 kHz2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g
40%-1,1001,100---No0.99 kHz2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g
Turbo 100%4,0003,1003,00020,200 cd19,400 cd279 mNoNo2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g
Strobe------10.0 Hz10.0 Hz2.1 A2.1 A39.5 uA150 g219 g

Max output is much lower than the claimed specs (which I expect are theoretical “emitter lumens” and not actual ANSI FL-1 output lumens). The lowest mode is closer to 0.5%, so there no “Moon” mode here, just a reasonable low.

The M21F is also the second heaviest light in my line-up above. The larger mass should help with managing heat dissipation.

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

MS03-Max

MS03-Hi

M212F-Med

As you can see above, the M21F is very well regulated, with very flat output at all levels tested.

Overall efficiency is excellent, pretty much exactly on par with the much more expensive Acebeam E70 (which also uses the XHP70.2). Convoy is obviously sourcing excellent circuit components.

Here is a blow-up for the first few mins of runtime on Turbo, so you can see the step-down more clearly in comparison to the other lights:

M21F-Max-extended

It is a good implementation of a step-down feature on Turbo, with a nice steady ramp down to the intermediate ~1700 lumen level beginning after 4 mins on max. I suspect the larger thermal mass is helping here.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Excellent output/runtime efficiency and regulation, on par with much more expensive brands.Even with the textured reflector, beam shows a lot of colour variation in the corona and mid-spillbeam with this XHP70.2 emitter.
Decent beam profile with this emitter. However, this build is probably best suited to a smaller die emitter for maximum throw (or the newer XHP70.3 HI option).Charger on my sample never goes green, (always shows as charging). Max charged battery voltage is only ~4.12V.
Good hand feel, with decent grip and nice implementation of an electronic switch.My sample came with a dented positive terminal on the battery, similar to my early S21E model (corrected on that series over time).
A very decent user interface, intuitive yet with a good number of options.Lacks a Moonlight mode, and max output is well below stated specs (but still reasonable for the class).

Another minor issue I noted is the ramping speed is rather quick. But given how few lights actually give you a choice of a continuous ramp option, this is hardly a complaint!

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The M21F shows all the best characteristics of the S21E, in a more substantial build. It definitely has a more “classy” look and feel, and I particularly like the implementation of electronic switch on this model. A pity that the charger on my sample seems to terminate early, but I suspect that is an odd quirk of this one sample.

Circuit performance – in terms of regulation pattern and output/runtime efficiency – is excellent, on par with more expensive current-controlled lights. As before, I find the discrete levels are not really well spaced – but you always have the ramping mode available instead. And again, “Moonlight 0.2%” is really just a low mode (but to be honest, I’m not really looking for Moonlight in a thrower build).

Also as before, there are some minor issues I noticed on my sample, in keeping with the budget price. None of these are deal-breakers for me, but it does mean the light tops out at 4 stars in my view. The larger thermal mass here is definitely helpful though, in terms of supporting greater output for as long as possible.

Although it was good to be able to gauge max output performance with the XHP70.2 emitter, I regret not having the chance test the throw of one of the smaller profile emitters, like the SFT40. Given that the compact 1×21700 lights typically do a great job serving as general purpose lights, most people probably want to go with maximum throw on this build – especially given that deep reflector. And so, given the new XHP70.3 HI option available now, I think that is a great option to consider in this build.

Certainly a lot of good choices to consider in this budget thrower build!

Acknowledgement

The M21F was personally purchased from the Convoy store on Aliexpress in the fall of 2022. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$40 USD (~$60 CDN) with a bundled battery (and depending on emitter chosen).

Imalent MS03

One comment
  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

When I saw the specs for this light, I couldn’t quite believe it – 13,000 lumens on a single cell? Although that is theoretically possible with 3x Cree XHP70.2 LEDs, it wouldn’t likely last for long in a compact 1×21700 light.

But Imalent has pushed the envelope before with some distinctive and unusual lights, so I was willing to give this one a shot. Let’s see how it does in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerImalent
ModelMS03
Emitter3xXHP70.2
Tint-
Max Output (Lumens)13,000
Min Output (Lumens)150
Max Runtime27 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)26,320 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)324 m
Mode Levels6
Flashing-
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)117 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length110 mm
Head Diameter36 mm
Body Diameter27 mm
WaterproofIPX-8 2m

Package Details

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The MS03 box has a good number of labels, describing everything you are getting and what to expect. Inside the stiff cardboard box with closing flap you will find the following:

  • Imalent MS03 flashlight
  • Imalent 21700 4000mAh high-drain battery
  • Pocket clip
  • Lanyard
  • Holster
  • USB-C Charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings

It’s a nice package, with everything you need to use the light. I’m particular glad to see the belt holster, since those are very rare nowadays. Note that you need to use the bundled high-drain 21700 battery if you want to be able to access the highest modes.

Build

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From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.

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The MS03 is smaller than than I expected – as you can tell from the pics above, it is quite short (the second shortest 1×21700 I’ve tested so far). The head is a bit wider than typical, but that’s not surprising given the 3x XHP70.2 emitters in there.

There is a side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the light near the head, with a stainless steel switch cover. Feel and traverse of the switch is good, and easy to activate (i.e., works even if you don’t hit it straight-on). User interface is very straightforward (scroll down for details). Note that it wouldn’t be hard to accidentally activate the light, so I strongly recommend you keep the light stored locked out at the tailcap. A simple twist of the tailcap will do the job, thanks to the anodized screw threads. And thanks to the flat tailcap, the light can tailstand stably.

The knurling on the body is not very aggressive at all, but with the various rings and cut-outs on the head, overall grip is reasonable. I recommend you attach the pocket clip to further help with grip. The clip is not reversible, and can only be used for head-up carry. Note that the clip doesn’t hold on as tightly as most others I’ve used, so I wouldn’t want to trust it for belt carry – use the holster for that.

Anodizing looks to be good quality, relatively satin black finish. I didn’t notice any flaws on my sample, but I’m not sure if Imalent anodizing is quite as hard as some other makers. One thing I like about the light is the square-cut screw threads – always a nice touch.

The light lacks a USB-C charging port on the body, but there is one built into the bundled high-drain battery. The light is remarkably compact given the length of the cell (due to its integrated USB-C charging port). There is a charging LED on the battery. Note there is a reverse-polarity detection feature in the head, so only button cells will work in the light (but I recommend you stick with the bundled high-drain cell for performance reasons). Also, given the relatively short body length and anodized screw threads, other brands of high-capacity 21700 batteries with USB-C integrated chargers are likely to be too long to fit and work in the light.

I would note that the tailcap spring is very robust, and has caused some minor denting of the bottom battery cell plate. According to Imalent, this robust spring is unavoidable due to the high currents involved.

The light weighed in at 120g without battery in my testing (192g with the included cell). Note that this makes the MS03 the third heaviest light in my compilation above – despite being the second shortest of the group. The light feels relatively top-heavy, suggesting there is good heatsinking.

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The light uses 3x Cree XHP70.2 emitters, within a multi-well smooth reflector setup. So you can expect a good amount of output with a relatively floody beam. The beam profile is surprisingly smooth given the multi-well reflector, and I didn’t notice any significant reflector well artifacts in the beam (surprisingly).

I’m also happy to note a relative balancing out of tint differences across the beam (something XHP70.2 HD emitters are well known for producing). Yes, there is some yellow-green highlighting around the corona into the mid-spill area, and some purple fringing at the periphery. There’s also a bit of purple in the center of the hotspot. But the combination reflector seems to be helping somewhat here in evening tint shifts out.

The bezel is flat black aluminum, so you may not be able to tell if the light is on when head-standing – except for the LED just below the switch, which helpfully lights up green by default when the light is activated. The bezel is well integrated into the body, and it’s not immediately clear to me how you would remove it (likely threadlocked in place). The light comes with an AR-coated toughened clear mineral glass lens.

Overall, I find this to be a good looking little light with decent ergonomics and a good beam pattern. It fits well in the hand, and is surprisingly compact. I would like a bit more robust knurling on the body though.

User Interface

The MS03 uses a fairly straightforward user interface. Note that given the incredibly high max output, the built-in temperature regulation will adjust the output as necessary as the light heats up.

From OFF:

  • Single click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double click: Turns on in Turbo.
  • Triple click: Lockout feature (although I recommend you lock out the light physically at the tailswitch)
  • 4 clicks: Turns on in Strobe
  • Press and hold: Activate or deactivate the LED indicator light below the switch

From ON:

  • Single click: Turns Off.
  • Double click: Jumps to Turbo.
  • Triple click: Nothing.
  • 4 clicks: Jumps to Strobe.
  • Press and hold: The light will cycle through all of its Low to High modes, in that order. Note that Turbo is not on the main sequence. Releasing the switch will select the desired output level.

Memory Mode:

Yes, the MS03 will remember the last constant-output mode used when you re-activate the light (except for Turbo).

Low Battery Warning:

When turned on, the LED indicator light on the head will flash when the battery voltage drops below 3.0V.

Thermal Control:

According to the manufacturer’s specs and reports online, on Turbo/Hi, the light will drop in output to a ~2000 lumen level when the flashlight’s body temperature reaches 65 degrees C (and the light will not activate in Turbo mode at this point). For modes other than Turbo/Hi, the temperature regulation set point is apparently set at 55 degrees C.

Reviewer Comments:

The UI is fairly straightforward, if a bit basic. I find it to be quite serviceable and easy to remember. But I wish it had a Moonlight/ultra-low level that could be accessed through a shortcut from Off. That way, you would have access to jump to max or min output from Off, without having to cycle through all the modes once On (or remembering the last mode used).

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the light appears to be fully current-controlled.

That being said, my oscilloscope was able to detect high frequency noise at every level, as depicted below. Note that these are not a concern, as they are not visible to naked the eye – the light remains flicker free in actual use.

Low:
MS03-Lo

Middle-Low:
MS03-MidLow

Middle I:
MS03-MidI

Middle II:
MS03-MidII

High:
MS03-High

Turbo:
MS03-Turbo

As you can see, the frequency of the noise remains constant at ~15.7-15.9 kHz, but increases in amplitude as output levels rise (which is fairly common, as more light is being emitted). Noise these super high frequencies are impossible to detect visually, and so not a concern. I am just including for completeness, as I like to present all my findings (and it is increasingly common to see these patterns on modern lights).

Strobe:

MS03-Strobe

Strobe frequency is very disorienting, at a super high 19.5 Hz. More than than, there are multiple pulses during each “on” cycle, so it seems even faster in practice.

Charging:
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Resting voltage <3.0V
MS03-charging1

Resting voltage >3.0V
MS03-charging2

I measured two distinct charging currents for the 21700’s USB-C charging; 1.0A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), at a slight bump to 1.1A once the cell is above >3.0V resting. Two-stage current charging is a common feature for integrated battery chargers on 21700 cells, although the initial charge rate is usually lower. In any case, while not as high as some, this charge rate will charge the cell in a reasonable amount of time.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 83.5 uA, which is completely negligible and not a concern (i.e., it would take many years to fully drain the cell). Regardless, I always recommend you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation (and cut any standby drain). A single twist of the tailcap will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5625K, and the moderately positive tint shift (+0.0095 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 70.

These results are very consistent with cool-white XHP70.2 emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see, Turbo is exceedingly bright. In fact, the Middle II and Hi modes are more in keeping with other high-output lights in this class.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

MS03 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o batteryWeight with battery
Low150240240---No15.7 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
Middle Low800800790---No15.7 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
Middle I1,3001,2001,200---No15.7 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
Middle II3,0002,8002,750---No15.8 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
High8,000-2,0008,0005,950---No15.8 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
Turbo13,000-2,00013,20011,05022,300 cd17,600 cd265 mNo15.9 kHz1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g
Strobe------19.5 HzNo1.0 A1.1 A83.5 uA120 g192 g

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Let’s start with a blow-up of the first few mins on max, so that you can see how bright the light is initially.

MS03-Max-extended

Believe it or not, it actually seems to reach its rated spec at initiation (or should I say ignition? ;). But after a few secs it does begin to decline in output, at an increasing rate, as you would expect.

Let see how it compares to other lights, on more typical time scales:

MS03-Max

MS03-Hi

The MS03 shows a semi-regulated runtime pattern, similar to the Lumintop D3 above (but with less fluctuations over time). The fluctuations are not a concern, given the timescales involved (i.e., you won’t notice the output changing, given how relatively slow it is over our perceptual scales).

Overall efficiency seems pretty good, given the high-drain 4000mAh cell has 20% lower capacity than most other lights batteries shown above. But the it is not as flatly regulated as some of the competition.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Highest max output that I've seen in a compact single-cell light.Turbo mode drops down quickly, given low thermal mass.
Very good efficiency with the bundled battery, with appropriate thermal-controlled step-downs.Light is not fully regulated in its runtime pattern, and has a very basic interface.
Nicely balanced beam profile with lots of throw and spill.Need to use the bundled high-drain cell for highest output modes.
Very compact build.Lacks a true Lo mode, and has some tint shifting in its beam profile.
Included high-drain battery with USB-C charging port.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The MS03 lives up to its rated specs – it really does produce 13,000 lumens (although not for long). The bundled high-drain cell is necessary to reach those max output levels, but this is an impressive feat!

Overall efficiency is also very good, considering a lower capacity high-drain cell is bundled with the light. Runtimes appear semi-regulated however, without the flat regulation associated with some of the competition. I am increasingly noticing this with modern lights, as it helps with efficiency (and the slow drop-off over time is not noticeable by eye).

The beam profile is relatively clean, with a nice balance of throw and spill. The reflector is impressive, as I would have expected to see more artifacts in this type of multi-emitter light – this is well-done here. There are some minor tint shifts across the beam profile (consistent with XHP70.2 emitters), but the multi-emitter setup seems to help even them out a bit.

It is an astonishingly tiny light, I can’t believe they squeezed all that into such a small body. It also has good weight, with decent heatsinking in the head – better than most other lights in this class. But while the overall build is certainly very decent, it doesn’t have quite the hand-feel I would have expected at this price point (e.g., a bit slippery in finish). The light comes with a nice set of accessories though, in a professional looking package.

More disappointing to me is that the lowest output level is ~250 lumens in my testing, so the light lacks any sort of true low mode (not the mention a Moonlight mode, although I appreciate that is not really expected here). The user interface is also very basic, with no way to jump to the lowest levels (i.e., need to cycle through all modes). That is honestly a bit disappointing in a modern light, given that many budget offerings have more sophisticated interfaces nowadays.

There is no question that if you are looking for maximum possible output in as small a build as possible, this is it. Of course, if you don’t need the top-of-the-line max output, you might want to take a look at some of the other offerings in this space, to see what best fits your needs in terms of interface and output levels. But there is no denying the MS03 is an incredible feat of engineering, and I really appreciate how Imalent has met its reported specs here.

Acknowledgement

The MS03 was provided for review by Imalent. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$135 USD (~$180 CDN).

You can purchase this light directly through the imalentstore.com, or through Amazon.

Acebeam E70

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The E70 is a compact every-day-carry style flashlight, with modestly high output, running on an included single 21700 battery. Features a rakish looking design typically associated with custom lights.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’ve long been a fan of Acebeam lights (or Supbeam, in their original incarnation). I’ve always found their lights to be solid offerings, very well made, with efficient current-controlled circuits and well-thought out interfaces. So, upon my recent return to reviewing, I was glad to see that they are still around, and producing new lights.

The E70 is their relatively compact 1×21700 light, with an included 21700 cell. Let’s see what it has to offer, relative to the competition.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerAcebeam
ModelE70
EmitterXHP70.2
Tint6500K
Max Output (Lumens)4600
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime11 days
Max Beam Intensity14,400 cd
Max Beam Distance240 m
Mode Levels6
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)102g
Weight (with battery)-
Length128.3 mm
Head Diameter30 mm
Body Diameter27 mm
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details

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The E70 is shipped in a nice cardboard display box. Inside, you will find the following:

  • Acebeam E70 flashlight, with attached clip (Torx screws)
  • Lanyard
  • Pouch
  • 21700 battery
  • USB-C charging cable
  • Extra o-rings
  • Warranty card,
  • Manual

It’s a reasonable package of accessories, but I would personally like to see a belt holster as well (although I noticed that is very rare nowadays). Note that according to the box labels, multiple tint options are available. I have the standard 6500K cool white tint to review.

Build

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From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.

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Well, that is a pretty unique design! the flashlight is double-walled, with the inner wall a very pleasing electric blue colour (visible through the slanted cut-outs along the outside wall).  This light is also available in a stainless steel version, which must be particularly stunning. I personally prefer aluminum lights, for the lighter weight and ability to lock out the light (thanks to the anodized threads, as seen here).

The extra wall thickness and larger head make this light a little larger than most in this class, which may be an issue for you if you are looking for something very compact. I have relatively large hands though, so I find the ergonomics to be good.

The rear switch is electronic in nature, with a stainless steel switch cover. Feel and traverse of the switch is good, and easy to activate even if you don’t hit it dead-on. Thanks to the raised tail cut-outs, the light can still tailstand stably. I found the design and interface very easy to use in my testing.

The light lacks traditional knurling, but the cut-outs in the exterior wall produce the same basic effect, along with circular indents on the head. A very rakish design. Note that this double-walled design does produce a certain “hollow” feel when you tap on it, but that’s a minor point.

The pocket clip is firmly attached, and helps further with grip. It is not reversible, and can only be used for downward carry.

Hard anodizing looks to be good quality (as is typical for Acebeam), and is more on the matte side (which I personally prefer, not a fan of glossy lights). As previously mentioned, threads are anodized, so you can lock out the light by a twist of the head.

The light lacks a USB-C charging port on the body, but there is one built into the bundled battery. There is a charging LED on the battery. Given the extra length of these batteries, you’ll have to stick with ones that include such a port. And you don’t want them to be too long (e.g., I found I couldn’t screw closed the head if I used the longer Fenix battery with integrated USB-C charger).

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The light uses a Cree XHP70.2, so you can expect a good amount of output. You can also expect a relatively floody light, thanks to the larger emitter die. Reflector is textured, and reasonably deep for a compact light like this.

Unfortunately, you can also expect some colour distortions in the beam as these are common with the xx.2 HD editions of the Cree XHP series. The mineral glass lens also has a purple anti-reflective (AR) coating, which enhances the purple fringing on the periphery of the beam, as shown above. At least they didn’t go too heavy on the coating – while the fringing is noticeable, I don’t find it too bad in actual use (scroll down for beamshots). I would recommend that they switch to a light green AR coating, which is far less noticeable. I haven’t observed any significant tint shifting across output levels at least.

The bezel has small scalloped crenelations on it, so you can tell if the light is on when head-standing. I haven’t tried it using it as a weapon, but I imagine it would be rather unpleasant to be struck with the business end of this light.

Overall, I find this to be a snazzy looking light with decent ergonomics and a good beam pattern. It fits well in the hand, but is a bit larger than most in the class. A stylish build in the 1×21700 EDC class.

User Interface

The E70 uses a single tail-mounted electronic switch to control the flashlight. Available constant output modes, as per the manufacturer labels, are: Ultralow (which I will refer to as Moonlight throughout this review), Low, Med1, Med2, Hi, Turbo. There is one blinking mode outside the main sequence: Strobe.

From OFF:

  • Press and hold: Moonlight (release after light activates to maintain Moonlight)
  • Single click: Nothing
  • Double click: Turns on in last mode used
  • Triple click: Strobe
  • 5 clicks: Activates lockout mode. Note the light will activate in Moonlight for ~3 secs, then flash three times, turn off and lock itself out. Press and hold 3 secs to disable lockout (or loosen-tighten the tailcap)

From ON:

  • Press and hold: Cycles through all the modes from Low to High (note that Turbo and Moonlight are not part of the main cycle)
  • Double click: Turbo (and a repeated double-click returns you to the previously used mode)
  • Triple click: Strobe

Shortcuts:

  • To Turbo: Double click from On to enter Turbo (or double-click twice from Off)
  • To Moonlight: Press and hold from Off
  • To Strobe: Triple-click from either On or Off
  • To Lockout: Press and hold the switch for more than 5 secs. Press and hold 3 secs to disable (or loosen-tighten the tailcap)

 

Mode memory:

Yes. The light remembers the last constant output used, and returns to it next time you turn on it (with the exception of Moonlight and Turbo).

Low battery warning:

No, not that I have observed.

Reviewer Comments:

This is a very decent interface. About the only thing I don’t like is the need to double click to turn on (not sure why single click wasn’t used, perhaps to avoid accidental activation?). Still, it isn’t too hard to remember this little quirk, and the worst thing that will happen is the light won’t come in with a single click.  Alternatively, a press and hold will activate in Moonlight, and you can always cycle through to the main modes from there.

Note that Turbo requires a double click to enter, and ramps down automatically after about a min or so (scroll down for runtimes). And I’m glad to see the Moonlight mode here (see Testing Results for more info).

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

E70-Lo

There is no sign of PWM or circuit noise at any level. The light appears to be fully constant-current controlled. 🙂

Strobe:

E70-strobe

Strobe frequency is a reasonably fast 8.5 Hz. Certainly annoying, but not as bad as some.

Charging:
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Resting voltage <3.0V
E70-charging1

Resting voltage >3.0V
E70-charging2
The Acebeam 21700 battery shows an initial low USB-C charging current of 0.09A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), which jumps up to 0.60A once the cell is >3.0V resting. This two-current charging is a good design, and indicates a safe integrated charging circuit. However, the max charging rate is lower than most lights in this class, so it will take longer to fully charge the battery.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I have recently re-tested the standby current with an improved setup, and measured 0.152 mA.

This is reasonably low, and not much of a concern in practice (i.e., it would take 3.75 years to fully drain the battery). Still, I suggest you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation and completely cut this standby drain. A single twist of the head will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5605K, and the noticeable positive tint shift (+0.0116 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 63.

These results are very consistent with cool-white XHP70.2 emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



In practice, the yellow-green tint shifting in the corona to mid-spill area of the spillbeam isn’t that noticeable in a natural environment (well, it would be on snow). The purple fringing in the periphery is noticeable but not too distracting. I would recommend they switch to a green AR coating, to minimize the purple (although this would accentuate green in the mid-spill).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

E70 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Ultralow11.01.0---NoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Low505555---NoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Med1180180180---NoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Med2650550550---NoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Hi1,3001,3001,300---NoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Turbo4,6004,2004,00013,800 cd13,200 cd230 mNoNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g
Strobe1,650-----8.4 HzNo0.09 A0.60 A1.8 mA101 g175 g

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

E70-max

E35-Hi

E35-Med

As you can see above, the E70 is extremely efficient at all levels tested, consistent with a good current-controlled circuit.

To better show the timed step-down feature on Turbo, here is the max output runtime expanded to show the first few minutes:

E35-Max-Expanded

The output rapidly ramps down just before the 1 minute mark, over a period of 30 secs or so. This is quite reasonable, given how the hard the light is driven for the first minute. It also gets quite warm in the hand by the point it starts to ramp down.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Excellent current-controlled efficiency, with flat and stable regulation in all modesDouble-click to turn on is unusual, and deprives the option of an extra shortcut (e.g. to Turbo)
Great range of output levels, including Turbo and MoonlightSlightly larger than most compact 1x21700 lights
Nicely balanced beam profile with lots of spillStandby drain higher than typical, requiring you to lock-out the light when not in use.
Comfortable to hold in the handSome colour distortions in the beam due to the XHP70.2 HD emitter, plus purple fringing at the edge of the spillbeam due to the AR lens coating
Included high-capacity battery with USB-C charging port

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

I really like the design and features of this light. It is comfortable to hold and operate, and it has a great range of well-regulated and highly efficient output levels (from Turbo to Moonlight). It’s nice to see Acebeam has kept its commitment to using good current-controlled drivers.

The beam pattern is very useful, with a nice big hotspot and tons of spill. However, the XHP70.2 HD emitter used here produces greater tint shifting across the spillbeam than most emitters, which is being accentuated by the purple AR coating on the lens of this model. But it’s not too bad on my specimen, probably due to the heavily textured reflector which helps even things out. And I’m really glad to see the ~1 lumen Moonlight mode here – it’s incredibly useful for dark adapted eyes, and something I (sadly) rarely see any more.

The E70 is a bit larger than some in the class, but I find it actually fits in my large sized hands well. Your experience may differ though, so I could see how this could be a drawback for some. And appearance will always be subjective, but I find it looks snazzy. Good ergonomics and a great overall package, making it a pleasure to use for me personally.

The dual-level charging is good design feature, although the max charging rate is lower than most in this class. But otherwise, I’m very impressed will all aspects of the circuit performance. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the double-click to turn (as a single click is far more intuitive, and is a loss opportunity to have a Turbo shortcut as most others implement).

Collectively, the relatively minor issues above are enough to knock a half star off the top possible rating. But I would still consider the E70 a top pick in the 1×21700 class of flashlights so far, based on features and performance.

UPDATE May 11, 20223: I originally reported an unusually high parasitic standby drain on my sample, as I was getting inconsistent readings and so went with the highest value. I’ve upgraded my DMM leads and more carefully masked off the surfaces, and am pleased to report much more reasonable (and inconsequential) drain levels consistent with the competition.

Acknowledgement

The E70 was provided for review by Acebeam. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$75 USD (~$125 CDN).

Acebeam is making available a discount code for readers of my reviews. If you purchase the light from the Acebeam.com website, you can use the code “selfbuilt” (without the quotation marks) for 10% off.