The TS10 is a popular multi-emitter, 1×14500 light from Wurkkos that features the sophisticated Anduril user interface. Powerful, compact, and available in a wide range of build options.

1. Introduction
2. Manufacturer Specifications
3. Package Details
4. Build
5. User Interface
6. Circuit Measures
7. Emitter Measures
8. Beamshots
9. Testing Results
10. Runtimes
11. Pros and Cons
12. Overall Rating
13. Preliminary Conclusions
14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I’m working through my backlog of lights – these TS10 samples were obtained at the end of the summer last year.

The TS10 series has a lot of love out there from flashlight enthusiasts. Relatively tiny and inexpensive, they pack a powerful floody punch with 3x CSP LEDs (with their high >90 CRI) in either Cool white or Neutral white, along with secondary red colour emitters. The body comes in various build materials (aluminum, brass, titanium, copper) and colours (in the aluminum version). Oh, and it features the sophisticated Anduril user interface.

Given my positive experiences with Anduril, I thought I’d see how this model performs. Wurkkos agreed to send me the Cool white version (in silver aluminum finish), and I personally ordered a Warm white (black anodized finish) to compare.

Before I jump into testing, I should point out that there is a new V2 of the TS10 recently released. My understanding is that it has some small circuit tweaks but should perform comparably to the performance seen here. Note however the secondary red LEDs have been replaced with RGB, giving you greater functionality (i.e., Anduril works well with secondary RGB emitters, see my Emisar D1 and D4K reviews for an indication of what to expect).

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides. Scroll down to see my actual runtimes.

Maker	Wurkkos	Wurkkos
Model	TS10	TS10
Emitter	3xCSP LED >90 CRI	3xCSP LED >90 CRI
Tint	4000 K	6000 K
Max Output (Lumens)	1,400	1,400
Min Output (Lumens)	1	1
Max Runtime	-	-
Max Beam Intensity (cd)	4,150 cd	4,150 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)	130 m	130 m
Constant Levels	150	150
Flashing	6	6
Battery
Weight (w/o battery)	32 g	32 g
Weight (with battery)	-	-
Length	71.5 mm	71.5 mm
Head Diameter	21 mm	21 mm
Body Diameter	-	-
Waterproof	IPX8 2m	IPX8 2m

Package Details

The packaging for the TS10 is fairly basic, shown above for the “silvery” version of the coated aluminum. Inside the fairly simple cardboard box you will find:

• TS10 flashlight
• Wurkkos 14500 battery 900mAh (if ordered as part of the kit)
• Single cell charger, with micro-USB cable (again, if ordered as part of the kit)
• Bi-directional pocket clip
• Wrist lanyard
• 2 Spare body tube o-rings
• Manual

The TS10 lacks any sort of in-light charging, but for an extra ~$2 or so you can get a Wurkkos 14500 battery and simple external charger. It’s nice to see the bundled pocket clip at this low price.

Build

From left to right: Mateminco 18350 (1200mAh), Mateminco SL02 (18350 body tube), Vapcell 18350 F14 (1400mAh), Emisar D1 (18350 body tube), Wurkkos 14500 (900mAh), Wurkkos TS10.

You have a lot of build options here, but I have opted for the basic aluminum construction. As you can see, the light has an inner aluminum sleeve that is anodized except for the end. This inner signal tube is what makes contact with the head ring, and allows the switch to control the light. I presume this same design is also true for the brass and titanium build options, but don’t know for certain.

The light is controlled by an electronic side switch in the tail, under a rubberized cover. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is surprisingly decent, with a firm click and typical traverse. The tailcap edge is flat, with the switch ever so slightly recessed – so the light is able to tailstand fairly stably. There is no cut-out for the simple wrist lanyard, so you would need to attach that to the clip if you wanted to use (I personally don’t see the value).

Tailcap threads are square-cut with good feel, although note that the light comes bare with no lube. Thanks to the anodized signal switch tube, you can technically lock out the switch (for activation) by a twist of the head – but this is not recommended (scroll down for a discussion on this point). With the o-rings in place, I expect waterproofness to be decent. Indeed, I accidentally left one of these in my jeans pocket when it went the through the washing machine – despite banging around the wash the whole cycle, the light came out fully dry inside with no water entry.

There is a spring in the head in the tail, along with a flat disc contact in the head. Small button top cells are recommend.

The bidirectional stainless steel pocket clip attaches near the tail, and allows for head-up or head-down carry. It also serves as effective anti-roll device, which is appreciated.

There are a couple of options for the emitter LED, Cool white (6000K) or Neutral white (4000K). I have both on hand to test, and I don’t think you can go wrong with either, given the relatively Hi CRI nature of the CSP emitters. The lights also currently come with three red auxillary LEDs that are easily controlled with the Anduril user interface (at two different intensities). See the user interface section below for more information.

Unlike most of the lights I am reviewing these days, there is no built-in charger on the TS10. But if you buy the light with the battery kit (for an extra ~$2) you get a 14500 battery and a stand-alone micro-USB charger suitable for the 14500 cell.

There is no knurling to speak of, and only fairly minor ridge detail. So I recommend you use the included pocket clip to help with grip. Anodizing looks to be good quality (for presumed type II, give the colour range), with no damage on my sample. I would describe the black finish as matte, and the “silvery” as sandblasted. Note that the “silvery” colour option no longer seems to be available on the Wurkkos store.

The basic optic gives you a nice even beam. It doesn’t show up well in my desk shots above, but the beam is indeed very broad and floody. Scroll down for actual outdoor beamshots. There is no sign of AR coating on the lens (not that I would expect any, with an optic).

One great feature of this light is the 3 additional secondary red emitters built-in here. These can be turned on and controlled by the auxillary LED settings in Anduril.

Here is what they look like on the high and low output AUX settings:

In my handling, I find the High level for the AUX red LEDs is surprisingly bright – and the Low level is very low (scroll down for specific output measures).

And again, note that the new V2 of the TS10 currently shipping comes with RGB LEDs for greater functionality.

User Interface

As mentioned above, the TS10 uses the open-source Anduril 2 user interface (UI). Anduril has two distinct UIs mode sets: Simple and Advanced. The labels are a bit misleading, as both are fairly sophisticated – it is just that the Advanced UI has a lot of extra options not available on the scaled-down Simple UI. Both UIs have the option for a discrete Stepped level mode, in addition to the continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode.

To switch from the default Simple UI to Advanced UI, you need to do 10 clicks from Off with a hold on the 10th click (10H), with 10 clicks (10C) to return to simple UI. Advanced UI has a lot more options available. It’s easier to show the UIs rather than explain them in words, so here is a helpful pic:

You can also download a plain text-based manual from Anduril creator Toykeeper, or a more interactive one with version control here.

This implementation of Anduril 2 has eight discrete Stepped levels, which I’ve numbered in this review as H1 through H8 (with H1 being the lowest level, and H8 being Turbo).

According to the firmware Version Check, my TS10 Neutral white sample is model 0714. Full info is 2022-07-19-07-14 (version code is Year-Month-Day the firmware was compiled, followed by a 2-digit brand ID and 2-digit product ID).

Again, check the image and link above for more info, but here is a simplified description of the UI to get you started.

From OFF:

• Press-and-hold (1H): Turns On in lowest output, in either Ramping mode or Stepped mode depending on which mode is enabled (and which UI you are in)
• Single-click (1C): Turns on in last memorized mode used (Ramping or Stepped)
• Double-click (2C): Turns on to Turbo (aka the Ramping max output)
• Triple-click (3C): Battery check (voltage read out a single time) and basic flashing/strobe modes.
• Triple-click-and-hold (3H): Special strobe modes, but only when in Advanced UI (remembers last strobe mode used)
• 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode. In lockout mode you have different options available:
  • Press-and-hold (1H): Momentary Moonlight
  • Double-click-and-hold (2H): Momentary Low
  • 4 clicks (4C): Turns On in memorized output level
  • 4 clicks and hold (4H): Turns On in the lowest level
  • 5 clicks (5C): Turns On in Turbo
  • 10 clicks and hold (10H): Configure the lock timeout threshold (in Advanced UI only), allowing you to pre-set the timeout time of the lock.
• 7 clicks (7C): (Advanced UI only) Enters AUX/Button LED config for the next mode. There are four modes you can switch between; constant low, blinking low, off, constant hi. Click 7 times again to advance to the next option, in sequence. The light auto-memorizes the last option you select.

From ON:

• Press-and-hold (1H): Ramps up (or Steps up, depending on the mode). Ramps/steps down if you do it again.
• Single-click (1C): Turns Off
• Double-click (2C): Jumps to Turbo
• Double-click-and-hold (2H): Ramps down (or Steps down)
• Triple-click (3C): Switch between Ramping and Stepped modes
• 4 clicks (4C): Lockout mode (see above for options)

Mode memory:

Yes, the circuit memorizes the last constant On output level in either Ramping or Stepped modes.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, quite a few actually. The strobe/blinking modes are accessible from Off with a triple-click (3C) or triple-click-and-hold (3H), but in Advanced UI only. You can switch between strobe/blinking modes with 2 clicks (2C), in the following sequence (see testing results below to see what these look like):

Triple-click (3C):

• Battery check
• Temperature check
• Beacon mode
• SOS mode

Triple-click-and hold (3H):

• Candle mode
• Bike flasher mode
• Party strobe mode
• Tactical strobe mode
• Lightning mode

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. In operation, the light drops in brightness in steps, and runs for an extended time at a very low level. Apparently it shuts off when the cell is ~2.8V (although I haven’t run it that long to confirm).

Lock-out mode:

Yes. In either Simple UI or Advanced UI, lockout is accessed by 4 clicks (4C) from On or Off (repeat to unlock). The lockout mode is unusual with Anduril, as it actually enables momentary operation in the minimum modes (see above).

Normally, I recommend you physically lock the switch out at the head, if you want to guarantee no accidental activation. However, there are reports that this causes issues for the circuit on Anduril lights with inner signal tubes. Specifically, bad data may be relayed to the circuit during reactivations (including inadvertently producing factory resets). As such, I recommend you store the lights either in electronic lockout mode, or with the batteries removed.

Factory reset:

There are two ways to do a factory reset of an Anduril light. This can be necessary sometimes if you get into trouble when programming, or if circuit glitches crop up. The easier method to reset the light is to loosen the head (breaking contact with the inner signal tube), press and hold the button down, and tighten the head while not letting go of the button. The light will flicker a bit and then rapidly ramp up – at the end of which it will make a very bright flash. Keep holding the button until it reaches the end of that bright flash. If you release it too early, the light will not reset.

If you find that method doesn’t work, you can use the standard 13H method shown in the diagram above. With the head connected, holding on the 13th rapid click will do the same as above – the light will flicker, ramp, and then bright flash. Personally, I find it a bit tricky to accurately count out 13 clicks and hold without hesitation on the last one. But this will do the job as well, if you can get the timing down.

Temperature check and thermal calibration mode:

This is a little complicated (and beyond the needs of most users), so I will just refer you to the diagram from the manual above. With default settings, I find this light steps down fairly quickly due to heat (unsurprising, given default Anduril settings are conservative and the thermal mass is small here). I have not tried to reconfigure my sample, since I find it plenty toasty as is. Note that if you get into any trouble (or wish to reset any custom configurations), you can easily reset the light to the factory defaults by 13 clicks-and-hold (13H).

Reviewer Comments:

Anduril is a sophisticated setup – a choice of Simple or Advanced UI, Stepped and Ramping modes, AUX LED control, etc. Of course, you will never please everyone, and I know many may prefer a simpler interface. But this light can easily be configured to run quite simply (i.e., you don’t need to use the all the features if you don’t want to).

Note that I found myself needing to reset these lights a few times in my testing, due to little quirks or bugs that cropped up (e.g., suddenly not switching between smooth or ramping, or not letting me reconfigure the AUX LEDs, etc.). These issues can happen in any Anduril light, but it seemed to me that this model was more prone to it. It may have to do with the known issue of physically locking out light at the head, which I did periodically during testing (this is an issue on Anduril lights with inner signal tubes). In any case, any issues that crop up can easily be fixed with a circuit reset (followed by reapplying whatever customizations you prefer).

Circuit Measures

No Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. But as is common for budget lights with simple FET drivers running Anduril, there is non-visually detectable circuit noise at all output levels except max:

H1:

H2:

H3:

H4:

H5:

H6:

H7:

H8:

Again, this ~20 kHz noise is NOT visible to the eye, and is not a problem. It is typically a sign of a fairly basic driver though (e.g., I saw a similar pattern on the WK15 I recently reviewed). Interestingly, it disappears on the highest level.

Strobe Modes:

Note that for most of the strobe / flashing modes below, the actual frequency and intensity are both configurable. What I am showing below is the default speed and/or brightness setting. By pressing and holding the switch (1H or 2H) you can select the frequency. And in some cases, brightness is set from the last-used ramp level.

Beacon:

Beacon strobe is a single flash every ~2.3 secs (so, <0.5 Hz) by default.

SOS:

A fairly typical SOS mode.

Candle:

Candle strobe is a continuous flicker, of varying intensity (again, accurately simulating a candle).

Bike Strobe:

Bike strobe is a bit unusual with Anduril. It is constant On at a lower level, with four brief flashes to max (over ~0.25 secs) every ~1 sec or so by default. It certainly is an attention grabber.

Party Strobe:

Party strobe is a super-fast (and annoying) frequency of ~20 Hz by default.

Tactical Strobe:

Tactical strobe is typically ~10 Hz by default, although I found my sample fluctuated between ~8.7-8.9 Hz.

Lightning Strobe:

I’ve shown three 10-sec cycles above, so you can a feel for the frequency and intensity of light flashes. Lightning strobe is a fairly realistic lightning simulation, with variable intensity and time between flashes.

Charging:

The included micro-USB charger uses a single-stage charging mode of 1.0A. This is a high charging rate for a 14500 cell, and will charge it relatively quickly.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

NOTE: My original drain measures were off by a significant amount. I have corrected them below.

With the switch disconnected and AUX LEDs set to off, I measured the standby drain as ~4 uA on both samples. For a 900mAh cell, that would translate into a little over 25 years before the cell would be fully drained (which, is completely negligible and not a concern).

With the AUX LEDs activated on the very dim Low setting, I measured the drain as 145 uA on both samples. For a 900mAh cell, that would give you just over 8.5 months before the cell would be drained. This is reasonable.

With the AUX LEDs activated on the very bright High setting, I measured a large jump to 13.5 mA and 13.2 mA on my two samples. Taking the average, that would fully drain the cell in about 67 hours (so, just under 3 days). While this is fine for the occasional use, it doesn’t make for a very effective or efficient Moonlight mode. Indeed, based on my experience, the low smooth Ramping minimum on the main emitters would likely have a much lower drain – with greater output with a better beam pattern.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS10 Cool white on H6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5770K, and a completely negligible tint shift (+0.0002 Duv). For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 94 (Hi CRI).

These results are very consistent with other Cool white CSP emitters I’ve tested.

TS10 Neutral white on H6:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~3800K, and a slightly noticeably negative tint shift (-0.0038 Duv) to pinkish-red at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 97 (Hi CRI).

These results are very consistent with other neutral-warm CSP emitters I’ve tested.

Just out of curiosity, I thought I’d measure the AUX red LEDs.

TS10 AUX Red LEDs on Hi:

The simple Light Master lightmeter that I am using is not rated for monochromatic sources, but the reading above is very consistent with a dedicated red light – it is well off the blackbody radiation curve at the red end of the spectrum.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.

As you can see above, the TS10s produce a relatively floody beam, with tint to match the expected colour temperatures.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. Note that my lightbox calibration runs higher than most hobbyists today, but I’ve kept it to remain consistent with my earlier reviews (when the base calibration standard was first established). On average though, I find my lumen estimates are ~20% higher than most other modern reviewers.

My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS10 Testing Results

Tint	Mode	Spec Lumens	Estimated Lumens @0sec	Estimated Lumens @30 secs	Beam Intensity @0sec	Beam Intensity @30secs	Beam Distance @30secs	PWM/Strobe Freq	Noise Freq	Charging Current <3V	Charging Current >3V	Parasitic Drain	Weight w/o Battery	Weight with Battery	CCT (K)	Duv	CRI
4000 K	Red AUX Leds (Low)	-	<0.001	<0.001	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	145 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Red AUX Leds (High)	-	0.19	0.19	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	13.5 mA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Smooth Ramp Min	-	0.015	0.015	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H1	1	0.21	0.21	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H2	10	3.2	3.2	-	-	-	No	3.9 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H3	50	12	12	-	-	-	No	6.4 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H4	130	41	41	-	-	-	No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H5	300	110	105	-	-	-	No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H6	580	260	200	-	-	-	No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	3,805	-0.0038	97
4000 K	H7	900	600	550	-	-	-	No	19.8 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	H8	1,400	1,950	500	3,980 cd	3,380 cd	116 m	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Candle	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Bike Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	1.1 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Party Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	22 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Tactical Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	8.8 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Lightning	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	Beacon	-	-	-	-	-	-	1.7 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
4000 K	SOS	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Red AUX Leds (Low)	-						No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	145 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Red AUX Leds (High)	-						No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	13.2 mA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Smooth Ramp Min	-						No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H1	1	0.27	0.27				No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H2	10	3.9	3.9				No	3.9 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H3	50	15	15				No	6.4 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H4	130	47	47				No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H5	300	125	120				No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	H6	580	270	265				No	19.7 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g
6000 K	H7	900	610	580				No	19.8 kHz	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	5,770	0.0002	94
6000 K	H8	1,400	2,000	750	4,050 cd	3,330 cd	115 m	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Candle	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Bike Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	1.1 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Party Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	22 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Tactical Strobe	-	-	-	-	-	-	8.8 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Lightning	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	Beacon	-	-	-	-	-	-	1.7 Hz	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-
6000 K	SOS	-	-	-	-	-	-	No	No	1.0 A	1.0 A	~4 uA	29 g	50 g	-	-	-

There is a good dynamic range on the Stepped levels (you can go even lower on the Ramping minimum), consistent with other Anduril lights that use simple linear FET drivers (e.g., Sofirn IF25A, Wurkkos TS30S Pro). Scroll down to see how these TS10 lights perform in terms of runtime.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page. Note that on average, my lightbox’s calibration seems to be ~20% higher than most modern reviewers.

I don’t have a lot of 14500 lights to compare to, but the overall efficiency of these TS10 lights seems pretty good for the rated battery capacity.

It’s true they are not fully flat voltage-regulated at the highest Stepped levels (i.e., H6-H8), but they are at lower outputs. And even at the highest outputs, the variable pattern of output over time is still gradual enough that you wouldn’t see it in practice.

To illustrate, here is how the the first few minutes look on the max output:

Max output levels are consistent with other small lights, no real surprises here. Of course heat will be limiting on the max level, so I recommend you run the light on H1-H7 for best performance.

Pros and Cons

Pros	Cons
Very floody and high output beam for such a tiny light.	Simple linear FET circuit, so light lack flat voltage-regulation on the higher output modes.
Very wide dynamic range of outputs, including true moonlight and two auxillary red output modes	Max output drops rapidly on max output, due to low thermal mass.
Sophisticated user interface with Anduril	Anduril user interface can be complicated for some, but it can be set to run in basic mode.
Hi CRI white LED emitters, in cool or neutral white colour temperature.	Trying to physically lock out the light can lead to circuit glitches, due to presumed switch interactions with the inner signal tube during reconnection.
Tailcap electronic clicky switch included, despite small size.	Larger hands may find it hard to operate, given tiny size.
Very low standby drain.
Variety of build materials available.
Good bidirectional clip included, despite budget cost

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

There is a lot to love with this little light. It’s a small but impressive build (and there are multiple build options available). It has a great high CRI floody beam (in two possible colour temperatures) with auxillary red emitters. And it’s surprising to see a tail switch in a light this small.

It features the sophisticated Anduril user interface, which I am a fan of given all the included features, options and customizations. I realize that it may be more complex than some would want, but you can always run it as a very basic light if you don’t want to use the multiple click options. Note that the use of an electronic switch with an inner signal tube in Anduril lights can lead to some circuit quirks if you try to physically lock out the head, so its best to rely on electronic lockout. It is also good to know how to perform a factory reset (see my User Interface section above for a discussion).

One of nice things about Anduril is that even bundled with a very simple driver, you get an impressive dynamic range of outputs (from ultra-low moonlight to super high output). You can easily choose between visually-linear ramping outputs or stepped levels. Of course, given the small thermal mass and simple circuit, max output will drop off quickly. You also won’t see the flat voltage-stabilization at the higher output levels.

But these are minor points, especially given the ridiculously low price you can find these lights at. I don’t usually factor price into my reviews, but it is remarkable how much you get here for so little. The range of build options is also very impressive. It’s a great all-around package with the included 14500 cell (and external battery charger).

I can see why people like to buy multiple versions of this light. It is super fun to play with, and incredibly versatile and powerful. And the addition of RGB AUX LEDs to the revised V2 of this light further enhances its versatility. Highly recommended.

Acknowledgement

The TS10 Cool white was received by Wurkkos for review, and the TS10 Neutral white was personally purchased. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light with an included 14500 cell and charger retails for ~$20 USD (~$27 CDN) shipped at the Wurkkos website.