Category Archives: Flashlight Reviews

Acebeam Defender P17

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The P17 is a high quality tactical flashlight featuring fairly high output and very good throw, running on a single included 21700 battery. Also features both tactical and general user interface options.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Following on my Acebeam E70 review, I thought it would be worth examining their larger tactical 1×21700 light, the Defender P17.

Featuring the Cree XHP70.3 HI emitter in cool white, the P17 has a reported maximum output of 4900 lumens, and beam distance of 445 meters thanks to the larger head. It also features a dual tactical tail switch similar to the Nitecore P20iX that I recently reviewed. This allows easy one-handed access to instant Turbo and/or Strobe.

Although billed for tactical use (e.g., law enforcement, security, search and rescue, hunting, etc.), this design is frankly very generally useful for all outdoor activities where a rugged build is desired.

Let’s see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerAcebeam
ModelP17
EmitterXHP70.3 HI
Tint6500 K
Max Output (Lumens)4,900
Min Output (Lumens)3
Max Runtime20 days
Max Beam Intensity (cd)49,506 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)445 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe/SOS
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)154 g
Weight (with battery)227 g
Length147 mm
Head Diameter41 mm
Body Diameter26 mm
Waterproof-

Package Details




The light comes in a good quality hard-sided box, with magnetic closing flap. There are printed specs all along the box. Inside, you have cut-out foam for the light and accessories.

Inside the box, I found:

  • Acebeam Defender P17 flashlight with pocket clip attached
  • Acebeam 5100mAh 21700 battery with USB-C charging port
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual and warranty card

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. As always, I would have liked to have seen a holster, but at least they included a good quality bi-directional pocket clip.

Build


From left to right: Armytek 18650 (3500mAh), Sofirn 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70, Acebeam P17, Armytek Doberman Pro, Convoy M21F, Lumintop D3, Nitecore MH12SE, Nitecore P20iX,  Sofirn C8L.










The P17 is larger than most flashlights in this class, due to the larger head, dual-wall body, and dual switch tailcap. But I find it very well balanced, and quite comfortable to hold in the hand – although I do have large hands.

As I mentioned in my Nitecore P20iX review, I’ve always liked this dual tailcap switch arrangement – a number of makers have used it over the years. You have a standard protruding forward physical clicky switch as your main switch for on/off operation and signaling (the “Tactical Switch” in Acebeam’s terminology), with a recessed secondary electronic switch to cycles modes (the “Function Switch”). This is a very “tactical” style arrangement, but I find it just generally very functional. With the wide use of single electronic switches in most lights now, it is great to go back to a primary physical clicky while also keeping the functionality of the electronic switch.

Feel and traverse of the main Tactical clicky switch is good, for both momentary (half-press) and clicked-on. The secondary Function switch is electronic, and I found it easy enough to access given its slightly protruding nature. It too has good feel and resistance.

Since the primary Tactical switch protrudes, tailstanding is not possible, and accidental activation is easy. So as always, I strongly recommend you keep the light stored locked out at the tailcap when not in use. A simple twist of the tailcap will do the job, thanks to breaking of the contact with the inner tube. There are cut-outs on the side of the tail for using the wrist lanyard. The attached bi-direction pocket/belt clip fits on securely, and is designed for either bezel-up or bezel-down carry.

The body has good grip, with all the reeling and cut-outs along the length and on the head. The light can roll, even with the flat cut-outs in the head, but the clip really helps prevent it (I recommend you leave the clip on).

Anodizing is a dark gray, and looks to be excellent quality. It feels relatively thick, and is actually somewhat grippy, with a matte finish. It is advertised as type III (Hard Anodized), and I fully believe that – it feels very high quality. I didn’t notice any flaws on my sample.

As you can see above, there are springs in both the tail and the head, ensuring the cell is held securely in place.

Like the P20iX, the dual switch arrangement in the tailcap requires a double-walled tube connecting the tailcap to the head (i.e., one to the carry the current, one to allow signalling). Unlike the P20iX though, no proprietary cell is needed – because the charging circuit is built into the battery, instead of the flashlight. Like the Acebeam E70, simply remove the 5100mAh cell and charge it through the USB-C port directly on its positive terminal. And special bonus, no need to worry about the waterproofness of a built-in charging dock on this light.




The P17 comes the low-profile XHP70.3 HI emitter, which I prefer over the domed 70.2 HD emitters as it shows far less chromatic aberration (and has slightly better throw). As you can see above, there seems to be a small speck on the flat emitter dome in my sample, but it is not affecting the beam. The reflector is moderate orange peel (OP), to help minimize chromatic variation. I don’t notice any significant colour temperature/tint shifting across the beam – which is rather throwy thanks to the large head (scroll down for emitter measures and beamshots). There is a mild greenish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens (which I prefer).

The stainless steel bezel has relatively mild crenelations, but with an unusual feature – 3 integrated round beads of high-strength silicon nitride ceramic on the protruding ends. This allows it to be used as a strike bezel, for example to break glass. At the same time, these beads are rounded, so it won’t rip a hole in your clothing (much appreciated), and still allows the light to headstand. Thanks to the crenelations and beads, you can tell if the light is on when headstanding.

User Interface

The P17 has three available mode sets, referred to as Daily Mode, Tactical Mode, and Special Mode. Unfortunately, some of the mode and level instructions in the manual are not clear, so I will describe everything in detail below. But first, I will explain how you switch between them.

Mode Switching (between Daily, Tactical and Special modes)

  • From Off, press-and-hold down the Function switch for at least 3 secs
  • Without releasing the Function switch, click the Tactical switch.
  • Release the Function switch. Light enters “breathing mode” while it waits for you to select the Mode set (the main LED has a slow fade-in and fade-out repeatedly, which looks like “breathing” – to be honest, I find it rather relaxing).
  • Click the Function switch to advance through the three mode settings, which are identified as follows:
    • Strobe – Tactical mode (also called “Tactical Mode 1” in the manual)
    • High level – Special mode (also called “Tactical Mode 2”)
    • SOS – Daily mode
  • Click the Tactical switch to turn off and accept the mode setting.

And now, here is what you get with each of the three mode sets:

Daily Mode (available levels: Ultra-Low, Low, Med, High, Turbo, SOS)

Daily Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Tactical switch: Momentary On (i.e., turns Off when released).
  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns On in last memorized mode used.
  • Press-and-hold Function switch: Momentary Ultra-Low. If you keep holding the switch down for >3 secs, it will stay locked On when you release the switch.
  • Single-click Function switch: Nothing but a single flash of Ultra-Low (i.e., there is no single-click option – the Function switch acts as a momentary press-and-hold only, see above).

Daily Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns Off
  • Press-and-hold Function switch >1 sec: Turns on SOS.
  • Single-click Function switch: Advances through modes in sequence from Low > Med > High > Turbo.

Tactical Mode (available levels: Low, Med, Hi, Turbo, Strobe)

Tactical Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Tactical switch: Momentary On in last memorized constant output mode.
  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns On in last memorized constant output mode.
  • Press-and-hold Function switch: Momentary Strobe. If you keep holding the switch down for >3 secs, it will stay locked On when you release the switch.
  • Single-click Function switch: Nothing but a single flash of Strobe (i.e., there is no single-click option – the Function switch acts as a momentary press-and-hold only, see above).

Tactical Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns Off.
  • Press-and-hold Function switch >1 sec: Turns On Strobe.
  • Single-click Function switch: Advances through modes in sequence from  Low > Med > High > Turbo.

Special Mode (available levels: Ultra-Low, Low, High)

Special Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Tactical switch: Momentary On at High level.
  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns On at High level.
  • Press-and-hold Function switch: Momentary On at High level. If you keep holding the switch down for >3 secs, it will stay On when you release the switch.
  • Single-click Function switch: Nothing but a single flash of High (i.e., there is no single-click option – the Function switch acts as a momentary press-and-hold only, see above).

Special Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Tactical switch: Turns Off.
  • Press-and-hold Function switch: Nothing, except when you release the switch it  advances you through modes as explained below (i.e., there is no press-and-hold option in this mode, just a click option).
  • Single-click Function switch: Advances though modes as follows: High > Low > Ultra-Low.

Short-cuts:

  • To Ultra-Low: In Daily mode, press-and-hold or click the Function switch from Off.
  • To Hi: In Special mode, press-and-hold Function switch from Off, or click the tactical switch from Off.
  • To Strobe: In Tactical mode, press-and-hold Function switch from Off.
  • To SOS: In Daily mode, press-and-hold Function switch from Off.

Mode memory:

Yes, but only in Daily Mode and Tactical Model, for constant output levels (i.e., Strobe and SOS are accessed by the Function switch). There is no memory for the Special Mode, which always activates in High.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, for Strobe and SOS – but they are located on separate Mode sets.

Low voltage warning:

Yes. As the battery drains, the light steps down in levels. Once the light reaches the Low level, the main LED starts to flash 3 times every 30 secs.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but only by physically locking out the light at the tailcap.

Reviewer Comments:

There are a few surprising quirks with this triple-mode interface.

First off, it seems odd that a “tactical” light has no dedicated mode option (or even a short-cut) to jump to Turbo (just the High level, in the Special mode set). But this might become somewhat clearer when you check out the runtimes below. In any case, you can access Turbo by cycling through the main sequence in Daily mode or Tactical Mode – and have the light memorize this choice.

Personally, I plan to use this light in Daily Mode exclusively, as this is that the mode set with access to widest range of levels (i.e., everything except Strobe).

That said, I’m not crazy that the Function switch works differently depending on whether the light is On or Off. Furthermore, it’s odd that the various Modes sets are inconsistent in this regard – that is, when the Function switch acts as a clicky (typically only when On), or when it acts as press-and-hold (always when Off, sometimes when On). Specifically, the Daily and Tactical Mode sets assign a special function to a press-and-hold when On (SOS or Strobe, respectively), but Special Mode doesn’t (i.e., just acts like a long click). They might as well have put a Beacon option in Special mode, just for the sake of consistency if nothing else.  Indeed, I would have preferred a Beacon option in Daily mode, as I’ve always found SOS a bit silly (but it does a similar enough job).

I certainly like that the Daily mode gives an option to activate from Off into Ultra-Low – I always look for a way to jump to that mode from Off. And quirks aside, I do like having a physical forward clicky back as the main switch – call me old-school.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Ultra-low:
Ultra-Lo

Low:
Lo

Medium:
Med

Hi:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM on any level – the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. This is also no sign of high-frequency noise at any level. This is refreshing – although PWM is very rare nowadays, it is not uncommon to see some (visually-undetectable) circuit noise.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 5 Hz and 10 Hz strobes every 2.5 secs.

SOS:

A fairly typical SOS mode.

Charging:

The P17 comes with Acebeam’s 21700 battery with a built-in charging port. There is a small LED on the positive terminal of the battery, which shows red when the cell is charging, and green when it is fully charged. In my testing, resting voltage of the cell was ~4.19V at termination.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The Acebeam 21700 5100mAh battery shows an initial low USB-C charging current of ~0.20A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), which jumps up to ~1.2A once the cell is >3.0V resting. This two-current charging is a good design, and indicates a safe integrated charging circuit. The max charging rate is a bit lower than most lights/batteries in this class, but much better than the original version of this battery when I tested on the E70.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 0.19 mA. This is a reasonably low standby drain, and it would take just over 3 years to fully drain the cell. Regardless, I always recommend you physically lockout the light at the tailcap to prevent accidental activation when not in use.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics of my sample in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

P17 on High:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5565K, and a slight positive tint shift (+0.0115 Duv) toward greenish-yellow at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 66.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the cool white white XHP70.3 HI emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light. As mentioned previously, I see no obvious chromatic variation in the beam of my sample.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the P17 has a throwy beam, with an impressive amount of overall output. This gives you the best of both worlds. It is a super nice beam profile, without artifacts or noticeable chromatic variations.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

P17 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Ultra-Low33.13.1---NoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---
Low90115115---NoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---
Med580570565---NoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---
High2,2002,3002,250---NoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g5,5650.011866
Turbo4,9005,2504,95048,700 cd44,100 cd420 mNoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---
Strobe2,000-----5-10 HzNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---
SOS2,000-----NoNo0.21 A1.2 A0.19 mA153 g233 g---

At all levels, there is a remarkably good concordance between published specs and what my lightbox reports.

My NIST-calibrated luxmeter reports slightly lower beam distance measures, but that is not uncommon in my testing. It’s still an impressive amount of throw.

I don’t really expect to see a Moonlight mode in a light like this, but the ~3 lumen Ultra-Low mode is quite reasonable.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

 

Med

The runtime results show you the benefit of having a good thermal mass – The P17 shows very impressive stable regulation on the High level without step-down. No other light in my testing to date has managed the feat of sustained flat output of >2200 lumens for over an hour.

Further, the Turbo mode is quite reasonable too: ~5000 lumens output to start, dropping down within minutes to a stable flat ~1300 lumens for nearly 2 hours.

Taken together, this may help to explain why the Special Mode (aka “Tactical mode 2”) goes automatically to High and not Turbo. High is the fully sustained high output level.

In any case, the P17 shows impressive output/runtime efficiency and regulation on all levels, consistent with an excellent current-controlled driver. I never get tired of seeing those perfectly flat output runtimes. Performance of the XHP70.3 HI emitter in this light is very consistent with other good quality lights running XHP70.2 HD lights in my testing (although I greatly prefer the XHP70.3 HI for its improved beam profile).

You can see the low-voltage warning coming on during the final Low level step-down (~115 lumens). At this point, the LED flashes three times every 30 secs – which is picked up by the sampling frequency of my DMM light meter as those irregular drops to zero at the end of the Med runtime above.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excellent output/runtime efficiency, at all levels, with the High mode as a particular stand-out.Turbo step-down level is lower than the defined High level.
Circuit shows very good flat regulation, with thermally-mediated step-down on Turbo only.There is no mode set when Turbo comes on by default (either has mode memory, or High mode on activation).
Uses a dual tail switch design, with the option of three Mode setsLacks a true Moonlight mode, but has a very good low level.
Exceptionally good build quality and hand feel.
Great beam profile, with good balance between throw and flood, without chromatic aberrations.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

There are some lights that you just pick up for the first time and go, “Oh, yeah.” By which I mean, there is an ineffable quality that just immediately tells you they got this light right. The P17 is one of those lights.

If I were to break down what that means to me, it starts with the handfeel – which is itself a complex term that includes overall heft, weight balance across the light as it fits in your hand (for both overhand and underhand carry), switch placement and feel, and the tactile feel of the surface of the light itself (i.e., just the right gripiness). That later point is not just the type or degree of knurling (although that is important) or other grip items like cut-outs and clips – good quality thick anodizing can often have a more “grippy” texture (e.g., Armytek is a good example of this). This light gets all of those features just right in my view.

Next is the beam pattern when you turn it on. To be sure, sometimes you want a very focused beam, and sometimes you may want full flood. But often you are looking for a good balance between relative throw and spill – the later involving both how wide and how bright the spill beam is. And then finally how “pretty” the beam is (i.e., lack of aberrations across the range of the beam, including a lack of chromatic variations). Again, as the beamshots above show, this light just really seems to really find that sweet spot – with fantastic output levels to boot.

As I started to handle the light though, I found some of the user interface choices a bit odd. For example, I’m used to having multiple mode sets on “tactical” dual switch lights, and the Daily mode here is generally well suited to my needs. But typically there is a dedicated “tactical” mode where the light always comes on at the maximum output level, with the option for a high-frequency strobe depending on which switch is used. But this light doesn’t do that – the Tactical mode has mode memory (so the light comes on in the last memorized output level), without so much as even a shortcut to Turbo. There is a secondary tactical mode – called the Special mode here – that ditches the level memory, but comes on at the lower High level (and has no strobe option).

I still think this arrangement is odd, but after my runtime tests I can understand why they choose the High level (instead of Turbo) for the non-memorized Special mode set: The P17 is an outstanding performer at the High level. It is in fact the only light I’ve tested so far that can stably produce >2200 lumens in a fully flat-regulated level for over an hour. If you opted for ~5000 initial lumens on Turbo, you would have to put up with the fact that the light quickly steps down to a (very common) lower ~1300 lumen level for its extended run.

This unusual UI is really why I’ve knocked half a star off – everything else about the light, including output/runtime efficiency and regulation, make this light a top performer in the high-output class of 1×21700 lights. Another great showing from Acebeam, and a real pleasure to handle and use!

Acknowledgement

The P17 was supplied by Acebeam for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$120 USD (~$160 CDN).

Skilhunt H300

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The H300 is a compact headlamp flashlight with a floody beam with excellent colour rendition, running on a single included 18650 battery.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Following on my review of the Skilhunt M300, I also have their 18650-based headlamp version on hand, the H300. This light uses the same magnetic charging dock as its larger sibling.

Also like that other light, you can select your own emitter from a good range of options. For the H300, you can select between CREE XHP50.2 Cool White 6500K, CREE XHP50.2 Neutral White 5000K, CREE XHP50.3 HI 6500K, CREE High CRI J2 90 CRI 5000K, and Nichia 144ART R9050 sm453 4500K.

Wow, that’s a lot of options. Although I was most interested in the Cree Hi CRI J2 90, I opted instead to go for the Nichia 144ART, to facilitate comparison to the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia that I previously reviewed. As always, when it comes to headlamps especially, I recommend people consider high CRI options whenever possible. But the advantage here is that you can select the emitter option that best suits your needs.

Let’s see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSkilhunt
ModelH300
EmitterNichia 144ART R9050
Tint4500 K 90 CRI
Max Output (Lumens)1,500
Min Output (Lumens)0.5
Max Runtime150+ hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)4,500 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)134 m
Constant Levels7
FlashingStrobe 1/2
Battery1x18650
Weight (w/o battery)54 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length104.7 mm
Head Diameter25.2 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIPX-8 1m

Package Details





The light comes in a fairly standard shelf-presentation style box, with a description of the features and characteristics printed on it. Inside is a professional looking package, with the cover tab under the the plastic tray holder. My sample came with an extra light carrying pouch in a small plastic bag.

Inside the box, I found:

  • Skilhunt H300 flashlight
  • Skilhunt BL-135 3500mAh 18650 battery (optional)
  • Headband & mounting bracket
  • Wrist lanyard
  • Pocket clip
  • USB magnetic charging dock
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Spare switch cover
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. It’s good that they included the pocket clip for carry (although it is the simple press-fit variety). This is a good set of extras.

Build


From left to right: Skilhunt 18650 (3500mAh), Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70 Mini, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, Acebeam E70, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Convoy S21E, Fenix E35 v3, Imalent MS03, Skilhunt H300, Skilhunt M300 V2, Wurkkos TS22.











The H300 is a very compact build, with lots of design elements to help with grip (although the concentric rings on the body and tailcap are not as sharp as the M300). The headband bracket seems to hold the light reasonably well. I like the inclusion of the pocket clip, in case you want to carry it as an angle-light clipped to you, bezel-up. I would say the overall size is pretty compact for a 18650 headlamp – definitely on the smaller size of ones I’ve handled.

There is a raised rubberized switch cover over the electronic switch (replaceable, thanks to the retaining ring). Underneath are a pair of red and blue LEDs, to signal various states of the light/battery. Switch feel is good, with a standard traverse/tactile feedback for an electronic switch.

There is a magnetic charging dock on the top of the head of the light (same charging cable as the M300). One nice thing about magnetic charging docks is that waterproofness is not a concern – the light looks quite spashable/dunkable (although note that I do not test for this in my reviews).

Tailstanding is very stable, thanks to the flat tailcap (there is a side cut-out to allow you thread the basic wrist lanyard through, if you wanted to carry it that way). Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap.

There is a magnet in the tailcap, so you attached the light stably to any metal surface. A useful feature in worklight/headlamp model.

There are tailsprings in both the tailcap and head, so flat-top cells will also work just find (and the battery should be held in place fairly securely).

Anodizing is a flat black in matte finish, and looks to be good quality on my sample with no damage or issues. Skilhunt reports it is type III (hard anodized), and I see no reason to doubt that.

Inside, my sample came with the optional Skilhunt-branded button-top 3500mAh 18650 battery.

The common M300/H300 USB charging dock also comes with blue and red LEDs, to signal charging status. The magnet has a reasonably strong pull (not as heavy as some), and locks into place easily.




My H300 came with the Nichia 144ART emitter, and features a heavily textured optic. This produces a nice and even flood light, with a brighter centre. Scroll down to my Emitter Measures section to see how my sample performs.

The bezel is like the switch retaining ring, allowing you access to the optic and emitter.

Note that despite the charging dock on the top of the head, you can still headstand stably.

User Interface

The H300 uses the latest version of the Skilhunt user interface (UI), just the M300, and has a reasonably good number of modes and features. You get two Low modes, three Regular modes (two Med modes, one High mode), two Turbo modes, and three Strobe modes – organized into those four mode sets.

One comment to make up front – the mode level labels are different from most lights in that the lower number for a given level is actually the higher output (so, for example, T1 is brighter than T2). That means the constant output modes, in sequence, are: L2 > L1, M2 > M1 > H, and T2 > T1.

The manual doesn’t describe the three strobe modes, but for sake of this review I will refer to them as S3 = Strobe, S2 = SOS, and S1 = Beacon.

Let me break down the full interface for you:

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns On in memorized Low mode (L2 or L1).
  • Single-click: Turns On in memorized Regular mode (M2, M1, or H).
  • Double-click: Turns On in memorized Turbo mode (T2 or T1).
  • Triple-click: Turns on in memorized strobe mode (S3, S2, or S1).
  • 4 clicks: Activates the electronic Lockout mode.
    • Press-and-hold for momentary Moonlight (i.e., lowest Low, L2)
    • While in lockout, the switch indicator light will flash red every second, but that can be toggled off/on with a double-click.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle to the next level within the current mode level set (constant output modes only, doesn’t work for Strobe).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to the memorized Turbo level (from Regular modes only), or back to Regular modes if already in Turbo (note this doesn’t work from Low modes or Strobe modes)
  • Triple-click: Jumps to the memorized Strobe mode (from Regular or Turbo), or back to most recent Regular or Turbo if already in Strobe mode.

Strobe modes:

  • Triple-click: Turns On in memorized Strobe mode.
  • Double-click: Cycles through the Strobe modes in sequence:
    • S3 – Strobe
    • S2 – SOS
    • S1 – Beacon

Mode memory:

Yes, each mode set retains its own memory for the last level selected in that mode set.

Shortcuts:

  • To Low (L2 or L1): Press-and-hold from Off.
  • To Turbo (T2 or T1): Double-click from Off or when On in Regular mode.
  • To Strobe (S1, S2, or S3): Triple-click from Off or when On in Regular or Turbo mode.

Low voltage warning:

When the battery is running very low (<3.0V according to the manual), the switch indicator light will flash red, and the main emitter will flash every couple of seconds. the light will shut off at 2.7V according to the manual.

Lock-out mode: 

  • 4 clicks from Off: Activates the electronic Lockout mode.
  • Physical lockout is also possible by simply unscrewing the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

Yes. The LED under the switch indicates the battery status for the first ~5 secs after turning on:

  • Solid Blue: >80% Battery power remaining.
  • Flashing Blue: 50-80% Battery power remaining.
  • Solid Red: 20-50% Battery power remaining
  • Flashing Red: <20% Battery power remaining.

These are identical to the M300, and seem reasonable to me.

Video Overview:

Please see the video below, which walks you through the common UI and build features of this light and its M300 V2 sibling:

Reviewer Comments:

Like many of the recent lights I’ve reviewed, I find this UI to be very reasonable, and relatively versatile. Of course, you are never going to please everyone with any given UI (e.g., I would like to see double-click reliably jumping to Turbo, and have the Low modes as part of a regular sequence without having to go through off first). But these are really quibbles, the light does reasonably well.

One small thing I would like is the ability to independently turn on the the blue switch indicator, to serve as an additional “moonlight mode”. This is something the Anduril-based lights allow (if implemented, like on the Sofirn IF25A), and some other new UIs (like the Wurkkos TS22).

Allowing momentary L2 when in the electronic lockout is a nice touch. But as always, I recommend locking out the light at the tailcap when not in use.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

L2:
Lo

M2:
Mid

H:
Hi

T2:
Turbo

T1:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM on any level – the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. This is also no sign of high-frequency noise at any level. This is refreshing – although PWM is very rare nowadays, it is not uncommon to see some (visually-undetectable) circuit noise.

Strobes:

S3 – Strobe:


S3 Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 14 Hz strobes (1 sec for 6Hz, 3 secs for 14 Hz).

S2 – SOS:

S2 is a SOS mode.

S1 – Beacon:

S3 is a 1hz slow signalling strobe.

Charging:

The magnetic charging dock switches from blue (when power is supplied) to solid red when connected and charging the H300. Switches back to solid blue when the charging is complete.

In my testing, resting voltage of the cell was ~4.12V at termination. This is lower than typical, but is easier on the cell. Note that the charging dock won’t initiate a charge cycle if the cell is above 4.0V resting, just like the Armytek charging dock.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The M300 doesn’t really have a two-stage charging feature, but it does start off at a lower charge rate when the cell is heavily depleted <3V (1.58A shown above, rises to 1.64A within a minute or so).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 29 uA. This is an extremely low standby drain, and will not appreciably affect the light (i.e., it would take just under 14 years to fully drain the included cell). Regardless, I always recommend you lockout the light when not in use – either by electronic lockout, or better yet physically by twisting the tailcap.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics of my sample in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

H300 on H (Hi):

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4350K, and a very slight negative tint shift (-0.0022 Duv) to orange at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 93 – very respectable for Hi CRI.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the Nichia 144ART emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light. Like many enthusiasts, I prefer a negative tint shift on a neutral white emitter.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As expected, the beam pattern is very similar to the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, although the H300’s optic is perhaps a touch less floody overall.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

H300 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
L210.350.35---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
L142.72.7---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
M2252121---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
M1115135135---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
H330365360---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g4,355-0.002293
T2860990970---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
T11,5001,8501,7505,250 cd4,940 cd141 mNoNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
S3------1 HzNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
S2------SOSNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---
S1------6-14 HzNo1.55 A1.65 A29 uA55 g106 g---

Like with the M300, I am finding generally good concordance of published specs with what my lightbox reports – although I’m measuring somewhat higher output on the high through Turbo modes on my sample.

And once again, my NIST-calibrated luxmeter also reports slightly higher beam distance measures as well, showing these results are consistent. An impressive showing!

I’m also impressed to see a true “moonlight” low mode (L2) here, which clocked in around 0.35 lumens in my testing. Yay!

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

Skilhunt shows both excellent output/runtime efficiency and regulation, consistent with a top-quality current-controlled driver.

As you can see above, the Nichia 144ART-equipped H300 performs very comparably to the Nichia 144AR-equipped Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia. The initial output and step-down levels are very comparable, as are the runtimes. If you do an area-under-the-curve analysis, the Armytek model seems to have a very slight edge in terms of overall output/runtime efficiency, but it is pretty inconsequential (and could simply be due to variation in emitter output bins). For all intents and purposes, I would find these models equivalent. It really comes down to which build/UI you prefer. For example, I note the Armytek is slightly heavier and longer (by ~8g and ~7mm). But again, there is not a big functional difference between them.

To better show the Turbo step-down pattern on T1/T2, here is a blow-up view of those first few mins:

Max-extended

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
The light shows excellent current-controlled efficiency across all levels.User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class, but it does have some small quirks and limitations.
Circuit shows excellent regulation, with stable runtimes and reasonable step-down levels and duration.Magnetic charging dock performance is good but won't initiate a charge >4.0V resting, and terminates @~4.12V resting.
Great overall range of output levels, with a true Moonlight mode.
Textured optic provides an extremely floody beam, with no real hotspot.
Very compact build with good quality and decent feel.
Includes a bidirectional pocket clip, in addition to headband

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The H300 is another great performer from Skilhunt. As with the M300, it has a high quality feel, good design and some nice stylistic touches. Switch feel is good, and the user interface is very reasonable for the class. The charging dock worked well in my testing, consistent with others who use this magnetic design (e.g., Armytek). The headband works well, and I find this to be to a particularly comfortable 1×18650 headlamp (i.e., it is a bit lighter than some others).

The H300’s circuit shows a great range of levels, and features excellent output/runtime efficiency and regulation. In these regards, it is virtually identical to the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia (which I also awarded 5-stars). I suppose that isn’t too surprising, since I opted for basically the same emitter here. But one of the great advantages of Skilhunt is that you can select from a quite a number of emitters – it is good to have so many options.

The overall build of the two lights is comparable, although the H300 is a bit smaller and lighter. That makes it more comfortable as a headlamp, but also means it steps down a bit faster on its Turbo mode (due to the lower thermal mass). Beam patterns are fairly comparable too – very even and floody, with a great tint and high CRI (with the Nichia 144ART). And as always, it’s great to see the <1 lumen Moonlight mode here.

There is really not much to critique here, it really is a great all-around headlamp/worklight. Another very strong option to consider – highly recommended!

Acknowledgement

The H300 was supplied by Skilhunt for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$95 USD with discounts (~$125 CDN).

Skilhunt M300 V2

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The M300 V2 is a compact general-purpose flashlight running on a single included 21700 battery.Includes a colourful build and versatile user interface.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I remember when Skilhunt first came on the scene, over a decade ago. Their early lights had a distinctive rakish design, with cut-outs showing gold-plated brass heatsinks (I believe I referred to them at the time as a steam-punk aesthetic). I was glad to see they are still around, upon my return to reviewing. I see that they have moved to a more minimalist build, with a good number of headlamp models, and a strong focus on built-in magnetic charging docks.

This is the first of two Skilhunt lights that I have on hand for testing (the H300 review will be coming soon). A really nice feature is the option to select your own emitter – with a good range of options. Case in point for the M300: you can select between CREE XHP50.3 HI Cool White 6500K, CREE XHP50.2 HD Neutral White 5000K, CREE XHP50.2 HD Ra90 High CRI 5000K, and Nichia 144ART R9050 sm453 4500K.

I’ve opted to go for the XHP50.2 HD Neutral White 5000K for this review, for the highest maximum output of 3000 lumens. Normally, I would have opted for one of the High CRI versions, or the cool white HI emitter (for better throw and reduced chromatic aberrations). But it’s good to compare maximum output versions for comparative purposes, and I was glad to see the max 3000 lumens was available with the XHP50.2 neutral white.  As always, you can select the emitter option that best suits your needs.

Let’s see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSkilhunt
ModelM300 V2
EmitterXHP50.2 HD Neutral White
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)3,000
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime200 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)12,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)219 m
Constant Levels7
FlashingStrobe 1/2/3
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)75 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length120 mm
Head Diameter29.5 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIPX-8 1m

Package Details






The light comes in a fairly standard shelf-presentation style box, with a description of the features and characteristics printed on it. Inside is a professional looking package, with the cover tab under the plastic tray holder. My sample came with an extra light carrying pouch in a small plastic bag.

Inside the box, I found:

  • Skilhunt M300 V2 flashlight
  • Skilhunt BL-250 5000mAh 21700 battery (optional)
  • Wrist lanyard
  • Bi-directional pocket clip
  • USB magnetic charging dock
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. As always, I would have liked to have seen a holster, but at least they included a bi-directional pocket clip and a carry pouch. This is a good set of extras.

Build


From left to right: Skilhunt 18650 (3500mAh), Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70 Mini, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, Acebeam E70, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Convoy S21E, Fenix E35 v3, Imalent MS03, Skilhunt H300, Skilhunt M300 V2, Wurkkos TS22.











The M300 is a solid build, with lots of design elements to help with grip, including sharp concentric rings on the body and tailcap, and with large cut-out ridges. There is also a raised metallic blue ring surrounding the switch, and a magnetic charging dock on the opposite site of the head. Ironically, while these both help with grip, it can make identifying the switch by feel alone difficult (i.e., hard to tell the two apart by touch). But a simple solution is simply to squeeze both areas with your thumb and forefinger simultaneously to activate the light, if you can’t see what you are doing.

Along with the switch and dock areas, there are relatively flat cut-outs on the other two sides of the head, helping limit the roll of the light (better than I expected, frankly). That said, if you really want to prevent roll you are going to want to attach the removable pocket clip (which would also further help with grip, not that it really needs it). I like the bi-directional design of the clip, so that you can carry it bezel up or down.

I would say the overall size is about typical for the compact 1×21700 class – not the smallest, but also not largest I’ve seen. Handfeel is good, it is comfortable to hold and use.

The electronic switch has blue and red LEDs underneath it, which can be used to signal status of the light or battery. Switch feel is good, with a standard traverse/tactile feedback for an electronic switch. The metallic blue switch surround is distinctive looking.

One nice thing about magnetic charging docks is that waterproofness is not a concern – the light looks quite spashable/dunkable (although note that I do not test for this in my reviews).

Tailstanding is very stable, thanks to the flat tailcap (there is a side cut-out to allow you thread the basic wrist lanyard through). Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap. There is a decently robust tailspring in the tailcap, suggesting higher current draws won’t be a problem.

Anodizing is a distinctive gun-metal gray colour, and looks to be good quality on my sample with no damage or issues, in matte finish. Skilhunt reports it is type III (hard anodized), and I see no reason to doubt that. I would say the colour goes well with the metallic blue switch surround and bezel ring.

Inside, my sample came with the optional Skilhunt-branded button-top 5000mAh 21700 battery. The battery is labelled as high-drain (15A), so that should similarly not limit maximum output.

The USB charging dock also comes with blue and red LEDs, to signal charging status. The magnet has a strong pull, and locks into place easily.




My M300 came with a XHP50.2 HD emitter, in neutral white. The reflector is fairly shallow and textured (moderate orange peel, OP). However, as expected, there is noticeable tint/colour shifting across the periphery of the beam (a well-known issue with HD emitters of the XHP family). This one seems more pronounced than most, with a relatively neutral white hotspot surrounded by an extensive corona that is very yellowish-green, and then a relatively cooler spill beam with a purplish edge. Scroll down to my Emitter Measures section more details and a discussion. There is a mild purplish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens.

The bezel is crenelated stainless steel, with a stylish metallic blue colour to match the switch surround. Scalloping is not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably.

User Interface

The M300 uses the latest version of the Skilhunt user interface (UI), and has a reasonably good number of modes and features. You get two Low modes, three Regular modes (two Med modes, one High mode), two Turbo modes, and three Strobe modes – organized into those four mode sets.

One comment to make up front – the mode level labels are different from most lights in that the lower number for a given level is actually the higher output (so, for example, T1 is brighter than T2). That means the constant output modes, in sequence, are: L2 > L1, M2 > M1 > H, and T2 > T1.

The manual doesn’t describe the three strobe modes, but for sake of this review I will refer to them as S3 = Strobe, S2 = SOS, and S1 = Beacon.

Let me break down the full interface for you:

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns On in memorized Low mode (L2 or L1).
  • Single-click: Turns On in memorized Regular mode (M2, M1, or H).
  • Double-click: Turns On in memorized Turbo mode (T2 or T1).
  • Triple-click: Turns on in memorized strobe mode (S3, S2, or S1).
  • 4 clicks: Activates the electronic Lockout mode.
    • Press-and-hold for momentary Moonlight (i.e., lowest Low, L2)
    • While in lockout, the switch indicator light will flash red every second, but that can be toggled off/on with a double-click.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle to the next level within the current mode level set (constant output modes only, doesn’t work for Strobe).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to the memorized Turbo level (from Regular modes only), or back to Regular modes if already in Turbo (note this doesn’t work from Low modes or Strobe modes)
  • Triple-click: Jumps to the memorized Strobe mode (from Regular or Turbo), or back to most recent Regular or Turbo if already in Strobe mode.

Strobe modes:

  • Triple-click: Turns On in memorized Strobe mode.
  • Double-click: Cycles through the Strobe modes in sequence:
    • S3 – Strobe
    • S2 – SOS
    • S1 – Beacon

Mode memory:

Yes, each mode set retains its own memory for the last level selected in that mode set.

Shortcuts:

  • To Low (L2 or L1): Press-and-hold from Off.
  • To Turbo (T2 or T1): Double-click from Off or when On in Regular mode.
  • To Strobe (S1, S2, or S3): Triple-click from Off or when On in Regular or Turbo mode.

Low voltage warning:

When the battery is running very low (<3.0V according to the manual), the switch indicator light will flash red, and the main emitter will flash every couple of seconds. The light will shut off at 2.7V according to the manual.

Lock-out mode: 

  • 4 clicks from Off: Activates the electronic Lockout mode.
  • Physical lockout is also possible by simply unscrewing the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

Yes. The LED under the switch indicates the battery status for the first ~5 secs after turning on:

  • Solid Blue: >80% Battery power remaining.
  • Flashing Blue: 50-80% Battery power remaining.
  • Solid Red: 20-50% Battery power remaining
  • Flashing Red: <20% Battery power remaining.

These seem reasonable to me, and similar to the Sofirn C8L that I recently reviewed.

Video Overview:

Please see the video below, which walks you through the common UI and build features of this light and its H300 headlamp sibling:

Reviewer Comments:

Like many of the recent lights I’ve reviewed, I find this UI to be very reasonable, and relatively versatile. Of course, you are never going to please everyone with any given UI (e.g., I would like to see double-click reliably jumping to Turbo, and have the Low modes as part of a regular sequence without having to go through off first). But these are really quibbles, the light does reasonably well.

One small thing I would like is the ability to independently turn on the the blue switch indicator, to serve as an additional “moonlight mode”. This is something the Anduril-based lights allow (if implemented, like on the Sofirn IF25A), and some other new UIs (like the Wurkkos TS22).

Allowing momentary L2 when in the electronic lockout is a nice touch. But as always, I recommend locking out the light at the tailcap when not in use.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

L2:
Lo

M2:
Mid

H:
Hi

T2:
Turbo

T1:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM on any level – the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. This is also no sign of high-frequency noise at any level. This is refreshing – although PWM is very rare nowadays, it is not uncommon to see some (visually-undetectable) circuit noise.

Strobes:

S3 – Strobe:


S3 Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 14 Hz strobes (1 sec for 6Hz, 3 secs for 14 Hz).

S2 – SOS:

S2 is clearly a SOS mode.

S1 – Beacon:

S3 is a 1hz slow signalling strobe.

Charging:

The magnetic charging dock switches from blue (when charger power is provided) to solid red when connected and charging the M300. The dock switches back to solid blue when the charging is complete.

In my testing, resting voltage of the cell was ~4.12V at termination. This is lower than typical, but is easier on the cell. Note that the charging dock won’t initiate a charge cycle if the cell is above 4.0V resting, just like the Armytek charging dock.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The M300 doesn’t really have a two-stage charging feature, but it does start off at a lower charge rate when the cell is heavily depleted <3V (1.55A shown above, rises to 1.62A within a minute or so).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 25.4 uA. This is an extremely low standby drain, and will not appreciably affect the light (i.e., it would take ~22.5 years to fully drain the cell). Regardless, I always recommend you lockout the light when not in use – either by electronic lockout, or better yet physically by twisting the tailcap.

Emitter Measures

In this section, I directly measure key emitter characteristics of my sample in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

M300 on H (Hi):

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4420K, and a moderately positive tint shift (+0.0117 Duv) to yellowish at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 67.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the neutral white XHP50.2 emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light.

Note that the standard measures above refer to the hotspot specifically. As you move away, there is always some variation in colour temperature and tint with XHPx0.2 emitters. Since my return to reviewing, I’ve found the XHP50.2 emitters are particularly prone to this, and I did notice significant tint/colour shift across the beam on this particular sample. As such, I decide to do some some additional measures.

Below are are two beamshots on a white wall of the Hi (H) level. I’ve chosen two different exposure times to better show the hotspot and spill. Camera is set to daylight white balance, and this matches pretty well to what I see by eye. I’ve also taken additional colour temp/tint readings at the various points identified:


Here are those specific measures again:

Hotspot: ~4400K, Duv +0.0117 : Neutral-warm white, somewhat yellowish tint.

Corona: ~4150K, Duv +0.0148 : Slightly warmer white, even more yellowish tint.

Mid-spillbeam: ~4950K, Duv +0.0025 : Neutral-cool white, no significant tint shift at all.

Spillbeam edge: ~6000K, Duv -0.0003 : Cool white, no significant tint shift.

Note that the spillbeam edge is much lower intensity (and thus more variable on the lightmeter). It also doesn’t show up well at the exposure settings above – but it definitely appears to the eye that there is a cooler white ring all along the outside edge. XHPx0.2 emitters are well known to produce these, although I suspect this is enhanced here due in part to the purplish AR coating on the lens and to reflections off the blue stainless steel bezel ring (both of which are “cooling” the CCT tint readings and providing this subjective edge effect).

Again, these colour temp/tint shifts are predominantly a characteristic of the XHP50.2 emitter selected here. But as this sample has a more significant variation in the beam profile than I typically notice, I’ve provided the extra context above. As an aside, this is why I generally prefer XHPx0.3 HI emitters, as they don’t show as severe chromatic variation.

Note that you can even see this effect somewhat in my outdoor beamshots below as well.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the M300 has a balanced beam, consistent with its smaller reflector (i.e., more on the floody side). Output seems particularly high for 3000 lumens light.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

M300 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
L210.90.9---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
L164.14.1---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
M2606060---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
M1230245245---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
H610610610---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g4,4200.011767
T21,1301,1501,150---NoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
T13,0003,6503,35015,400 cd14,200 cd238 mNoNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
S3------1 HzNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
S2------SOSNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---
S1------6-14 HzNo1.55 A1.65 A25.4 uA75 g147 g---

For most of the levels, there is a remarkably good concordance with my lightbox. The one exception is the T1 level – where I actually measured slightly higher output than the specification.

By the same token, my NIST-calibrated luxmeter actually reports slightly higher beam distance measures as well, showing these results are consistent. An impressive showing!

I’m also happy to see a ~1 lumen “moonlight” low mode here (i.e., L2). I would prefer a true <1 lumen moonlight though.

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

Skilhunt shows both excellent output/runtime efficiency and regulation, consistent with a top-quality current-controlled driver.

As you can see above, the XHP50.2-equipped M300 shows overall output and runtime on T1 and T2 that is very similar to the XHP50.3-equipped Sofirn C8L (another very efficient light). As expected, XHP50.x lights show output performance intermediate to the XHP70.x/SST70-equipped lights and SFT40-equipped lights.

These results are all the more impressive when you consider there is a ~1 lumen “moonlight” mode (L2) included on the M300. Most of the other lights shown above don’t go as low, so this is a plus for the M300.

The regulation pattern is also impressive. Along with perfectly flat and stable outputs, you also get a reasonable amount of time at lower levels before the light shuts down. This is plenty of warning to stop and recharge.

To better show the Turbo step-down pattern on T1/T2, here is a view of just those two levels on this light:

Max-extended

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excelent output/runtime efficiency, consistent with other good current-controlled lights with the XHP50 emitter.User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class, but it does have some small quirks and limitations.
Circuit shows excellent regulation, with stable runtimes and reasonable step-down levels and duration.There is a noticeable colour temperature/tint shift across the spillbeam with this XHP50.2 emitter (you may want to consider an alternate choice from Skilhunt).
Although not a true "moonlight" mode, the lowest output is reasonable and effective at ~1 lumen.Magnetic charging dock performance is good and consistent with others, and won't initiate a charge >4.0V resting voltage.
Compact build with good quality and decent handfeel.
Includes a bidirectional pocket clip

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The Skilhunt M300 ticks a lot of boxes for me. It has a high quality build, with a thoughtful design and some nice stylistic touches. Switch feel is good, and the user interface is very reasonable for the class. The charging dock worked well in my testing, consistent with others who use this magnetic design.

In terms of the circuit, the M300 is a great performer for the compact 1×21700 class. Higher output levels and runtime efficiency are on par with other good quality, constant-current circuits coupled with XHP50.x emitters. Regulation patterns are flat and stably regulated. The light even comes with a near “moonlight” level of ~0.9 lumens in my testing, which is better than most lights nowadays. Very respectable performance – although I feel you need to have a proper <1 lumen moonlight mode to earn a full 5 stars on a general purpose EDC light.

The main thing I’m not crazy about on my sample is the pronounced colour tint/temperature shift across the beam profile. XHP50.2 HD emitters are known for their chromatic aberrations, so I expected this going in – although it is particularly pronounced here. The purplish AR lens coating and reflections off the blue stainless steel bezel ring may also be contributing to a relatively cool outer edge to the spillbeam.

This is the price you pay for selecting the emitter choice that produces the maximum output in this model (which I thought was important, in order to fairly compare to other lights I’ve reviewed with that emitter). But it is great that Skilhunt offers so many emitter options here – personally, I recommend you go with one of the high CRI options instead, or the XHP50.3 HI if you really want max output with minimal chromatic aberrations.

The M300 is a very nice light, well implemented, but there are some small issues that could be tweaked to give it a top score (i.e., true moonlight, some interface improvements, higher termination level for the dock, etc.).

I’m glad to see Skilhunt is still around and producing such quality lights.

Acknowledgement

The M300 V2 was supplied by Skilhunt for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$80 USD (~$105 CDN).

Wurkkos TS22

27 comments

The TS22 is a very compact but high output general-purpose flashlight, running on a single included 21700 battery. It features a well-regulated and efficient boost circuit for maximum performance.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Upon my return to reviewing this year, I quickly discovered that Wurkkos is a well-regarded newer “budget” flashlight maker. Indeed, like Convoy and Sofirn, I soon started receiving user requests to review their lights as well. The Wurkkos TS22 was always on my radar, given my initial focus on compact, EDC-style 1×21700 lights. I’m pleased that Wurkkos agreed to send me this model for review.

Building on their earlier popular FC12 and TS21 models, the TS22 features the high-output XHP70.2 emitter, and is rated for max output up to 4500 lumens. Note that my sample has a neutral white colour temperature (5000K) while still rated at the same 4500 max lumens as the cool white (6000K) version. FYI, according to the Wurkkos website, I see a new XHP70.3 HI emitter option (in cool white only) is also now available.

That’s a lot in a compact light, so I’m curious to see how it compares in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerWurkkos
ModelTS22
EmitterXHP70.2
Tint5000 K
Max Output (Lumens)4,500
Min Output (Lumens)10
Max Runtime280 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)9,150 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)191 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)95 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length122 mm
Head Diameter28 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details





One thing you may notice is the packaging looks virtually identical to the Sofirn C8L I just reviewed. Indeed, there are many aspects to the lights that also seem identical (see Build details below), making it clear to me that Wurkkos and Sofirn are sharing the same manufacturing plant (at least for these two models). Researching online, it seems the two firms have an association, with Sofirn providing the contract manufacturing capabilities for Wurkkos (though Wurkkos is a separate company).

The second thing you’ll notice is that a corner of the box on this sample got heavily dented/damaged in shipping (it was just wrapped in a waterproof packaging with no extra protection). But that’s just fine – the box is made of very hard cardboard with cut-out form inserts inside, so nothing important got damaged.

The box comes with a lot of printed specs and a clear separation of items and components inside (reminds me a bit of modern cell phone packaging). Inside the box, I found:

  • Wurkkos TS22 flashlight, with stainless steel pocket clip attached
  • Wurkkos-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. I particularly like the included bi-directional pocket clip, a nice touch given the low price.

Build


From left to right: Skilhunt 18650 (3500mAh), Wurkkos 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70 Mini, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, Acebeam E70, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Convoy S21E, Fenix E35 v3, Imalent MS03, Skilhunt H300, Skilhunt M300 V2, Wurkkos TS22.








The TS22 is a nice and solid build, with distinctive ridged cutouts along the body tube. This provides excellent grip without using actual knurling (and so, will be easier on fabric/clothes). Grip is especially good with the clip attached. It feels very solid and high quality, similar in handfeel to the Acebeam E70 (but a little smaller and lighter overall).

However, the light it most reminds me of is the Sofirn C8L that I recently reviewed. Just like I noted for the packaging above, I’m struck here by how the electronic switch cover looks and feels identical. The tailcap has the same battery orientation label (as well as the same body certification labels, the same heat warning on the head, etc). Even the base of the circuit board in the heads looks very similar. Although the actual ridge detailing is different, it is clear these two models are produced at the same manufacturing plant.

I am impressed with the physical build of this light. The bidirectional clip is a nice touch, and one I like seeing on a compact EDC-style light. The electronic switch has both green and red LEDs underneath, and light up to illustrate aspects of operation. I’m not crazy about the switch feel though – just like the C8L, I find there is just a bit too much play on the hard switch cover, and it’s possible that a glancing press may not properly connect. Note that like the Sofirn IF25A, you can activate a locator beacon function for the switch – but it is set by default to off on this light (see User Interface section for more info).

Tailstanding is very stable, thanks to the flat tailcap (there is a side cut-out to allow you thread the basic wrist lanyard through). Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily by a simple twist of the tailcap.

Note there is a magnet in the tailcap, allowing you stably mount the light horizontally (or upside-down) on any metal surface. Strength of the magnet is just about right in my view – enough to hold stably, but not as super-strong as some lights (e.g. Armytek, which tend to attract nearby metal objects).

The light’s USB-C charging port is located on the head opposite to the electronic switch. The port has a thick rubber cover. Just like the C8L, I found the cover to fit rather tightly, making it hard to full depress. But I suppose that should help with waterproofness if you can press it down enough.

Note that the light can roll easily if you take the pocket clip off, so I recommend you keep it on. Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin – not as glossy as some, but not completely matte either. Its a nice package, comfortable and well-balanced in the hand with decent grip.

Inside, the light comes with a Wurkkos-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. There is a small post in the head, ensuring good contact given the decently robust tailspring (which is often required to support higher current draws).



The TS22 uses a XHP70.2 emitter, coupled with a deep textured reflector (moderate orange peel, OP). As always, there is some colour shifting across the periphery of the beam (a well-known issue with XHP70.2 emitters). Unfortunately, this is accentuated by the purplish anti-reflective (AR) coating on the lens of my TS22 sample. That said, it’s still not as bad as some I’ve seen.

The bezel is crenelated bare aluminum – scalloping is not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably.

There is a very interesting option with this light, which is to turn on the switch indicator (green LED) when the battery and tailcap are connected. As I will explain below, this is a good way to give yourself an effective “moonlight” mode, depending on how you want to configure the UI.


Locator

The second pic above is a close-up on a white wall in the dark (not really this bright, using my cellphone’s auto-adjust mode). As you can see, the green is a bit uneven (i.e., center hotspot and semi-circular crescent below), but it does work well enough for dark-adapted eyes. Scroll down for more details on how to turn it on.

User Interface

Unlike the previous model it replaces, the TS22 is not using Anduril. Instead, it has its own customized user interface – which also has a lot of advanced features, and is at least comparable to many of the good quality Convoy and Sofirn lights.

To start, you have a choice between Stepped Ramping mode (default), or continuously-variable Smooth Ramping mode. To switch between these modes, click 4 times when the light is On.

Stepped Ramping mode (default) levels: Eco, Low, Mid, High, Turbo, and Strobe

From OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns on in Eco mode.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode.
  • Double-click: Turns On in Turbo (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • Triple-click: Turns On in Strobe (or, if auto lock-out engaged, turns On in the last memorized mode).
  • 4 clicks: Manually activate Lock-out mode. Double-click to unlock.
  • 5 clicks: Set the switch indicator button to constant-on green, flashing green (roughly one quick flash every 2 secs), or off (default setting). The setting is memorized for when you next reconnect the battery/tailcap. This allows the switch LED to serve as a locator beacon for the flashlight, or an impromptu moonlight mode (see below). Note that setting either constant or flashing green disables the auto lock-out function (again scroll down for a discussion).

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Cycle between Lo > Med > Hi (in sequence).
  • Single-click: Turns Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo. Note that doing a double-click from Turbo jumps you to Eco mode (which is odd, I would have expected it to jump back to whatever was previously memorized).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe.
  • 4 clicks: Switch between Stepped Ramping mode and Smooth Ramping mode

Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press-and-hold the switch from Off.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).
  • Strobe: Triple-click the switch from On or Off (if not auto-locked out).

Smooth Ramping mode levels: continuously-variable ramp from the Eco-level to Turbo, and Strobe.

Smooth ramping functions basically the same as Stepped ramping above, with the same shortcuts to Eco, Turbo and Strobe. The main difference is that a press-and-hold of the switch when On smoothly ramps across the entire output range (from Eco through Turbo), rather than just the 3 discrete levels in Stepped Ramping.

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. The main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off by ~2.7V.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but an unusual one. After 3 minutes of inactivity, the light will automatically lock it itself out so that a single-click won’t activate (i.e., the same as if you did 4 clicks from Off to enter the lock-out state). When locked out, the main emitter just does a quick double-flash if you single-click the switch, to indicate the lock out status. I have to say this auto lock-out surprised me the first time it happened (which is what you get for not reading the manual, doh!). A double-click of the switch deactivates the lock-out, and let’s you use the light normally again.

Alternatively, you can do a twist loosen/tighten of the tailcap, which also resets and deactivates the lock-out. Or, you can turn on the locator feature for the button indicator, which also disables the auto lock-out.

Given the unusual standby current (see below), I recommend you always store the light physically locked-out by a twist of the tailcap. If you do this, then you have a great opportunity to add an additional “green moonlight” mode to the light by setting the switch indicator to constant green. Simply twist the tailcap tight to turn on the “green moonlight” indicator LED, and then then use the switch as you normally would to activate all the regular modes of the main emitter.

Note that setting either indicator disables the auto lock-out feature, and will result in a much fast standby drain (again, scroll down for details). But I find that it’s more versatile to have the switch indicator set to constant on, and physically lock out the light at the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

Yes. The LED under the switch indicates the battery status for the first ~5 secs after turning on:

  • Solid Green: >30% Battery power remaining
  • Solid Red: <30% Battery power remaining
  • Flashing Red: Battery critically low, recharge as soon as possible.

Regardless to how you have set the switch indicator, it does shut off after 5 secs of continuous main LED use.

I have to say, this doesn’t seem like the best range of power levels to indicate (personally, I liked the Sofirn C8L settings better). Also, I did notice some inconsistencies on my sample where a nearly-full cell would sometimes (infrequently) show red or even flashing red. Not sure why that happened.

Video Overview:

Please see the video below, which walks you through the UI and build features of this light:

Reviewer Comments:

The UI is surprisingly versatile, although it is a bit quirky in some of its settings. Case in point, automatically entering the lock-out mode after 3 mins is a new one for me, and was more annoying than practical during my testing. Ultimately not a huge deal for me, as I always store my lights locked out at the tailcap when not in use anyway. And as I explain above, this opens up the opportunity to effectively turn the switch LED into an ad hoc “green moonlight” mode, as this also disables the auto lock-out. It’s also unusual nowadays to be limited to a single disorienting strobe – I would prefer to see a slow signaling strobe/beacon.

Note there is one other interesting feature to the TS22 – the light remembers the state of the electronic switch, even if you break the current at the tailcap. So if the light were in the on-state and you twist the tailcap loose to turn off, the next time you twist it tight again the light comes on automatically. This is unusual, as most lights simply revert to the electronic off-state once current is broken. But it does add versatility here if you want to use the light as a twisty – you don’t need to also click the electronic switch again to activate.

All that said, there are a good range of options here, on par with the better budget makers. In particular, I also like the option of switching between discrete Stepped ramping and continuously-variable Smooth ramping.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Mid:
Mid

High:
Hi

Turbo:
Turbo
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled. There is no circuit noise on any level until Turbo, where you can see some high-frequency noise around 18 kHz. This is completely undetectable and not a concern.

Strobes:

Strobe:

Strobe alternates between 6 Hz and 14 Hz every 1.75 secs or so. Very distracting.

There are no beacon or SOS modes.

Charging:

The switch button flashes red when the light is charging (roughly one second on, one second off). Switches to solid green when the charging is complete.

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The TS22 has a two-stage charging feature, as seen on many modern lights (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when the cell is heavily discharged). Main charging rate is nice and high at 2A, which is good for a 21700 cell. Charging terminated at ~4.19V on my sample.

Note that the light can also serve as power bank to charge other USB-devices, like your cell phone. Simply plug the device into the USB-C power port, as shown below.

power bank

That’s a pretty impressive charge rate of 2.15A (shown charging my Samsung Galaxy S21+).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

In the default state (i.e., no switch LED indicator), I measured the standby current as fluctuating between ~100-110 uA, with periodic jumps every couple of seconds to 1.82 mA. I’m not sure why it keeps jumping to the higher level.

UPDATE July 6, 2023: I had initially speculated that this may have to do with the power bank feature (i.e., I wondered if it keeps checking to see if a device is connected for charging). But I have determined this is not the case. I have gone and measured the standby drain for over 3 mins, and found that the periodic jumps to 1.82mA stop as soon as the auto lockout engages. The light stays within ~100-110 uA from that point on – and yet the power bank feature still works just fine.

For a 5000mAh battery, that would mean a little under 5 and half years before the battery would be fully drained. This is very reasonable for the class, and not a major concern, but I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap to cut the current completely.

As a comparison, I decided to test the other two switch indicator states (i.e., flashing once every 2 secs, or constant-on green). Interestingly, the flashing mode is 1.82 mA during the off-state, with a jump to 3.60 mA every time the green light illuminates. And not surprisingly, the constant-on green LED is a constant 3.60 mA drain. Note those levels would result in a 5000 mAh battery being fully drained in just under 3 months and 2 months, respectively.

As explained above though, this does give you the option to basically take advantage of a “green moonlight” mode to the light, by activating the constant green indicator LED under the switch. Just use the tailcap as a “twisty” for on/off of the moonlight, and click the switch for main mode illumination. And I would say 2 months of constant moonlight output is not bad.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them. As tint in particular can shift across levels, I typically stick with the highest stably regulated level for all my reported measures.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

TS22 on Hi:

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~4765K, and the slight positive tint shift (+0.0091 Duv) to yellowish at this temperature. For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 67.

These values are very consistent with the rated specs for the neutral white XHP70.2 emitter on my sample, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the TS22 is a very bright floody light, with a lot of output into the foreground. As expected, it doesn’t throw as far as the larger head-size lights.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

TS22 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco101010---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Low1009595---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Mid500565560---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
High1,8002,2002,100---NoNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g4,7650.009167
Turbo4,5005,1504,80011,500 cd11,100 cd211 mYes18 KHz0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---
Strobe4,500-----6-12 HzNo0.17 A2.0 A1.82 mA94 g163 g---

This is a rare light where both my lightbox and my NIST-calibrated luxmeter actually report slightly higher output and beam distance measures than what the manufacturer reports. An impressive showing!

To view and download full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

One thing these results make very clear: Wurkkos has invested in an excellent quality constant-current boost driver. This is evidenced by the simply outstanding output/runtime efficiency on the higher levels above – and the lack of a true Moonlight level. However, as I explained in the UI and Circuit Feature sections above, you can set the switch indicator to effectively function as a “green moonlight” mode. So you really can have the best of both worlds here!

I really am blown away by the performance above. The comparison to the Acebeam E70 is particularly telling, as the drop-down levels on the TSS22 Turbo/Hi, and the constant Med level, are basically identical to the E70 (facilitating direct comparisons). What you can see is that the TS22 is up to 20% more efficient than the E70 (!). This is shown by either longer runtime for the same output (i.e., Med), more output for equivalent runtime (i.e., on Hi), or a combination of the two (i.e., Turbo).

These results are all the more impressive when you consider the ~5000K neutral white emitter on my TS22 sample. In the past, it was common to see lower rated output on neutral white emitters compared to cool white ones (due to the extra phosphor required). I can only assume my TS22 sample must have a particularly good output bin, as I doubt the circuit driver alone would account for such an efficiency boost (i.e., Acebeam has very good drivers too in my experience). But I didn’t expect this best-of-class performance from a “budget” model!

I’ll be honest, I was initially doubting these results, thinking my lightbox sensor might a little too sensitive to warmer whites than cooler ones. But I confirmed the TS22 and E70 output levels by a ceiling bounce using my calibrated lux lightmeter, and everything tracks. And that same calibrated lightmeter also reports greater beam distance (compared to the rated specs), making me think I just happened to get a particular good TS22 sample and/or XHP70.2 5000K emitter.

The regulation pattern is also top notch, with perfectly flat outputs until the battery is nearly exhausted. At that point there is a distinctive rounded step-down pattern.

To better show the initial step-down pattern on Turbo/Hi, here is a expanded view of first few minutes of the runtimes:

Max-extended

Note again that all my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan. I have tested the light without it, and the TS22 simply steps down sooner – but to the same levels shown above.

The light is certainly well regulated at every level, with outstanding efficiency.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has outstanding output/runtime efficiency, best-in-class I've seen for a XHP70.2 emitter so far.User interface is fairly sophisticated, and reasonable for the class, but it does have a few unusual quirks (most especially auto lock-out, see the UI and circuit measures above for an explanation).
Circuit shows excellent regulation, with thermally-mediated ramp down on Turbo/High, and step-downs as the battery is almost drained.There are some minor tint shifts across the beam periphery (common on this emitter class).
By configuring the switch indicator LED for constant on, you can have an effective "green moonlight" mode.Light has a relatively high standby drain if the auto lockout is disabled by activating the indicator feature. In any case, I always recommend locking out at the tailcap when not in use.
Compact build with good quality and decent handfeel.
Includes a bidirectional pocket clip
Can function as a power bank, to charge external devices.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

Many of my observations of the Sofirn C8L are true here as well – consistent with their similar overall build quality and packaging (reflecting the common factory they are produced at, despite being different companies). There even seem to have exactly the same electronic switch cover (which is one minor negative for me – I find it a bit “soft” in feel).

But the TS22 is a stand out performer for the compact 1×21700 class – best-in-class output and overall efficiency to date in my testing. And with my preferred neutral white tint to boot! Regulation pattern is excellent as well, this light is an outstanding performer, and at a budget price. Of course, that kind of performance comes at a cost – the TS22 clearly has a strong boost circuit, which often means you have to sacrifice a main emitter moonlight mode. As with everything, there are trade-offs.

However, a saving grace here is the ability to activate the switch indicator green LED for constant-on when the battery is connected. Thus by simply connecting the light at the tailcap, you have an additional rudimentary “green moonlight” mode available to you. It’s good practice to get into locking out this light physically at the tailcap anyway (given the high relative standby current, presumably due to the innovative powerbank feature). And special bonus, using this constant-on indicator LED deactivates the auto-lock-out feature (which I found less than helpful anyway). So, a win-win all around.

The main beam pattern, while floody overall, is a bit more throwy than I expected for the size light and type of emitter – the reflector is relatively deep for the size. As with all XHP70.2 emitters, there is some tint shifting across the periphery of the beam (accentuated by the purplish AR coating here), but it is minor on my sample.

Wurkkos went with a custom user interface for this model. It has a decent number of customizable features, and is very reasonable for the class (i.e., similar or more advanced to many Convoy and Sofirn lights). Sure, it has a few quirks, but nothing you can’t get used to.

When considering all the considerable positives above, and the relatively minor issues, I think this light is worthy of a full 5 stars. Not something I give out often!

This is clearly a top pick for this class, and all for a budget price. Very impressive, and I look forward to trying out additional Wurkkos lights.

Acknowledgement

The TS22 was supplied by Wurkkos for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$45 USD (~$60 CDN). Wurkkos has provide me a 20% discount code to share with my readers, but their codes expire quickly (expected to expire in mid July): WURKKOS20 for use on their website here.

Sofirn C8L

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The C8L is a budget tactical flashlight featuring fairly high output and very good throw, running on a single included 21700 battery. Also features both tactical and general user interface options.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

My first Sofirn review was of their fairly basic 1×21700 IF25A model, which has been around for a couple of years now. While certainly solid and serviceable, it did have a fairly generic build and presentation. In contrast, the newer C8L has been recommended to me as more representative of what Sofirn is producing now.

The C8L is in the style of a “tactical” light, with a larger head (for better throw, and likely higher sustained output due to great thermal mass) and an actual forward clicky tailcap switch. The C8L comes with the XHP50.3 HI emitter, which should provide for excellent throw and decent output.

I thought this would be a good opportunity to expand beyond my initial focus on compact, EDC-style 1×21700 lights. Let’s see how the C8L performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSofirn
ModelC8L
EmitterXHP50.3 HI
Tint6000 K
Max Output (Lumens)3,100
Min Output (Lumens)8
Max Runtime220 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)70,500 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)531 m
Constant Levels5
FlashingStrobe, SOS, Beacon
Battery-
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)151 g
Length156 mm
Head Diameter46.5 mm
Body Diameter-
WaterproofIPX-8 2m

Package Details




The C8L comes in a modern-looking hard cardboard box with printed specs cover and cut-out foam interior. This design offers good protection for the light (e.g., although the outside corner of the box got dinged in the mail, everything inside as unaffected). Inside, I found:

  • Sofirn C8L flashlight
  • Sofirn-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery
  • Spacer to allow the use of 18650 batteries
  • Basic wrist lanyard
  • USB-C Charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package, consistent with other lights of this class. I would have liked to have seen a holster, since that is my preferred way to carry a light like this, but that is not typically included with budget lights.

Build


From left to right: Armytek 18650 (3500mAh), Sofirn 21700 (5000mAh), Acebeam 21700 USB-C (5100mAh), Acebeam E70, Acebeam P17, Armytek Doberman Pro, Convoy M21F, Lumintop D3, Nitecore MH12SE, Nitecore P20iX,  Sofirn C8L.









The C8L is a nice and solid build, with very good handfeel. It’s about what I would expect for a tactical-style light in overall dimensions and weight – substantial enough, but still pocket-able.

There is a physical forward clicky switch in the tailcap used for the turning the light on/off. I must say, it’s been awhile since I tested a light with an actual physical clicky switch – it is nice to see them again. Switch feel is good, and you can easily flash/momentary signal with the forward clicky.

There are two raised tailcap guards that allow the light to tailstand, and serve as the wrist lanyard attachment point. I note that some earlier reviews reported the light couldn’t tailstand stably, but my sample does fine. Tailcap threads are square-cut and anodized, with good feel. I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily on the C8L by a simple twist of the tailcap.

There is a raised side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the head, with red and green LEDs underneath to show charge status. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is decent, but could be a bit tighter/firmer (i.e., the cover has a bit too much play). The switch shines a bright red when charging the battery through the light’s USB-C charging port (green when fully charged). The port is located on the opposite side from the switch, with a thick rubber cover. Like the IF25A, I found the cover to fit rather tightly, making it hard to full depress. But I suppose that should help with waterproofness if you can press it down enough.

There is no actual knurling on the light, but concentric ring reeling around the body tube and a good number of deep cut-outs on the head and tailcap that provide good grip. The head fins have flat areas to help minimize rolling (but it can still roll with enough force). Anodizing looks to be good quality, with no damage on my sample. I would describe the finish as satin. Its a nice package, comfortable and well-balanced in the hand with decent grip – but nothing too sharp to rip through clothing or anything.

Inside, the light comes with a Sofirn-branded standard-sized 5000mAh 21700 battery, with a slightly raised flat-top. A battery sleeve is also included, in case you want to use older 18650 cells. There is a good size spring in the head, ensuring good contact.





The C8L uses the XHP50.3 HI, which is basically a low-profile emitter known for its excellent throw while still maintaining decent high output. Reflector has a light orange peel texture. Together, this should provide for decent throw while minimizing any chromatic aberrations.

The bezel is crenelated black aluminum – not too aggressive, so you can headstand stably. There doesn’t seem to be any kind of anti-reflective coating on the lens (which is surprising nowadays). You can see the reflections of my cell phone camera in the macro shots, for example. Still, at least its not contributing to any chromatic aberrations – the beam is pretty consistently cool white across its full range.

User Interface

Gone is the Anduril user interface – instead, we have a more common dual physical/electronic switch interface.

Personally, I find it great to see the classic forward clicky switch interface again: partially press for momentary on, clicked for locked-on. Easy-peasy. You change output levels by the secondary electronic switch in the head.

But there is some hidden sophistication here, as there are actually two different mode groups you can switch between. A press-and-hold of the electronic switch for 3 secs when the light is on will switch between the two modes. Let me describe them here in detail.

Mode 1 (default) available levels: Eco, Low, Medium, High, Turbo, Strobe, SOS, and Beacon

Mode 1, from OFF:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Momentary On in last memorized mode
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns On in last memorized mode
  • Tail switch, double-press: Turns On in last memorized mode and then jumps to Turbo (click to stay locked-on in Turbo). You have be pretty rapid on the double-press to jump to Turbo.
  • Side switch, press-and-hold: Nothing – but if you click the tail switch while holding down the side switch, the light will activate in Eco mode.
  • Side switch, single-click: Nothing

Mode 1, from ON:

  • Tail switch, partial-press: Nothing
  • Tail switch, single-click: Turns Off
  • Side switch, press-and-hold (3 secs): Switch to Mode 2 (see below)
  • Side switch, single-click: Steps up to the next non-Turbo constant output mode (in sequence, Eco > Lo > Med > High)
  • Side switch, double-click: Turbo
  • Side switch, triple-click: Strobe
    • Side switch, double-click when in Strobe: Cycle through in sequence Strobe > SOS > Beacon (with no mode memory)

Mode 1, Mode memory:

Yes, for non-Turbo constant output modes.

Mode 1 Shortcuts:

  • Eco mode: Press and hold the side switch while turning on at the tail switch.
  • Turbo mode: Double-click the side switch from On, or double-press the tail switch from Off.

Mode 2 available levels: Medium, Turbo, and Strobe.

Mode 2 functions basically as a stripped-down version of Mode 1. The main differences are:

  • Single-click of the side switch only selects between Medium and Turbo now.
  • Double-click of the the tail or side switch goes to Strobe instead of Turbo.

Otherwise, the two modes function the same way.

Low voltage warning:

Yes, the main light will step down as the battery is running low. It will then turn Off at ~2.95V

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but physically – you lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap.

Battery indicator:

When first activating the light, the indicator on the side switch shows the battery voltage  (lasts for ~5 secs):

  • Solid green: ~70-100%
  • Flashing green: ~40-70%
  • Solid red: ~10-40%
  • Flashing red: 0-10%

Reviewer Comments:

The default Mode 1 set is very serviceable, and functions largely as you would expect. I particularly like the shortcut to jump to Eco mode, by holding down the side switch when activating at the tailcap. And shortcuts to Turbo are always appreciated. I also like the very intuitive battery read-out when activating the light.

I have to say though, I really don’t get the point of Mode 2. I could maybe see the value of a scaled down output set that excluded the blinky modes. Or, alternatively, a simple “tactical” interface of just Turbo and Strobe. But I don’t know how many people would want this half-way in-between option.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Eco:
Eco

Low:
Lo

Turbo:
Turbo

There is no sign of PWM or noise on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled.

Strobes:

Strobe:


Strobe alternates between 7 Hz and 16 Hz every ~1.75 secs or so. Very distracting.

SOS:
SOS

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon strobe is a slow 0.5 Hz (i.e., one full power flash every 2 seconds).

Charging:

The switch button shines solid red when the light is charging (switches to solid green when the charging is complete).

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The C8L lacks the multi-stage charging feature seen on many lights (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when cells are heavily discharged). Charging rate is reasonably fast for a 21700 cell. Charging terminated at ~4.19V on my sample.

One oddity when charging – if you click the side switch while charging, the light will activate in Eco. I must say I was a bit surprised when I discovered that by accident. But I suppose it could be useful if you need an emergency light/night light while charging.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

None. That is one of the nice things about a physical clicky switch, no standby current. 🙂 And you can always lock-out the light by a twist of the tailcap, to prevent accidental activation.

 Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5970K, and the slight positive tint shift (+0.0101 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 71.

These values are very consistent with the XHP50.3 emitter, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the beam pattern for C8L is very much on the throwy side, with a nice and bright hotspot (as expected for this emitter).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

C8L Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
Eco82727---NoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
Low100125125---NoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
Med500450450---NoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
High1,3001,2001,200---NoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g5,9700.010171
Turbo3,1003,1503,10063,600 cd63,200 cd503 mNoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
Strobe------7-16 HzNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
SOS------NoNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---
Beacon------0.5 HzNo1.7 A1.8 ANo173 g242 g---

The Eco mode is not as low in my testing as the specs report (i.e., more of a typical low). The higher outputs in my lightbox seem to correlate pretty well with the specs.

My beam distance measures are slightly lower than the specs, but are within a reasonable range to them (i.e., it is quite a strong thrower).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

The C8L seems to be very efficient, with overall output/runtime performance for the XHP50.3 coming in a little below the XHP70.2/SST-70 lights, but above the SST-40 lights, as you would expect. But max output rivals the higher output emitters, which is very impressive.

The regulation is very stable and flat on the Hi and Med levels, but showed an interesting step pattern on the Turbo run. I assumed this was due to thermal management and the effect of my standard cooling fan, so I did an additional Turbo run without the fan (red trace above). Based on earlier reviews, I expected the C8L to step down to the Hi level and stay there. Instead, without the fan, the C8L stepped down to a lower level than Hi, but still stepped back up to an intermediate level in an apparently thermally-regulated pattern.

I haven’t seen quite this pattern before, so I thought it would be good to compare the runs at a shorter timeframe (by default, all runs are under a cooling fan unless stated otherwise):

Max-extended

Interestingly, the light doesn’t actually step-down, but rather gradually ramps down to lower levels. After some variable period of time (presumably as the light cools), it then ramps back up to a higher level. But doesn’t level off at the defined Hi or Turbo levels, rather at a series of intermediate outputs. This is a fairly distinctive thermal management feature.

In any case, the light is certainly well regulated at every level, with very good efficiency for a XHP50.3 HI emitter.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excellent output/runtime efficiency, at all levelsTurbo ramps down to a reduced Hi level eventually, due to heat. However, light ramps back up to intermediate output levels as it cools.
Circuit shows very good regulation overall, with thermally-mediated ramp down/up on Turbo, and step-downs as the battery is almost drained.Lacks a true Moonlight/ultra-low level, but that is not surprising for a thrower.
Uses a dual switch design, with physical tailcap clicky for on/off.Electronic button feel could be improved.
Good build quality and hand feel.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The C8L is a very impressive light. The build quality and hand feel are top notch, on par with with more expensive lights (although I do find the electronic switch cover a bit loose in feel). I would also appreciate a few more package extras (like a belt holster), but this is a very good package for the price.

The beam pattern is what you would expect for the size reflector and emitter – a lot of throw, with decent spill. And there are no obvious chromatic abberations – a consistent (and accurately labelled) 6000K cool white beam.

I like the implementation of the dual switch user interface, with easy shortcuts to min or max output. The UI is very serviceable, although it could use a few tweaks (like a revised second mode set). Output levels are reasonable (note there is no Moonlight mode, but that is not surprising in a larger throw light like this).

Overall output/runtime efficiency seems very good for the emitter type. Regulation pattern is also very flat and stable, but with an interesting thermally-mediated ramp down (and ramp back up) on the Turbo level. It all seems very well thought out.

No surprises, this light works exactly as advertised – and is a great bargain to boot. After testing this model, I am definitely interested in reviewing additional Sofirn lights in the future.

Acknowledgement

The C8L was supplied by Sofirn for review. As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$40 USD (~$55 CDN).

Sofirn IF25A

5 comments

The IF25A is a popular compact every-day-carry light, running on an included single 21700 battery. It also features the sophisticated Anduril user interface.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

In my absence from reviewing, another popular premium “budget” maker that has come on the scene is Sofirn. Making a series of affordable but powerful lights, I was curious to give them a try. So I purchased their popular compact 1×21700 model, the IF25A.

Note that this light has been around for a while now, so its performance may not be quite as high as some of their newer offerings. And my sample was purchased last fall – it took me awhile to get around to it, given all my requested reviews.

The IF25A is quite a tiny little tank of a light, and features 4x Luminus SST20 emitters. The light comes with a choice of either warm (4000K) or a cool (6500K) white LEDs. This review is of the cool white IF25A, in order to compare with other lights configured for maximum output.

Note this will be the second light I’ve tested that uses the open-source Anduril user interface (although I know it uses an early implementation of Anduril 2). Let’s see how the light performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerSofirn
ModelIF25A
Emitter4xSST20
Tint6500K
Max Output (Lumens)4,000
Min Output (Lumens)-
Max Runtime-
Max Beam Intensity (cd)-
Max Beam Distance (m)420 m
Mode Levels5 + Ramp
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)99 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length106.4 mm
Head Diameter35 mm
Body Diameter35 mm
WaterproofIPX-8

Package Details



The IF25A comes in typical cardboard box, with fairly simply background illustrations and basic light details (I know some of the newer Sofirn models come in fancier packaging). Inside, I found:

  • Sofirn IF25A flashlight
  • Sofirn-branded 4000mAh 21700 battery (note some distributors may include a higher-rated cell)
  • A 18650 battery sleeve
  • Wrist lanyard
  • USB-C Charging cable
  • 2 Spare O-rings
  • Manual

It’s a decent package for a budget build. I would have liked a pocket clip and a higher capacity cell though, to match the competition (again, newer versions may come with a higher capacity cell). I do appreciate the USB-C charging cable – I have plenty of these lying around, but it always nice to see one included in a budget package.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.







The IF25A is shorter than most lights in this class, despite the multi-emitter head. Despite that, it actually feels very robust, with a nice thick body. A surprisingly tiny but substantial build at the same time.

There is a side-mounted electronic switch on the side of the light near the head, with a grippy rubber cover that still allows the red and green LEDs underneath to shine through. Feel and traverse of the electronic switch is good. Note that by default the switch shines a constant low output dual-green when the battery is connected but not in use or charging (brighter green in those conditions). I initially found this constant “locator” feature is a bit annoying – but you can turn it off, or switch it to a brighter green (which actually has an important potential use – scroll down to User Interface for a discussion).

The button also shines a bright red when charging the battery through the light’s integrated USB-C charging port. The port is located on the opposite side from the switch, with a thick rubber cover. I found the cover to fit rather tightly, making it hard to full depress. But I suppose that should help with waterproofness if you can press it down enough.

I always recommend you keep a light stored locked out when not in use. Thanks to the anodized tailcap threads, you can do this easily on the IF25A by a simple twist of the tailcap. Threads are square-cut, and well lubricated. The light can tailstand stably, thanks to the side cut-outs for the wrist lanyard.

There is no actual knurling on the light, just a series of cut-outs at various points. Combined with somewhat glossy anodizing, this makes the light fairly slippery in use – I would have preferred some knurling elements. Note the light can also roll fairly easily, although the slightly flared tailcap helps a little bit with this (as does the rubber port cover). The anodizing seems in good shape on my sample, but I suspect it is only the thinner type II, given the price point.

Note that no pocket clip is included, and it would be a challenge to carry the light that way given the wider head and flared tailcap. Personally, I would have preferred a narrower tailcap and a clip option, since I don’t think thin wrist lanyards are of much use. Not a bad physical build by any means, but it does feel and look somewhat budget. I also find it a bit too short, but I have larger than average hands.

My sample came with a Sofirn-branded standard-sized 4000mAh 21700 battery (higher capacity may be sold by some vendors), with a slightly raised flat-top (also called a wide button by some).

A battery sleeve is also included, in case you want to use older 18650 cells (again, a nice touch in a budget light). I suspect a button-top would also work fine in the light, but it would need to be compact given the small size here (and certainly, none of those 21700 cells with built-in charging ports would fit). Note there is no spring in the head, just a flat contact disc (which helps explain the more compact length).



The IF25A uses 4 non-frosted TIR optics instead of individual reflectors, allowing the head be quite a bit shorter than most. I actually recommend the use of TIR optics for multi-emitters, as it tends to minimize beam artifacts. It also shines a generally “smoother” beam, with less differentiation between hotpot and spill. The beam looks reasonably clean on my sample, with just a few artifacts.

Note that I did observe some tint shifting on the lower levels (i.e., the lowest output has a definite greenish hue). This is not uncommon on current-controlled lights (e.g., Fenix), but is particularly noticeable here.

The bezel is flat black aluminum, with no crenelations – so, it can headstand stably, but you may not be able to tell if the light is on. I don’t see any form of AR coating on the lens.

There is a very interesting option with this light, using the switch indicator (green LEDs) when the battery and tailcap are connected. As I will explain below, you can increase the output of the default setting, giving yourself in essence an extra “moonlight” mode. Here is what it looks like, close-up on a white wall in the dark (not really this bright, using my cellphone’s auto-adjust mode):

Locator

The green is very even and surprisingly bright with dark-adapted eyes. Scroll down for more details on how to configure.

User Interface

The IF25A uses the open-source Anduril user interface (UI). Although the site I bought it from describes (and displays) the original interface of the inaugural Anduril release, I can confirm that my sample actually uses Anduril 2 (just like the Lumintop D3 I previously reviewed). I understand from ToyKeeper that it is actually an early implementation of it.

Anduril has two distinct UIs mode sets: Simple and Advanced. The labels are a bit misleading, as both are fairly sophisticated – it is just that the Advanced UI has a lot of extra options not available on the scaled-down Simple UI. Advanced UI also has an option for a discrete Stepped level mode, in addition to the continuously-variable smooth Ramping mode (which is the only mode present on the Simple UI).

To switch from the default Simple UI to Advanced UI, you need to do 10 clicks from Off, with a hold on the 10th click.

It’s easier to show the UIs rather than explain them in words, so here is a common pic:

ui-diagram

You can also download a fully described text manual here.

Like the Lumintop D3, my IF25A only has 5 discrete Stepped modes in the Simple UI (all 7 show up under Advanced UI though). Since most people are likely to leave it in the Simple UI, I’ve gone with 5 discrete levels my tables, and labelled L1-L5 as Moonlight, Lo, Med, Hi and Max/Turbo.

Again, check the image and link above for more info, but here is a simplified description of the UI to get you started.

From OFF:

    • Press-and-hold: Turns On in lowest output, in either Ramping mode or Stepped mode depending on which mode is enabled (and which UI you are in)
    • Single-click: Turns on in last memorized mode used (Ramping or Stepped)
    • Double-click: Turns on to Turbo (aka the Ramping max output)
    • Triple-click: Battery check (voltage read out a single time)
    • Triple-click-and-hold: Special strobe modes, but only when in Advanced UI (remembers last strobe mode used)
    • 4 clicks: Lockout mode. In lockout mode you have different options available:
      • Press-and-hold: Momentary Moonlight
      • Double-click-and-hold: Momentary Low
      • 4 clicks: Turns On in memorized output level
      • 4 clicks and hold: Turns On in the lowest level
      • 5 clicks: Turns On in Turbo
      • 10 clicks and hold: Configure the lock timeout threshold (in Advanced UI only), allowing you to pre-set the timeout time of the lock.
    • 7 clicks: (Advanced UI only) Enters auto light config for the button switch (“AUX/Button LEDs”). There are four modes you can switch between; constant low, blinking low, off, constant hi. Click 7 times again to advance to the next option, in sequence. The light auto-memorizes the last option you select. This allows you to use the switch LEDs as an impromptu “green moonlight” mode, as explained below.

From ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Ramps up (or Steps up, depending on the mode). Ramps/steps down if you do it again.
  • Single-click: Turns Off
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo
  • Double-click-and-hold: Ramps down (or Steps down)
  • Triple-click: Switch between Ramping and Stepped modes (in Advanced UI only)
  • 4 clicks: Lockout mode (see above for options)

Mode memory:

Yes, the circuit memorizes the last constant On output level in either Ramping or Stepped modes.

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, quite a few actually. The strobe/blinking modes are accessible from Off with a triple-click-and-hold, but in Advanced UI only. You can switch between strobe/blinking modes with 2 clicks, in the following sequence (see testing results below to see what these look like):

  • Candle mode
  • Bike flasher
  • Party strobe
  • Tactical strobe
  • Lightning

Low voltage warning:

Sort of. In operation, the light drops in brightness in steps, and runs for an extended time at a very low level. Apparently it shuts off when the cell is ~2.8V (although I haven’t run it that long to confirm). I haven’t noticed any change in the switch LEDs to indicate low battery voltage (which seems like a missed opportunity, given they have red and green LEDs under there).

Lock-out mode:

Yes. In either Simple UI or Advanced UI, lockout is accessed by 4 clicks from On or Off (repeat to unlock). The lockout mode is unusual with Anduril, as it actually enables momentary operation in the Moonlight/Lo modes. There are other lockout modes available, as explained above. As always though, I recommend you physically lock out at the light at the tailcap, if you want to guarantee no accidental activation.

Temperature check and thermal calibration mode:

This is a little complicated (and beyond the needs of most users), so I will just refer you to the diagram from the manual above. With default settings, I find it steps down fairly quickly due to heat (unsurprising, give low thermal mass in the head). I have not tried to reconfigure my sample.

Reviewer Comments:

Anduril is a fairly sophisticated setup – a choice of Simple or Advanced UI, generally well thought out. Of course, you will never please everyone, and many may prefer a slightly simpler interface (e.g., the Convoy S21E), or even very basic one (e.g., Acebeam E70). While I can see flashaholics enjoying some of the extra items, some of them are really novelties (e.g. candle mode and lightning storm are particularly well done, but when would you practically ever use them other than as a party trick?). At the end of the day, I expect Simple UI is fine for most users. That said, the Stepped mode and bike strobe are something that many could use, so it’s nice to have them as options in the Advanced UI.

One of the main advantages of Anduril in a build like this is the ability to independently control the green LED emitters under the switch cover. By keeping the constant-on default setting (or increasing to brighter green), you can basically turn this into an additional “green moonlight” mode on the light. Simply use the light as a twisty: tighten the tailcap for moonlight and access to all the main modes, loosen the tailcap for a physical lock out. 🙂

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled.

That being said, my oscilloscope was able to detect high frequency noise at all levels except max output, as depicted below. Note that these are not actually a concern, as they are not visible to naked the eye – the light remains flicker free in actual use. But I’ve noticed upon my return to reviewing that a lot of “budget” circuits are showing detectable signs of circuit noise. Using the Simple UI’s 5 discrete Stepped levels:

Level 1 (Moonlight):
L1

Level 3 (Med):
L3

Level 4 (Hi):
L4

Level 5 (Max):
L5

As you can see, noise begins with L1, at ~9.2 kHz. For L2 through L4, noise frequency remains constant at ~15.4 kHz, but increases in amplitude as output levels rise (which is fairly common, as more light is being emitted) – except for L5, which is noise free, oddly. Noise at these super high frequencies is impossible to detect visually, and so again not a concern. I am just including for completeness, as I like to present all my findings.

Strobes:

Tactical Strobe:
Tactical

Tactical strobe is a fairly typical 10.1 Hz, although the light spends more time in the On phase than the Off phase on each cycle.

Party Strobe:
Party

Party strobe is a super-fast (and annoying) short pulse at 25 Hz. I don’t know what kind of rave parties the Anduril folks like to hold, but I won’t be attending any. 😉

Lightning Strobe:
LightningD
Lightning
LightningA
LightningB
LightningC

I’ve shown five consecutive 10-sec cycles above, so you can a feel for the frequency and intensity of light flashes. Lightning strobe is a fairly realistic lightning simulation, with variable intensity and time between flashes.

Bike Strobe:
Bike

Bike strobe is a nice, slow 1 Hz signalling strobe – but with with 4 rapid flashes on every signal (shown in more detail below).

D3-BikeB

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon strobe is a slow 0.5 Hz.

Candle:
Candle

Candle strobe is a continuous flicker, of varying intensity (again, accurately simulating a candle).

Charging:

The switch button shines a bright red when the light is charging (switches to bright green when the charging is complete).

Resting voltage <3.0V

Resting voltage >3.0V

The IF25A has a two-stage charging feature (i.e., with a lower charging rate for when cells are heavily discharged). With a heavily depleted cell (<3.0V), the initial charging voltage is a relatively low 0.32A. Once the resting voltage of the cell >3.0V, the charging current jumps to ~1.6V. Over the next few mins, it will continue to slowly rise a bit higher.

Note that the light drops to a very low level when the battery is nearly depleted, but there is no specific low voltage warning that I’ve noticed (e.g., there is no warning flash, and the button LED remains green throughout when the light is on unless you disable that feature). It will apparently shut-off at ~2.8V, but I never ran it that far to find out.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current (with default low green switch LEDs active) as 78 uA, which is negligible and not a concern (i.e., it would take many years to fully drain the cell). Regardless, I always recommend you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation (and cut any standby drain). A single twist of the tailcap will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads. And special bonus, this means you can use the tailcap twisty as a de facto “green moonlight” mode with the switch LEDs.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

As with all my reviews, the reported CCT and Duv measures above are for the first stable output mode without stepdown – which, in this case, is L3 (Med) on the Stepped Simple UI. The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5265K, and the very noticeably positive tint shift (+0.0174 Duv) to green-yellow at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 59 on this level.

These values are very consistent with Luminus SST emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Given the subjectively stronger green tint-shift I noticed on the lower outputs, I decided to actually measure the Duv tint shift of each discrete Stepped level on the Advanced UI, as shown below.

L7: ~5225K, Duv +0.0169
L6: ~5240K, Duv +0.0178
L5: ~5165K, Duv +0.0192
L4: ~5000K, Duv +0.0223
L3: ~5000K, Duv +0.0222
L2: ~5030K, Duv +0.0218
L1: ~5095K, Duv +0.0211

As you can see, the CCT doesn’t change much (i.e., typically stays within ~5000-5250K), but the positive (green) tint shift is greater at the lower levels (L1-L4) compared to the higher levels (L5-L7).

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


I did a second set of beamshots at this location more recently, showing two more relevant lights:

As you can see above, the beam pattern for IF25A is more on the floody side, as expected give the multi-emitters and shallow TIR optics.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

IF25A Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with BatteryCCT (K)DuvCRI
L1 Moonlight-1.41.4---No9.2 KHz0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
L2 Lo-7474---No15.4 kHz0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
L3 Med-450440---No15.4 kHz0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g5,2650.0174-
L4 Hi-1,6501,550---No15.4 kHz0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g5,2800.016959
L5 Max4,0003,4003,05030,500 cd24,800 cd315 mNoNo0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Candle-------No0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Bike Strobe------1.0 HzNo0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Party Strobe------24 HzNo0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Tactical Strobe------10.1 HzNo0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Lightning-------No0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---
Beacon------0.50 HzNo0.32 A1.6 A78 uA98 g163 g---

My measured max output is considerably below the rated spec, as are my beam distance measures. The rated specs definitely seem inflated on this sample. That said, I do like the inclusion of the relatively low min output mode here (i.e., ~1.4 lumens). Not quite as low as I would like for Moonlight, but I’ll take what I can get given how rare actual Moonlight modes seem to be nowadays.

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

For thermal reasons, both the (L5) Max and (L4) Hi runtimes quickly stepped down from their initial values to ~750 lumens or so, and stayed within a ~100 lumen range of that point for most of their extended runs (scroll down to see this with better resolution). You may be able to adjust this somewhat through the Anduril settings, but ultimately I suspect the low thermal mass of the light is the culprit here.

At the (L3) Med level, you get a semi-regulated runtime pattern (i.e., much closer to direct-drive over most of its run).

Something else you’ll notice in the full runtimes above is that the IF25A regulation pattern is quite “noisy”, demonstrating significant fluctuations in output over time (even at the “regulated” lower level). In practice, these fluctuations are not noticeable (i.e., they are actually fairly minor and slow over human perceptual timescales, and thus unnoticeable).

Here is a blow-up of the (L5) Max output runs, for both Ramping and Discrete Stepped, on a shorter time scale, to show you both the step-down and relative stability:

Max-extended

As you can see, there is no real difference between the discrete Stepped mode set and the Ramping (unlike some earlier reviews out there). It seems like Sofirn fixed that earlier issue.

To better show the effect of the “noisy” pattern above, here is a blow-up in even more detail, over a 2-min portion of the run when the changes in output were the most extreme (on the discrete Max output run):

IF25A-Max-extended

Again, these are not a concern as you will not be able to notice these kinds of subtle outputs changes in real life. Nevertheless, I would prefer to see more stable and consistent regulation across all modes, as the pattern above is a sign of a very basic budget circuit.

Which brings me around to the key point – overall efficiency of the IF25A appears lower than others in this class. Keep in mind my sample IF25A came with a 4000mAh battery, which is 20% lower capacity than most of the competition above. Still, the runtimes are  disappointing compared to lights with fully-regulated current-controlled circuits (e.g., the more expensive Nitecore P20iX, but even the budget Convoy M21F).

Part of this could be due to the relative efficiency of the multiple SST20 emitters (especially in a small head where heat management is an issue). But I doubt that is the main issue, as they are not being driven very hard at these lower “regulated” levels. It seems far more likely that the issue is with the driver. Which is a real shame, since Sofirn opted for the sophisticated Anduril UI – it would have been nice to have seen it paired with an efficient current-controlled circuit here.

I realize this IF25A model is getting a little long in the tooth now, but I still recommend Sofirn look into the improving both the regulation and the efficiency of the circuit on this model while it is still available.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Comes with the sophisticated Anduril UI, which has both simple and advanced options.Light steps down quickly on Max/Hi levels to a relatively low ~750 lumens for the remainder of the runtime (for thermal reasons)
Small and sturdy physical build.Driver output efficiency is below average for the class, consistent with entry-level budget lights.
Relatively floody beam, without too many artifacts from the multiple emitters.Regulation pattern is not impressive, both in terms of its relative spiky "noise" pattern, and semi-regulated appearance.
Thanks to the configurable UI, you can use the green LED switch indicator as an effective Moonlight mode.Rated specs for max output and beam distance are over-inflated in my testing.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

The Sofirn IF25A is a serviceable build, with a decent (and sophisticated) user interface with a floody beam profile. It is a particularly compact yet sturdy light, which should appeal to many. That said, I would like to have seen a bit more refinement in the physical build (e.g., actual knurling, less-flared tailcap with pocket clip, etc.).

I realize this is an older model that has been around for a while, so it may not be entirely fair to compare it the newer competition. But the overall impression I have is one where they consistently skimped a bit on many aspects of the light. While each one may not seem like a big deal, the overall effect adds up over time. The most significant one is the circuit – both regulation and efficiency were sub-par, consistent with the most basic budget builds (yet many do better, as shown above). I find increasingly that this is something that differentiates the most entry-level budget lights from the intermediate or premium ones. At the end of the day, I find circuit performance really matters to me.

This is also an example where the rated max output and beam distance specs are clearly inflated. Since my return to reviewing, I’ve generally been pleasantly surprised to see much better concordance of my testing results to the rated specs (compared to the Wild West of my early days of reviewing). So when I see a clear mismatch now, as in the case of this light, it leaves a poor impression.

All scoring is relative, and bound to be a bit idiosyncratic, but I initially gave this light 3 stars overall. I’ve since upgraded that to 3.5 stars, as I find the green switch LEDs (especially set to high) to act as a very serviceable “green moonlight” mode. This is one of the plusses of having the sophisticated Anduril 2 UI, combined with a reasonable initial minimum and max output levels on the main emitter. But again, Max/Hi levels step down quickly to ~750 lumens for thermal reasons – which is a bit lower than the competition. And the main beam tint on all levels below Max/Hi is decidedly green on my sample.

The build quality seems relatively decent for a budget brand, and with a few noticeable refinements, this light could easily move into a higher tier. The quality and features inspire enough hope that I am looking forward to reviewing additional Sofirn lights.

Acknowledgement

The IF25A was purchased through an online vendor from China (aliexpress). As always, all opinions are my own and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$35 USD (~$45 CDN).

Nitecore MH12SE

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The MH12SE is the sixth iteration of the general-purpose MH12 line of flashlights. Features an integrated battery charging feature and single included 21700 battery.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Following on my P20iX review, this is the latest iteration of the MH12 series from Nitecore – now up to the MH12SE, which is apparently its sixth iteration. Featuring a 1×21700 battery and dual physical tail clicky/electronic side switches, the “multi-task hybrid” series has clearly come a long way.

This light features the Luminus SFT-40-W emitter, which is a low-profile “flat window” emitter (i.e., no dome). This translates into better throw, typically at the expense of some output. Let’s see how it does in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerNitecore
ModelMH12SE
EmitterSFT40-W
Tint-
Max Output (Lumens)1,800
Min Output (Lumens)1
Max Runtime1,500 hrs
Max Beam Intensity (cd)41,000 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)405 m
Mode Levels5
FlashingStrobe, Beacon, SOS
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)80 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length141 mm
Head Diameter25.4 mm
Body Diameter25.4 mm
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details






The MH12SE package is very comparable to the “premium” P20iX in terms of extras, except it comes a standard thin cardboard box, colourfully printed with information on the light. Inside you will find the following:

  • Nitecore MH12SE flashlight
  • Nitecore-branded 5000mAh 21700 battery (NL2150)
  • 1×18650/2xCR123A battery holder
  • Tactical belt holster (NTH10)
  • Wrist lanyard
  • Pocket clip
  • USB-C charging cable
  • Spare O-ring
  • Manual

That’s a nice package, including everything you would need for the light. I particularly like seeing the belt holster, as that is always my preferred mode of carry (and very rare to see nowadays). This hard plastic model seems to hold the light securely, and allows for quick grab, pull and release.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.








The MH12SE is a bit longer than most flashlights in this class, likely due to the use of an actual forward clicky switch. It has narrow head, and fits well into the bundled holster.  I find it fits and works comfortably in the hand – I don’t find it too long (although I do have large hands).

It’s great to see a forward tail clicky switch again – I’ve always had a fondness for this format. You use this clicky switch as your main switch for on/off operation and signaling, with a secondary electronic switch to cycles modes. Feel and traverse of the main switch is good, for both momentary (half-press) and clicked-on. The secondary switch is electronic, with a fairly typical feel.

Note that since the primary switch protrudes, tailstanding is not possible, and accidental activation is easy. So as always, I strongly recommend you keep the light stored locked out at the tailcap when not in use. A simple twist of the tailcap will do the job, thanks to the anodized screw threads. There is a side cut-out in the tailcap for the wrist lanyard, if you want to use it. The belt clip fits on securely, and comes off without leaving a mark. I believe the clip is intended primary for bezel down carry, but  the light could be carried the other way in a pinch.

The body is fairly smooth overall, but has a good number of rings and cutouts to help with grip. Knurling is not very aggressive – it could be enhanced, but its not unreasonable for a general purpose light. The light can roll fairly easily, but the flat cut-outs in the head help  a little bit with this (the clip would considerably, if you used it).

Anodizing looks to be very good quality, relatively matte in finish. It is advertised as type III (Hard Anodized), and I see no cause to doubt that. I didn’t notice any flaws on my sample.

As you can see above, there is a standard tailspring in the tailcap, and Nitecore uses a standard button-top 21700 cell in this light. This is an advantage over the P20iX, where the dual-switch tailcap design necessitates a custom cell. You can swap in another battery easily enough, and can charge the cell outside the light if you want. Of course, by default, you are expected to charge the battery right inside the light. There is a rubber plug in the head, across from electronic mode switch, that covers the integrated USB-C charging port (cover fits securely, but without too much resistance). I expect waterproofness to be reasonable, but wouldn’t recommend dunking the light in water.

As always, I find the physical build of the MH-series lights from Nitecore to be very good for general purpose use. I really like the bundled MOLLE-compatible holster here, that is a pretty rare accessory.


The SFT-40 emitter is ideal for producing a very throwy beam, thanks to its low profile and lack of dome – even when coupled with a small reflector like this. The glass lens has a mild AR coating, which I rather prefer. The aluminum bezel has some very minor crenelations, so you can tell if the light is on when headstanding.

There is a LED under the electronic switch in the head, which lights up when the light is in use (or charging).

User Interface

The MH12SE features Nitecore’s standard dual user interface (UI) design, referred to as  as Daily Mode and Tactical Mode.

Switching between them is easy (but not something you are likely to do by accident). Press and hold the electronic switch while the light is off, and then press the tail switch while still holding the electronic switch for another ~ 5 secs or so. At that point, the light will flash rapidly (one flash for Daily Mode, two flashes for Tactical Mode).

Simply defined, Daily Mode has 5 constant output levels (Ultralow, Low, Mid, High and Turbo, in sequence) plus three strobe modes (Strove, SOS, and Beacon). The light has mode memory (except for SOS and Beacon). Tactical Mode cycles in the reverse direction from highest to lowest for the 5 constant output modes and Strobe, and does not use memory – the light always comes back on in Turbo.

Let’s start with Daily Mode, then Tactical Mode.

Daily Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Main switch: Momentary On in last memorized mode used
  • Single-click Main switch: Turns On in last memorized mode used (this includes strobe modes, if set)

Daily Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Main switch: Turns Off
  • Press-and-hold Side switch: Activate strobe modes (Strobe > Beacon > SOS). Release the Side switch to choose the desired strobe. Click the Side switch again to return to the last mode used.
  • Single-click Side switch: Move up to the next constant output level (Ultralow > Low > Mid > High > Turbo).

Tactical Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Main switch: Momentary On in Turbo (no memory)
  • Single-click Main switch: Turbo (no memory)

Tactical Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Main switch: Turns Off
  • Press-and-hold Side switch: Strobe (only, no other blinky modes). Press the side switch again to return to the last mode used.
  • Single-click Side switch: Move down to the next lower constant output level (Turbo > High > Mid > Low > Ultralow).

Switch to/from Daily or Tactical Modes, from Off:

  • Hold down Side switch and single-click Main switch while continuing to hold down Side switch for ~ 5 secs (flashes once for Daily Mode, twice for Tactical Mode, and then turns on at start of constant output ramp for that mode).

Shortcuts:

None.

Mode memory:

Yes, but only in Daily Mode, and for all output levels (i.e., constant output modes and strobe modes).

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes; Strobe, Beacon and SOS.

Low Voltage warning:

Yes. There is a power LED indicator under the side switch in the head that remains lit while the flashlight is in use – and will flash every two seconds once the battery is more than 50% drained.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but only by physically locking out the light at the tailcap.

Temperature regulation control:

Yes. This light features Nitecore’s proprietary “Advanced Temperature Regulation” (ATR) control. It should keep the temperature within a reasonable range.

Reviewer Comments:

This is reasonable dual physical/electronic switch interface, with a good number of options. Personally, I like Daily Mode with its memory feature – although I don’t like having to cycle through Strobe to get to Beacon, and would have liked to be able to jump to Ultralow or Turbo by a shortcut.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled.

It’s actually refreshing to see no high-frequency circuit noise – it isn’t visible to the eye, but it is something that I’m seeing more commonly on modern lights. Glad to see its absence here.

Ultra Lo:
Ultra Lo

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

High:
Hi

Turbo:

Looking good!

Strobe:
Strobe
Strobe
Strobe

Strobe mode oscillates between a 15 Hz and 16 Hz strobe, with two different pulse durations (switching every two seconds or so). Note that both strobes are unusual, as they spends more time in the on-state than the off-state on each cycle. It is certainly very disorienting.

SOS:
SOS

Beacon:
Beacon

Beacon mode flashes approximately once every 2 seconds or so.

Charging:

Like the P20iX, the MH12SE uses a single-current charging feature, with a very fast-charging 2.0A rate. I normally like to see a two-stage charging implementation. But it is hard to over-discharge the cell given that the light steps down and eventually shuts off as the cell drains.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

There is no standby drain on this light, thanks to the physical clicky switch.

That said, I always recommend you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation. A single twist of the tailcap will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5650K, and the significant positive tint shift (+0.0139 Duv) to green-yellow at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 67.

These values are well within the range for SFT-40-W emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the beam pattern for the MH12SE is very throwy, as expected for a SFT-40 emitter. Indeed, compared to the SFT-40-equipped Convoy S21E, the MS12SE is even more focused for throw (and with less intense spill).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

MH12SE Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Ultralow10.80.8---NoNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
Low455454---NoNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
Mid260320310---NoNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
High1,0501,0001,000---NoNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g5,6510.0139-
Turbo1,8002,1001,50048,600 cd35,400 cd376 mNoNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
Strobe1,800-----16-20 HzNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
Beacon1,800-----0.5z HzNo2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---
SOS1,800------No2.0 A2.0 ANo80 g151 g---

I know my lightbox tends to produce higher results than some, but there seems to be a pretty good concordance to the published specs. I like seeing ~0.8 lumen Ultralow mode – close enough to be considered Moonlight.

Beam distance measurement is very good, demonstrating significant throw (but not quite up to the level of the reported specs).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Max

Hi

Med

Not surprisingly, given the small mass in the head, both Turbo and High ramp down to a lower ~800 lumen level fairly quickly. This is consistent with other compact lights that also can’t sustain super-high outputs for long.

The Convoy S21E with a SFT-40 is obviously the closest comparable to this light – and as you can see, the MH12SE has a noticeable output advantage over the S21E for equivalent runtime. This is an excellent result, showing excellent output/runtime efficiency.

The regulation pattern not as stable as I would like, with a “noisy” appearance at the highest two levels. But that is not as much of of an issue as it appears, since it not noticeable at physiological timescales. To demonstrate, here is a blow up of a period the Hi mode runtime during a period of maximal fluctuations:

Hi

While not perfectly flat, it is no more than a ~5% change in output over time, with a gradual transition (i.e., this change isn’t fast or significant enough to be noticeable by eye).

In any case, the MH12SE shows a good regulation pattern overall, with a series of step-downs to lower levels once the battery is almost drained.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excellent output/runtime efficiency, at all levelsTurbo and Higher modes both ramp down to a reduced Hi level fairly quickly, due to heat.
Circuit shows good regulation overall, with thermally-mediated ramp down on Turbo/High, and step-downs as the battery is almost drained.The reduced Hi level shows a variable change in output (i.e., not completely stable).
Uses a dual switch design, with physical tailcap clicky for on/off.Has an very good "Ultra-low" level that could serve as a moonlight mode.
Good build quality and hand feel.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

This MH12SE has performed very well in my testing. You get excellent overall output/runtime efficiency, with a reasonable set of output levels (including a <1 lumen level). The dual user interface – with a fairly standard set of levels and mode memory, and a “tactical” set – is well implemented with the dual physical clicky switch and electronic side switch. Build quality is solid, with decent hand feel. And it offers a surprisingly throwy beam in such a small light, thanks the SFT-40 emitter.

There are a few things to keep in mind however. Max output quickly settles down to ~800 lumens on both Hi and Turbo, due to low thermal mass of the light (so there are not as many discrete levels as first appears). The regulation is not as flat as I would like at this point either, but the fluctuations are not something you can see by eye (and efficiency is still excellent).

Like in my P20iX review, I like the dual user interface setup, especially coupled with the forward physical clicky switch. That is of course more of a personal preference – but it is helpful in a “tactical” light. And one advantage here is that a standard 21700 battery is used, which means you can swap in/out other cells, and charge outside the light if you prefer (although the in-light charging worked well, with a good charging rate).

At the end of the day, this is an excellent performer, with good ergonomics and build quality. I’m giving a half-star advantage over the P20iX – mainly for the standard battery – but either light is a strong contender for the class, it all just depends if you want throw (MH12SE) or flood (P20iX).

Acknowledgement

The MH12SE was provided for review by Nitecore. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$100 USD (~$140 CDN).

Nitecore P20iX

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  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Nitecore is another maker that I am glad to see is still in business upon my return to reviewing. I have reviewed an extensive range of their offerings over the years, and have generally found the quality to be very good, with some innovative approaches. Although there have been some misses (mainly due to pumping out too many new models too quickly, I suspect), there are still a number of Nitecore lights that I use personally.

This is the first of the two relatively compact 1×21700 lights that Nitecore has sent me for review, the P20iX (I see their naming system has remained rather complex). The P series lights have always been generally robust lights with premium quality features. I gather the “i” indicates their custom battery, designed to work with their built-in charger.

Interestingly, the P20iX uses 4x Cree XP-L2 V6 emitters. I remember these emitters from my old reviewing days, and was a bit surprised to see them still in production after all this time. But as I recall, this emitter type was well suited to multi-emitter setups, given their relative efficiency. Let’s see how the light does in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerNitecore
ModelP20iX
Emitter4xXP-L2 V6
Tint-
Max Output (Lumens)4,000
Min Output (Lumens)2
Max Runtime14 days
Max Beam Intensity (cd)12,200 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)221 m
Mode Levels6
FlashingStrobe
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)116 g
Weight (with battery)-
Length141.5 mm
Head Diameter31.8 mm
Body Diameter28.5 mm
WaterproofIP68 2m

Package Details






In keeping with its premium status, the P20iX comes in a colourfully printed hard cardboard box loaded with information on the light, and a nice bundle of extras inside. Everything is securely packaged (indeed, packaging reminds me of a modern cell phone box). Inside you will find the following:

  • Nitecore P20iX flashlight
  • Nitecore-branded 5000mAh 21700i battery (NL2150HPi)
  • 1×18650/2xCR123A battery holder
  • Tactical belt holster (NTH20)
  • Wrist lanyard
  • Pocket clip
  • USB-C charging cable
  • Spare O-ring
  • Manual

That’s a nice package, including everything you would need for the light. I particularly like seeing the belt holster, as that is always my preferred mode of carry (and very rare to see nowadays). This hard plastic model seems to hold the light securely, and allows for quick grab and release.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.











The P20iX is a bit longer than most flashlights in this class, likely due to the use of an actual forward clicky switch. But it does have a surprisingly narrow head (I’m impressed they managed to fit 4 emitters in there like that). That said, it fits very comfortably in the hand – I don’t find it too long (although I do have large hands).

I fondly remember this tailcap switch arrangement – Nitecore and a couple of other makers have used it in the past. You have a standard protruding forward physical clicky switch as your main switch for on/off operation and signaling, with a recessed secondary MODE electronic switch to cycles modes. This is a very “tactical” style arrangement, but I find it just generally very functional. With the wide use of single electronic switches in most lights now, it feels delightfully old-school to go back to a primary physical clicky. Call me old-fashioned. 😊 Feel and traverse of the main switch is good, for both momentary (half-press) and clicked-on. The secondary switch is electronic, and may be hard to activate if you are using heavy gloves, given its recessed nature.

Note that since the primary switch protrudes, tailstanding is not possible, and accidental activation is easy. So as always, I strongly recommend you keep the light stored locked out at the tailcap when not in use. A simple twist of the tailcap will do the job, thanks to the anodized screw threads. Incidentally, I don’t see any cut-outs anywhere for the wrist lanyard, so I guess you would need to loop it around the clip if you want to use it (personally, I don’t find these lanyards very useful and almost never attach it). The belt clip fits on securely, and comes off without leaving a mark. I believe the clip is intended primary for bezel down carry, but it could be flipped to carry the light the other way.

The body is fairly smooth overall, but has a good number of rings and cutouts to help with grip. Knurling is not very aggressive, which I find a bit surprising for this kind of light – it could be enhanced. Still, overall grip is reasonable, and I didn’t have any issues in my testing. The light can roll, but the flat cut-outs in the head help with this (as would the clip, if you used it).

Anodizing looks to be very good quality, relatively matte in finish. It is advertised as type III (Hard Anodized), and I see no cause to doubt that. I didn’t notice any flaws on my sample.

As you can see above, there is no tailspring in the tailcap (although there is one in the head). Nitecore uses its proprietary i-series battery in this light. I remember previous versions of this battery in my earlier testing – I’ve never been a fan of custom cells, although I understand why went this way in their dual-switch tailcaps. In particular, use of both positive and negative terminals on each end is concerning, even with the plastic spacer feature. You need to be vigilant not to place the batteries end-down on an irregular conductive surface, to avoid a possible short. And do not try to charge these in a standard stand-alone charger, as you are definitely likely to create a short. Again, I appreciate the combined anode/cathode end-plates simplifies things for their built-in charging setup, but I still don’t like these kinds of custom cells.

There is a rubber plug in the head, to cover the integrated USB-C charging port (which fits securely, but without too much resistance). I expect waterproofness to be reasonable, but wouldn’t recommend dunking the light in water.

As always, I find the physical build and robustness of the P-series lights from Nitecore to be very good, and this light is no exception. I really like the bundled MOLLE-compatible holster. Indeed, due to the standard sizes, there are number of accessories from Nitecore you can buy that fit on this light (e.g., diffuser covers, tactical rings, remote switch, weapon mounts, etc.).


I was surprised to see a multi-well reflector setup – most compact multi-emitter lights today use shallow TIR optics to focus/smooth out the beam. Reflector wells are more prone to produce spillbeam artifacts, and there a few here – but they aren’t too bad. There is also some tint shifting from the corona to mid-spillbeam, but again not too bad. It seems Nitecore did put some effort in designing their reflector, and is not just relying on off-the-shelf parts. The 4 XP-L2 emitters were each well centered. The glass lens has a mild AR coating with minimal colour distortion (which I like).

The aluminum bezel has somewhat typical mild crenelations, and a relatively unusual feature – integrated round beads of some sort of high-strength silicon nitride ceramic on the protruding ends. This allows it to be used as a strike bezel, for example to break glass. At the same time, these beads are rounded, so it won’t rip a hole in your clothing (much appreciated, thanks).

There is a small blue LED at the base of the head, which lights up when the light is in use (or charging).

User Interface

The P20iX features Nitecore’s dual user interface (UI) design, which I also recall from a few lights in my earlier reviewing days. Nitecore refers to these as Daily Mode and Tactical Mode.

Switching between them is easy (but not something you are likely to do by accident). Press and hold the MODE button with the tailcap firmly connected, and then slightly unscrew it a little bit without releasing the button (may take a little practice). The light will blink once, confirming the UI change. Then simply tighten the tailcap again.

Simply defined, Daily Mode has 6 constant output levels plus a single strobe. You cycle through the constant output modes in sequence from low to high, and the light has mode memory (except for Turbo, and not for strobe either). Tactical Mode has 4 constant output levels plus strobe. It cycles in the reverse direction from Turbo to low and does not use memory – the light always comes back on in Turbo (or strobe, via the MODE switch).

Let’s start with Daily Mode, then Tactical Mode. Note that the levels are described as: Ultralow, Low, Mid, High, Higher, Turbo, and Strobe.

Daily Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Main switch: Momentary On
  • Single-click Main switch: Turns On in last memorized mode used
  • Press-and-hold MODE switch: Momentary Strobe

Daily Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Main switch: Turns Off
  • Press-and-hold MODE switch: Momentary Turbo
  • Single-click MODE switch: Advance up to the next level
  • Double-click: Advance up two levels
  • Triple-click MODE switch: Strobe

Tactical Mode, from OFF:

  • Partial depress Main switch: Momentary On
  • Single-click Main switch: Turbo (no memory)
  • Press-and-hold MODE switch: Momentary Strobe

Tactical Mode, from ON:

  • Single-click Main switch: Turns Off
  • Press-and-hold MODE switch: Strobe (no memory)
  • Single-click MODE switch: Move down to lower level

Short-cuts:

  • To Turbo: In Tactical Mode only, the Main switch goes right to Turbo
  • To Strobe: In either Daily or Tactical Mode, from Off the Mode switch activates Momentary Strobe

Mode memory:

Yes, but only in Daily Mode, for constant output levels (not Strobe).

Strobe/Blinking modes:

Yes, but a single Strobe only.

Low voltage warning:

Yes. There is a power LED indicator at the base of the head that remains lit while the flashlight is in use.

Lock-out mode:

Yes, but only by physically locking out the light at the tailcap.

Temperature regulation control:

Yes. This light features Nitecore’s proprietary “Advanced Temperature Regulation” (ATR) control. It should keep the temperature within a reasonable range.

Reviewer Comments:

This is reasonable dual-mode interface, with a number of options. Personally, I like Daily Mode with its memory feature (although I would prefer to customize the secondary switch for Turbo instead of Strobe). But there is always the Tactical Mode (without the memory). Both are reasonable under the circumstances.

And I do like the physical forward clicky as the main switch – call me old-school.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

There is no sign of PWM on any level, the circuit appears to be fully current-controlled.

It’s actually refreshing to see absolutely no sign of any high-frequency circuit noise (even if it isn’t visible to the eye, it is something that I’m seeing more commonly on modern lights). Glad to see its absence here.

Ultra Lo:
Ultra Lo

Lo:
Lo

Med:
Med

Higher:
Hir

Higher:
Higher

Turbo:
Turbo

Looking good!

Strobe:
Strobe

Tactical strobe is a fast tactical 13.9 Hz, very disorienting.

Charging:

The P20iX uses a single-current charging feature, with a very fast-charging 2.0A rate. I normally like to see a two-stage charging implementation, but I trust Nitrecore knows what it is doing here (it is actually hard to full drain the cell, given the automatic step- and shut-down .

Note that due to the proprietary nature of the battery cell, I do NOT recommend you try charging the cell in a standard stand-alone charger. It would be too easy to accidentally short the battery.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 33.2 uA, which is completely negligible and not a concern (i.e., it would take many years to fully drain the cell). Regardless, I always recommend you lock the light out when not in use to prevent accidental activation (and cut any standby drain). A single twist of the tailcap will lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5860K, and the slightly positive tint shift (+0.0093 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 70.

These values are very consistent with cool white XP-L2 emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



As you can see above, the beam pattern for P20iX is very much on the floody side, without a lot of dedicated throw.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

P20iX Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Ultralow21.71.7---NoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
Low508080---NoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
Mid300390380---NoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
High8501,1501,100---NoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
Higher1,7002,3002,250---NoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
Turbo4,0005,1001,05016,440 cd15,510/3,270 cd249/114 mNoNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g
Strobe4,000-----13.9 HzNo2.0 A2.0 A33.2 uA115 g191 g

I think it would be too much of a stretch to consider ~1.7 lumens as Moonlight, but it is quite low, and reasonable enough in the dark. I am glad to see the P20iX perform close to spec, and to include this “Ultralow” level.

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

P20iX-Max

P20iX-Hi

P20iX-Med

Those XP-L2 V6 emitters are clearly very efficient – output/runtime efficiency is right on par with the best-in-class I’ve tested to date. That’s an impressive finding for a multi-emitter setup.

The P20iX also has excellent regulation, with flat and table runtimes. It is only on the Higher level that there is a gradual and slight uptick in output before the light steps down.

Let’s take a closer look at the first few minutes of the High, Higher, and Turbo runs, since this reveals what really differentiates these levels:

P20iX-Max

Basically, Turbo starts at ~5100 lumens and rapidly steps down to the ~1000 lumen Hi level by ~30 secs, whereas Higher starts at ~2300 lumens and gets to ~1100 lumens slowly (i.e., starts to ramp down after 1 min, reaching that lower level by ~3.5 mins). Basically, Turbo and Hi are indistinguishable outside of those first 30 secs, and Higher is just marginally brighter after its step-down.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Light has excellent output/runtime efficiency, at all levelsTurbo and Higher modes both step down to the Hi level fairly quickly, due to heat.
Circuit shows good regulation, with thermally-mediated step-downs on Turbo/HigherLight uses a proprietary Nitecore battery
Uses a dual switch design, with the option of two Mode setsLacks a true Moonlight mode, but has a very good "Ultra-low" level
Very good build quality and hand feel.

A neutral comment would be that the four emitters in such a small head produce a relatively floody beam. The reflectors are surprisingly good at minimizing artifacts (but there are some).

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

This light has helped changed my mind about multi-emitter setups with reflectors instead of optics. In my previous reviewing life, these reflectors typically produced way too many spillbeam artifacts for my taste. So I’m surprised to see how well they function in such a small head here.

But that brings up another point – I was also surprised to see such a tiny head for a multi-emitter light, since I know that means significant step-downs due to thermal management are inevitable. And that is exactly what you see here. Effectively, Turbo, Higher and High are all basically the same ~1000 lumen level over the course of their runs, after the initial thermal step-downs.

Mind you that is not a problem per se – it is just basic thermodynamics, and Nitecore has clearly done a good job with their thermal regulation control. But it does mean that mode spacing is not quite as diverse as it appears from the specs (or my ANSI FL-1 testing results). It’s possible that people may be disappointed if they buy the light based on specs alone. For this reason, I’m inclined to knock off half a star.

That said, it is certainly an excellent performer, as you can see from the runtime graphs above. Nitecore has done a very good job with the circuit, and I have no complaints with performance.

User interface is always a very personal affair, and I think Nitecore has struck a good balance here with the dual Mode sets. I don’t find either set to be “perfect” for my preferences, but both are very reasonable. There is no way to please everyone – it all comes down to what you like. And as I’ve said multiple times above, I realize just how much I like a physical forward clicky as the main switch.

The in-light charging feature worked well, and charges the battery rapidly. I’m not crazy about Nitecore’s proprietary 21700 cell however. While I can understand why they went this way given the tailcap secondary switch, it seems a bit out-of-step with the norm today (i.e., the ability to use standard batteries for lights with the electronics in the head). I’d knock another half-star off on this front – although again, this is the price you pay for the dual tailcap.

All that said, this is an excellent performer, and one with great build quality. A strong contender in the class, and one well worth looking at.

Acknowledgement

The P20iX was provided for review by Nitecore. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$120 USD (~$170 CDN).

Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max

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The Wizard C2 Pro Max is a solidly-built headlamp running on a single included 21700 battery. Features a sophisticated user interface and innovative magnetic charging dock.

  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

Following on my recent review of the 1×18650 Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, I also have on hand for the testing the larger 1×21700 Max edition of this light. Very similar in design and user interface (some small differences are noted below), this Max model features a truly warm-tinted XHP70.2 emitter. This should produce more output than the smaller Nichia version, but at the cost of reduced colour rendition.

As before, this is an angle head light (i.e., the emitter is on the side of the head). This design is very helpful when carrying the light clipped on you, or as a headlamp. Let’s see how it compares to its Nichia sibling, and the competition.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerArmytek
ModelWizard C2 Pro Max
EmitterXHP70.2
TintWarm
Max Output (Lumens)3,720
Min Output (Lumens)0.32
Max Runtime2 mos
Max Beam Intensity (cd)3,300 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)113 m
Mode Levels7
FlashingStrobe1, Strobe2, Strobe3
Battery1x21700
Weight (w/o battery)79 g
Weight (with battery)149 g
Length121.5 mm
Head Diameter34.4 mm
Body Diameter23.6 mm
WaterproofIP68 10m

Armytek doesn’t provide an exact colour temperature for “warm light”, but it is quite  warm in tint to my eye, much warmer than the more neutral white tint of the Nichia model (see Beamshots and Emitter Measures below). I would definitely characterize this light as warm white.

Package Details

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The Wizard C2 Pro Max ships in a cardboard display box with an extensive number of labels and descriptions. Inside, you will find the following:

  • Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max flashlight
  • Stainless steel pocket clip
  • Magnetic USB charging dock
  • 21700 battery (5000mAh)
  • 18650 battery adapter
  • Headband and rubber headlamp mount
  • Bicycle mount
  • 2 spare O-rings
  • Adhesive tape strip (3M)
  • Manual

It’s a very good package of accessories, identical to its smaller sibling except the addition of the 18650 battery adapter here (a nice feature, if you wanted to swap in a smaller and lighter cell).

As before, the multi-lingual manual is really more of a quick-start guide, and there is a slightly more detailed full manual that you can download from the Armytek website (direct PDF link here). I recommend you download the longer manual in order to take full advantage of all the features and better understand the user interface.

Build


From left to right: LiitoKala 21700 (5000mAh), Fenix ARB-L21-5000U 21700 (5000mAh), Sofirm IF25A, Fenix E35 v3, Convoy S21E, Imalent MS03, Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max, Acebeam E70, Nitecore P20iX, Nitecore MH12SE, Lumintop D3, Convoy M21F.

Max

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This physical build is basically identical to the 1×18650 Nichia version, just on a larger scale. As I said before, I find it very reminiscent of the early bomb-proof Armyteks – it feels very solid in the hand. That said, is also reasonably compact for the 1×21700 class.

The anodizing looks exactly like the old matte finish of early Armyteks, very grippy (almost feels rubberized in a way).  It appears to be thick and durable – although I find it also marks up easily (i.e., not scratched down to the bare aluminum, but shows handling marks on the surface). I guess its fair to say Armytek sees their lights as work-horses, not show-horses.

The light lacks traditional knurling, but the ridge details cut-outs and grippy finish help produce good hand grip in my view. The pocket clip attaches very firmly (likely to mark upon removal) and helps further with grip (and clip-on carry of course).

The main distinctive feature is the angle-head light source. As mentioned above, this is very helpful as a headlamp, bicycle light or when clipping onto you. It’s also reasonable to carry this way by hand, especially given the large button on the size of the head (i.e., can easily use your thumb to activate the switch). Switch feel is good, with a definite click upon press.

There is a green/red LED under the switch cover that can signal the status of the light. By default, it flashes red once when the switch is clicked (or glows red when doing a press-and-hold). You can configure it to flag a green locator beacon once every four secs if you wish (see UI section below). It also serves as a low battery and heat warning, as also described in the UI section.

The light lacks a USB-C charging port on the body, but there is a USB-based magnetic charging dock that charges the light through the tailcap (scroll down to my Circuit section for more details on how it works). The light uses a standard flat-top 21700 cell (Armytek-branded 5000mAh in this case), so can easily be swapped out and charged in a stand-alone charger. And thanks to the included 18650 battery adapter, you you can easily run 18650 cells in this light.

Note that this charging format means that there are exposed contact points on the tailcap. However, the center contact is sufficiently recessed (and small enough) to avoid any likely problems.

The magnet is located in the tailcap (and is not user-removable). It is also very strong, and so may attract metal objects. Of course that means you can also attach it to metal surfaces to stand it as a worklight.

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The light uses a warm white tinted XHP70.2 emitter, under a textured TIR optic. The specs claim a 110 degree hotspot and a 150 degree spill, but there is no sharp demarcation between them – this produces a very even and wide flood light. Scroll down to the Emitter measures section for a tint/CRI discussion.

The head has a flat stainless steel bezel ring.

User Interface

The user interface (UI) of this light is very similar the 1×18650 Nichia version, with a few tweaks. The main difference is that you are missing the ~1.0 lumen Firefly2 mode of that model (the brighter Firefly3 of that model has been renamed as Firefly2 here).

On the whole, I find the Armytek UI a bit complex, and somewhat reminiscent of the second generation of the inaugural model of Armytek, the Predator. Just like that earlier light, you will need to download the full manual from Armytek to learn how to use it fully (i.e., the bundled manual is more just to get you started). The detailed manual is available from the website’s product page (downloadable as PDF here). You can also follow the link from the QR code on the box, which takes you to main product page. I don’t understand why they don’t provide this better manual with the light itself, as you are likely going to find it frustrating trying to figure it out all the features from the incomplete quick-start guide alone.

That said, even the full manual doesn’t do a great job of fully explaining the implementation of the UI (although if you follow the instructions, you will likely figure it out for yourself). But to help you out, let me try to break it all down for you.

Note that if you are more of a visual learner, you can skip to the end of this section for a video overview describing how the UI works.

To start, you can switch between two types of operation mode sets (with different mode groups available) – the General UI and the Advanced UI. To do this, unscrew the tailcap by a quarter turn with the flashlight off. Then press-and-hold the button while you tighten the tailcap. The light is set by default at the factory to General UI.

General UI Operation

The General UI gives you access to both Firefly modes (Firefly1 and Firefly2), all three Main modes (Main1, Main2, Main3), but only one Turbo mode (Turbo2 by default – although you can change this to Turbo1 by going through the Advanced UI, as I’ll explain later). Note the strobe modes are not available in the General UI.

General UI, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns On in Firefly1 and cycles through the two Firefly modes followed by the three Main modes, and then continues to loop through the Main modes (you select by releasing the switch). So, sequence is: Firefly1 > Firefly2 > Main1 > Main2 > Main3 > Main1 > Main2 > Main3 > Main 1 > etc.
  • Single-click: Turns On in the last used mode (the specific six constant modes described in the opening paragraph are all available to be memorized, including Turbo).
  • Double-click: Nothing (i.e., just turns On and then Off again – but scroll down to see what happens when already On).
  • Multiple clicks (3 or more): Nothing, the light simply turns Off and back On with successive clicks.

General UI, from ON:

  • Press-and-hold: If you are currently in a Firefly mode, it will cycle through the Firefly modes and then through all the Main modes, with in a repeating loop of Main modes (i.e., the same as press-and-hold from Off). If you are in the Main mode or Turbo mode, press-and-hold will cause it to cycle through the Main modes only.
  • Single-click: Turns the light Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to Turbo (assuming you are not already in Turbo – in which case, it jumps back to last mode used before entering Turbo).
  • Multiple clicks (3 or more): Nothing, the light will just turn Off and back On.

This is a bit of an unusual arrangement, but it’s not that hard to get used to. I recommend you think of this General UI as fundamentally a press-and-hold interface, with single- and double-click offering access to the last memorized level and toggling to/from the Turbo level, respectively. The main tweak that I would have liked to see is a more consistent implementation of press-and-hold when On (i.e., I would like to have it always cycle through Firefly, not just when starting in Firefly) – but that’s just personal preference.

Note that General UI lacks the Strobe modes and Turbo 1 (although you can switch the default Turbo level by programming in Advanced UI if you want). General UI should work well for most users right out of the box.

Advanced UI Operation

This is not well explained in the manual, although the information is technically all there.  Simply put, Advanced UI gives you access to 4 defined Mode Group sets that you can choose between, as well as the ability to cycle through a larger subset (but not all) of the constant output modes.

Available to you in the defined Mode Group sets are both Firefly levels in the Firefly Mode Group (Firefly1, Firefly2), all three Main levels in Main Mode Group (Main1, Main2, Main3), both Turbo levels in Turbo Mode Group (Turbo1, Turbo2), and all three strobes in the Strobe Mode Group (Strobe1, Strobe2, Strobe3). The various Mode Groups are typically accessed by multiple clicks from either On or Off as described below (except for Firefly modes which are accessed by a press-and-hold, with additional modes).

In addition, when you activate the light in Advanced UI by a press-and-hold it will run through the first six constant output modes from Firefly1 up to Turbo1. Again, this is the only way to access Firefly modes (basically, think of this ramp as Firefly plus Main and some Turbo).

Advanced UI, from OFF:

  • Press-and-hold: Turns the light On, and runs through the first 6 constant output modes in sequence from Firefly1 to Turbo1, on a repeating loop (i.e., no more excluding Firefly modes after the first round, as General UI does). All modes except Turbo2 and the three Strobe modes are on this repeating sequence. When you release the switch on any level, you are now in that Mode Group set if you press-and-hold again (i.e., the light will only cycle through the levels of that Mode Group set now). So, for example, if you release the switch on Turbo1, a subsequent press-and-hold of the switch will cycle between the two Turbo modes in this Mode Group.
  • Single-click: Turns On in last used mode (note that mode memory now applies to Strobe as well as all constant output modes).
  • Double-click: Turns On in the Main Mode Group
  • Triple-click: Turns On in the Turbo Mode Group
  • 4 clicks: Turns On in the Strobe Mode Group
  • Multiple clicks (5+): Nothing (i.e., light will just activate in the Strobe Mode Group)

Advanced UI, from ON:

  • Press-and-hold: Light will cycle through the levels in the current Mode Group only.
  • Single-click: Turns the light Off.
  • Double-click: Jumps to the Main Mode Group (or jumps down to Firefly1 if already in Main Mode Group).
  • Triple-click: Jumps to the Turbo Mode Group (or does nothing if light is already in Turbo Mode Group).
  • 4 clicks: Jumps to the Strobe Mode Group (or does nothing if light is already in Strobe Mode Group). Note this means that you have to double-click or triple-click to exit Strobe modes when On (or turn Off and then press-and-hold when turning back On).
  • Multiple clicks (5+): Nothing, it just jumps Strobe mode and stays there (i.e., acts as 4 clicks).

Note that the light will memorize the last Turbo mode you used (i.e., Turbo1 or Turbo2).  If you revert back to General UI, it will continue to use that memorized Turbo mode. So this is how you can program the lower Turbo1 in the General UI if you wish.

I personally prefer Advanced UI over General UI, for the more consistent implementation of press-and-hold from Off (i.e., repeatedly cycles a wider set of modes, including Firefly levels). However, you have to remember to triple-click for Turbo now. Also, when On, you are limited to only cycling through your current Mode Group with a subsequent press-and-hold. But it’s easy enough to remember to turn Off and start a press-and-hold again to access the other modes.

What I don’t like in Advanced UI is the inconsistent effect of multiple clicks when On. The first time I activated Strobe mode for example, it took me a while to figure out how to get out (i.e., only double- or triple-click will exit, unless you turn off and reset by a press-and-hold as I prefer). This is not entirely intuitive, and at a minimum I would have liked for the same number of clicks to enter a Mode Group also be used to consistently exit it. But on the plus side, Strobes are reasonably well hidden if you don’t want to bother with them at all in Advanced UI. And you can always stick with General UI if you really don’t like it.

In terms of the strobes, I do like the slow signaling strobes here, with both high and low power (especially as a bike light).

Standby Indicator:

As mentioned in the build section, you can toggle on a standby indicator that briefly flashes the green LED under the switch cover once every four seconds. You do this in a similar way to how you switch between General UI and Advanced UI, but with an extra step: loosen the tailcap a quarter turn, hold down the button, tighten the tailcap AND then immediately loosen the tailcap a quarter turn. I haven’t measured the standby drain in this mode, but I suspect its pretty minimal.

Shortcuts:

Rather then go through it all again, please see above for how all the clicks and press-and-holds work in the two UI.  In simple terms, press-and-hold from Off is necessary to first access Firefly modes, and multiple clicks are necessary to access Turbo from either On or Off.

Mode Memory:

Yes. The light remembers the last mode used and returns to it (constant output modes only in General UI, all modes including Strobes in Advanced UI). Memory mode persists, even with a battery change.

Lock-out Mode:

Yes. Simply unscrew the tailcap a quarter turn. Even though the tailcap has non-anodized threads, it does turn Off while unscrewing from fully tight.

Low battery warning:

Yes. The switch indicator will signal the battery status once the cell is <25% (at which  point, it will flash orange every 2 seconds). Once the battery is <10%, it will flash red every second.

High temperature warning:

The switch indicator will also signal a high temperature warning, with 3 orange flashes every 2 secs. If heat is critical, it will flash red 3 times every second, and the brightness level will automatically step down.

According to the manual, the brightness decreases once the light approaches 58 degrees Celsius.

Reviewer Comments:

This is a sophisticated interface, with a lot of extra bells-and-whistles (in terms of mode groupings, standby and battery/heat indicators, etc.). It is a bit confusing to configure initially, and there are some inconsistencies in how features are implemented across UI Mode Group sets (i.e., which modes are included in a ramp, exact number of clicks to access or exit a given Mode set, etc.). And since this is not completely clear in the manual (even the extended manual online), you are likely need to refer the UI instructions here to reprogram.

But that’s really more of a quibble – any sophisticated UI is going to have complexities and inconsistencies that won’t please everyone. Once you decide which interface you want – the default General UI or the Advanced UI, you should be able to get used to things fairly quickly.  And again, I like to think of this light as fundamentally a press-and-hold style light for selecting modes, with the clicks really about shortcuts or group selections.

To help you see how all that works in practice, I’ve posted a video to my YouTube channel (@cpfselfbuilt) demonstrating the UI in practice:

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Main1:
Max

There is no sign of PWM or circuit noise at any level. The light appears to be fully constant-current controlled. 🙂

Strobe:

Strobe3:

Strobe2:

Strobe1:

Strobe3 frequency is a fast 9.7 Hz, at full power (Turbo2). Fairly disorienting.

Strobes1 and 2 are slow signaling strobes, both at 1 Hz. Strobe 2 is full power (Turbo2), whereas Strobe 1 is reduced to the Main2 level.

This is basically unchanged from the Nichia version.

Charging:
Max
Max
Max

The charging dock is identical to the smaller Nichia version of this light – they can be used interchangeably for the two models.

As previously noted, charging this light is a little unusual. The magnetic charging base will snap on the tailcap snugly, and initiate the charge. The power LED glows red when charging, and the battery LED glows green when done (or when the dock is disconnected). The green LED will flash for a few second when first connecting, as it evaluates the charge status of the battery. Note that it will not initiate a charge if the cell is >4.0V resting (i.e., the charging status stays green).

There is also an orange blinking error feature apparently, but I haven’t seen it – it occurs if the charging source is incapable of providing enough power. Solid orange means it is charging at a reduced current.

Note: You need to unscrew the tailcap a quarter-turn, to lock out the light first, in order to charge it. If you try to charge with the tailcap fully connected, you will get a flashing red error light on the charging base. This is a very unusual design.

Resting voltage <3.0V
Max

Resting voltage >3.0V
Max

Just like the Nichia version, the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max shows an initial low initial charging current of ~0.13A when the cell is heavily depleted (<3.0V resting), which jumps up to ~1.0A once the cell is >3.0V resting. This two-current charging is a good design, and indicates a safe integrated charging circuit. While this max charging rate is very reasonable for a 18650 battery, I do find it a little low for the 21700 bundled here. But this is another sign they are using very much the same charging control circuit.

In my testing, once charging begins it will fully charge the cell up ~4.19V resting at termination. However, as mentioned earlier (and like the Nichia version) it will not initiate a charge above ~4.0V resting. You will need to use a stand-alone charger if you wish to top-up you cells within the ~4.0-4.2V range.

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 8.8 uA.

Like its smaller sibling, this is completely negligible, and not a concern (i.e., it would take many years to drain the cell). Nevertheless, I always recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap when not in use, to prevent accidental activation and cut the standby drain. A quarter turn twist of the tail will lock out this light, despite the lack of anodized screw threads. Note the charger feature still works when the light is locked out (indeed, it only works when the light is locked out, which is pretty unique).

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~3585K, and the moderately positive tint shift (+0.0083 Duv) to yellow at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 77.

These values seem reasonable for a warm-tinted XHP70.2 emitter (which tend toward positive Duvs at all CCTs), and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.


It is an interesting beam pattern for these Armytek lights; a very even flood beam. The Max version here has a slightly wider spill than the Nicha version, with even less demarcation from spot to spill. I think it could make a good bicycle light, for general illumination in the immediate foreground.

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

Wizard C2 Pro Max Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Firefly10.320.30.3---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Firefly24.388---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main1424141---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main2140150150---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Main3420430430---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Turbo11210-8401,4001,350---NoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Turbo23,720-8403,9503,8501,710 cd1,670 cd82 mNoNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe1140-----1.0 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe23,720-----1.0 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g
Strobe33,720-----9.7 HzNo0.13 A1.0 A8.8 uA82 g150 g

It’s great to see the multiple Moonlight/Firefly modes here, especially the ultra-low Firefly1 at <0.1 lumens (not sure why we have lost the ~1.0 Firefly2 mode from the Nichia model though). Spacing of modes is very good, with a great range of levels across the whole dynamic range.

At 82g/150g (without/with battery), the Wizard C2 Pro Max is noticeably heavier than the smaller Nichia model (which weighed in at 113g with battery). This may an issue for some in using the Max version as a headlamp (although it will translate into longer runtime as a bike light).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

To start, let’s see how the 1×21700 Max version compares to the 1×18650 Nichia version:

Hi

Med

Basically, the circuit regulation and performance is identical – although of course the larger Max version produces more output for equivalent runtime (or longer runtime for equivalent output), consistent with the XHP70.2 emitter and larger capacity cell.

And now how the Max version compares to the 21700 competition:

Max

Hi

Med

And here’s a blow-up of the first few mins, so you can see the initial Turbo step-down better:

Max

The Wizard C2 Pro Max shows excellent efficiency and regulation at all levels tested, consistent with its smaller sibling, and exactly in the same range as other XHP70.2 lights with very good efficiency circuits. It shows a very controlled step-down pattern as the battery nears exhaustion. I find this result particularly impressive, given warmer tints tend to show lower efficiency (due to the extra phosphor added compared to cool white emitters).

Note that the Turbo2 level steps down a little sooner than the Nichia version did at around 1min to a ~800 lumen level, compared to the ~1350 lumen Turbo1 level. Unless you really need the super high output of Turbo2 for that short length of time, you may find Turbo1 more generally useful (I know I do).

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Excellent current-controlled efficiency, with stable regulation in all modes.User interface is a little unusual, with two distinct UIs with differing mode group sets (with some shortcut inconsistencies between).
Textured optic provides an extremely floody beam, with no real hotspot.Charging dock requires tailcap to be loosened, and won't initiate a charge when cell is >4.0V resting.
Great overall range of output levels, with true Moonlight modes.Need to keep tailcap and screw threads very clean, or you can get some flickering on the highest level.
Compact and easy to activate with a single large button, and a number of warning/notification modes available.
Included high-capacity battery with custom USB charging dock (magnetic).

A neutral comment is that the Wizard C2 Pro Max is an angle-head light – which is beneficial when using as a headlamp or clip-on light, but is different from most other lights.

More significantly, the first sample of the Max that Armytek sent me was defective on Turbo2. It had greatly reduced output from the start, and quickly developed a persistent flicker on this level that wouldn’t go away. The replacement sample worked perfectly from the beginning.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

This is another strong showing from Armytek. Like its smaller sibling the 1×18650 Wizard C2 Pro Nichia, this is a powerful and versatile flood light, with a lot going for it.

Angled flood lights have a lot of very practical uses, especially for up-close work or in the near field. Of course, this is also a very high-output light, so it can light up a much wider range than typical. It’s a bit heavy for a headlamp, but the headband holds it in place well. The relatively warm tint is convenient for outdoor use – although I prefer both the neutral white tint and the much higher CRI of the Nichia version. Still, I can see this making an outstanding bike light.

Like its junior version, the performance of the circuit was outstanding – excellent regulation and output/runtime efficiency at all level tested. Given the relatively small thermal mass however, it needs to step down quickly on max (Turbo2). So here again, I recommend Turbo1 as a more practical high output level.

The build has the same solid and rugged feel as the Nichia version, with Armytek’s classic grippy matte finish. Switch action is good, and the status LEDs under the switch serve multiple uses. The charging dock is a little unusual in that it needs the tailcap loosened (and won’t initiate a charge >4.0V resting). Note that this is exactly the same dock as the 1×18650 Nichia version –  and hence, the same charging characteristics.

Mode level spacing is good, although for some reason you don’t have the ~1 lumen Firefly2 level here (you still have the <1 lumen Firefly1). The user interface is a bit complex with its General and Advanced UIs and mode sets, but you can quickly get used to it.

I had initially given the Nichia version 4.5 stars, knocking off half a star for the UI complexity and charging dock quirks. But I have since reconsidered that light as a true 5 star, since the UI isn’t that hard to get used to. In comparison, I think this Max version is more appropriate 4.5 light, given the lower CRI, missing Firefly2, and low (relative) charging rate. But it’s still a great light – and may be better suited to you if you need the great output and/or runtime.

Another strong contender in the full flood family of lights!

Acknowledgement

The Wizard C2 Pro Nichia was provided for review by Armytek. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$95 USD (~$125 CDN).

Armytek is offering a 15% discount code to readers of my website, please use code flashlightreviews15 when checking out of the Armytek.com website.

Acebeam X75

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  1. Introduction
  2. Manufacturer Specifications
  3. Package Details
  4. Build
  5. User Interface
  6. Circuit Measures
  7. Emitter Measures
  8. Beamshots
  9. Testing Results
  10. Runtimes
  11. Pros and Cons
  12. Overall Rating
  13. Preliminary Conclusions
  14. Acknowledgement

Introduction

I first came to know Acebeam (or rather Supbeam, under their original name) as a high-quality maker of high output, thrower lights. Indeed, their K40/K60 series lights were my go-to lights for high-output back in the day (especially when modded by Vinh Nguyen for maximum throw). I’ve always found their lights to be solid offerings, very well made, with efficient current-controlled circuits and well-thought out user interfaces.

So when they suggested sending me their X75 super-high-output light, I said of course. I was glad they sent along the XHP70.3 HI version, since this should have more throw (and less chromatic variation) than the earlier XHP70.2 versions.

I don’t know about you, but I’m excited to see how it performs in my testing.

Manufacturer Specifications

Note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results.

FeatureSpecs
MakerAcebeam
ModelX75
Emitter12xXHP70.3 HI
Tint6500K
Max Output (Lumens)67,000
Min Output (Lumens)900
Max Runtime8 hrs 20 mins
Max Beam Intensity (cd)426,409 cd
Max Beam Distance (m)1,306 m
Mode Levels6
FlashingStrobe
Battery14.4V/4250mAh
Weight (w/o battery)-
Weight (with battery)1240 g
Length176 mm
Head Diameter92 mm
Body Diameter60 mm
WaterproofIP68

Package Details

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The E70 is shipped in a nice and study cardboard display box. However, I personally miss the old metal-clasp carrying cases, with cut-out foam interiors.

Inside, you will find the following:

  • Acebeam X75 flashlight, with integrated handle/fan and silicone head cover (for protection and heat indication)
  • SB-C PD 60W AC charger
  • Spare fan with torx screws and Allen key wrench
  • Two spare o-rings
  • Warranty card
  • Safety card
  • Manual

It’s a reasonable package of accessories, and I like the spare fan in case you burn out the built-in one already included in the handle. I also really like the silicone head cover, due to the amount of heat this light puts out (I’ll come back to this point in later in the review).

My first impression upon unboxing is how much smaller than expected the light looks, given all those emitters. I recall the massive Olight X6 (with its 6x XML emitters, and ~5K lumens) in comparison. But once I lift it out of the box, the heft is about what I expected – you are going to need a lot of battery power to run this beast.

Build

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This is a substantial light, and one that would likely get heavy to carry around for extended walks.

The first thing to understand about this flashlight is that the handle is an integral part of how it works. The two control switches and the Lock-out switch are integrated into the handle, as is the cooling fan that sits under the heatsink in the head. You can remove the handle from the head if you need to change the fan or clean out the heatsink, but you can’t run the light without it attached. This is actually quite innovative, as you don’t have to worry about your significant investment going down the drain when/if the inexpensive fan breaks (and thus the benefit of providing a spare in the package, well done).

The light is a bit front-heavy, but the handle helps balance it out, and places your thumb in a good spot to access and use all the switches.

I will describe the user interface in detail below, but the control buttons are a little unusual to me. The handle has a Lock-out slide switch that you can slide back and forth (to prevent accidental activation), and two round electronic switches you can press: a smaller (though raised) Main switch right above the Lock-out slide switch, a slightly larger Auxiliary switch at the top of the handle.

When unlocked, the Main switch is used for turning the light On/Off and for primary mode level switching. The Auxiliary switch is used to activate/deactivate the built-in fan, switch between ECO and POWER mode sets, and perform some limited mode level switching, like jumping to Turbo (again, see my User Interface section). While easy enough to differentiate by feel, I would have expected the Main power switch to be larger, not just more raised. It also makes more sense to me to place it at one end of the series (i.e., not in the middle).

The Lock-out switch has a good firm sliding feel, locking into position at the two extremes of its traverse. The Main and Auxillary switches have a somewhat soft and slightly “squishy” feel – you need to press firmly to ensure you make contact. Note this makes multiple-clicking of the switches a bit different than other lights (i.e., firmness is what matters here, not speed).

The handle serves another important role – by carrying and using the flashlight by the handle, you don’t have to worry about accidentally burning yourself by picking it up too close to the head. That is a real concern to me, given how hot it got in my testing (which I will discuss further in the Runtimes section).

The is a green LED near the base of the handle on the head of the light that lights up when the light is in operation.

There is a standard tripod mount on the head on the opposite side from the handle. The light can tailstand stably thanks to the flat tailcap (which also serves as the dust/waterproof cover for the USB-C charging port). The tailcap threads are well lubed, and there is an o-ring in there for waterproofness. There are also instructions printed here, along with two charge status LEDs. Strangely, the integrated charger USB-C port is found among the screw threads. There is a recessed reset switch on the tail, in case you somehow over-discharge the battery pack and it won’t start charging (didn’t happen to me in my testing, but I appreciate the thoughtfulness). Scroll down for my charging experience.

Acebeam has emphasized to me the waterproofness of their design, and I tend to agree. Obviously, you would want to run it under water, but I agree appreciate the ability to swap out the fan if anything were to happen to it.

Another important physical safety feature is the removable silicone cover that sits around the head (where most of the heat will be produced). Like a silicone oven mitt, this will also help protect you if you try to grab the light while it is running. But it has another interesting safety feature – it changes colour to a light gray as it heats up:

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The above pics were taken a couple of minutes after I finished my beam distance measures. You can also see some condensation under the lens of the light, which was already starting to fade. I don’t know if the silicone colour shift was intentional or not, but it is a great way to warn you when you are about to pick up something hot. Again, please scroll down to my Runtimes section for a discussion of the heat and this silicone cover.

Of course, the other main safety (and runtime) feature is the small cooling fan integrated into the handle, running under the heatsink. This really reminds me of the early computer CPU fans, and serves the same basic function here. Note that I strongly recommend that you do not try to disable the thermally-mediated “Windy” modes in the user interface. The fan only comes on when it is needed (which is almost instantaneously in Turbo mode), and throttles down (and eventually turns off) automatically once the light has cooled sufficiently (which can take up to a minute after shutting down the light from Turbo). Again, see my Runtimes section for a discussion.

The battery pack body separates from the head. Screw threads are good quality, anodized, and well lubricated. There is a similarly-sized o-ring at this end. Thanks to the anodized threads, you can physically lock-out the light by a twist of the body/battery pack from the head. A spring in the head makes contact with the positive battery terminal.

The light lacks traditional knurling, but has plenty of ridge detail and cut-out finds (plus the handle and silicone head cover). Grip is not a concern in my handling.

Hard anodizing looks to be good quality (as is typical for Acebeam), and is more on the satin/matte side (which I personally prefer, not a fan of high gloss lights).

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My sample came with 12x Cree XHP70.3 HI emitters, each in their own well as part of a giant integrated reflector (moderately orange peel textured). The positioning of the wells is interesting, with a more elliptical shape to the outside ones. It looks like they are trying to harness the light for coordinated throw. But it is of course really going to be a massive flooder, given the wide head and generally shallow reflector setup.

The glass lens has a noticeable purple anti-reflective coating, as I noted in my E70 review. I am not a fan purple AR coatings, as they can lead to purple fringing on the periphery of the beam, but I didn’t really notice that here. I also haven’t noticed any significant tint shifting across output levels when in use, but check out my Emitter Measures below.

The silicone head cover has square crenelations on it, and the light can headstand reasonably well. However I STRONGLY recommend you do not attempt to run the light while headstanding, as I will explain below.

User Interface

As mentioned previously, the Main and Auxillary switches need be pressed firmly to use. This is particularly important for any of the multi-click operations described below (i.e., slow and firm presses are needed, too-rapid ones don’t work).

Before I get into describing the UI in detail, here is the flow-chart from the included user manual.

X75-Manual1

X75-Manual2

From OFF:

  • Main switch Press-and-Hold: Turns On in Ultra-low level
  • Main switch Single-click: Turns On in the last used memorized mode (but not Ultra-Low or Turbo)
  • Main switch Double-click: Turns On in Turbo mode (but timing is tricky, need to press firmly twice, and not too quickly)
  • Main switch Triple-click: Turns on in Strobe (again, slow and steady clicks)
  • Auxiliary switch Press-and-Hold (3 seconds): Activate/deactivate cooling fan (aka Wind mode)
  • Auxiliary switch Single-click: Nothing
  • Auxiliary switch 10 clicks: Switch between POWER mode group and ECO mode group (with their differing step-down timings on Turbo/Hi).

From ON:

  • Main switch Press-and-Hold: Change levels from Low to High (Ultra low and Turbo are not included in the main mode levels)
  • Main switch Single-click: Turns Off
  • Main switch Double-click: Jumps to Turbo
  • Main switch Triple-click: Jumps to Strobe
  • Auxiliary switch Press-and-Hold: Momentary Turbo
  • Auxiliary switch Single-click: Nothing

Shortcuts:

  • To Turbo: Double-click Main switch from On or Off
  • To Ultra Low: Press-and-Hold Main switch from Off
  • To Strobe: Triple-click Main switch from On or Off

Mode memory:

Yes. The light remembers the last main output levels used, and returns to it next time you turn on it On (with the exception of Ultra-Low and Turbo).

Low battery warning:

Yes, the LED indicator near the base of the handle blinks as the battery is running low.

Reviewer Comments:

Although the interface itself is not that complicated, getting use to it and the actual switch timings (and location) took some time. I kept trying to activate the light by the Auxillary switch instead of the Main switch. Once I remembered the right switch for Main, I then kept trying to use the Auxillary switch to change modes (Doh!). Since I don’t really want to turn off the fan or switch between the POWER and ECO mode groups (as I explain below), the Auxillary switch was really more of a complicating feature than a help, especially given its location.

I also don’t really understand who would want the lower step-down levels from Turbo/Hi that the ECO mode group offers over POWER mode. I could see people possibly preferring a separate set of level groupings, but I don’t know too many people who prefer to see a light step-down to an alternate set of even lower levels. And after all, you always have the option to run the light at a lower level if you are looking for more runtime.

I also don’t think it’s a good idea to give people the option to turn off the fan, from a safety or a long-term stability perspective. If you don’t like the fan noise, don’t run the light on Turbo.

Circuit Measures

Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM):

Ultra-Low:
X75-Ultra-Lo

Low:
X75-Lo

Turbo:
X75-Turbo

There is no sign of PWM or circuit noise at any level (some representative traces shown above). The light appears to be fully constant-current controlled. 🙂

Strobe:

X75-strobe

Strobe frequency is a reasonably fast 8.4 Hz, at the Turbo level (same as my Acebeam E70). Certainly annoying, but not as bad as some.

Charging:
20221019_150938

Fully discharged:

After ~10 mins of charging:

The Acebeam X75 battery pack (which is composed on 4×21700 cells in series), charges at ~20V and starts with a low charging current of ~0.2A when you first plug it in after a full discharge. This is a nice and gentle initial charging rate. After ~10 mins of charging time, you can see it was up to 3.1A, which is the very fast charging rate it uses over most of its charge cycle. Near the end of charging, it reverts back to the lower starting amperage, to avoid overcharging the cells. I didn’t specifically measure the charging time, but it seemed to take somewhere between 1.25 hours and 1.5 hours in my testing (as Acebeam indicates).

As an interesting note, when you plug the cable in, the charging circuit takes a couple of seconds to decide its charging rate. If the battery is only partially discharged, and it decides to go for the full 3.1A above, it doesn’t jump up to it – but slowly ramps up the current over about 5 secs or so. This is a very sensible and safe approach, and I’m glad to see Acebeam has taken such care with its charging circuit on this model. The charging port on the screw threads does seem a little odd, but I didn’t encounter any problems.

The battery pack can also serve as a power bank, to charge other USB devices. All you have to do is plug your cell phone or other device directly into the battery pack’s USB-C port. As you can see in the pic below, my Samsung Galaxy S21+ was able to charge at a pretty decent rate: ~2.05A at 9.35V (or just over 19W).

Standby / Parasitic Drain:

I measured the standby current as 0.22 mA.

Given the integrated 4x 21700 cells are arranged in series, and going by the quoted online 4250 mAh capacity, that would mean the cells would be fully drained in ~2.2 years.  This is not at all unreasonable, but I can see now why they have included the reset switch on the battery pack. If you stored this light fully connected but unused for several years, you may need to reset the low-voltage protection circuit in order to initiate a recharge cycle.

Note that storing the light locked or unlocked on the Lock-out handle switch made no difference to the standby current in my testing. It seems to draw the same power regardless.

You can physically lock out the battery pack from the head/handle of the light, thanks to the anodized screw threads in the head. I suggest you do indeed physically lock the light out this way to cut the standby drain. A single twist of the head will physically lock out this light, thanks to the anodized screw threads.

Emitter Measures

This section is a new feature of my reviews, where I directly measure key emitter characteristics in terms of colour temperature, tint, and colour rendition. Please see my Emitter Measures page to learn more about what these terms mean, and how I am measuring them.

As explained on that page, since I am using an inexpensive uncalibrated device, you can only make relative comparisons across my reviews (i.e., don’t take these numbers as absolutely accurate values, but as relatively consistent across lights in my testing).

The key measures above are the colour temperature of ~5840K, and the moderately positive tint shift (+0.0115 Duv) to yellow-green at this temperature.

For CRI (Ra), I measured a combined score of 68.

These values are very consistent with cool white XHP70.3 emitters, and match my visual experience of this light.

Beamshots

All outdoor beamshots are taken on my Canon PowerShot S5 IS at f/2.7, 0.5 secs exposure, ISO 400, daylight white balance. The bend in the road is approximately 40 meters (~45 yards) from the camera. Learn more about my outdoor beamshots here (scroll down for the floody light position used in this review).

Note that the camera settings were selected to best show-off the typical max output ranges of 1×21700 lights. So the X75 is going to seem a bit washed out in comparison!

Click on any thumbnail image below to open a full size image in a new window. You can then easily compare beams by switching between tabs.



For comparison purposes, the Imalent MS03 produces ~13,000 lumens on Turbo at activation, dropping downs to ~11,000 lumens at 30 secs. Beam intensity is about 22,000cd (or ~18,000cd / 265m at 30 secs) on Turbo. High is ~8,000 lumens.

The V54-modified MM15 above is dome-on, and at 30 secs is ~7,400 lumens and 27,500cd beam intensity (331m beam distance).

Testing Results

My summary tables are generally reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. In addition to the links above, please see my output measures page for more background.

All my output numbers are based on my home-made lightbox setup. As explained on that methodology page, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values to estimated lumens. My Peak Intensity/Beam Distance are directly measured with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter.

X75 Testing Results

ModeSpec LumensEstimated Lumens @0secEstimated Lumens @30 secsBeam Intensity @0secBeam Intensity @30secsBeam Distance @30secsPWM/Strobe FreqNoise FreqCharging Current <3VCharging Current >3VParasitic DrainWeight w/o BatteryWeight with Battery
Ultralow900750750----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Low2,0001,9501,900----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Mid15,000-9004,7504,700----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Mid210,000-9009,1009,500----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Hi21,000-12,000-90022,00021,000----No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Turbo67,000-17,00070,50064,500338,000 cd295,000 cd1086 m-No0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g
Strobe55,000-20,000-----8.4 HzNo0.18 A3.1A0.22 mA-1190 g

Using my ceiling bounce measures for output (as my lightbox couldn’t handle the size and heat), I actually come in pretty close to the rated specs. Mind you, I know my output measures appear to be a bit inflated compared to others, but they are at least internally consistent across my reviews.

In terms of beam distance though, my calibrated lightmeter used at ANSI FL-1 distance (10m, and calculated back) clearly doesn’t match the stated intensity (although it isn’t bad to be reaching >1 km beam distance at 30 secs).

To see full testing results for all modern lights in my testing, check out my Database page.

Runtimes

As always, my runtimes are done under a small cooling fan, for safety and consistency. To learn more about how to interpret runtime graphs, see my runtimes methodology page.

Note that I had to modify my testing setup for this light, as it too big to fit in my lightbox.

For the Lo and Mid runs, I simply placed the light up against the opening to my lightbox, and applied a correction factor for the reduced output readings (based on a calibration I developed relative to my ceiling bounce measures). For Turbo and Hi, I had to come up with another solution as the Turbo mode caused the adhesive tape that holds the cut-out flap on my milk carton lighbox to start to melt and burn within seconds of the run (!!!).

Yes, that’s right – despite an air-gap between the lens and the lightbox (due to the silicone cover), the intensity of the heat coming out the front was able to quickly ignite the generic-brand adhesive tape I used on the lightbox. I will come back to the heat issue in a bit.

So instead, I downloaded once of those free light meter apps for your cell phone. I used Light Meter – Lux Meter by Coolexp, v.1.5, from the Google Play store for Android, to use on my Samsung Galaxy S21+. I then calibrated the phone and app against my NIST-certified lux light meter, and used it to log runtimes. For safety, I ran the light tailstanding aimed at the ceiling of my cool and empty garage in the evening, with the cell phone lying beside the light facing the ceiling (for ceiling bounce measures). I then correlated the garage bounce to my usual ceiling bounce location, to get the official lumen estimates.

Quite a process, but it worked surprisingly well in the end. Now, let’s see how the runtimes went. Note that for all runtimes below, I left the light in “POWER mode with Wind”.

X75-Max
X75-Mid

As you can see above, the X75 is well regulated at all levels tested. It also seems extremely efficient, as the output/runtime performance looks to be at least ~4.5 times that of the best 1×21700 lights (despite the lower 4250 mAh rated capacity of the cells here). It is of course hard to compare exactly, as I did needed to do some calibrations/correlations for the output measures. And of course, the 4×21700 cells here are running the 12x emitters at lower drive levels to produce the same overall output, which is always more efficient. But any way you look it, this is clearly a very efficient and well regulated circuit!

To better show the thermal step-down feature on Turbo and Hi, here are those output runtimes expanded to show the first eight minutes, and then the first 30 secs. Again, on POWER mode with Wind:

X75-Max-8min
X75-Max-30sec

As you can see, the light rapidly ramps up to Turbo/Hi output over ~5 secs or so (which is interesting – it doesn’t just jump to the max brightness). This is another sign that the circuit is “gentle” on the battery pack on Turbo/Hi at startup, just as it was on charging. The integrated cooling fan turns on almost immediately on Turbo.

The output ramps down slowly on Turbo, until just after one minute, at which point it ramps down more quickly over a period of 30 secs or so, to the regulated High level. This is quite reasonable, given how hard the light is driven for the first minute. It also gets quite warm by the point it starts to ramp down.

In terms of heat, that is actually rather hard to measure. I did a second run using an infrared thermometer gun that has an app-based data-logging feature. For this run, I aimed it at an area just above the tripod mount at the base of the head. Here is how it looks overlayed on the corresponding Turbo runtime (although they were in fact two separate runs, as I needed to use my one cell phone to datalog from the two respective apps):

X75-Max-Temp

It’s interesting that the temperature continues to rise even as the light is in the process of ramping down to the High level. But I suspect this is due to a time lag for when the aluminum body reaches its maximum temperature – see below for a further discussion.

Note the integrated fan is going this whole time, and at full-blast speeds for the first couple of minutes. Once the temperature started to come down, I noticed the pitch (and thus speed) of the fan dropped down several times during the remaining run. I didn’t record or quantify this, but the most pronounced change in pitch occurred at the point near the end of the run above, where the temperature reading increased slightly as a result.

I didn’t time exactly how long the fan lasts after you turn off the light. At the end of the run above, it wasn’t very long. But the fan can continue to run for up to ~2 mins after the you turn the light off if you do so at the point of max heat (i.e., right when it steps down to Hi).

SAFETY WARNING:

Please note that the actual max temperature of the light is much hotter than it appears in the runtime above.

Again, I had my infrared thermometer gun pointed at the aluminum body of the light for the heat trace above, for convenience and safety (i.e., staring at the output of the light is not good for your eyes!). How hot does it actually get coming out the front of the light? I experimented with pointing the thermal gun at different angles to the lens at the front of the light, and found the maximum heat reading occurred when I placed the gun directly in front of the light. At ~1 min 10 secs into another run (i.e., the inflection point where the light begins its steeper ramping down to Hi), I clocked 198°C (388°F). This is as hot as the gun ever measured, as temperature began to drop down from this point. This makes sense, as I would expect the maximum heat to occur just before the light starts its explicit ramp-down stage.

I understand now why the generic Scotch tape on my lightbox started to burn – the brand-name stuff has a melting temperature of 175°C (347°F). Indeed, during this test, if I brought my infrared thermometer gun in too close to the lens (i.e., one inch away), smoke started to burn off the plastic end piece of the gun (!). You therefore have to be EXTREMELY careful not to let anything come into even near-contact with the lens of the light when operating in Turbo mode – or you risk igniting flammable materials, and/or seriously burning yourself.

Please do not even consider removing the silicone cover around the head – it is an absolute minimum safety requirement in my view. In fact, I recommend you slide it up more towards the opening of the light, to provide event better protection. It will hold snugly in couple of positions, for example:

Finally, I find the drain rate on Turbo a bit heavy for 4x 21700 cells. If you plan to run this light routinely at this level, I suggest you pick up the extended 8x 21700 battery pack that Acebeam sells (the much higher capacity/number of cells means the power required on Turbo is less stressful on each individual cell). This will of course make the light longer and heavier though.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
Incredibly high output with excellent throw (although not quite as high as rated).The light gets VERY hot on Turbo mode very quickly, risking potential burns or igniting flammable materials. Avoid any near-contact with the lens in Turbo operation (see analysis above).
Excellent regulation and output/runtime efficiency, in all modes.The light on Turbo draws power at a very high rate initially - I recommend you purchase the optional extended 8-cell pack if you plan to run Turbo frequently.
Good thermal regulation and step-down performance, with a well-implemented integrated cooling fan.The electronic switch placement, feel and interface is a little unusual, and takes some getting used to.
Very good physical build quality, comfortable to handle and use, even in Turbo mode.
Thoughtful heat safety management, with silicone head cover and handle for carry.
Fast USB-C charging of the battery pack, which can also serve as a power bank for other devices.

A neutral comment is the fan is moderately noisy when Turbo is first activated, and quiets down somewhat as as the light steps-down. You can disable the fan, but I do not recommend this. It is better to just get used to the noise – or simply not use Turbo.

Overall Rating

Preliminary Conclusions

I debated knocking off half a star for some of the things that gave me pause on this light. But given how great the overall feature set is, as well as the physical build and regulated circuit and battery performance, I think 5 stars is warranted. That said, there are a couple of things that concern me, so let’s get those out of the way first.

I will start with the minor one – the user interface (specifically, the Auxillary switch). I really don’t find this switch too useful for the things it is primarily programmed to do (i.e., switching to ECO mode, or turning off the fan – neither of which I wish to do). And I found its presence distracting in use, so close the Main switch. Coupled with having to get the hang of an unusual timing issue for multiple clicks of either switch (i.e., both are a bit squishy), I think this could use a little tweaking.

My main concern is not with the light per se, but just how much heat comes out the front end of this thing on Turbo. The silicone head cover is a brilliant idea, but one that I think should have been extended even further forward. Please take care not to ignite anything on fire with this light – I think those in the UK or Australia would be fully justified in call this light a “torch”!

I know the marquee draw for this light is its raw max output – and correspondingly clever cooling design with the integrated yet replaceable fan. But here’s the thing; even if you completely discount the Turbo mode, I think this light is a five star light for all that it has a lot to offer in its other modes. Let’s not forget just how incredibly bright the High mode’s ~21,000 lumens are, and how versatile it is to go all the way down to ~750 regulated lumens on its lowest setting. The excellent regulation and current-controlled efficiency are just superb.

The physical build and ergonomics of the light are top notch too. It just feels like a really solid piece of kit, with careful attention to detail. It’s a pleasure to use with its integrated handle – and is probably the first light I’ve preferred carrying that way. The silicone head cover is just ingenious, including its colour shift to indicate the light is hot. I haven’t handled other modern super-high output lights, but I can’t recommend much to improve on the physical build here. I am super impressed to see the spare (and user-swappable) cooling fan included here. That is a thoughtful design that I hope other makers consider it too in their designs.

The charging feature also worked great in my testing, and the 3A charging really speeds things up (bonus to be able to use the battery pack as power bank too). Weird to see the USB-C port in the middle of the screw threads, but it didn’t cause any issues for me.

If you are in the market for this sort of monster high-output light (and understand the risks of max output), I am happy to recommend this model.

Acknowledgement

The X75 was provided for review by Acebeam. All opinions are my own however, and the light received the same rigourous and objective testing as all other lights that I have reviewed. At the time of review, this light retails for ~$420 USD (~$570 CDN).

Acebeam is making available a discount code for readers of my reviews. If you purchase the light from the Acebeam.com website, you can use the code ” selfbuilt ” (without the quotation marks) for 10% off.

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